A 


H| 


DUKE 

UNIVERSITY 

LIBRARY 


Treasure %oom 


U.   N.    C.    Library 


s~> 


THE 

STRANGER  IN  FRANCE 


OR, 


A  TOUR 


FROM 


DEVONSHIRE    TO   IPARIS. 


Mr  John  Carr,  Esq* 


FIRS?  PUBLISHED  IN  LONDON,  1803* 


BRATTLEBORO : 

'PRINTED  FOR  ISAIAH  *f  HOMAS,  JUN.  WORCESTER* 


William  Fessenden...spxmtQXt 

180& 


PREFACE. 


THE  little  tour  which  gave  birth  to  the  following 
remarks,  was  taken  immediately  after  the  exchange  of 
die  ratifications  of  a  peace,  neeefTary,  but  not  inglo- 
rious to  my  country,  after  a  conteft  unexampled  in  its 
caufe,  calamity,  extenfion,  vicifiltudes  and  glory  ;  a- 
midft  a  people  who,  under  the  influence  of  a  political 
change,  hitherto  unparalleled,  were  to  be  approached 
as  an  order  of  beings,  exhibiting  a  moral  and  political 
form  before  but  little  known  to  themfelves  and  to  the 
world,  in  the -abrupt  removal  of  habits  and  fentiments 
which  had  filently  and  uninterruptedly  taken  deep 
root  in  the  foil  of  ages. 

During  a  feparation  of  ten  years,  we  have  received 
very  little  account  of  this  extraordinary  people,  which 
could  be  relied  upon.  Diffimiiar  fenfations,  excited 
by  their  principles  and  proceedings,  ever  partially  and 
irregularly  known,  have  depicted  unaccording  repre- 
fentations  of  them,  and,  in  the  fequel,  have  exhibi* 
A  ted  rather  a  high  colored,  fanciful  delineation,  than  a 
plain  and  faithful  refemblance  of  the  original.  Many 
are  the  perfons  who  have  been  thus  milled. 

Thefe  fugitives  fketches,  in  which  an  attempt  is 

made  to  delineate,  juft  as  they  occurred,  thofe  fcenes 

which  to  my  mind  at  leafty  were  new  and  interefting, 

,were  originally  penned  for  the  private  perufal  of  thofe 

-   jwhomJ  efteem  j  and  by  their  perfuafion  they  are  now 


IV  PREFACE. 

offered  to  the  public  eye.  Amongft  them  I  muft  be 
permitted  to  indulge  in  the  pride  and  pleafure  of  enu- 
merating William  Hayley,  Efq.  a  name  familiar  and 
dear  to  every  elegant  and  polifhed  mind.  Enlight- 
ened by  his  emendations,  and  fupported  by  the  cher- 
ishing fpirit  of  his  approval,  I  approach,  with  a  more 
fubdued  apprehenfion,  the  tribunal  of  public  opinion  ; 
and  to  my  friends  I  dedicate  this  humble  refult  of  a 
fhort  relaxation  from  the  duties  of  an  anxious  and  la- 
borious profeihon.  If,  by  fubmitting  to  their  wifhes, 
I  have  erred,  I  have  only  to  offer,  that  it  is  my  firft, 

and  fhall  be  my  laft  offence. 

JOHN  CARR. 

Ttfnes,  Aagujt)  1802. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  L 


Torr  Abbey. — Cap  of  Liberty. — Anecdote  of  EngltJhFre-- 

judice. Fire  Ships. — Southampton  River. — Nettty 

Abbey.  page  9 

*  CHAP.  II. 

French  Emigrants. — Scene  on  the  Quay  of  Southampton. 
-*-Sailfor  Havre.-^-Agtd  French  Priefl. — Their  re- 
fpeclable  Conducl  in  England. — Their  Gratitude. — 
Make  the  Port  of  Havre. — Panic  of.jl:    Immigrants. 

Landing  defcribed.- — Hotel  de  la  Paix. — Breakfajl 

Knife. — Municipality.  p  14 

CHAP.  III. 

Pajfports  procured. — Coins. — Town  of  Havre. — Carts. 
— Citoyen. — Honfeur. — Deferters. — Prefeclde  Mar- 
ine,— Ville  de  Sandwich. — French  Farmers. — Sir 
Sidney  Smith. — Catherine  de  Medicis  .—Light  Houfes. 
Rafts.  ,.,   p  30 

CHAP.  IV. 

Cheap  travelling  to  Paris. — Diligences. — French  JPof 

tillions. Spanifh    Poflillions. — Norman   Hotffs. — 

Bolbec. — Natives  of  Caux. — Ivetot. — Return  of  Re- 
ligion.— Santerre.- — Jacobin  .—The  Miiflard  Pot.-— 
National  Property.  p  41 

CHAP.  V. 

^A  Female  French  fib. — Military  and  Civil  Proceffion.— 

Madame  G. — The   Review. Mons.    V   Abbe. — 

Bridge  of  Boats. — The  Quay. — Exchange. — Theatre. 
. — Rouen. — Cathedral. — St.  Ouens. — Prince  of  JVal- 

fgdec. — Maid  of  Orleans,  p  5 1 

CHAP  VL 

Fir/l  ConfuVs  Advertifement, — Something  ridiculous.-^ 
&ggs.-~~Qriminal  Military  Tribunal, — French-  Ft* 
fr.2   ' 


yi  contents; 

male  Confidence. — Town  Houfe. — Convent  ofjefuits. 
— Guillotine.— Governor  W .  i  p  62 

CHAP.  VII. 

Filial  Piety' — 5/.  Catharine's  Mount. — Madame  Phil- 
lope. — General  Ruffin's  Trumpet. — Generofity. — Love 
Infeclious. — Mafcns  and  Gardeners*  p  75 

CHAP.  VIII. 

Early  Dinner. — Mante.- — Frofil.- — Duke  de  Sully. — 
Approach  the  Capital. — Norman  Barrier. — Paris. — 
Hotel  de  Rouen. — Palais  Royal.  p  86 

CHAP.  IX. 

French  Reception. — Voltaire. — Reflaiiraieur. — Confular 
Guard. — Muftc. — Venetian  Horfes. — Gates  of  the 
Palace. — Gardens  of  the  Thuilleries. — Statues — The 
faithful  Vase. — The  Sabine  Piclure. — Monfieur  Per- 
regaux,— Marquis  de  Chatelet.— -Madame  Perregaux. 
Beaux  and  Belles  of  Paris.  p  93 

CHAP.  X. 

Large  Dogs. — A  Plan  for  becoming  quickly  acquainted 
with  Paris. — Pantheon.— Tombs  of  Voltaire  andRouf- 
feau. — Politenefs  of  an  Emigrant. — The  Beauty  of 
France. — Beauty  evanefcent. — Place  de  Caroufel.— 
Infernal  Machine. — Fauche.— Seine .— Wafilierwomen. 
Fifbiuemen. — Baths.  p  105 

CHAP.  XI. 

David. — Place  de  la  Concorde. — L'Eglife  de  Madeleine. 

— Print-fhops. — Notre  Dame. — Mufeum   or  Palace 

ef   Arts. — Hall  of  Statues. — Laocoon. — Belvidere 

Apollo. — Socrates.  p  116 

CHAP.  XII. 

Bonaparte. — Artillery. Mr.    Pitt. — Newfpapers. — 

Archbijhop  of  Paris. — Confular  Colours. — Religion. 
—Confular  Converfton.—- Madame  Bonaparte.— ~ 
Confular  Modefty. — SeparateBeds. — A  Country  fcene. 
Connubial  Affection. — Female  Braver.y.  p  130. 

CHAP.  XIII. 

Breakfaf.—TVarmth  of  French  Expreffion. — Rujlic 
Eloquence. — Curious  Caufe  ajftgnedfor  the  late  extra^ 


CONTENTS.  VU 

ordinary  Froft.-~~  Madame  R-         — Paul  I. — Tivoli. 
Frefcati.  p  146, 

CHAP.  XIV. 
fonvent  of  Blue  nuns.-—Duchejfe  de  Biron.-*>The  Bloody 
)<Ley. — Courts  of  Juflice. — Public  Library. — Gob- 
elines. — Mifs  Linwood. — Garden  of  Plants.— French 
Accommodations. — Boot  Cleaners. — Cat  and  Dog 
Shearers. — Monjieur  S and  Family.         p  159 

CHAP.  XV. 

Civility  of  a  Sentinel. — TheHalloftheLegiflativeAf- 

fembly* — Briti/h  Houfe  of  Vommons. — Captain  Ber* 

geret. — The  Temple.— ~Sir    Sidney  Smith's    Efcape. 

Colonel  Phillipeaux.  p  169 

CHAP.  XVI. 

A  fajhionable  Poem. — Frere  Richart. — Religion. — • 
Hotel  des  Inval'ides. — HallofViclory. — Enemies1  Col- 
ors.-.— Sulky  Appearance  of  an  Englifh  Jack  and  En* 
Jign. — Indecorum. — The  aged  Captain. — Military 
School. — Champ  de  Mars. — Ihe  Garden  of  Mouf- 
feaux.  p  181 

CHAP.  XVII. 
Curious  Method  of  raifmg  Hay. — Lucien  Bonaparte's 
Hotel. — Opera. — Confular    Box. — Madame   Bona- 
parte's Box. — Feydeau  Theatre. — Belle  Vue. — Ver- 
sailles.— The  Palace  of  the  Petit  Triannon. — The 
Grounds.  p  195 

CHAP.  XVIII. 
Bonaparte's  takftts  in  Finance. — Garrick  and  the  Mad- 
man.— Palace  of  the  Confervative  Senate. — Procefs 
of  transferring  Oil  Paintings  from  Wood  to  Canvas. 
— The  Dinner  Knife. — Commodities. — Hall  of  the 
National  Convention.— -The  Minifler  Talleyrand's 
Levee.  p  209 

CHAP.  XIX. 
The  College  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb. — Abbe  Sicard. — . 

Bagatelle. —  Police. Grand   National  Library — . 

*  Bonaparte's  Review, — Tambour  Major  of  the-  Confu- 
far  Regiment* — Rtfloraiion  of  Artillery  Colors,  p  223 


Wli  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  XX. 

Abbe  Sieyes. — Confular  Preceffwn  to  the  Council  Cham~ 
ber.~10th  of  Aug.  1792. — Celerity  o/Mons.  Fauche's 
Police  Information. — The  two  Lovers. — Cabinet  of 
Mons.  le  Grand — Self -prefer  ib  in  g  Phyfcian. — Bufl 
ef  Robefpierre. — His  Lodgings. — Corn  Hall. — M u- 
feum  of  French  Monuments. — Revolutionary  AgenU . 
Lovers  of  Married  Women.  p  237 

CHAP.  XXI. 

Piclurefque  and  Mechanical  Theatre. — Filtrating  and 

•     purifying  Vafes. — Engli/h,facobins.-^-A  Farewell.— 

Mejfagerie.- — Mai  Maifon. — Fortft    of  Evreux.— 

Lower  Normandy Caen. — Hon.   T.  Erfkine. — A 

Ball. — The  Keeper  of  the  Sacbri/ly  of  Notre  Dame. — 
The  two  blind  Beggars. — Ennui.— St.  Lo. — Cher- 
bourg.— England..  p  254 

GENERAL.  REM  ARKS  2*3^ 


The 
STRANGER   IN   FRANCE. 

CHAPTER  £ 

Torr  Abbey. — Cap  of  Liberty. — Anecdote  of  Englijh 
Prejudice. — Fire  Ships. — Southampton  River. — 
Netley  Abbey. 

IT  was  a  circumftance,  which  will  be  memorable 
with  me,  as  long  as  I  live,  and  pleafant  to  my  feelings, 
as  often  as  I  recur  to  it,  that  part  of  my  intended  ex- 
curfiqa  to  the  Continent  was  performed  in  the  laffc 
fhip  of  war,  which,  after  the  formal  confirmations  of 
the  peace,  remained,  of  that  vaft  naval  armament,, 
which,  from  the  heights  of  Torbay,  for  fo  many  years, 
prefented  to  the  aflonifhed  and  admiring  eye,  a 
fpectacle  at  once  of  pitturefque  beauty,  and  national 
glory.  It  was  the  laft  attendant  in  the  train  of  retir-. 
ing  war. 

Under  the  charming  roof  of  Torr  Abbey,  the  resi- 
dence of  George  Cary,  Efq.  I  palled  a  few  days,  un- 
til the  Megsera  was  ready  to  fail  for  Portsmouth,  to 
be  paid  off,  the  commander  of  which,  captain  New- 
houfe,  very  politely  offered  to  convey  my  companion, 
captain  W.  Cary,  and  myfelf,  to  that  port. 

In  this  beautiful  fpot,  the  gallant  heroes  of  our  na- 
vy have  often  found  the  fever e  and  perilous  duties  of 
the  boifterous  element  alleviated  by  attentions,  which 
in  their  fplendid  and  cordial  difplay,  united  an  ele- 
gant tafte  to  a  noble  fpirit  of  hofpitality. 


*0  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.  L 

In  the  Harleian  Tra&s  there  is  a  fliort,  but  rather 
curious  account  preferved  of  the  fenfation  produced 
at  die  Abbey  on  the  5th  of  November,  1688,  after 
the  prince  of  Orange  had  entered  the  bay  with  his  fleet 
©n  their  pafTage  to  Brixham,  where  he  landed : 

*  The  princ4  commanded  captain  M—  to  fearch* 
*  the  lady  Car/s  houfe,  at  Torr  Abbey,  for  arms  and 
« horfes.  The  lady  entertained  them  civilly,  faid 
«  her  hufband  was  gone  to  Plymouth  :  they  brought 
«  from  thence  fome  horfes,  and  a  few  arms,  but  gave 
u  no  farther  difturbance  to  the  lady  or  her  houfe." 

Throughout  this  embarrafiing  interview,  the  lady 
Cary  appears  to  have  conducted  herfelf  with  great 
temper,  dignity  and  refolution,  whilft,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  chaplain  of  that  day,  whofe  opinions  were 
not  very  favorable  to  the  revolution,  unlike  his  pref- 
ent  amiable  and  enlightened  fucceffbr,*  left  the  lady 
in  the  mid  ft  of  her  perplexities,  and  fled. 

In  the  Abbey,  X  was  much  pleafed  with  an  intereft- 
ing,  though  not  very  ornamental  trophy  of  the  glori- 
ous victory  of  Aboukir.  The  truckle  heads  of  the 
maftsofthe  Aquilon,  a  French  fhip  of  the  line,, 
which  ftruckto  the  brave  captain  Louis,  in  that  ever 
memorable  battle,  were  covered  with  the  bonnet 
rouge  ;  one  of  thefe  caps  of  liberty,  furmounted  with 
the  Britifh  flag,  has  been  committed  to  the  care  of 
the  family,  by  that  heroic  commander,  and  now  con- 
futes a  temporary  ornament  of  their  dining  room. 

*  Rev.   John  Halford. 


CHAP.  I.]  IN   FRANCE.  II 

Here  we  Paid  in  provifion  for  our  little  voyage, 
without,  however,  feeling  the  fame  apprehenfion, 
which  agitated  the  mind  of  a  fair  damfel,  in  the  fer- 
vice  of  a  lady  of  rank  who  formerly  refided  in  my 
neighborhood,  who,  preparing  to  attend  her  miftrefs 
to  the  Continent,  and  having  heard  from  the  jolly  hif- 
torians  of  the  kitchen,  that  the  food  in  France  was 
chiefly  fupplied  by  the  croaking  inhabitants  of  thftk. 
green  and  {landing  pool,  contrived,  very  carefully,  t<£p 
carry  over  a  piece  of  home-bred  pork,  concealed  in 
her  workbag. 

Early  in  the  morning  after  we  fet  fail,  we  pafled 
through  the  Needles,  which  faved  us  a  very  coniider- 
able  circuitous  fail  round  the  fouthern  fide  of  the  Ifle 
of  Wight,  a  pafTage  which  the  late  admiral  Macbride 
firft  fuccefsfully  attempted,  for  veffels  of  war,  in  a  fhip 
of  the  line. 

The  vefTel,  in  which  we  failed,  was  a  firefhip  ;  a 
coftty  inftrument  of  deftruclion,  which  has  never 
been  applied  during  the  recent  war,  and  only  once, 
and  that  unfuccefsfully,  during  the  preceding  one. 
"We  had  feveral  of  them  in  commiffion,  although  they 
are  confeffedly  of  little  utility  in  thefe  times,  and  from 
the  immenfe  ftores  of  combuftibles  with  which  they 
are  charged,  threaten  only  peril  to  the  commander 
and  his  crew. 

We  foon  after  dropped  anchor,  and  proceeded  to 
Portfmouth,  in  fearchof  a  packet  for  Havre-de- Grace. 
In  the  ftreet,  our  trunks  were  feized  by  the  cuftorn- 
houfe  officers,  whilft  conveying  to  the  inn,  but  after 


It  THE  STRINGER  [CHAP.  I» 

preferring  our  keys,  and  requefting  immediate  fearch 
and  reftoration,  they  were  returned  to  us  without 
further  annoyance.  Finding  that  the  matters  of  the 
French  packets  were  undetermined  when  they  fhould 
fail,  we  refolved  upon  immediately  leaving  this  cele- 
brated feaport,  and  proceeding  by  water  to  South- 
ampton, diftant  about  twenty- four  miles  ;  where,  af- 
ter a  very  unpleafant  paiTage,  from  its  blowing  with 
confiderable  violence  foon  after  we  left  Portfmouth, 
we  arrived  in  a  little  wherry,  about  twelve  o'clock  at 
night,  at  the  Vine  inn,  which  is  very  conveniently 
fituated  for  paffengers  by  the  packets. 

It  will  not  be  required  of  me,  to  attempt  a  minute 
description  of  the  Southampton  river,  at  a  time  when 
I  expected,  with  fome  reafon,  as  I  afterwards  Under- 
stood, to  fink  to  the  bottom  of  it.  An  obfervation 
very  natural  to  perfons  in  our  Situation  occurred  to  me 
all  the  way,  viz.  that  the  fhores  feemed  to  be  too  far 
diftant  from  each  other,  and  that  had  there  been  left 
water,  the  fcenery  would  have  been  more  delightful  j  \ 
an  obfervation  which  however,  the  next  day  confirm* 
ed,  when  it  prefented  the  fafe  and  tranquil  appear- 
ance of  a  mirror. 

Finding  that  the  packet  for  France  was  not  likely 
to  fail  immediately,  we  hired  a  boat,  and  proceeded 
down  the  river,  to  view  the  beautiful  ruins  of  Netley 
Abbey,  in  the  great  court  of  which  we  dined,  under 
the  fhade  of  aged  linies,  and  amidft  the  flappings  of 
its  feathered  and  reftlefs  tenantry* 


OHAP.  L]  IK   FRANCE  13 

As  I  sob  no  great  admirer  of  tedious  details, 1  fivall 
not  attempt  an  antiquarian  hiftory  of  this  delightful 
ipot.  I  fhall  leave  it  to  more  circumftantial  travellers, 
to  enumerate .  the  genealogies  cfthe  worthies  who 
occupied  it  at  various seras,  and  to  relate,  like  a  mon- 
umental entablature,  when,  where,  and  how  they  liv- 
ed and  died  j  it  will  be  fufficient  to  cbferve,  that  the 
iite  of  this  romantic  abode  was  granted  by  Henry 
VIII.  in  1757,  to  a  Sir  "William  Paulet,  and  that  after 
having  had  many  merry  monks  for  its  maffers,  who> 
no  doubt,  performed  their  matutinse  laudes  and  noc- 
turne vigilise  with  devout  -exactnefs  *,  that  it  is  at 
length  in  the  poiTeiHon  of  Mr.  Dance,  who  has  a  ve- 
ry fine  and  piclurefque  eftate  on  that  iide  of  the  riv- 
er, of  which  thefe  elegant  ruins  conftitute  the  chief 
ornament.  The  church  ftill  exhibits  a  beautiful  fpec- 
imen  of  gothic  architecture,  but  its  tottering  remain*, 
will  rapidly  mare  the  fate  of  the  neighbouring  pile-, 
which  time  has  proftrated  on  the  earth,  and  covered 
with  his  thickeft  fhade  of  ivy. 

Our  watermen  gave  us  a  curious  defcription  of  this 
place,  and  amufed  us  not  a  little  with  their  ridiculous 
anacronifrns. 

"  I  tell  you  what/'  faid  one  of  them,  contradicting 
(i  the  other,  «  you  are  in  the  wrong,  Bob,  indeed 
"  you  are  wrong,  don't  mifleadthem  gentlemen;  that 
"there  Abbey  is  in  the  true  Roman  %le,' and  was 

<c  built  by  a  man  they  call  — ,   but  that's   neither 

w  i. ere  nor  there,  I  forget  the  name,  however,  it's  a 


14.  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.  II. 

"  fine  place,  and  univerfally  allowed  to  be  very  old. 
«  I  frequently  rows  gentlefolks  there,  and  picks  up  a 
*  great  deal  about  it." 

On  our  return  the  tide  was  at  its  height,  the  flm 
was  fetting  in  great  glory,  the  iky  and  water  fecm- 
ed  blended  in  each  other,  the  fame  red  rich  tint 
reigned  throughout,  the  veffels  at  anchor  appeared 
fufpended  in  the  air,  the  fpires  of  the  churches  were  . 
tipped  with  the  golden  ray  ;  a  fcene  of  more  beauty, 
ridmefs,  and  tranquillity  I  never  beheld. 

CHAPTER  H. 

French  Emigrants.— Scene  on  the  Quay  cf  Southampton. 
—Zailfor  Havre.— Aged  Frmch  Prief.— Their  re- 
fpeBable  CorJuel  In  England.— Thar  Gratitude— 
Make  the  Port  of  Havre.— Panic  of  the  Emigrants. 
—Landing  defcribed.— Hotel  de  la  Paix.—Breakfjl 
Knife. — M u  n  icipcliij . 

DURING  the  whole  of  the  fecond  day  after  our 
arrival,  the  town  of  Southampton  was  in  a  buflle,  oc- 
cafioned  by  the  flocking  in  of  a  great  number  oft 
French  emigrants,  who  were  returning  to  then-  own 
country,  in  conference  of  a  mild  decree,  which  had 
been  paffed  in  their  favor.  The.  (bene  was  truly  UW 
terefting,andthe  fenthnent  which  it  exceed,  ae- 
lightful  tc  the  heart. 


CHAP.  II.]  IN    FRANCE.  15 

A  resectable  cure,  who  dined  in  the  fenie  room 
with  us  at  our  inn,  was  obferved  to  eat  very  little  \  up- 
on being  preffed  to  enlarge  his  meal,  this  amiable 
"  man  faid,  with  tears  Parting  in  his  eyes,  «  Alas  !  I 
"  have  no  appetite,  y  a  very  fhort  time  will  bring  me 
"  amongft  the  fcenes  of  my  nativity,  my  youth,  and 
"  my  happinefs,  from  which  a  rcmorfelefs  revolution 
"  has  parted  me  for  thefe  ten  long  years  ;  I  fiiall  aflc 
"  for  thofe  who  are  dear  to  me,  and  find  them  forev- 
"  er  gone.  Thofe  who  are  left  will  fill  my  mind  with 
"the  mod  afflicting  defcription  \  no,  no,  I  cannot 
•*  eat,  my  good  SI:." 

About  noon,  they  had  deposited  their  baggage  up- 
on the  quay,  which  formed  a  pile  of  aged  portman- 
teaus, and  battered  trunks.  Parties  remained  to  pro- 
tect them,  previous  to  their  embarkation.  The  fun 
was  intensely  hot,  they  were  feared  under  the  fhade 
of  old  umbrellas  which  looked  as  if  they  had  been 
the  companions  of  their  baniihment. 

Their  countenances  appeared  fbrongly  marked  with 
the  pious  character  cf  resignation,  over  which  were 
to  be  feen  a  fweetnefs,  and  corrected  .animation, 
which  feemed  to  depict  at  once  the  foui's  delight,  of 
returning  to  its  native  home,  planted  wherever  it 
may  be,  and  the  regret  of  leaving  a  nation,  which,  in 
the  hour  of  flight  and  mifery,  had  nobly  enrolled 
'  them  in  the  lift  of  her  own  children,  and  had  cover- 
ed them  with  protection. 


I'j  THJJ    ST*J*NGER  [CH^.  It 

tie  eternal  honor  oftlxefe  unhappy,  bat  excel- 
lent people,  be  it  fad,  thai  they  have;  proved  the..  - 
fshes  worthy  cf  being  received,  in  inch,  a  fan£hiary. 
Our  country   has  enjoyed  the  beneSt  o£  their  i 
blemiihed  mcrak,  I  unaf- 

"ngmanr:.  •  dsftiny  has 

a,  they  have  induftrkn 
burden    of    their  fupport  by   d  the  knowl- 

edge of  a  language,  which  good  fenfe,  and  common 
uatcreft,  fhould  long  Snc  e  have  :  &  as  a  valua- 

ble branch  of  educatioij. 

To  thofe  of  my  friends,  who  exercife  the  facred 
functions  of  religion,  as  eftabliihed  in  this  country, 
I  need  not  offer  an  apology,  for   paying  an  humble 
tribute  of  common  juftice  to  thefe  good,  and  persecut- 
ed men  ;  who,  from  habit,  purfue  a  mode1  of  worship, 
a  little  differing  in  form,  but  terminating  in  the  fa  ma 
great  and  glorious  centre.     The  enlightened  liberal- 
ity of  the  Britifli  clergy  will  unite,   in   paying  that 
homage  to  them,  which  they,  in  my  prefer.ee,  have 
often  with  enthuHafirf,  and  rapture,  offered  up  to 
the  purity,  and  fancYity  of  their  characters.      Many 
of  them  informed  me,  that  they  had  received  the 
moft  ferviceable  favors  from  our  clergy,  administered 
with  equal  delicacy  and  munificence. 

Amongfh  thefe  groups  were  fome  females,  the 
wives  and' daughters  of  Toulonefe  merchants,  who 
left  their  city  when  lord  Hood  abandoned  that  port. 


CKAP.  IL]  ™    FRANCE.  ^ 

The  politenefs  and  attention,  which  were  paid  to 
them  by  the  men,  were  truly  pleafmg.  It  was  the 
good  breeding  of  elegant  habits,  retaining  all  their 
foftnefs  in  the  midft  of  adverilty,  fweetened  wiih  the 
fympathy  of  mutual  and  fimiiar  fufrermgs. 

They  had  finiihed  their  dinner,  and  were  drinking 
their  favorite  beverage  of  coffee.  Pcor  wanderers  I 
the  water  was  fcarceiy  turned  brown  with  the  few 
grains  which  remained  of  what  they  had  pvrchai^d 
for  their  journey* 

I  addreiled  them,  by  telling  them,  that  I  had  tue 
happinefe  of  being  paflenger  with  them,  in  the  fame 
veffel ;-  they  faid  they  were  fortunate  to  have  in  their 
company  one  of  that  nation,  which  would  be  dear  to 
them.as  long  as  they  lived.  .  A  genteel  middle  aged 
woman  offered  to  open  a  little  parcel  of  frefh  coffee, 
Which  they  had  purcha fed  in  the  town  for  the  voy- 
age, and  begged  tc  make  fome  for  me.  By  her  man- 
ner, fhe  feerned  to  wifh  me  to  conflder  it,  more  as 
the  humble  offering  of  gratitude,  than  of  politenefs. 
Or  perhaps  both  were  blendeddn  the-  offer.  In  the 
afternoon,  their  baggage  was,fearched  by  the  revenue 
oflieers,  who,  on  this  occafion,  exercifed  a  liberal 
gentlenefs,  which  gave  but  little  trouble,  and  no 
pain.  They  who  brought  nothing  into  a  country 
but  the  recollection  of  their  miferies,  were  not  very 
likely  to  carry  much  out  of  itA  but  the  remembran-ee- 
ttf  its  generality* 


JS  THE   STRANGER  [CKAP.  II. 

At  feven  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  were  all  on 
board,  and  failed  with  a  gentle  breeze  down  the  riv- 
er :  we  carried  with  us  a  good  ftock  of  vegetables, 
which  we  procured  frefh,  from  the  admirable  mark- 
et of  Southampton.     Upon  going  down  into  the  cab- 
:p,  I  was  ftruck,  and  firft  {hocked,  with  feeing  a  very 
aged    man,  flretched  at  his  length  upon  pillows  and 
clothes,  placed  on  the  floor,  attended  by  two  clergy- 
men, and  fome  women,  who,  in  their  attentions    to 
this  apparently  dying  old    gentleman,    feemed   to 
have  forgotten  their  own  comfortlefs   {ituation,   arii- 
ing  from  fo  many  perfons  being  crowded  in  fo  fmall 
a  fpace,  for  our  numbers  above  and  below  amounted 
to  futy.     Upon  inquiry,  they  informed  me,  that  the 
perfen  v/hofe  appearance  had  fd  affected  me,   had 
been  a  clergyman  of  great  repute  and  efteem  at  Ha- 
vre, that  he  was  then  pafc  the  age  of  ninety- five  years, 
fcarcely  fxpeifbed  to  furvive  our  fhcvt  voyage,  but 
was  anxious  to  breathe  his  lift  in  his    own   cevxtry, 
They  fpoke  of  him,  as  a  man  who  in  other  ffih^s,  and 
jn  the  fulnefs  of  his  faculties,  had  often  from  his  pul- 
pit, flruck  with  terrcr  rnd  contrition,  the  iremttfng 
fouls  of  his  auditors,  by  the  fcrceof  his  exalted  elo- 
quence *  who  had  embellifhed  the  focrety  in  which  he 
r:\oved,  with  his  elegant  attainments  *,  and  who  had 
relieved   the  unhappy,  with  an  enla  rged  heart  and 
munificent  hand — A  meremafsof  mifery,   and  help- 
lefs  infirmities,  remained  of  all  thefe  iioble  <analiti- 


&*S*.I&j  **   FIANCE.  ¥B 

During  the  early  part  of  the  hight,  we  made  but  Lit- 
$4  way — behind,  the  dark  fhadowy  line  oflaftd  fad-, 
ed  in  mift  j  before  us,  the  moon  (bread  a  ilmm  of 
fiNer  light  irpimthefea.  The  foft  ftillnefs  of  this 
repofe  of  nature  was  broken  only  %f  the  rippling  of 
the  light  wave  againft  the  head  and  fides  of  the  vei- 
felj  and  by  the  whitViing  of  the  htdmtmar,  who,  with 
the  helm  between  his  knees,  and  his  arms  crofted,  al- 
ternately watching  the  cempafs  and  the  foil,  thus  in- 
voked the  prefence  of  the  favoring  breez'e. 

Leaving  him,  and  fome  few  of  our  unfortunate 
comrades,  to  whom  the  motion  of  the  fea  was  mere 
novel  than  gratifying,  we  deicentied  into  the  fre'erage, 
(for  our  births  in  the  cabin  were  completely  occupS-  . 
ed  by  females.  As  we  were  going  down  the  ladder, 
the  appearance  of  fa  marry  recirmberit  perfons,  faint -y 
diitingniibable  by  the  light  cf  a  fbiitary  taper,  re- 
minded us  of  a  floating  catacomb  5  here,  crawling 
under  a  cot  which  contained  two  very  corpulent 
jiriefts,  upon  a  fpare  cable,  wrapt  up  in  our  own  great 
coats,  we  refigned  ourfelves  to  reft. 

The  next  day,  without  having  made  much  pro- 
g'refs  in  our  little  voyage,  we  srofe,  and  affetfiblcd 
round  the  companion,  which  formed  our  breakfaft  ta- 
ble *,  at  dinner,  we  were  enabled  fo  fpread  a  hand- 
fome  table  of  refreshments,  to  which  we  invited  all 
our  fellow  pafTenger-s  who  were  Capable  df  partaking 
of  them,  many  of  whom  were  preparing  to  take  their 
fcaxty  meal,  reinoved  from  us  at  the  head  of  the.t^ 


21  THE  STRANGER  [CHA?.  II. 

fel.  For  this  little  act  of  common  civility,  we  were 
afterwards  abundantly  repaid,  by  the  thankfulnefs  of 
all,  and  the  ferviceable  attentions  of  fame  of  our 
(.^harming  guefts,  when  we  landed  ;  an  initance  of 
which  I  fhall  afterwards  have  occadon  to  mention. 
The  wind  flackened  during  the  day,  but  in  the  even- 
ing it  blew  rather  freili,  and  about  nfne  o'clock  the 
next  morning,  after,  a  night  puffed  Ibmcthing  in  the 
fame  way  as  '.he  former,  we  were  awakened  by  being 
informed  that  we  were  within  a  league  of  Havre  ; 
news  by  no  means  difagreeable,  after  the.  dead  duk- 
nefs  of  a  fea  calm. 

The  appearance  of  the  coafi:  was  high,  ragged,  and 
Hocky  ;  to  ufea  good  marine  exprefiion,  it  looked 
ironbound  all  along  fhore.  To  the  eaft,  upon  an  ele- 
vated point  of  land,  are  two  noble  light  houfes,  of 
very  beautiful  conftrucuon,  which  I  fliail  have  occa- 
fion  to  dcfcribe  hereafter. 

At  fome  little  diftance,  we  faw  confiderable  flights 
of  wild  ducks.  The  town  and  bafcn  lie  round  the 
high  weflern  point  fjrom  the  lights,  below  which 
there  is-  a  fine  pebbled  beach.  The  quays  are  to  the 
right  and  left  within  the  pier,  upon  the  latter  of  which  • 
there  is  a  fmall  round  tower.  It  was  not  the  inten- 
tion of  our  packet  captain  to  go  within  the  pier,  for 
the  purpofe  of  faving  the  port-anchorage  dues,  which 
amount  to  eight  pounds  fterling,  but  a  government. 
boat  came  off,  and  ordered  the  vcfTel  to  hawl  dole  up 
to  the  cniay,  an  order  which  was  given  in  rather  a  gjft 


tVsih?.  II.j  IK.  PRANCE.  21 

reimptory  manner.     Upon  cur  turning  the  pier,  we 
faw  as  we  warped  up  to  the  quay,  an  immenfe  mot- 
ley crowd,  flocking  down  to  view  us.     A  panic  ran 
tin oughcut  our  poor  fellow  pafiengei  •,     From  the 
noifeaad  cpniufion  onihore*  they  expected  that  fbme 
recent  revolution  had  occuired,  and  thu  they  were 
upon  the  point  of  experiencing  all  the  cahjinklesj 
vrlilch  they  had  before  fled  fiom  5  they  looked  pale 
and  agitated  upon  each  clher,  like  a  timid  and  terrifi- 
ed flock  of  iheep,  when  fiiddenly  approached  by  their 
natural  enemy  the  wolf,     It  turned.  o^ii,  however,. 
that  mere  curlolity,  excited  by  the  diiplay  of  ILngllih. 
colors,  had  aU'embkd  this  formidable  Tzh>i3lerznd  that 
the  order  which  we  recerred  from  the  government 
boat,  was'  given  for  the  porpofa  of  compelling  the 
captain  to  incur*  and  ccnieqnently  to  pay,  the  an- 
chorage cfiies*     In  a  moment  we  were  tefet  by  a  par- 
cel of  men  and  boys,,  half  naked,  and  in  wooden 
fhoes,  who  hallooing  and  "  facre  d'eu'mg"  each  other 
moil  unmercifully,  began,  without  further  ceremony* 
to  feize  upon  every  trunk  within  their  reach,  which 
they  threw  into  their  boats  lying  along  fide. 

By  a  well-timed  rap  upon  the  knuckles  of  one  of 
thefe  marine  functionaries,  we  prevenced  our  luggage 
from  Iharing  the  fame  fate.  It  turned  out,  that  there 
was  a  competition  for  carrying  cur  trunks  on  ihore, 
for  the  fake  of  an  immoderate  premium,  which  they 
expected  to  receive,  and  which  occasioned  our  being 
availed  in  this  violent  maimer.     Our  fellow  pafitn- 


£2  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  IL 

gers  were  obliged  to  go  on  fhore  with  thefe  vocife- 
rous w;  )  had  the  impudence  and  inhu- 
manity to  charge  them  two  livres  each,  for  convey- 
ing them  t3  the  landing  steps,  a  fhort   diftance  of 
out    fifty  yards.     Upon  their   landing,  we  were 
b  ch  pleafed  to  cbferve  that  the  people  offered  them, 
nckher  violence  nor  irdult.     They   were  received 
with,  a  Allien  liieiice,  and  a  lar.e  was  made  for  them 
topafsinto  the  town.     The  poor  old  clergyman  who 
bad  furvived  the  pi»flage>  was  left  on  board,  in  the  care 
of  two  benevolent  perfons,  until  Lo  could  be  safely 
and  comfortably  conveyed  on   there.     We  foon  af- 
terwards folio  wed  our  fellow  paiTengers  in  the  cap- 
tain's boat,  by  which  plan  we  afforded  thefe  extor- 
tioners a  piece  of  falutarj  iaformatioti,  very  necefla- 
ry  to  be  made  known  to  them,  that  although  we  were 
.Mfh,  we  were  not  to  be  impofed  upon.     I  could 
not  help  thinking  it  rather  unworthy  of  our  neigh- 
bors to  exact,  from  us  fuch  heavy  port  dues,  when  cur 
own  demands  of  a  fimilar  nature,  are  fb  very  triiiir  - 
For  fuch  an  import,  a  vefTel  of  the  republic,  upon  its 
arrival  in  any.  of  the  Englifh  ports,  would  only  pay  a 
few  fh:l:hv;s.     Perhaps  this  difference  will  be  equali- 
zed  in  feme  fhape,  by  the  impending  commercial 
ty,  otherwise,  a  ccnfiderable  partial  advantage  will 
to   the  French  from  their  paifage  packets. 
Upon  our  landing,  and  entering  the  Greets,  I  was  a 
little  ftruck  with  the  appearance  of  the  women,  who 
were- habited  in  a  coarfe  red  camlet  jacket,  with' a 


CHAP.  II.]  IN  FRANCE.  ££ 

high  apron  before,  long  flying  lappets  to  their  cnpi, 
and  were  mounted  upon  large  heavy  wooden  fhoes, 
upon  each  of  which  a  worfied  tuft  was  fixed,  in  rude 
imitation  of  a  rofe.  The  appearance  and  clatter  of 
$hefe  fabots,  as  they  are  called,  leave  upon  the  mind 
an  impreffion  of  extreme  poverty  and  wretchednefs. 
They  are,  however,  more  favof  ed  than  the  lower 
order  of  females  in  Scotland.  Upon  a  brftk  spright- 
ly chamber-maid  entering  my  room  one  day  at  an  inn 
in  Glafgow,  I  heard  a  found  which  refembled  the 
pattering  of  fome  web-footed  bird,  when  in  the  act  of 
climbing  up  the  miry  fide  cf  a  pond.  I  looked  down 
upon  the  feet  of  this  bonny  laSie,  and  found  that  their 
only  covering  was  procured  from  the  rnud  of  the  high 
ftreet— -adieu  !  to  the  tender  eulogies  of  the  paftoral 
xeeQ,  1  I  have  never  thought  of  a  fhepherdefs  iince 
with  pleafore. 

I  could  not  help  obferving  the  eafe,  dexterity,  and 
fwiftnefs,  with  which  a  fingle  man  conveyed  all  our 
luo-page,  which  was  very  heavy,  to  the  cuftom-houfe,  ' 
and  afterwards  to  the  inn,  in  a  wheelbarrow,  which 
differed  from  curs,  only  in  being  larger,  and  having 
two  elafuc  handles  of  about  nine  feet  long.  At  the 
cuflom-houfe,  notwithflanding  what  the  Engliih  pa- 
ucrs  have  f aid  c!  the  conduct  obferved  here,  we  were 
very  civilly  treated,  our  boxes  were  only  juft  opened, 
and  fome  of  our  packages  were  not  examined  at  all. 
Away  we  had  them  whirled,  to  the  Hotel  de  la  Paix, 
thefro-atof  which  looks  upon  the  wet  dock,  and  i$ 


24'  TKIL.ST.RAN&E*  [CHAP.  II. 

embellished  with  a   large  board,  upon  which  is  re- 
corded, in  yellow  cliaraclers,  as  ufual,  the  fuperior  ad- 
vantages of  this  houfe  ever  every  other  hotel  in  H<> 
vre.     Upon  our  arrival,  we  were  ufhered  up  a. large 
dirty  fhircafe  into  a  lofty  room,  upon  the  firft  floor, 
all  the  windows  of  which  were  open,  divided,  as  they 
always  are   in  France,  in   the  middle,   like  folding 
doors  •,  the  floor  was  tiled,  a  deal  table,  fome  common 
rufli  chairs,  two  very  fine  pier  ghffes,  and  chandeliers 
to  correfpond,  compofed  our  motley  furniture.     I 
found  it  to  be  a  good  fpecimen  of  French  inns,  in 
general*     We  were  followed  by  our  hofte'fs,  the  por- 
ter, two  cooks,  with  caps  on  their  heads,  which  had 
once  been  white,  and  large  knives  in  their  hands,  who 
were  fucceeded  by  two  chamber-maids,  ail  looking  in 
the  greateft  hurry  and  confufion,  and  all  talking. to- 
gether, with  a  velocity,  and  vehemence,  which  ren- 
dered the  faculty  of  hearing  almoft  a  misfortune. 
They  appeared  highly  delighted  to  see  us,  talked  of 
our  drefs,  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  the  blockade,  the  noble 
Engiifn,  the  peace,  and  a   train  of  etceteras.     At 
length  we  obtained  a  little  ceSaticn,  of  which  we  im- 
mediately feized  the  advantage,  by  directing  them  to 
fhow  us  to  our  bed-rooms,  to  procure  abundance  of 
water  hot  and  cold,  to  get  us  a  good  breakfaft  as  foon 
iS  poihble,  and  to  prepare  a  good  dinner  for  us  at 
four  o'clocl-i.     Amidst  a  peal  of  tongues,  this  clamor  • 
Ous  proceiUon  rtiiredc 


CHAP.  II.]  JN  ffcAKCfe,  '25 

After  we  had  performed  our  necelTary  ablutions^ 
and  had  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  frefh  linen,  we  fat 
down  to  fome  excellent  coffee,  accompanied  witfc 
boiled  milk,  long  delicious  rolls,  and  tolerably  good 
butter,  but  found  no  knives  upon  the  table  %  which., 
by  the  by,  every  traveller  in  France  is  prefumed  to 
carry  with  him  :  having  mislaid  my  own,  I  requefted 
the  maid  to  bring  me  one.  The  perfon  of  this  dam- 
fel,  would  certainly  have  fufFered  by  a  comparifon 
with  thofe  fragrant  flowers,  to  which  young  poets  re- 
ferable their  beloved  miftreiTes  >  as  foon  as  I  had 
preferred  my  prayer,  {he  very  deliberately  drew  from 
her  pocket  a  large  clafp  knife,  which  after  ihe  had 
wiped  on  her  apron,  fhe  prefented  to  me3  with  a 
w  voila  monfieur."  I  received  this  dainty  prefent, 
with  every  mark  of  due  obligation,  accompanied,  at 
the  fame  time,  with  a  refolution  not  to  ufe  it,  particu- 
larly as  my  companions  (for  we  had  two  other  Eng- 
lish gentlemen  with  us)  had  directed  her  to  bring 
fome  others  to  them.  This  delicate  inftrument  was 
as  favory  as. its  miftrefs,  amongft  the  various  fragran- 
ties  which  it  emitted,  garlic  Teemed  to  have  the 
mailery. 

.About  twelve  o'clock  we  went,  to  the  hall  of  the 
municipality,  to  procure  our  pafiports  for  the  inter  ior3 
and  found  it  crowded  with  people  upon  the  fame  er- 
rand. We  made  our  way  through  them  into  a  very 
kandfomie  anti-room,  and  thence,  by  a  little  fwtlrt* 
C 


2$  THE  STRANGER  V  [CHAP.  II. 

perfeverance,  into  an  inner  room,  where  the  mayor 
and  his  officers  were  feated  at  a  large  table  covered 
with  green  cloth.  To  fhow  what  reliance  is  to  be' 
placed  upon  the  communications  of  Englifti  newfpa- 
pers,  I  mail  mention  the  following  circumftance  :  my 
companion  had  left  England,  without  a  pafTport,  ow- 
ing to  the  repeated  aflurances  of  both  the  minifterial 
and  oppofition  prints,  and  alfo  of  a  perfon  high  in  ad- 
ministration, that  none  were  neceffary. 

The  firft  qneftion  propounded  io  us  by  the  fecre- 
tary  was,  "citizens,  where  are  your  paflportS  ?M  I 
had  furnifhed  myfelf  with'  one  ;  but  upon  hearing 
this  queftion,  I  was  determined  not  to  produce  ity 
from  an  apprehension  that  I  fhould  cover  my  friend, 
who  had  none,  with  fufpicioo,  fo  we  anfwered,  that  N 
in  England  they  were  not  required '  of  Frenchmen, 
and  that  we  had  left  bur  country  with  official  afluran- 
ces  that  they  would  not  be  demanded  of  us  here. 

They  replied  to  us,  by  reading  a' decree,  which 
rigoroufly  required  them  of  foreigners,  entering  up- 
on the  territories  of  the  republic,  and  they  allured  us, 
that  this  regulation  was-  at  that  moment  reciprocal 
with  every  other  power,  and  with  England  in  particu- 
lar. The  decree  of  courfe  clofed  the  argument. 
We  next  addrefifed  ourfelves  to  their  politenels  (for- 
getting that  the  revolution  had-made  fad  inroads  up- 
on it)  and  requefled  them,  as  we  had  been  mifled,  and 
had  no  ether  views  of  vifiting  the  country,  but  thofe 
pi  pleafure,  and  improvement,  that  they  would  b.e 


CHAP.IL]  IN  FRANCE.  27 

pleafed  to  grant  us  our  pafTports  for  the  interior.  To 
this  addrefs,  thefe  high  authorities,  who  feemed  not 
much  given  to  "  the  melting  mood,"  after  making  up 
a  phyiiognomy,  as  fevere,  and  as  iron  bound  as  their 
coaft,  laconically  obferved,  that  the  laws  of  the  re- 
public muft  be  enforced,  that  they  mould  write  to  our 
ambaffador  to  know  who  we  were,  and  that  in  the 
mean  time  they  would  make  out  our  pafTports  for  the 
town,  the  barriers  of  which  we  were  not  to  pafs. 
Accordingly,  a  little  fat  gentleman,  in  a  black  coaly 
filled  up  thefe  official  inftruments,  which  were  copied 
into  their  books,  and  both  figned  by  us  ;  he  then 
commenced  our  «  fignalement,"  which  is  a  regular 
defcriptive  portrait  of  the  head  of  the  perfon  who  has 
thus  the  honor  of  fitting  to  the  municipal  portrait 
painters  of  the  departement  de  la  P^ine  inferieure. 

This  portrait  is  intended,  as  will  be  immediately 
anticipated,  to  afford  encreafed  facilities  of  all  na- 
tional guards,  marechauiseesj  thief  takers,  &rc.  for 
placing  in  "  durance  vile"  the  unfortunate  original, 
mould  he  violate  the  laws. 

The  flgnalement  is  added  in  the  margin,  to  the 
paflport,  and  alfo  regiftered  in  the  municipal  records, 
which,  from  their  iize,  appeared  to  contain  a  greater 
number  of  heads  and  faces,  thus  depicted,  than  any 
mufeum  or  gallery  I  ever  beheld. 

How  correct  the  likeneffes  in  general  are,  I  leave 
to  the  judgment  of  others,  after  I  have  informed 


28  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  II. 

them,  that  the  hazle  eves  of  my  friend  were  defcrilied 
«  yeux  bleus"  in  this  mafleriy  delineation. 

If  the  dead  march  in  Saul  had  been  playing  Before 
us  all  the  way,  we  could  not  have  marched  more 
gravely,  or  rather  fulkily,  to  our  inn.  Before  us,  we 
had  the  heavy  profpecl  of  {pending  about  ten  days  in 
this  town,  not  very  celebrated  for  either  beauty,  or 
eleanlmefs,  until  the  municipality  could  receive  an 
account  of  us,  from  our  ambaftador,  who  knew  no 
more  of  us  than  they  did.  The  other  Englifh  gentle* 
men  were  in  the  fame  predicament. 

However  we  determined  to  purfue  the  old  adage, 
that  what  is  without  remedy,  fhould  be  without  re- 
gret, and,  Englifh  like,  grew  very  merry  over  a  good 
dinner,  confining  of  foups,  and  meat,  and  fowls,  and 
fiih,  and  vegetables  (for  fuch  is  the  order  of  a  French 
dinner)  confectionary  and  a  defert,  accompanied  with 
good  Burgundy,  and  excellent  Champaign.  Our 
misfortunes  mufl  plead  our  excufe,  if  the  dinner  is 
confiderei  extravagant.  Unc'e  Toby  went  to  fleep 
when  he  was  unhappy ;  we  folicited  confolation  in 
another  way.  Our  fignalements  afforded  us  much 
diveriion,  which  at  length  was  a  little  augmented  by 
a  plan  which  I  mentioned,  as  likely  to  furnifh  us  with 
the  means  of  our  liberation.  After  dinner  I  waited 
upon  a  young  gentleman  who  was  under  the  care  of 
a  very  refpe&able  merchant,  to  whom  I  had  the  good 
fortune  to  have  letters  of  introduction.  Through 
his  means  I  was  introduced  to  Mons.  de  la  M % 


CHAP.  II.]  IN  FRANCE.  29 

who  received  me  with  great  politenefs.  In  the  hur- 
ry  and  occupations  of  very  extenfive  commercial  pur- 
fuits,  this  amiable  old  gentleman  had  found  leifure  to 
indulge  himfelf  in  works-  of  tafte.  His  noble  fortune 
enabled  him  to  gratify  his  liberal  inclinations.  I 
found  him  feated  in  his  compting-houfe,  which,  from 
its  handfome  furniture  and  valuable  paintings,  refem- 
bled  an  elegant  cabinet.  I  ftated  the  conduct  of  the 
municipality  towards  us,  and  requefted  his  affiftance. 
After  he  had  mown  me  his  apartments^  a  fine  collec- 
tion of  drawings,  by  "fome  of  the  firft  mailers,  and 
fome  more  excellent  paintings,  we  partedwith.  an  a£- 
furance  that  he  would  immediately  wait  upon  the 
mayor,  who  was  his  friend,  and  ha'd  no  doubt"  but  that 
he  fhould  in  the  courfe  of  the  next  day  enable  us  to 
leave  Havre  when  and  in  what  manner  we  pleafed, 
"With  this  agreeable  piece  of  intelligence,  I  immedi- 
ately returned  to  the  inn*  where  it  induced  us  to  drink 
.jbealth  and  fuccefs  to  the  friendly  merchant  in  another 
bottle  of  champaign* 


€:z 


30  THE  STfcANGBfl  £cHAP.  IU, 

CHAPTER  III. 

fafipcrts  procured. — Coins* — Town  of  Havre. — 
Carts, — Citoyen. — Hcnfeur. — Deferters. — Frefecl 
de  Marine. — Ville  de  Sandivich.- — French  Farm- 
ers.— Sir  Sidney  Smith. — Catharine  de  Medicis. — 
Light  Houfes. — Rafts. 

IF  Havre  had  been  a  Paradife,  the  feelings  of  re- 
jftraint  would  have  difcolored  the  magic  fcenery,  and 
turned  the  enlivening  green  to  a -cheerlefs  barren  brcwn. 

As  we  could  reii(h  nothing,  until  we  had  procured 
our  releafe,  the  firft  place  we  vifited  the  next  morn- 
ing was,  once  more,  the  refidence  of  the  municipali- 
ty, where  we  found  that  our  worthy  friend  hzd  pre- 
\ioivfly  arranged  every  thing  to  our  wifhes,  and  upon 
his  ngning  a  certificate,  that  we  were  peaceable  citi- 
zens, and  had  no  intention  to  overturn  the  republic, 
our  paflports  were  made  out,  and  upon  an  exchange 
of  a  little  fnufT,  and  a  few  bows,  we  retired.  The 
other  two  Engliihmen  had  their  wiGies  gratified,  by 
the  fame  lucky  incident,  which  had  affiftcd  us. 
Having  changed  our  guineas  for  French  money,  and 
as  in  future,  when  money  is  mentioned,  it  will  be  in 
the  currency  of  the  country/,  it  perhaps  may  not  be 
unacceptable  to  fubjoin  a  table  of  the  old,  and  new, 
and  republican  coins.  For  every  guinea  of  full 
weight,  which  we  carried  over,  we  received  twenty- 
four  livres,  or  a  louis  d'or;  which  is  ecrual  to  twenty 


CHAP.  III.]  ?  IN  FRANCE.  tl 

{hillings  fierling,  of  courfe  we  loft  one  {hilling  upon 
every  good  guinea,  and  more,  according  to  the  defi- 
ciency of  weight.  The  cottrfe  of  exchange  and  corn- 
million,  with  our  country,  I  afterwards  found  at  Paris, 
to  be  one  {hilling  and  eight  pence,  in  the  pound  Iter- 
ling,  againft  us,  but  the  difference  will  be  ^rogreflive- 
ly  nearer  par,  as  the  accuftomed  relations  of  com- 
merce refume  their  former  habits.  I  was  furprifed 
to  find  the  ancient  monarchical  coin  in  chief  circula- 
tion, and  that  of  the  republic,  very  confined.  Scarce 
a  pecuniary  tranfaclion  can  occur,  but  the  filent,  and 
eloquent  medallion  of  the  unhappy  monarch,  feems 
to  remind  thefe  bewildered  people  of  his  fate,  and 
their  paft  misfortunes.  Although  the  country  is  poor, 
all  their  payments  are  made  in  caflj,  this  is  owing  to 
the  {hock  given  by  the  revolution,  to  individual,  and 
confequently  to  paper  credit. 

To  comprehend  their  money,  it  muft  be  known, 
although  the  French  always  calculate  by  livres,  as  we 
do  by  pounds  fterling,  that  the  livre  is  no  coin,  but 
computation. 

MONARCHICAL  COINS. 
A  lonis  d'or  is  twenty-four  livres  Fr.  or   20  0  Eng. 

SILVER. 

A  grand  ecu,  or  fix  livre  piece,         -        5     0 
An  ecu,  or  three  livre  piece,        -  2     6 

The  vingt  quatre  fols  piece,      -      *       10 


S2  THE  STRANGER  (XHAP  III. 

A  douze  fols  piece  is  twelve  pence  Fr.  or   0     6 
A  fix  fols  piece  is  6d  Fr.  or     -     -    -        0     3 

COPPER  MIXED  WITH  SILVER. 

A  deux  fols,.  or  two  pence  French,  and  one  penny 
Englifh,  is  nearly  rhefize  of  our  fix  pence,  but  is  cop- 
per, with  a  white  or  filverifh  mixture,  twelve  of  thefe 
make  a  vingt  quatre  sols  piece,  or  onajgiilling  Englifh. 

They  have  alfo  another  fmall  pipe  of  nearly  the 
fame  fize  and  color,  but  not  fo  Iprhite,  and  rather 
thinner,  which  is  one  fol  and  a.  half,  three  halfpence 
French,  or  three  farthings  Engiifho 
copper. 

A  fol  is  like  our  halfpenny,  value  one  pennyr 
French,  or  a  halfpenny  Englifh,  twenty-four  of  thefe 
make  an  Englifh  milling. 

A  deux  Hard  piece  is  half  a  fol  French,  or  a  far- 
thing Englifh. 

A  liard  is  a  farthing  French,  and  of  the  value  aL 
half  a  farthing  Englifh.. 

NEW  COIN. 

A  thirty  fols  piece,  is  avery  beautiful  and  convene 
lent  coin,  worth  one  milling  and  three  pence  Eng- 
lifh, having  a  good  impreflion  of  the  late  king's  head 
'©n  one  fide,  and  the  goddefe  of  liberty -on  the*  other  ^ 
k  was  ftruck  in  the  early  part  of  the  revolufejpn. 


CHAP.  IIL]  THE  STRANGER  33 

REPUBLICAN  COIN* 

SILVER. 

A  fifteen  fols  piece  is  half  of  the  above  and  very 
convenient. 

COPPER* 

A  {ixliard  is  a  bit  of  copper  compofition,  fuch  as 
the  fine  cannon  are  made  of,  and  is  worth  three  fols 
French,  or  a  halfpenny,  and  a  farthing  Englifh. 

A  cinq  centimes  is  worth  a  halfpenny  and  half  a 
farthing  Englifh. 

■'The  centimes  are  of  the  value  of  half  farthings, 
Ave  of  which  are  equ  d  to  the  laft  coin,  they  are  very 
final!  and  neat. 

An  early  knowledge  of  thefe  co:ns,  is  very  necef- 
fary  to  a  ftranger,  on  account  of  the  difhoneft  advan- 
tages which  French  tradefmen  take  of  their  Englifh 
cuftomers. 

To  return  to  my  narrative  :  finding  ourfelves  at 
liberty  to  purfue  our  route,  we  went  from  the  munici- 
pality to  the  bureau  des  diligences,  and  fecured  oar 
places  in  the  voiture  to  Rouen,  for  the  next  day. 

After  this  neceffary  arrangement,  we  proceeded  to 
view  the  town,  which  is  compofed  of  long  and  narrow 
ftreets.  'The  fronts  of  the  houfes,  which  are  lofty, 
are  deformed  by  the  fpaces  between  the  naked  inter- 
ferons of  the  frame  work  being  fiUed  up  with  mor- 


34  IN  FRANCS.  [CHAP.  III. 

tar,  which  £ives  them  an  appearance  of  being  very 
heavy,  and  very  mean. 

The  commerce  formerly  carried  on  at  Havre,  was 
very  extenfive.  There  is  here  alfo  large  manufacto- 
ries for  lace.  The  theatre  is  very  fpacious,  well  ar- 
ranged, and -as  far  as  we  could  judge  by  day-light, 
handfcmely  decorated.  The  players  did  not  perform 
during  our  flay.  In  the  vegetable  market  place, 
which  was  much  crowded,  and  large,  we  faw  at  this 
feafon  of  the  year  abundance  of  fine  apples,,as  frefh 
in  appearance  as  when  they  were  firft  plucked  from 
the  tree. 

In  our  way  there  we  were  acccfted  by  a  little  rag- 
ged beggar  boy,  who  addrefled  himfelf  to  our  com- 
panionate difpofitions,  by  the  appellation  of  "  tres 
charitable  citoyen,"  but  finding  we  gave  nothing,  he 
immediately  changed  it  to  "  mon  chere  tres  charita- 
ble monfieur." 

The  ftrange  uncouth  expreffion  of  citoyen  is  gene- 
rally laid  afide,  except  amongfl  the  immediate  ofEcers 
under  government,  in  their  official  communications, 
who,  however,  renounce  it  in  private,  for  the  more 
civilized  title  of  "  monfieur.'* 

The  principal  church  is  a  fine  handfome  building, 
-and  had  been  opened  for  wormip,  the  Sunday  before 
we  arrived  ;  On  that  day  the  bell  of  the  Sabbath  firft 
founded,  during  ten  years  of  revolution,  infidelity, 
and  bloodfhed  I  1 1 


CHAP.  IIL]  THE  STRANGER  35 

The  royal  arms  are  every  where  removed.  They 
formerly  conftituted  a  very  beautiful  ornament'  over 
the  door  of  the  hotel  of  the  preferit  prefect,  at  the 
head  of  the  market  place,  but  they  have  been  rudely' 
beaten  out  by  battle  axes,  and  replaced  by  rude  repub- 
lican emblems,  which  every  where  (I  fpeak  of  them- 
as  a  decoration)  feem  to  disfigure  the  buildings  which 
bear  them.  When  I  made  this  remark,  I  muft,  how- 
ever, candidly  confefs,  that  my  mind  very  cordially 
accompanied  my  eye,  and  that  a  natural  fentiment 
mingled  with  the  obfervation.  The  quays,  piers,  and 
arfenal  are  very  fine,  they,  together  with  die  docks, 
for  final!  fhips  of  war  and  merchandize,  were  con- 
tracted tinder  the  aufpices  of  Lewis  XIV.  with 
whom  this  port  was  a  great  favorite. 

We  faw  feveral  groups  of  men  at  work  in  heavy 
chains.  They  were  foldiers,  who  had  offended. 
They  are  dreffed  in  red  jackets  and  tiowfers,  which 
are  fuppofed  to  increafe  their  difgrace,  on  account  of 
its  being  the  regimental  color  of  their  old  enemy,  the 
Englifh.  When  my  companion,  who  wore  his  regi- 
mentals, paired  them,  they  all  moved  their  caps  to 
him  with  great  refpect. 

The  town,  and  confequenily  the  commerce  of 
Rouen,  was  moft  fuccefsfully  blockaded,  for  near  four  9 
years,  by  Bjitifh  commanders,-  during  the  late  war, 
and  particularly  by  Sir  Sidney  Smith.     It  was  here,  J 
when  endeavoring  to  cut  out  a  veflel,  which  in  point 
of  value,  and  confideration  was  unworthy  of  fu#.  aiy 


36  IN  FfcANC*  [CHAP.  III. 

cxpofure,  fiiat  this  great  hero,  and  difunguijQied 
being,  was- made  a  prifoner  of  war.  The  inhabitants, 
who  never  fpeak  of  him,  but  with  emotions  of  terror, 
confider  this  event  as  the  rafh  refult  of  a  wager  con- 
ceived ever  wine.  Thofe  who  know  the  character  of 
Sir  Sidney,  will  not  impute  to  him  fuch  an  act  oiidk 
temerity.  No  doubt  he  confidered  the  object,  as  in- 
cluded in  his  duty,  and.  it  is  only  to  be  lamented,  th*t 
during  two  lingering  years  of  rigorous,  and  cruel  con- 
finement, in  the  dungeons  of  the  unhappy  fovereign, 
hk  country  was  bereaved  cf  the  afliftance  of  her  im- 
mortal champion,  who,  in  aiinture  feafon,  upon  the 
fhores  of  Acre,  fo  nobly  filled  up  the  gloomy  chafm 
of  fufpended  fervicea,  by  exploits  which  to  be  believ- 
ed, muit.  not  be  adequatil)  defcribed,  and  who  re- 
venged, by  an  act  of  unrivalled  glory,  the  long  en- 
durance of  fufferings,  and  indignities  hateful  to  the 
magnanimous  fpirit  of  modem  warfare,  and  unknown 
to  it,  difplayed  within  the  walls  of  a  Prufiian  dun- 
geon.* 

I  flxall  hereafter  have  occafion  to  mention  this  ex- 
traordinary character,  when  I  fpeak  of  his  efcape  from 
the  Temple,  the  real  circumfta^ces  attending  which 
are  but  little  known,  and  which  I  received  from  an- 
authority  upon  which  the  reader  may  rely. 

This  town  is.  not  unknown  to  hiftory.     At  the 

•  Tie  cruel  iffiprifastaeat  of  la  Fayette  is  Eluded  to* 


CHAP.  III.]  IN  FRANCE 

celebrated  flege  of  it,  in  the  tim#  of  Catherine  de 
Medicis,  that  execrable  princefs,  diftinguifhed  her- 
felf  by  her  perfonal  intrepidity.  It  is  faid,  that  fhe 
landed  here,  in  a  galley,  bearing  the  device  of  the 
fun,  with  thefe  words  in  greek,  "  I  bring  light,  and 
fine  weather"— a  motto  which  ill  correfponded  with 

her  conduct. 

With  great  courage  fuch  as  feldom  afTcciates  with 
«ruel,  and  ferocious  tyrants,  flie  here  on  horfeback, 
at  the  head  of  her  army,  expofed  herfelf  to  the  fire 
of  the  cannon,  like  the  moft  veteran  foldiers^  and  be- 
trayed no  fymptoms  of  fear,  although  the  bullets  fiew 
about  her  in  all  directions.  When  delired  by  the 
duke  of  Guife,  and  the  Conftable  de  Mcntmcrenci, 
not  to  expofe  her  perfon  (b  much,  the  brave,  but 
fanguinary  Catharine  replied,  «  Have  I  not  more  to 
**  lofe  than  you,  and  do  you  think  I  have  not  as 
iS  much  courage  ?" 

The  walk,  through  la  ville  de  Sandwiche,  to  the 
Eght  houfes,  which  are  about  two  miles  from  Havre, 
is  very  pleading.  The  path  lay  through  flax  and 
dover  fields.  In  this  part  of  the  country,  the  farm- 
ers pTa£tife  an  excellent  plan  of  rural  economy3 
which  is  alfo  ufed  in  Dorfetfhire,  and  fome  few  cth»- 
tr  counties,  of  confining  their  cattle  by  a  ftring  to  a 
fpot  of  pafture,  until  they  have  completely  clear- 
ed it. 

Upon  the  hill,  amending  to  the  cliffs,  are  fevsral 
3D 


39  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  III. 

very  elegant  chateaus  and  gardens,  belonging  to  the 
principal  inhabitants  of  the  town. 

Monfieur  B ,  the  prefect  de  marine,  has  a  beau- 
tiful refidence  here.  We  were  accidentally  flopping 
at  his  gate,  which  was  open,  to  view  the  enchanting 
proipedls,  which  it  prefented  to  us,  when  the  polite 
owner  obferved  us,  and  with  that  amiablenefs,  and 
civility,  which  frill  diflinguifh  the  defendants  of  the 
ancient  families  of  rank  in  France,  of  which  he  is 
one,  requefled  us  to  enter,  and  walked  with  us  round 
his  grounds,  which  were  difpofed  with  great  tafle* 
He  afterwards  conducted  us  to  his  elegant  houfe, 
and  gave  us  dried  fruit,  and  excellent  burgundy,  af- 
ter which  we  walked  round  the  village  to  the  lighjt 
houfes.  From  him  we  learnt,  that  the  farmers  here, 
as  in  England,  were  very  refpeclable,  and  had  amaff- 
ed  confiderable  wealth  during  the  war.  The  ap* 
proach  to  the  right  houfes  through  a  row  of  elms,  is 
very  pleafant ;  they  fland  upon  an  immenfe  high 
perpendicular  cliff,  and  are  lofty  fquare  buildings, 
compofed  of  fine  light  brown  free  flone,  the  entrance 
is  handfome,  over  which  there  is  a  good  room,  con- 
taining four  high  windows,  and  a  lodging  room  for 
the  people,  who  have  the  care  of  the  light,  the  glafs 
chamber  of  which  we  reached,  after  afcending  to  a 
confiderable  height,  by  a  curious  fpiral  flone  flair 

cafe.  The  lantern  is  compofed  of  ninety  immenfe 
reflecting  lamps,  which  are  capable  of  being  raifed  or 
deprefled  with  great  eafe  by  means  of  an  iron  wind- 


CHAP.  III.]  IN   FRANCE.  3£> 

lafs.  This  large  lu (Ire,  is  furrounded  with  plates  of 
the  thickeft  French  glafs,  fixed  in  fquares  of  iron, 
and  difcharges  a  prodigious  light,  in  dark  nights.  A 
furnace  of  coal  was  formerly  ufed,  but  this  has  been 
judicioufly  fuperfeded  by  the  prefent  invention. 
Round  the  lantern,  is  a  gallery  with  an  iron  balus- 
trade, the  view  from  this  elevation  upon  the  beach, 
the  entrance  of  the  Seine,  Honfleur(where  our  Hen- 
ry  III.  is  faid  to  have  fought  the  French  armies,  and 
to  have  diitinguimed  himfelf  by  his  valor)  the  diftant 
hills  of  Lower  Normandy,  and  the  ocean,  is  truly 
grand.  It  brought  to  my  mind  that  beautiful  def- 
er iption  o£  Shakefpeare — 


>e  murmuring  furge 


That  on  the  unnumbered  idle  pcbfeles  chafes, 
Cannot  be  heard  To  high  :   I'll  look  no  more, 
Left  my  brain  turn,  and  the  deficient  fight 
Topple  down  headiorg. 

We  did  not  vifit  the  other  tower,  as  it  was  uniform 
with  this.  The  woman  who  has  the  charge  of  the 
light,  was  very  good  humoured,  and  very  talkative, 
flie  feemed  delighted  to  fhow  us  every  thing,  and 
faid  fhe  preferred  feeing  Englishmen  in  her  tower  as 
friends,  to  the  view  fhe  frequently  had  of  them  from 
it  as  enemies,  alluding  to  the  long,  and  mafierly 
blockade  of  this  port  by  a  fquadron  of  Englifh  frig- 
ates.    She  carried  us  to  &er  little   mufeuin,  as  flie 


*0-  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  III. 

called  itjAvhere  fhe  had  arranged,  very  neatly,  a  con- 
siderable collection  of  fofiils,  fhells  and  petrefattions. 
Here  fhe  {hawed  us  with  great  animation,  two  Erit- 
Hh  cannon  balls,  which  during  the  blockade,  had 
very  nearly  rendered  her  hufband  and  herfelf,  as 
cold  and  as  iilent  as  any  of  the  pe {refactions  in  her 
collection.  In  this  little  cabinet  was  her  bed,  where, 
amidftthe  war  cf  winds  and  wave s,  fhe  told  us  fhe 
ilept  as  found  as  a  confid. 

In  the  bafrrs  of  Havre,  we  faw  fever al  rafts,  once 
fo  much  talked  of,  cGnflmcted  for  the  real,  or  often- 
iible  purpofe  of  conveying  the  invading  legions  of 
France,  to  the  fhores  of  Great- Britain.  I  expected 
to  have  feen  an  immenfe  floating  platform,  but  the 
vefFels  which  we  faw,  were  m»ade  like  brigs  of  2n  un- 
ufual  breadth,  with  tv/o  low  mad:.  The  fincerity 
of  this  project  has  been  much  difputed,  but  that  the 
French  government  expended  conjiderable  fums  up- 
on the  fcheme,  I  have  no  doubt. 

I  hmft  not  omit  to  mention,  the  admirable  mode, 
which  they  have  here,  and  in  moft  parts  of  France, 
-of  conftructmg  their  carts.  They  are  placed  upon 
very  high  wheels,  the  load  is  generally  arranged  fo 
as  to  create  an  equipoife,  and  is  raifed  by  an  axle, 
fattened  near  the  fhafts.  I  was  informed  by  a  mer- 
chant, that  a  fmgle  horfe  can  draw  with  eafe  thirfy- 
£x  hundred  weight,  in  one  of  thefe  carts.  Thefe 
animals  hare  a  very. formidable  appearance,  owing  to 


CHAP.  IV.]  IN  FRANCE.  41 

a  ftrange  cuftom  which  the  French  have,  of  covering 
the  collar,  with  an  entire  fhcep's  flrin,  which  gives 
them  the  appearance  of  having  an  enormous  fhag- 
gy  mane. 

At  night,,  we  fettled  our  bills  which  amounted  to 
forty  livres  each*  A  considerable  charge  in  this 
country,  but  we  had  lived  well,  and  had  not  thought 
it  worth  our  while,  on  account  of  the  probable  fhort- 
nefs  of  our  ftay,  to  bargain  for  our  lodging,  and  bcardD 
a  plan  generally  proper  to  be  ufed  by  thofe,  who 
mean  to  remain  for  fome  length  of  time,  in  any  place 
in  France. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Cheap  travelling  to  Paris. — Diligences. — French  Pof- 
tillions. — Spani/h  Poftillions. — Norman  Horfes.— 
Bolbec. — Natives  of  Gxiux. — 'Ivetot. — Return  of 
Religion. — Sa?iterre. — Jacobin. — The  Muflard  Pot* 
-—National  Property.. 

BEFORE  I  proceed  on  my  journey,  I  muft  beg 
leave  to  prefent  a  very  cheap  mode  of  travelling  to 
Paris,  from  Havre,  to  thofe  who  have  more  time  at 
their  command  than  I  had.  It  was  given  to  me  by 
a  refpeclable  gentleman,  and  an  old  traveller,. 
D  % 


i2  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  IV. 

ate 

from  Havre  to  Honfleur,  by  the  pafVage-boat  10 

From  Honfleur  to  Pontaudemar,  by  land        -         3 
Fi      :  Pontaudemar  to  Labouille  5 

From  Labcuiile  to  Pvouen,  by  water       -         -       12 
Fr^m  Rouen  to  Rolleboife,  by  land  6 

From  Rolleboife  to  Pontoife,  by  water  -       SO 

From  Pcntcife  to  Paris,  by  land  30 

>grefs,  however  is  tedious  and  uncertain. 
At  day-break  we  feated  ourfelves  in  the  diligence. 
.  the  carriages  of  this  defcription  have  the    appear- 
ance of  being  the  refult  of  the  earlieft  efforts  in   the 
building.     A  more  uncouth  clumfy  ma- 
ine  canfearcely  be  imagined.     In   the  front  is    a 
cabriolet  fixed  to  the  body  of  the  coach,  for  the   ac-v 
commodation  of  three  paiTengers,  who  are   protected 
from  the  rain  above,  by  the    projecting   roof  of  the 
zhy  ani  in  front  by  two  Heavy  curtains  of  leather, 
well  b3ed,  and  fmelling  foihewnat  offen  lively,  fatten- 
ed to  the  roof.     The  inilde,  which  is    capacious,   ar.d 
ill  hold  fix  people  with  great  comfort,  is 
>.h  leather  padded,  and  furrounded  with  lit- 
tle pock  which   the   travellers    depofit  their 
\  night  caps    and   pocket  handkerchief?, 
which  genera  f  each   others  company  in  the 
fame  delicate  depofitary.      From  the  roof  depends  a 
large  net  work,  which  is    generally  crowded  with 
|uis,  iVcrJs;  and  band  boxes,  the  whole  is  conveni- 


CllAt.  IV.]  IN  FRANCE.  43 

ent,  and  when  all  parties  are  feated  and  arranged, 
the  accommodations  are  by  no  means  unpleafant. 

Upon  the  roof,  on  the  outfide,  is  the  imperial 
which  is  generally  filled  with  fix  or  feven  perfons 
more,  and  a  heap  of  luggage,  which  latter  alfo  occu- 
pies the  bafket,  and  generally  prefents  a  pile,  half  as 
high  again  as  the  coach,  which  is  fecured  by  ropes 
and  chains,  tightened  by  a  large  iron  windlafs,  which 
alfo  conftitutes  another  appendage  of  this  moving 
mafs.  The  body  of  the  carriage  refcs  upon  large 
thongs  of  leather,  faftened  to  heavy  blocks  of  wood, 
inftead  of  fprings,  and  the  whole  is  drawn  by  {even 
horfes.  Thethree  firftare  faftened  to  the  crofs  bar,the 
reft  are  in  pairs,  all  in  rope  harnefs  and  tackling,  The 
near  horfe  of  the  three  firft,  is  mounted  by  the  poftil- 
lion,  in  his  great  jack  boots,  which  are  always  placed., 
with  much  ceremony,  like  two  tubs,  on  the  right 
fide  of  his  Rofinante,  juft  before  he  af  bends.  Thefe 
curious  protectors  of  his  legs,  are  compofed  of  wood., 
and  ircn  hoops,  foftened  within  by  fluffing,  and  eive 
him  all  the  dignity  of  riding  in  a  pair  of  upright  port- 
manteaus. With  a  long  lafh  whip  in  his  hand,  a  dir- 
ty night  cap  and  an  old  cocked  hat  upon  his  head., 
hallooing  alternately  «  a  gauche,  a  droit,"  and  a  few 
occasional  facre  dieus,  which  feem  always  properly 
applied,  and  perfectly  under/toed,  the  merry  poftil-. 
lion  drives  along  his  cattle.  I  rnuft  net  fail  to  do 
juilice  to  the  Scientific  ftiil  with  which  he  manage^, 


44  The  stranger  [chap.  IV. 

on  horfeback,  his  long  and  heavy  coach  whip  5  with 
this  commanding  inftrument,  he  can  re- animate  by  a 
touch,  each  halting  mufcle  of  his  lagging  animals, 
can  cut  off  an  annoying  fly,  and  with  the  loud  crack- 
ing  of  its  thong,  he  announces,  upon  his  entrance  in- 
to a  town,  the  approach  of  his  heavy,  and  clatter- 
ing cavalcade.  Each  of  thefe  diligences  is  provided 
with  a  conduftuer,  who  rides  upon  the  imperial,  and 
is  refponfible  throughout  the  journey,  for  the  com- 
fort of  the  pafTengers  and  fofety  of  the  luggage.  For 
his  trouble  the  pafTenger  pays  him  only  thirty  fols 
for  himfelf,  and  fifteen  more  for  the  different  poftil- 
lions,  to  be  divided  amongft  them,  for  thefe  the  don- 
or is  thanked  with  a  low  bow,  and  many  "  bien 
obliges,"  in  the  name  of  himfelf  and  his  contented 
comrades. 

Our  companions  proved  to  be  fome  of  our  old 
friends  the  emigrants,  who  had  thrown  afide  their 
marine  diinabilie,  and  difplayed  the  appearance  of 
gentlemen.  "We  were  much  pleafed  with,  again 
meeting  each  other.  Their  conversation  upon  the 
road  was  very  interefting,  it  was  filled  with  fincere 
regret  for  the  afihclions  of  their  country,  and  with 
exprefilons  of  love  and  gratitude  towards  theEngiifh. 
They  tola  us  many  little  tales  of  poikenefs,  and  hu- 
manity which  they  had  received  from  my  country- 
men in  the  various  towns,  where  their  deftiny  had 
placed  them.  One  difplayed,  with  amiable  pride,  a 
Ihuffbox,  which  he  had  received  as  a  parting  token 


CHA?.IV.]  IN   TUANCE.  45 

of  efleem',  another  a  pocket  book,  and  eadi  was  the 
bearer  of  fome  little  affectionate  proof  of  merit,  goo4 
conduct,  or  friendfhip. 

One  of  thefe  gentlemen,   the  abbe  de  l'H 3 

whofe  face  was  full  of  expreflion,  tinctured  with 
much  grief,  and  attendant  indifpofkion,  with  a  man- 
ner, and  in  a  tone,  which  were  truly  affecting,  con- 
cluded a  little  narrative  of  fome  kindnefs  which  he 
had  received,  by  faying,  "if  the  Englifh  and  my 
«  country  are  not  friends,  it  ihall  not  be  for  want  of 
"  my  prayers.  I  fled  from  France  without  tears,  fcr 
"  the  prefervation  of  my  life,  but  when  I  left  Eng- 
«  land,  I  confess,  I  could  not  help  fhedding  feme." 
They  did  not  difgrace  the  generous  abbe — fuch  a 
nation  was  worthy  of  fuch  feelings. 

Our  horfes  were  of  the  Norman  breed,  fmaU, 
flout,  fhort,  and  full  of  fpirit,  and  to  the  honor  of 
thofe  who  have  the  care  of  them,  in  excellent  condi- 
tion. I  was  furprifed  to  fee  thefe  little  animals  run- 
ning away  with  our  cumbrous  machine,  at  the  rate  of 
fix  or  feven  miles  an  hour. 

"We  traced  the  defolating  hand  of  the  revolution  as 
foon  as  we  afcended  the  firft  hill. 

Our  road  lay  through  a  charming  country.  Upon 
the  fides  of  its  acclivities,  furrounded  by  the  'moil  ro- 
mantic fcenery  of  woods  and  corn-fields,  we  faw  ruin- 
ed convents,  and  rootles  village  churches,  through 
the  fhattered  cafements  of  which  the  wind  had  free 
admifiion. 


46  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  IV. 

We  breakfafted  at  a  neat  town  called  Bolbec,  fev- 
en  leagues  from  Havre,  where  we  had  excellent  cof- 
fee, butter,  and  rolls.  All  the  houfehold  of  our  inn 
looked  clean,  happy,  and  fprightly. 

This  is  the  principle  town  of  the  province  of  Caux, 
the  women  of  which  drefs  their  heads  in  a  very  pecu- 
liar, and  in  my  humble  opinion,  unbecoming  man- 
ner. I  made  a  hafty  iketch  of  one  of  them  who  en- 
tered the  yard  of  the  inn  with  apples  for  fale. 

Such  a  promontory  of  cap  and  lace  I  never  before 
beheld.  She  had  been  at  a  village  marriage  that 
morning,  and  was  bedecked  in  all  her  finery.  The 
people  of  this  province  are  induftrious  and  rich,  and 
consequently  refpec~hble.  At  the  theatre  at  Rouen 
I  afterwards  faw,  in  one  of  the  front  boxes,  a  lady 
from  this  country,  dreffed  after  its  fafhion  :  the  ef- 
fect was  fo  lingular  that  it  immediately  induced  me  to 
diftinguifh  her,  from  the  reft  of  the  audience,  but 
her  appearance  feemed  to  excite  no  curiofity  with  any 
other  perfon.  Our  breakfaft  coft  us  each  fifteen  fous, 
to  which  may  be  added  two  fols  more,  for  the  maids, 
who  waited  on  us  with  cheerful  imiles,  and  habited 
in  the  full  cufhvois  cuftume,  and  which  alfo  entitled 
us  to  kiiTes  and  curtfies.  I  beg  leave  to  oppofe  our 
breakfaft  charge  to  the  rumors  which  prevailed  in 
England  that  this  part  cf  France  was  then  in  a  ftate 
of  famine.  From  this  town,  the  road  was  beautiful- 
fully  lined  with  beech,  chefnut,  and  apple  trees.  The 
rich  yellow  of  the  rape  feed   which  overfpread   the 


CHAP.  IV.]  IN   FRANCE.  47 

furface  of  many  of  the  fields  on  each  fide,  was  very 
animating  to  the  eye.  From  this  vegetable  the 
country  people  exprefs  oil,  and  of  the  pulp  of  it 
%iake  cakes,  which  the  Norman  horfes  will  fatten 
upon.  We  had  an  early  dinner  at  Ivetot,  five 
leagues  diftant  from  Bolbec.  In  ancient  periods  this 
miferable  town  was  once  the  capital  of  a  feparate 
kingdom.  In  our  dining  room  were  three  beds,  or 
rather  we  dined  in  the  bed  room.  I  ufe  the  former 
exprefiion  out  of  compliment  to  the  pride  of  our  lit- 
tle hoft,  who  replied  with  fome  loftinefs  to  one  of 
our  companions,  who,  upon  entering  the  room,  and 
feeing  fo  many  accommodations  for  repofe,  exclaim- 
ed, with  the  fharpnefs  of  appetite,  «  my  good  hod, 
«  we  want  to  eat,  and  not  to  deep  ;"  "  gentlemen, 
w  faid  our  mortified  little  matire  d'hotel,  this  cham- 
K  ber  is  the  dining  room,  and  it  is  thought  a  very 
"  good  one."  From  its  appearance  I  fhould  have 
believed  him,  had  he  fworn  that  it  was  the  ftate 
room  of  the  palace  of  this  ancient  principality,  of 
which  this  wretched  town  was  once  the  capital.  It 
reminded  me  of  an  anecdote  related  by  an  ancient 
Englifh  lady  of  fafhion,  when  fhe  firft  paid  her  ret 
pe£ts  to  James  I.  foon  after  his  acceflion  to  the  crown 
of  England.  She  mentions  in  her  memoir,  that  his 
royal  drawing  room  was  fo  very  dirty  >  that  after  the 
levee  fhe  was  obliged  to  recur  to  her  comb  for  relief. 
In  plain  truth,  James  I.  and  his  court  were  loufy. 


4>8  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  IV. 

Our  mafter  of  the  houfe  was  both  cook  and  waiter. 
At  dinner,  amongft  feveral  other  difties,  we  hadfome 
{tewed  beef.  I  requefted  to  be  favored  with  a  little 
muftard,  cur  hoft  very  folemnly  replied,  "  I  am  very 
«  forry,  citizen,  but  I  have  none,  if  you  had  been  for- 
* « tunate  enough  to  have  been  here  about  three  weeks 
<«  fince,  you  might  have  had  fome."  It  was  more 
than  I  wifhsd,  fo  I  ate  my  beef  very  contentedly  with- 
out it.  With  our  defert  we  had  a  fpecies  of  cake 
called  brioche,  compofed  of  egg,  flour,  and  water ;  k 
is  in  high  eftimation  in  France. 

It  was  in  this  town  only  that  I  faw    a   fpecimen   of 

that  forlorn    wretchednefs  and  importunity,  which 

liave  been  faid  to  conftitute  the  gentral  nuifance   of 

this  country. 

In  the  fhop  of  a  brazier  here,  was  expofed,  a  new 

leaden  crucifix,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  high  for 

fale  ;  it  had  been  cafl  preparatory  to  the  reinaugur- 

ation  of  the  archbifhop  of  Rouen,  which  was  to  take 

place  upon  the  next  Sunday  week,  in  the  great  ca~ 

thedral  of  that  city. 

In  confequence  of  the  refloration  of  religion,  the 
beggars  who  have  in  general  confiderable  devernefs, 
and  know  how  to  turn  new  circumflances  to  advan- 
tage, had  juft  learnt  a  frefh  mode  of  foliating  mon- 
ey, by  repeating  the  Lord's  Prayer  in  French  and 
Latin.  We  were  treated  with  this  fort  of  importu- 
Date  piety  for  near  a  mile,  after  we  left  Ivetot. 

I  have  before  mentioned,  that  the  barbarous  jargon 


CHAP.  TV.]  *N   FfUtfCfe.  4$ 

of  the  revolution  is  rapidly  paffing  away.  It  is  only 
here  and  there,  that  its  fliiny  track  remains.  The 
time  is  not  very  diftant  when  Frenchmen  wifhed  to 
be  known  by  the-  name  of  Jacobins  -,  it  is  now  be- 
come an  appellation  of  reproach,  even  amongft  the 
furviving  aborigines  of  the  revolution.  As  an  in* 
fiance  of  it,  a  naval  officer  of  rank  and  intelligence, 
who  joined  us  at  Ivetot,  informed  us,  that  he  had  cc« 
caflon,  upon  fome  matters  of  bufmefs,  to  meet  San* 
terre  a  few  days  before  *,  that  inhuman  and  vulgar 
revolutionift,  who  commanded  the  national  guards 
when  they  {unrounded  the  fcaiFold  during  the  ex  ecu* 
•tion  of  their  monarch.  In  the  courfe  of  their  ecu- 
verfation,  Santerre,  fpeaking  of  a  third  per'fon,  ex- 
claimed, "  I  cannot  bear  that  man ';  he  is  a  Jacobin." 
Let  all  true  revolutionary  republicans  Cry  out>  Bravo  ! 
at  this. 

This  mifcfea'ht  lives  unnoticed,  in  a  little  village 
near  Paris,  upon  a  {lender  income,  which  he  has 
Hiade  in  trade,  notin  the  trade  of  blood ;  for  it  appears 
that  Robefpierre  was  not  a  very  liberal  patron  of  his 
fervants.  He  kept  his  blood  hounds  lean  and  keen3 
and  poorly  fed  them  with  the  ranked  offal. 

After  a  dufty  journey  through  a  very  rich  and  pic- 
turefqu^country,  of  near  eighty  miles,  v/e  emerecl 
the  beautiful  boulevards*  Or  Rouen,  about  feven 
O'clock  in  the  evening,  which  embowered  us  from 

*•  Environs  of  3  town,  planted  with  ftately  tVees, 

s 


SO  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  IV. 

the  fun.  Their  fhade  was  delicious.  I  think  them 
finer  than  thofe  of  Paris.  The  noble  elms,  which 
compofe  them  in  four  ftately  rows,  are  all  nearly  of 
the  fame  height.  Judge  of  my  furprife — Updn  our 
rapidly  turning  the  corner  of  a  ftreet,  as  we  entered 
the  city,  I  fuddenly  found  coach,  horfes  and  all,  in 
the  aifle  of  an  ancient  catholic  church.  The  gates 
were  clofed  upon  us,  and  in  a  moment  from  the  bufy 
buzzing  of  the  ftreets,  we  were  tranflated  into  the  fi- 
lence  of  fhattered  tombs,  and  the  gloom  of  cloifters  : 
the  only  light  which  fhone  upon  us,  iiTued  through 
fragments  of  ftained  glafs,  and  the  apertures  which 
were  formerly  filled  with  it. 

My  furprife,  however,  was  foon  quieted,  by  being 
informed,  that  this  church,  having  devolved  to  the 
nation  as  its  property,  by  force  of  a  revolutionary  de* 
cree,  had  been  afterwards  fold  for  {tables,  to  one  of 
the  owners  of  the  Rouen  diligences. 

An  old  unf  tleable  cabriolet  occupied  the  place  of 
the  altar  :  and  the  horfes  were  very  quietly  eating 
their  oats  in  the  facrifty  !  ! 

At  the  Bureau,  we  paid  twelve  livres  and  a  half  for 
©ur  places  and  luggage  from  Havre  to  this  town» 


CHAP.  V.]  IN  FRANCE.  &1 

CHAPTER  V, 

A  female  French  fib. — Military  and  Civil  Procejfion.—* 
Madame  G. — The  Review. — Mons.  CAbbL — Bridge 
of  B  ats. — The  Quay. — -Exchange. — Theatre — Rou~ 
efU — Cathedral. — St,  Ouens. — Prince  of  Waldec— 
Maid  of  Orleans. 

HAVING  collected  together  all  our  luggage,  and 
feen  it  fafely  lodged  in  a  porter's  wheelbarrow,  Cap- 
tain C.  and  I  bade  adieu  to  our  fellow  travellers,  and 
to  thefe  folemn  and  unfuitable  habitations  of  hoftiers 
and  horfes,  and  proceeded  through  feveral  narrow 
ftreets,  lined  with  lofty  houfes,  the  fhops  of  which 
were  ail  open,  and  the  fhopkeepers,  chiefly  women,, 
looked  refpeclable  and  fprigbtiy,  with  gavbouquets  in 
their  bofoms,  to  the  Hotel  de  1'Europe  j  it  is.  a  fine 
inn,  to  which  wTe  had  been  recommended  at  Havre, 

kept  by  Madame  F ,  who,  with  much  politenefsj 

and  many  captivating  movements,  dreifed  a-la-Gr^e, 
with  immenfe  golden  ear-rings,  approached  us,  and 
gave  us  a  little  piece  of  information,  not  very  pleafent 
to  travellers  fome^vhat  diicoloured  by  the  duft  of  a 
long  and  fultry  clay's  journey,  who  wanted  comforta- 
ble rooms,  freih  linen,  a  little  coffee,  and  a  good 
night's  repofe  :  her  information  wras,  that  her  houfe 
was  completely  full,  but  that  fhe  would  fend  to  an 
upholfterer  to  fit  up  two  beds  for  us,  in  a  very  neat 
room,  which  ihe  had  juft  papered  and  furnifhed>  op- 


THE  STRINGER  [CHAP.  V, 

oofac  to  the  porter's  lodge  (all  the  great  inns  and  re. 
ipcctable  town-houfes  in  France  have  great  gates,  and 
a  porter's  lodge  at  the  entrance,)  As  we  wifhed  to 
hive  three  rooms,  we  told  her,  we   were   friends    of 

Mefirs.  G ,  (the  principal  merchants  of  Rouen.) 

She  faid,  they  were  very  amiable  men,  and  were 
ple&ea  to  fend' all  their  friends  to   her  %oufiy(z  little 

French  fib  of  Madame  F -'s,  by  the  by,  as   will 

ifter  y)  and  fhe  was  truly    f  me 

commodate  us  better.       We  looked   in- 
to the  room,  which  alio  looked    into  th 
expofed  to  all  its  noife5  and  very  finall.     So  we  made 

bows  to  madame  F ,   and  proceeded  with. 

our  wheelbarrow  to  the  Hotel  de  Poitiers — a  rival 
houfcv     It  is  fituated  in    the    beautiful   boulevards, 

ch  I  have  mentioned,  and  is  part  of  a  row  of  fine 

.  s-boik  hcufes.    Upon  cur  ringing  the  bell,  Mad- 
P prefented  herfelf.      We  told  her;  we 

'ejufc  arrived  at  Rouen,  that  we  had  the  honor 

of  being  known  to  tOvMeilrs,  G ,  and  fhould  be 

happy  to  be  placed  under  her   roof,   and  wii 

8  fitting  room  to  our- 
fetvesj     LL;dameP~ ,  who  pofifeiTed  that   fort  of 

ct  and  generous  heart,  v  its  bet- 

ervation,  had  lodged  in  a   coixifortable  envel- 
ope  cr"  comely  pbimpnefs,  obferved,    that  Mefirs. 

G '"emeu  of  great  respectability,    were 

lier  patrons,  and  always  feni  their  friends  to  her  houfe 
(a  point  upon  which  thefe  rival  dames  were  at  uTue, 


CHAP.  V.]  IN  FRANCE.  53 

but  the  truth  was  with  Madame  P— . ;)  that  fhe 
,  would  do  all  in  her  power  to  make  us  happy  ;  but 
at  prefent,  on  account  of  her  houfe  being  very  crowd- 
ed, me  could  only  offer  us  two  bed-rooms.  We 
were  too  tired  to  think  of  any  furtheV  peregrinations 
ofdifcovery;  fo  we  entered  our  bedrooms,  which, 
like  moll  of  the  chambers  in  France,  had  brick  floors 
without  any  carpetting  ;  they  were,  however  clean  y 
and,  after  ordering  a  good  fire  in  one  of  them  (for 
the  fudden  and  unufual  froft,  Which  in  the  beginning 
of  fummer,  committed  fo  much  ravage  throughout 
Europe,  commenced  the  day  we  had  firft  the  honor 
of  feeing  Madame  f- — -  ;)  and3  after  enjoying 
thofe  comforts  which  weary  wanderers  require,  wb 
mounted  our  lofty  beds,  and  went  to  reft. 

The  next  day  we  prefented  our  letter,  and  our* 

felves,  to  Madame  G ,  the  amiable  mother   of 

the  gentleman  I  have  mentioned.  She  received  us 
with  great  politenefs,  and  immediately  arranged  a. 
dinner  party  for  us,  for  that  day.  It  being  rather 
early  in  the  morning,  we  were  admitted  into  her 
chamber,  a  common  cuftom  of  receiving  early 
vii7ts  in  France. 

About  eleven  o'clock  we  faw  a  fplendid  proceflion 
of  all  the  military  and  civil  authorities  to  the  hotel* 
of  the  prefect,  which  was  opposite  to  our  inn. 

*  Hotel,  in  France,,  means  either  an  inn,  or  prv  >:<s 
koufe.  of  confequence. 


54  THE  STB.ANGER  [CHAP  V. 

The  object  of  this  cavalcade  was  to  congratulate 
the  archbifhop  of  Rouen  (who  was  then  upon  a  vifit 
to  the  prefect,  until  his  own  palace  was  ready  to  re- 
ceive him)  on  his  elevation  to  the  fee. 

This  fpeitacle  difplayed  the  interference  of  God, 

in  thus  making  the  former   enemies  of  his   worfaip 

pay  homage  to  his  minifters,  after  a  long  reign  of 
atheii'm  and  persecution. 

About  twelve  o'clock,  which  is  the  hour  of  parade 
throughout  the  republic,  we  went  to  the  Champ  de 
Mars,  and  faw  a  review  of  the  £0th  .regiment  of  chaf- 
feurs,  under  the  command  of  generals  St.  Hiliare  and 
RuSin,  who,  as  well  as  the  regiment,  had  particular- 
ly diftinguifhed  themfelyes  at  Marengo. 

The  men  were  richly  appointed,  and  in  general 
v  ell  mounted.  They  all  wore  muftachios.  They 
were  jiift  arrived  from  Amiens,  where,  as  a  mark  of 
honor,  they  had  been  quartered  during  the  negotia- 
tion. 

The  officers  were  fuperbly  attired.  St.  Hiliare  is 
a  young  man,  and  in  perfon  much  refembles  his  pat- 
ron and  friend,  the  firft  conful  *,  and  they  fay,  in 
abilities  alfo. 

Some  of  the  horfes  were  of  a  diilimllar  £ze  and 
color,  which  had  a  bad  effect ;  but  I  was  informed, 
upon  making  the  remark,  that  they  had  loft  many  in 
battle,  and  had  not  had  time  properly  to  replace  them. 
They  were  all  ftrong  and  fiery,  and  went  through 
their  evolutions  with  furpnung  fwiftnefs. 


CHAP.  V.]  IN'S&ANCE.  &'£ 

At  dinner  our  party  was  very  agreeable.  Next  to* 
me  fat  a  little  abbe,  who  appeared  to  be  in  years,  but 
Full  of  vivacity,  and  feemed  to  be  much  efteemed  by 
every  perfon  prefent.  Daring  the  time  of  terror  (as 
the  French  emphatically  call  the  gloomy  reign  of 
Robefpierre)  the  blood  of  this  good  man,  who,  from 
his  wealth*  piety,  and  munificence,  poffefled  confid* 
erable  influence  in  Rouen,  was  fought  after  with  keen 

purfuit.     Madame  G was  the  faviour  of  his.  life, 

by  concealing  him,  previous  to  her  own  imprifonment,. 
for  twa  years,  in  different  cellars,  under  her .  houfa, 
which  fhe  rendered  as  warm  and  as  comfortable  as 
drcumftances,  and  the  nature  of  the  concealment 
would  allow.  In  one  of  thefe  cells  of  humane  fecre- 
cy,  this  worthy  man  has  often  eaten  his  folitary  and 
agitated  meal,  whilft  the  foldiers  of  the  tyrant,  who 
were  quartered  upon  his  proteclrefsj  were  caroufirg 
in  the  kitchen  immediately  above  him. 

Soon  after  our  coffee,  -which,  in  this  country,  im- 
mediately fucceeds  the- dinner,  we  went  to  view  the 
bridge  of  boats,  fo  celebrated  in  hiftory,  This  curi- 
ous ftru£lure  was  contrived  by  an  Auguftine  friar  nav 
med  Michael  Bbugeois,  it  is  compofed  cf  timber,  re- 
gularly paved,  in  fquares  which  contain  tie  ftones, 
and  is  1000*  feet  in  length  ;  it  commences  from  the 
Jniddle  of  the  quay  of  Rouen ,  and  reaches  over  to  the ., 

*  The  French   feci  are  to  tUc  Enghfii  as  ic5&  to 


56  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  V. 

Fauxbourg  of  St.  Sever,  and  carries  on  the  communi- 
cation with  the  country  which  lies  fouth  of  the  city. 
It  was  begun  in  the  year  1 626,  below  it  are  the  ruins 
of  the  fine  bridge  of  13  arches,  built  by  the  emprefs 
of  Maud,  daughter  of  Henry  I.  of  England.  This 
ingenious  fabric  reds  upon  19  immenfe  barges,  which 
rife  and  fall  with  the  flowing  and  fubfiding  of  the 
tide.  When  veiTels  have  occasion  to  pafs  it  a  portion 
of  the  platform  fufficient  to  admit  their  paffage  is 
raifed  and  rolled  over  the  other  part.  In  the  win- 
ter when  any  danger  is  apprehended  from  the  large 
flakes  of  ice,  which  float  down  the  river,  the  whole 
is  taken  to  pieces  in  an  hour.  The  expenfe  of  keep- 
ing it  in  repair  is  eftimated  at  10,003  livres,  or  400 
pounds  fterling  per  annum,  and  is  defrayed  by  gov- 
ernment, it  being  the  high-road  to  Ficardy.  Upon 
the  whole,  although  this  bridge  is  fo  much  admired^ 
I  muft  cenfefs  it  appeared  to  me  a  heavy  performance 
unfuitable  to  the  wealth  and  fplendor  of  the  city  of 
Rouen,  and  below  the  talle  and  ingenuity  of  mod- 
ern times.  A  handfome  light  ftone  ftructure,  with 
a  centre  arch  covered  with  a  draw  bridge,  for  the  paf- 
fage of  veffels  of  confiderable  burden,  or  a  lofty  fly- 
ing iron  bridge,  would  be  lefs  expenflve,  more  fafe* 
and  much  more  ornamental. 

The  view  from  this  bridge  up  the  Seine,  upon  the 
iilands  below  mount  St.  Catharine,  is  quite  enchant- 
ing. Upon  the  quay,  although  it  was  Sunday,  a 
%&  number  of  people  were  dancing,  drinking  and 


CRAP.  V.]  IN  FRANCE.  57 

attending  ftiows  and  lotteries.  Here  were  people 
of  various  nations,  parading  np  and  down  in  the  hab- 
its and  drefTes  of  their  refp.ctive  countries,  which 
produced  quite  the  effect  of  a  mafquerade.  The 
river  Seine  isfo  deep  at  this  place,  that  fhips  of  three 
hundred  tons  burden  are  moored  clofe  to  the  quay 
and  make  a  very  fine  appearance.  Theexchange  for 
the  merchants  is  parallel  with  the  centre  of  th?  quay, 
and  is  a  long  paved  building  of  about  400  fget  in 
length,  open  at  top,  having  a  hand fome  iron  balu- 
ftrade,  and  feats  towards  the  Seine,  and  a  high  ftone. 
wall  towards  the  town.  Over  all  the  great,  gates  of 
the  city,  is  written,  in  large  characters,  "  Liberty, 
Equality,  Humanity,  Fraternity  or  Death  :"  the  laft 
two  words  have  been  painted  over,  but  are  ftill  faint- 
ly legible. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  French  opera,  which 
was  very  crowded.  The  boxes  were  adorned  with 
genteel  people,  and  many  beautiful  young  women* 
The  theatre  is  very  large,  elegant  and  handfeme, 
and  the  players  were  good.  I  was  ftruck  with  the 
ridiculousantics,  and  geftures  of  the  chief  in  the  orch- 
eftra,  a  man  whofe  office  it  is  to  beat  time  to  the  mu- 
ficians.  Lithe  municipality  box  which  was  in  the 
centre,  lined  with  green  filk,  and  gold,  were  two 
fine  young  women  who  appeared  to  be  ladies  of 
fafhion,  and  confequence  ;  they  were  dreffed  after 
the  antique,  in  an  attire  which,  for  iightnefs,  and 
fcantities  I  never  faw  equalled,,  till  I  kw  it  furpalied 


58  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  V. 

at  Paris.  They  appeared  to  be  clothed  only  in  jew- 
els, and  a  little  muflin  very  gracefully  difpofed,  the  ► 
latter,  to  borrow  a  beautiful  exprefiion,  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  "  wovenair."  From  emotions  of  grati- 
tude for  the  captivating  diplay  which  they  made,  I 
could  not  help  offering  a  few  fervent  wifhes,  that 
the  light  of  the  next  day  might  find  them  preferved 
from  the  dreaded  conferences  of  a  very  bitter  cold 
night. 

Rouen,  upon  the  whole,  is  a  fine  city,  very  large, 
and  populous.  It  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Normandy.  It  ftands  upon  a  plain, 
fcreened  on  three  fides,  by  high,  and  piclurefque 
mountains.  It  is  near  two  leagues  in  compafs,  exclu- 
sive of  theFauxbourges  of  St.  Severs,  Cauchcife,  Bcu- 
veul,  St.  Hiliare,  Martainville  and  Beauvifme.  Its 
commerce  was  very  celebrated,  and  is  returning  with 
great  rapidity.  Mo  ft  of  the  fine  buildings  in  this  city 
and  its  environs  are  Anglo-Norman  antiquities,  and 
were  founded  by  the  Englifh  before  they  left  Nor- 
mandy. 

The. cathedral  is  a  grand,  and  awful  pile  of  gothic 
architecture,  built  by  our  William  the  Conqueror.  It 
has  two  towers,  one  of  which,  is  furmounted  by  a 
wcocenfpire  ccver.d  w'thlead,  and  is  of  the  prodig- 
ious height  of  395  French  feet,  the  other  is  236 
feet  high. 

The  additional  wooden  fpire,  and  the  inequality  of 
the   towers  produce  rather  an  unfavourable   effect 


ciur.  V.]  IN  TRANCE.  39 

During  the  revolution,  this  auguft  edifice  was  con- 
verted into  a  fulphur  and  gun-powder  manufactory, 
by  which  impious  prostitution,  the  pillars  are  defaced, 
and  broken,  and  the  whole  is  blackened  and  dingy. 

The  coftly  cenotaphs  of  white  marble,  enriched 
with  valuable  ornaments  containing  the  hearts  of  our 
Henry  III.  and  Richard  I.  kings  of  England,  and 
dukes  of  Normandy,  which  were  formerly  placed  on 
each  fide  of  the  grand  altar-piece  were  removed  dur- 
ing the  revolution. 

•  The  altarpiece  is  very  fine.  Grand  preparations 
were  making  for  the  inauguration  of  the  archbifhop, 
which  was  to  take  place  the  following  Sunday.  There 
were  not  many  people  at  mafs  \  thofe  who  were  pref- 
ent,  appeared  to  be  chiefly  compofed  of  old  women, 
and  young  children.  Over  the  charity  box  fattened 
to  one  of  the  pillars  was  a  board  upon  which  was 
written  in  large  letters  "  Hofpices  reconnoiiTance  et 
profperite  a  l'homme  genereux  et  fenfible."  I  faw 
few  people  affected  by  this  benedictory  appeal.  I 
next  vifited  the  church  of  St.  Ouens,  which  is  not  fo 
terge  as  the  cathedral,  but  furpafies  that,  and  every 
other  facred  edifice  I  ever  beheld,  in  point  of  ele- 
gance. This  graceful  pile,  has  alfo  had  its  fhare  of 
fufferings,  during  the  reign  of  revolutionary  barba- 
rifm.  Its  chafte,  and  elegant  pillars  have  been  vio- 
lated by  the  fmoke  of  fulphur  and  wood  5  and  in  raa- 
r.y  places,  prefent  to  the  diftrefied  eye,  chafms,  pro-  - 
duced  by  marly  forges,  which  were  erected  againft 


$0  THE  STRANGES.  [CK.4P.  V, 

them,  for  calling  ball.  The  coftly  railing  of  brafs, 
gih,  which  half  furrounded  the  altar,  has  been  torn 
»p,  and  melted  into  cannon.  The  large  circular  {rained 
window  over  the  entrance  called  La  Rofe  du  Portail 
js  ver^  beautiful,  and  wholy  unimpaired.  The  or- 
gans in  all  the  churches  are  broken  and  ufelefs. 
They  experienced  this  fate,  in  confequence  of  their 
having  been  confidered  as  fanatical  inftruments  dur- 
ing the  time  of  terror.  The  fine  organ  of  St.  Ouens 
is  in  this  predicament,  and  will  require  much  coft  to 
repair  it.* 

I  cannot  help  admiring  the  good  fenfe  which  in  all 
the  churches  of  France  is  difplayed,  by  placing  ihe 
organ  upon  a  gallery  over  the  grand  entrance,  by 
which  the  fpecbtcr  has  an  uninterrupted  view,  and 
commands  the  whole  length  of  the  interior  building. 
In  the  Englifh  cathedrals,  it  is  always  placed  miu 
between  the  choir  and  church,  by  which,  this  defir- 
<ed  effect  is  loft.— -St.  Cuens  is  now  open  for  worfhip, 

In  fpite   of  all  the  devaluations  of  atheiftic  Van- 

dalifm,  this  exquifite  building,  like  the  holy  caufe  to 

ch  it  is  confecrated,  having  withftood  the  affailing 

florin,  and  elevating  its  meek,  but  magnificent  h:ad 

above   its  enemies,  is  mildly  ready  to  receive  tl. 

w 

*  The  ornaments  of  the    churches  of  England  expe- 
rienced  t  fitful*?    fate  from   the  comaiiiE  juers  of 
liong  ptrlianient,  in  1C43, 


CHAP.  V.]  IN  TRANCE.  61 

into  the  bofom,  ftill  disfigured  with  the  traces  of  blind 
and  barbarous  ferocity. 

Behind  the  altar,  I  met  the  celebrated  prince  of 
Waldec.  He,  who  pofTeffed  of  royal  honors,  and 
ample  domains,  revolted  in  the  day  of  battle,  from 
his  imperial  matter,  and  joined  the  victorious  and  pur- 
fuing  foe.  I  beheld  him  in  a,  fhaded  corner  of  one 
of  the  cloifters  of  St.  Ouens,  in  poor  attire,  with  an 
old  umbrella  under  his  arm,  fcantily  provided  for, 
and  fcarcely  noticed  by  his  new  friends.  A  melan- 
choly, but  juft  example  of  the  rewards  due  to  treach- 
ery and  defertion. 

I  have  dfcfcribed  thefe  churches  only  generally,  it 
cannot  be  expected  of  me  to  enter  into  an  elaborate 
hiftory  of  them,  or  of  any  other  public  edifices.  The 
detail,  if  attempted,  might  prove  dull,  and  is  altogeth- 
er incompatible  with  the  limited  time,  and  nature  of 
my  excurfion. 

After  we  left  St.  Ouens,  we  vifited  the  fquare  aux 
Vaux,  where  the  celebrated  heroine  of  Lorrain,  Jo- 
an d'Arc,  commonly  called  the  Maid  of  Orleans  was 
cruelly  burnt  at  the  ftake,  for  a  pretended  forcerefs, 
but  in  fact  to  gratify  the  barbarous  revenge  of  the 
duke  of  Bedford,  the  then  regent  of  France  ;  becaufe 
after  fignal  fucceflfes,  {he  conducted  her  fovereign, 
Charles,  in  fafety,  to  Rheims,  where  he  w2s  crown- 
ed, and  obtained  decifive  victories  over  the  Englifh 
arms.  We  here  &w  the  ftatue  erefted  by  the  French, 
F 


; 

02  THE   STS.AM3ER  fCITAP.  VI. 

he  memory  of  this  remarkable  wornsn,  which  as 
an  object  of  fculptae  feems  to  pcfTeis  very  Httle  vcr- 
Oaf  notice 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Fir/?  CsnfuVs  'Adv&vtiferMfif. — Something  ridiculous — 
£§&- — Criminal  Military  Tribunal. — French  Fe- 
male Confidence. — Tsivn  Houfe. — Convent  of  Jgf- 
y\is* — GttilUiini. — Governcr  Jr  • 

UPON  locking  up  againf:   the  corner   wall  of  a 
ftreefc,  furrotihded  by  particoloured  advertiieinents 
cuack  medicines,  wonderful  cures,  new  invented  el  • 
fences,  judgments  of  cafiation,  rewards  for  robbers, 
and   bills  of  the  opera,   I  beheld  Bonaparte's  addreis 

the  people  of  France,  to  elefl  him  firft  conful  for 
life.  Itookit  for  granted  that  the  Spaniih  proverb  of 
C(  tc"d  me    with    whom  you  are,   and  I  will  tell  you 

hat  you  are,"  was  not  to  be  applied  in  this  iaa  .  .  ; 
on  acccaaat  of  the  company  in   which  the    Ccifui 
'application,  by  a  msre  fortuitous  coincidence,  happen- 
ed to  be  placed . 

A  ch^um&race  occurred  at   tins  time:   refpecl 

h:ch  was  rather  nd'culous,  and  excit- 
ed conn*  d?'.vh  le  mirth  at  P».ris.  Upc  .  the  i:.i\  ap- 
pear?  a  oao:c  or   the  iirit  coni;a„  :;i 


CHAP.  VI.]  IN    FRANCE.  63 

fubfcribing  his  name,  immediately  under  the  title  of 
the  page,  "  fhall  Napolecn  Bonaparte  be  firft  cohful 
for  life  ?"  wrote  the  following  words,   «  I  can't  tell." 

This  trilling  affair  affords  rather  a  favorable  im- 
preflionof  themildnefs  of  that  government,  which 
could  infpire  fufheient  confidence  to  hazard  flich  a 
(broke  of  pleafantry.  It  reached  Mai  Maifon  with 
great  fpeed,  but  is  fald  to  have  occaacncd  no  oilier 
fenfation  there,  than  a  little  merriment.  Care.- 
bold  negative  was  a  little  talked  of,  but  as  It  was  &:- 
itary,  it  was  confidered  harmlcfs.  To%  the1  lotfe  Bt 
finery  which  the  French  (till  retain  to  a  certain  de- 
gree, I  could  alone  attribute  the  gay  appearance  :; 
the  eggs  in  the  market,  vpon  which  had  been  ben-ow- 
ed a  very  fmart  ftam  of  iliac  color.  The  effeel  was 
fo  lingular  that  I  could  not  help  noting,  it  down. 

On- the  third  day  alter  our  arrival  in  this   city,  we 
attended  the  trial  of  a  man  who  belonged    to    one  of 
the  banditti  which  infeft  the  country  round  this  city. 
The  court  was  held  in  the  hall  of  the  ancient  parlia- 
ment houfe,  and  was  ccmpof'ed  of  three  civil  jue- 
(one  of  whom  prefided)   three  military  judges,   and 
two  citizens.     The  arrangements  of  the  court;  whieL 
was  crowded,  were  excellent,  and    afforded  uninte:- 
rupted  accommodation  to  all  its  members,, by  feparate 
doors  and  paflages  allotted  to  'each*    and   alfo  to   the 
people,  who  were  permitted  to  occupy  the  large   a:    t 
in  fron^  which  gradually  rofe  from  the   laft  feats  of 
the  perfons  belonging  to  the  court;  and  enabled  ever* 


6-r  TH£    STRANGER  [CHA*.  VI. 

fpe£htor  to  have  a  perfect  view  of  the  whole.      Ap- 
propriate moral  rnoUos  were  infcribed  in  characters 
of  gold,  upon  the  walls.    The  judges  wore  long  laced 
bands,  and  robes  of  black,  lined  with  light  blue  filk, 
with  fcarfs  of  blue  and  fiber  fringe,  aiid  fat  upon  an 
elevated  femicircular  bench,  raifed  upon  a  flight  of 
{tens,  placed  in  a   large  alcove,  lined  wiih  tapeftry. 
The  fecretaries,  and  fubordinate  officers  were  feated 
below  them.     On  the  left  the  prifoner  was  placed, 
without  irons,  in  the  cuftody  of  two  gend'armes,  for- 
merly called    marechauffees,   who  had   their    long 
Avoids  drawn.     Thefe  foldiers  have  a  very  miUtary 
appearance,  and  are  a  fine  and  valuable  body  of  men. 
I  fear  the  refpectable  impreffion  which  I  would  wifh 
to  convey  of  them  will  fuffer,  when  I  inform  my 
reader,  that  they  are  fervants  of  the  police,  and   an- 
fwer  to  our  fbw-ftreet  runners.     The  fwiftnefs  with 
which  they  purfuc,  and  apprehend  offenders,    is  fur- 
prifing.      We   were    received  with   politeiuft,  md 
conducted  to  a  convenient  place  for  hearing,  and  fee- 
ing all  that  palled.     The  accufateur  general  who  fat 
on  the  left,  wore  a  coftume  fimilar  to  that  of  the  judg- 
es, without  the  fcarf.     He  opened  the  trial  by   relat- 
ing the  circumftances,   and  declaiming  upon  the  en- 
ormity of  the  offence,  by  which  it  appeared  that  the 
prifoner  flood  charged   with  robbery,  accompanied 
with  breach  of  hoipitality  ;  which,  in  that    country, 
be  ikt  amount  of  the  plunder  ever   fo  trifling,  is  at 
prefent  capital.     The  addrefs  of  the  public  accufer 


CHAP.  VI.]  .       **>***■     , 

was  very  florid,  and  vehement,  and  attended  by  vn, 
;:geLre,occaiionalIygraceful.     Theple.de,  « 
NorLdy  are  conildered  as  the  moil  client  men, 
in  Trance,  I  have  heard  feveralof  them,  but  tney  a?~ 
'    pCar  to  me  to  be  too  impaffioned.      Their  motions  m 
fpeakingh-ecmently   look  like    maduefs.      Bf  ^ 
fhcked    his  language    to  furnifh   hirnlek  w*h   re- 
proachful    epithets     again*  the    miserable    wreccn 
by  the  fide   of. him,  who  with  his  hands  m  his  b?* 
fbm  appeared'  to  liften  to  him    with  the    greaUii 
fang  -froid.      The  witnefies  who  were   kept  fepar* 
ate/  previous  to  their  giving  their   evidence,   werj 
numerous,  and  proved  many  robberies  .againfl .him, 
attended   with  aggravated  breaches^    of   hofpnauty. 
The  court  entered  into  proofs  of  cfeces.  commuted 
by  the  prifoner  at  difeent  times,   and  upon  .differ- 
ent perfons.     The  women  who  gave  their  teftimonv , 
exhibited  a   ftriking    contraft  between  the    timidly 
of  Englilh  females,  confronting  the  many   eyes   of  a. 
crowded  court  of  jufiice,  and  the  calm  felf  poflliii:  n 
^ith  which  the  French  ladies  here  delivered   their 
unperturbed  teftimegg.     The    charges  were  clearly 
proved,  and  the  prifoner  was  called  upon  for  his  de- 
fence.    Undifmayed,  and  with  all  the  practifed  har- 
dihood of  an  Old  Bailey  felon,   he  calmly  declared; 
that  he  purchased  the  pile  of  booty  produced  in   Ui| 
court,  for  fums  of  money,  the  -mount  of  which,  he  c  id 
-~,t  tK-:  krmw,  of  Dcrfons  be  could  not  name,  ana  *.i 


66  THE  STRANGER  [CHA.P.    VI. 

places  which  he  did  not  remember.  He  had  no  ad- 
vocate. The  fubject  was  next  refumed,  and  clofed 
by  the  official  orator  who  opened  it.  The  court  re- 
tired,  and  the  criminal  was  re-conducted  to  the  prif- 
ett  behind  the  hall.  After  an  abfence  of  about 
twenty  minutes,  a  bell  rang  to  announce  the  return 
cf  the  judges,  the  prifoner  re-entered,  efcorted  by  a 
file  of  national  guards,  to  hear  his  fate.  The  cou  t 
refumed  its  fitting.  The  prefident  addreffed  the 
unhappy  man,  -very  briefly,  recapitulated  his  offences, 
and  read  the  decree  of  the  republic  upon  them,  by 
which  he  doomed  him  to  lofe  his  head  at-  four 
o'clock  that  afternoon. 

It  was  then  ten  minutes  pad  one  !  !  The  face  pf 
this  wretched  being  prefented  a  line  fubject  for  the 
pencil.  His  countenance  was  dark,  marked,  and 
melancholy ;  over  it  was  fprcad  the  fallow  tint  of 
long  imprifonment.  His  beard  was  unfhorn,  and  he 
difplayed  an  indifference  to  his  fate,  which  net  a  lit- 
tle furprifed  me.  He  immediately  retired,  and  upon 
his  return  to  his  cell,  a  pried  was  fent  forta  prepare 
him  for  his  doom.  At  prefent,  in  the  provinces,  ail 
criminal  offences  are  tried  before  military  tribunals> 
qualified,  as  I  have  defcribed  this  to. be,  by  a  mixture 
of  civil  judges  and  bourgeois. 

It  is  one  of  the  peculiar  character  iftics  of  fuch  tri- 
bunals, to  order  immediate  punifhment  after  convic- 
tion,    In  the  prefent  mftance,  the  fate  cf  the  offers 


chap.  VL]  m  t*W*  ^* 

4er   was   well  known,  for  Uis  crimes  were  many, 
and  manifefl,  and  as  the  interval  allowed  by  military 
courts  between  the  fentence,  and  its  fulfilment,  is  fa 
very  Ihort,  the  administrators  of  the  law  had  postpon- 
ed his  trial  for  five  months  from  the   period  of  his 
commitment,  for  the  purpcfe  of  affording  him  an  in- 
dulgent Drocraftination.     This  mode,  although    ari£* 
ing  from  merciful  motives,  is,  I  am  aware,  open   to 
objection  ;  but  it  would  be  unfair  to  comment   upon 
laws,  which  prevailed  in  times  of  revolution,  and  are 
permitted  only  to  operate,  until  the  fabric  of  French 
criminal  juriiprudence,  which  is  now    conftruc"Hng> 
fh  .11  be  prefented  to  the  people.  To  the  honor  of  our 
country,  and  one  of  the  greateft  ornaments  of  theBrit- 
ifh  bar,  the  honorable  T.  Erfkine,  in  the  year  1789> 
fumifhed  the  French  with  fome  of  thefe  great  princi- 
ples of  criminal  law,  which  it  was  ircpoflible  to  perfedt 
during  the  long  «ra  of  convulfion,   and  instability, 
which  followed,  and  which  wil  constitute  a  consider- 
able part  of  that  great,  and  humane  code,   which  is, 
about  tp  be  bellowed  upon  the  nation,   and  which 
will,  no  doubt,  prove  to  be  one  of  the   great  eft   bleST- 
ings,  which  human  wifdom  can  confer  upcn  human 
weaknefs. 

Its  foundation  is  ncarfy  fimilar  to  that  of  our  own. 
Tire  great  and  enlightened  genius  whofe  name  I  have 
mentioned,,  has.  provided  that  the  contumacy  of  one 
juryman  ShaUnotbeabletofbrce  the  opinion  of  the  reft 


6&  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  VI.' 

After  the  court  had  broken  up,  I  vifited  the  town 
houfe,  which,  before  the  revolution,  wr.s  the  monas- 
tery of  the  Benedictines,  who,  from  what  appeared  of 
the  remains  of  their  eflablifhment,  muft  have  been 
magnificently  lodged,  and  well  deferred  during  their 
exiftence,  to  bear  the  name  of  the  bleffed.  The  two 
grand  ftaircafes  are  very  fine,  and  there  is  a  noble 
garden  behind.  Upon  entering  the  veftibule  of  the 
council  chamber,  formerly  the  refectory,  I  thought  I 
was  going  behind  the  fcenes  of  a  theatre.  It  was 
nearly  tilled  with  allegorical  banners,  pafreboard  and 
canvais  arches  of  triumph,  altars,  emblems  of  liberty, 
and  defpotifm,  and  all  the  fcenic  deccratidns  fuitable 
to  the  frenzied  orgies  of  a  republican  fete.  Thank 
Cod  !  they  appeared  to  be  tolerably  we'll  covered' 
.  with  duft  and  cob  webs.  At  the  end  of  this  noble 
room,  feated  upon  a  high  pedcftal,  was  the  goddefs  of 
liberty;  beautifully  executed  in  marble.      "Look  at 

"  that  ianguinary  proftitute,"  cried  Mons.  G , 

to  me,  pointing  to  the  {latue,  "  for  years  have  we  had 
<f  liberty  and  bioodfhed,  thbttrk  Heaven  !  we  are  now ! 
«■  no  longer  free."  Upon  which,  he  wrote  his  name 
in  the  fnft  comuTsbook,  which  was  here  lying  open, 
vpon  a  table,  for  the  purpofe  of  receiving  the  iuftrag- 
cs  of  the  department. 

The  laconic  irony,  and  manner  of  the  fpeaker,  af- 
f-3idei  me  a  tolerably  gocd  display  of  i 


CHAP.  VI.]  IN   FRANCE.  69 

the  bleflings  conferred  upon  the  Freach,  by  their  late 
political  phiiofophy. 

From  this  place  I  proceeded  to  the  cidevant convent 
of  the  Jefuits,  built  by  one  of  the  munificent  dukes  de 
Bourbon.  It  is  a  magnificent  oblong  flone  building. 
In  the  centre  of  the  court  was  a  tree  of  liberty, 
which,  like  almoft  all  the  other  trees*  dedicated  to 
that  goddefs,  which  I  faw,  looked  blighted,  and  fick- 
\y.  I  mention  it  as  a  fact,  without  alluding  to  any 
political  fentiment  whatever.  It  is  a  remark  in  fre-» 
quent  ufe  in  France,  that  the  caps  of  liberty  are  with- 
out heads,  and  the  trees  of  liberty  without  root*  The 
poplar  has  been  fe!e&ed  from  all  the  other  trees  of 
the  foreft,  for  this  diftinguifhcd  honor,  from  a 
whimfical  fynonymy  of  its  name  with  that  of 
the  people.  In  French,  the  poplar  is  called 
peuplicr  and  the  word  peuple  fagnirles  people. 
This  fine  building  is  now  converted  into  an  uni- 
verflty  of  learning,  ^and  the  fine  arts.  From  the 
the  number  of  the  fludents,  I  fhould  fuppofe  the 
fafhionable  fervor  of  fludy  had  not  as  yet  reached 
Rouen. 

The  profefTor  of  philofbphya  with  great  politenefs 
fcnt  a  young  man  to  fhow  me  the  mufeum  of  pic- 
tures, for  which  purpofe  the  church  of  the  Jefuits,  is 
at  prefent  ufed.  There  are  feverai  paintings  in  it, 
the  only  fine  one,  was  a  dying  Jefus  by  Vandyke, 
which  was  exquiiite.  Upon  my  expreffing  ray  ad- 
jnir:ition,  a  young  ftudent  near  me  faid  *?.  oui  moa* 


70  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP,  VI. 

fieur  c'efl  tres  jbiie."  This  mifapplied  remark,  frcm 
an  eafy  and  natural  combination  of  found,  could  not 
fail  of  feeming  a  little  Angular  as  applied  to  fucli  a 
fubjectj  but  every  thing  that  pleafes  in  France  is  tree 
jolie.  From  this,  painting,  I  was,  by  importunity,  led 
to  view  the  other  parts  of  the  collection,  which  were 
compofed  of  large  pictures,  by  French  matters  •,  and 
fo  natural  is  local  prejudice;  every  where,  that  I  was 
almofc  held  down,  before  the  works  of  the  befl  artijls 
cfR:uen3  upon  which,  as  I  am  at  liberty  here,  I  lhall 
beg  to  make  no  comment. 

In  the  fhudents'  room,  below,  were  fome  paintings 
curious,  and  valuable  only,  from  their  great  anticmity, 
and  a  few  good  copies  by  the  pupils.  A  picture  was  J 
pointed  out  to  me  as  a  very  fme  thing,  the  fubject 
was  a  fat  little  cherub;  with  a  full  flowing  wig,  fcddHrig 
to  St.  Francis,  who  from  his  gloomy  appearance 
feemed  not  to  pcflcTs  hatf  the  muikal  genius  of  a 
dancing  bear . 

•  Upon  my  return  through  the  market  placej  I  beheld 
the  miferabie  wretch,  at  whofe  trial  I  was  prefent  in 
the  morning,  led  out  to  executicn.  lie  was  feated 
upon  the  bottom  of  a  cart,  {tripped  above  to  his  ihirt, 
which  was  folded  back,  his  arms  were  pinioned  dole 
behind,  and  his  hair  was  clofely  cropped,  to  prevent 
the  flroke  of  the  fatal  knife  from  being  impeded.  A 
priefr.  was  feated  in  a  chair  beiide  him.  As  the  ob- 
ject of  my  excurllcn  was  to  contemplate  the  manners 
of  the  people,  I  Jummoned  resolution  to  vie 


CHAP.  VL]  IN  FRANCE.     '  7T 

gloomy  and  painful  fpeclaclo,  which  feemed  to  excite 
bnt  little  fenfation  in  the  market  place,  where  its  pet- 
ty traffic  and  concerns  proceed  with  their  accuflomed 
activity,  and  the  women  at  their  flails,  which  extend- 
ed to  the  foot  of  the  fcaffold,  appeared  to  be  im- 
prerTed  only  With  the  folicitude  of  felling  their  vege- 
tables to  the  higheft  bidder.  A  fmall  body  of  the 
national  guards,  and  a  few  beys  and  idlers  furround- 
ed  the  fatal  fpot.  The  guillotine,  painted  red,  was 
placed  upon  a  fcaffold,  of  about. five  feet  high.  As 
foon  as  the  criminal  aicenaecl  the  upper  flep  which 
led  to  it  he  mounted,  by  the  dire ^ion  of  the  execu- 
tioner, a  fittle  board,  like  a  fhutter,  raifed  upright  to 
receive  him,  to  which  he  was  ftrap^cd,  turned  dowji 
fiat,  and  run  into  a  fmall  ring  of  iron  half  opened  and 
made  to  admit  the  neck,  the  top  part  of  which  was 
then  clefed  upon  it,  a  black  leather  curtain  was  plac- 
ed before  the  head,  from  which  a  valve  depended, 
which  communicated  to  a  tub,  placed  under  the  fcaf- 
fold to  receive  the  blood,  the  executioner  then  touch- 
ed a  Ia:g  thin  iron  rod,  consecled  with  the  top  oi  the. 
inftruments,  and  in  a  moment  the  axe  dcfcenJed, 
which,  was  in  the  form  of  a  fquare,  cut  diagonally^ 
heavily  charged  with  lead.  The  executioner  and  his 
afThTan^  p-aredthe  body  in  a  fhell,  'half  felled  wlrfV 
fWdufr.,  which  wai  almoft  completely  ftaine£  ever 
with  the  brown  blood  of  former  executions;  they 
l^n  F— ?d  «r  &*  ke&A;  frdm  a  D2£  htl  ?;kkh  ,  ' 
1      -'•■•"■'  !  r.  ^dHvi:;^  placed  it  i-  '.].- 


72  THE   STRANGE*  £CHAP.  VI, 

fame  gloomy  depository,  lowered  the  whole  down  to 
the  fextons,  who  covering  it  with  a  pall  bore  it  off  to 
the  place  of  burial . 

The  velocity  of  this  mode  of  execution  can  alone 
recommend  it.  The  pangs  of  death  are  pafled  al- 
moft  in  the  fame  moment,  which  prefents  to  the  ter- 
rified eye  of  the  fufferer  the  frightful  apparatus  of 
his  disgraceful  diflblution.  It  is  a  dreary  fubjecl:  to 
difcufs  i  but  furely  it  is  a  matter  of  deep  regret,  that 
in  England,  criminals  doomed  to  die,  from  the  uncer- 
tain and  lingering  nature  of  their  annihilation,  are 
feen  writhing  in  the  convulfions  of  death  during  a 
period  dreadful  to  think  of.  It  is  faid,  that  at  the 
late  memorable  execution  of  an  African  governor  for 
murder,  the  miferable  delinquent  was  beheld  for 
fifteen  minutes  ftruggling  with  the  torments  of  his  un- 
timely fate  !  The  guillotine  is  far  preferable  to  the 
favage  mode*,  formerly  ufed  in  France,  of  breaking 
the  criminal  on  the  wheel,  and  leaving  him  after- 
wards to  periftk  in  the  moft  poignant  agonies. 

As  I  have  alluded  to  the  fate  of  governor  \V" — , 
I  will  conclude  this  chapter  by  relating  an  anecdote 
of  the  terror  and  infatuation  of  guilt,  difplayed  in  the 
conduct  of  this  wretched  man,  in  the  prtfence  of  a 
friend  of  mine,  from  whom  I  received  it — A  few 
years  before  he  fuffered,  fatigued  with  life,  and  pur- 
sued by  poverty,  and  the  frightful  remembrance  of 
His  offences,  then  almoft  forgotten  by  the  world,  he 
Jefc  the  fouth^f  France  for.  Calais,  with  an  intentk 


•chap.  VI.]  in  nuKC».  W 

paffing  over  to  England,  to  offer  himfelf*  up  to  its 
laws,  not  without  the  cherifhed  hope  that  a  lapfe  of 
twenty  years  had  fwept  away  all  evidence  of  his 
guilt. 

At  the  time  of  his  arrival  at  this  pprt  town,  the 

hotel  in  which  Madame  H- was  waiting  for  a 

packet  to  Dover  was  very  crowded — the  landlord  re- 
queued of  her,  that  fhe  would  be  pleafed  to  per- 
mit two  gentlemen,  who  were  going  to' England, 
to  take  fome  refrefhment  in  her  room  j  theie 
pe^foffis  proved  to  be  the  unfortunate  Brooks,  a  king's 
mefTenger,  charged  with  important  difpatches  to  Lis 
court,  and  governor  W — •  The  latter  was  drcfiecl 
like  a  decayed  gentleman,  and  bore  about  him  all  the 
indications  of  his  extreme  condition.  They  had 
not  been  featcd  at  the  table  long,  before  the  lat- 
ter informed  the  former,  with  evident  marks 
of  perturbation,  that  his  name  was  W — ,  that- 
having  been  charged  in  England  with  offences., 
which,  if  true,  fubje&ed  him  to  heavy  punifhrncnt., 
he  was  anxious  to  place  himfelf  at  the  difpofal  of  its 
laws,  and  requeued  of  him,  as  he  was  an  Englifh 
tneiTenger,  that  he  would  coniider  hirn  as  his  prifon- 
«r,  and  take  charge  of  him. 

The  mefTenger,  who  was  much  fdrpriied  by  thi 
•application  told  him,  that  he  would  not  upon  fi*&  a 
reprefentation  take  hirn  into  tmftody,  unlefs  he  ha$ 
an  order  from  the  duke  of  Portland's  office  to  ths! 
$,  and  that  in  order  to  obtain  it,  it  \?culd  be  prop- 
G 


74  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  VI. 

er  for  him  to  write  his  name,  that  it  might  be  com- 
pared with  his  hand  writting  in  the  office  of  the  fec- 
retary  at  war  which  he  offered  to  carry  over  with 
him.  Governor  W —  ftill  prefTed  him  to  take  him 
into  cuflody,  the  meffenger  more  ftrongly  declined 
it,  by  informing  him  that  he  was  the  bearer  of  dif- 
patches  of  great  importance  to  his  court,  that  he 
muf!  immediately  crofs  the  Channel,  and  fhould  haz- 
ard a  pafFage,  although  the  weather  looked  lower- 
ing in  an  open  boat,  as  no  packets  had  arrived,  and 
tbjat  ccnfequently  it  was  altogether  impoffible  to  take 
faa  over,  but  again  requefted  him  to  write  his  name, 
u  r  the  purpofe  already  mentioned  ;  the  governor 
coufented,  pens  and  paper  were  brought,  but  the 
hand  of  the  murderer  {hook  fo  dreadfully,  that  J*e 
could  not  write,  and  in  an  agony  cf  mind,  bor- 
dering upon  frenzy  he  rufhed  out  of  the  room,  and 
immediately  left  the  town. 

The  mefTecger  entered  the  boat,  and  fet   fail  •,  a 
ftorm  quickly  followed,  the  bsat  funk  in  fight  of  the 
.  and  all  on  board  but  one  of  the   watermen  per- 
il! cd  !  !  ! 

The  great  difpofer  of  human   deftiny,  in  vindica- 
tion of  his  eternal  juftice,  refcued  the  life  of  this  in- 
fatuated delinquent  from  the  waves,  and  from  a  fbd- 
den  death,  to  refign  him  to  the   public  and  merited 
aws. 


CHAP.  VII.]  IN    FRANCE.  W 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Filial  Piety. — St.  Catharines  Mount.— Madame  Phil- 
lope.— General  Riiffith  Trumpd.—Generofity.— 
Love  Infectious, — Mafons  and  Gardners.    \ 

I  HAVE  before  had  occafion  to  mention  the  hu- 
mane concilia  of  Madame  G towards  the  perfe- 
cted abbe  ;  me  foon  afterwards,  with  the  principal 
ladies  of  the  city,  fell  under  the  difpieafure  cf  Rob- 
efpierre,  and  his  agents.  Their  only  crime  was 
wealth,  honorably  acquired.  A  committee.,  com>-of- 
ed  of  the  mod  worthlefs  people  of  Rouen,  was  term- 
ed, who,  in  the  name  of,  and  for  the  ufe  of  the  na- 
tion, feized  upon  the  valuable  dock  of  Menrs.  G , 

who  were  natives  df  France.  In  one  night,  by  torch- 
light, their  extenfive  ware  houfes  were  u.ckec1,  and 
all  their  ftdres  were  forcibly  fold  in  the  public  mark- 
et place  to  the  beft  bidder  :  the  plundered  merchants 
were  paid  the  amount  of  the  fale  in  amgnats,  in  a  pa- 
per currency  which  then  bore  an  enormous  difebunt^ 
and  fhortly  afterwards  retained  only  the  value  cf  the 
paper  upon  which  the  national  note  was  written.  In 
fhort,  in  a  few  hours  an  honorable  family,  nobly  alli- 
ed, were  defpoiled  of  a  property  to.  the  amount, of 
25,000/.  fterling.  Other  merchants  ihared  the  fame 
fate.  This,  act  of  robbery  was  followed  by  an  act  of 
cruelty.  Madame  G — — ,  the  mother,  who  was 
born  in  England,  and  who  married  a  French  gentle-. 


76  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  VIL 

man  o£  large  fortune,  whom  fhe  furvived,  of  a  deli- 
cate  frame  and  advanced  in  years,  was  committed  to 
prifon,  where,  with  many  other  female  fufferers,  fhe 
was  clofely  confined  for  eleven  months,  during  which 
time  fhe  was  compelled  to  endure  all  forts  of  priva- 
tions. After  the  committee  of  rapine  had  fettled 
theh  black  account,  and  had  remitted  the  guilty  bal- 
ance'to  their  employer?,  the  latter,  in  a  letter  of 
ic  triend!y  collufion,  and  fraudulent  familiarity/'  af- 
pafling  a  few  revolutionary  jokes  upon  what  had 

Occurred,  obferved  that  the  G 3  feemed  to  bleed 

rc-ry  freely,  arid  that  as  it  was  likely  they   muit  have 
creilif:  with  many  perfons  to  a  large  amount,   directed 
at  and  active  banditti  to  order  thefe   de- 
voted ^gentlemen  to  draw,  and  to  deliver  to  them, 
ts  upon  all  fucii   per  fens  who  flood  in- 
debted to  their  eztennve  concern.     In  the  words 
a  celebrated  orator,*  "  Though  they  had'fhaken 
« tree  till  nothing  remained  upon  the  ieafiefs  bra: 
ff  es   yet  a  new  iiight  was  on  the  wing,  to  watch  the 

uddings  of  its  profperity,   and  to   nip  F 
<:  Jjope  of  future  foliage  and  fruit." 

The  G s  expected  this  vifit,  and,  by  an  inge- 
nious, and  jufHhed  expedient,  prevented  then*  perdi- 
tion from  becoming  decifive. 

*  Vide  Sheridan's  oration  again  ft  Raftings  upon  the 
Begum  charge. 


CHAP.  VIL]  IN  FRANCE.  I  i 

Soon  after  the  gates  of  the  prifon  were  clcfed  iip- 
on  Madame  G ,  her  eldeft  fen,  a  man  ex  com- 
manding perfon,  and  eloquent  addreis,  in  defiance  of 
every  friendly,  and  of  every  affectionate  entreaty, 
flew  to  Paris, 

It  was  in  the  evening  of  lafi  winter  which  beheld 
its  mows  crimfoncd  with  revolutionary  carnage,  when 
he  preferred  himfelf,  undifmayed,  before  that  ccrn- 
mittee,  whofe  horrible  nature  will  be  better  defcrib- 
ed  by  merely  relating  the  names  of  its  members, 
then  fitting,  than  by  themort  animated  and  elaborate 
delineations  of  all  its  deadly  deeds  of  rapine  and  of 
blood.  At  a  table  covered  with  green  cloth,  fhabbily 
lighted,  in  one  of  the  committee  rooms  of  the  nation- 
al ailembly,  were  feated  Robefpierre,  Collot,  d: 
bois,  Carnot,  and  David.  They  were  occupied  lit 
filling  up  the  lifts  for  the  per  in  event  guillotine,  :::;> 
ed  very  near  them,  in  la  Place  de  la  Revokuicn, 
which  the  executioners  were  then  cleanup-  of  its 
gore,  and  preparing  for  the  next  day's  butchery.  In 
this  devoted  capital  more  blood  had,  during  that  day 
{breamed  upon  the  fcafrold,  than  on  anyone  chv  dm- 
ing  the  revolution. 

The  terrified  inhabitants,  in  darknefs,  in  remote 
receffes  of  their  defolate  houfes,  were  fiTently  offer. 
bg  up  a  payer  to  the  great  God  of  Mercy  to'  rev?:.;,, 
them,  in  a  way  moft  fuitable  to  his  wifJC:n,  from 
fuchfeenes  of  deep  diimny,  and  remcifeiekj  fku'alr 
ter, 

G  2 


TKIi  STRANGER  ^        [CKAP.  VII. 

Robefpteritfj  as  ufual,  was  dreffed  with  great  neat- 
nefs  and  gaiety  •,  the  fivaee  was  generally  fitted, 
whilft  his  affociates  were  habited,  en  Jacobin,  in  the 
fqualld,  filthy  fafhion  of  that  era  of  the  revolution,  in 
the  drefs  of  blackguards. 

Mr.  G bowed;  and  addreffed  them  very  ref. 

pcclfuliy,  <•  I  am  come,  citizens,  before  you,"  faid 
this  amiable  fon,  "  to  implore  the  releafe  of  my  mo- 
"  ther  j  fhe  is  pining  in  the  prifons  of  Rouen,  with- 
r<  cut  having  committed  any  offence  ;  fhe  is  in  years  ^ 
'f  and  if  her  confinement  continues,  her  children 
w  v.  hole  fortunes  have  been  placed  at  the  difpofal  of 
«  the  national  exigencies,  will  ha\e  to  lament  her 

th  •,  grant  the  prayer  of  her  fon,  reitore,  I  con-^ 
"jure  you,  by  all  the  rights  of  nature,  reitore  her  to 
«  her  afBi'fted  family/'  Robefpierre  looked  ob- 
liquely at  him,  and  with  his  accu domed  iharpnefs, 
interrupted  him  from  proceeding  further,  by  exclaim- 
ing u  what  right  have^otf  to  appear  before  us,  mif- 
si  creant  ?  you  are  an  agent  of  Pitt  and  Cobourg  (the 
«  then  common  phrafe  of  reproach)  you  fhall  be  fait 

be  guillotine — -Why  are  you  not  at  the  frou- 
u  tiers  \"    Ivlonficur    G ,  unapplied,    replied, 

:  me  my  mother,  and  I  will   be   there  tc-mor- 
"row,  I  arc  ready  inftantly  to  fpill  my  blood,   if  it 

.'.  be  the  price  of  her  difcharge."     Robefpierre, 

rrhofe  favage  foul  was  occaiionally  moved  by  fights. 

of  heroic  virtue,  feemed  imprelfed  by  this  brave  and 

...  He  paufed, and  after  whlfrcring  a: 


CttAh  VII.J  IH  FRANCS,  79 

few  words  to  his  afibciates,  wrote  the  difcharge,  and 
handing  it  over  to  a  foidier,  for  the  fuccefsful  peti- 
tioner, he  fiercely  told  him  to  retire. 

Mr.  G inftantly  fet  out  for  Roiien,  where,  af- 
ter a  long,  and  fevere  journey,  he  arrived,  exhattfte4 
with  fatigue,  and  agitation  of  mind ;  without  re- 
frefhment,  tliis  amiable  man  flew  to  the  gates  of  the 
prifon,  which  contained  his  mother,  and  preferred 
the  difcharge  to  the  goaler,  who  drily,  with  a  brutal 
grin,  informed  him,  that  a  trick  had  been  played  off 
upen  him,  that  he  had juft  received  a  counter  order, 
which  he  held  in  his  hand,  and  refufed  to  releafe 
her !  !  ! 

It  turned  out  that  immediately  after  Mr,  G-™ 
had  left  the  committee  room,  the  relenting  diipofl- 
ticn,  which  he  had  momentarily  awakened  in  the  bar- 
parous  bread  of  Robefpierrc,  had  fubfided. 

The  generous  fentiment  was  of  a  fhort,  and  fickly 
growth,  and  withered  unde*  the  gloomy,  fatal  fhade 
of  his  fanguinary  nature.  A  chafleur  had  been  dif- 
patched  with  the  counter  order,  who  palled  the  ex* 
ultingj  but  deluded  G- on  the  road. 

A  fhort  time  after  this,   and   a  few  days   before 

Madame  G ,and  her  unhappy  companions  were 

to  have  periihed  on  the  fcafFokl,  the  gates  of  their 
prifon  Hew  open,  the  world  was  releafed  from  a  mon- 
ger— Robefpierre  was  no  more. 

This  interefting  recital  I  received  from  one  cf  the 
imlaMe  fbffcrers;  in  our    way  to   St,    Catharine's 


- 


80  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  VJI> 

Mount.     The  ftcry  afforded  a  melancholy    contrail; 
to  the  rich  and  cheerful  fcenes  about  us.    - 

From  the  attic  ftoryof  a  lofty  houfe,  built  under 
this  celebrated  cliff,  we  afcended  that  part  of  it, 
which,  upon  the  road  to  Paris,  is  only  acceffible  in 
this  manner.  When  we  reached  the  top,  the  prof- 
pect  was  indeed  fuperb  ;  on  one  fide  we  traced  for 
miles,  the  romantic  meanders  of  the  Seine,  every 
where  forming  little  iflands  of  poplars  •,  before  us, 
melting  away  in  the  horizon,  were  the  blue  moun- 
tains of  Lower  Normandy  ;  at  their  feet,  a  variegat- 
ed difplay  of  meadows,  f  orefts,  corn  fields,  and  vine- 
yards ;  immediately  below  us,  the  city  of  Rouen,  and 
its  beautiful  fuburbs.  This  delicious,  and  expanded 
profpeel:,  we  enjoyed  upon  a  feat  erected  near  a  little 
oratory,  which  is  built  upon  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain, retting,  at  one  end,  upon  the  pedeftal  of  a  crofs, 
which,  in  the  time  of  the  revolution,  had  been  Shat- 
tered and  overturned. 

From  this  place,  before  dinner,  we  proceeded  to  la, 
Montagne  ;  a  wild  and  hilly  country,  lying  oppcfite 
to  St.  Catharine's.  Here  we  were  overtaken  by  a 
ftorm,  upon  which,  a  cure,  who  had  obferved  us 
from  his  little  cottage,  not  far  diftant,  and  who  had 
been  very  lately  reinflated  in  the  cure  of  the  church., 
in  the  neighboring  village,  came  out  to  us  with  an 
umbrella,  and  invited  us  to  dinner.  Upon  our  re*, 
turn  to  our  inn,  to  drefs,  we  were  annoyed  by  a  nui- 
fance  whjch  had   before  frequently  affailed  us,       I 


CHAP.  VIL]  IN  FRANCE..  31 

knew  a  man>  who  in  a  moment  of  ill  humour  vented 
rather  a  revengeful  wi£h  that  the  next  neighbor  of  his 
enemy  might  have  a  child,  who  was  fond  of  a  ivhif- 
tie  and  a  drum  !  A  more  infufferable  nuifance  was 
deftined  for  us  ;  the  perfon  who  lodged  in  the  next 
room  to  mine,  was  a.  beginner  (and  a  dull  one  too) 
upon- the  trumpet.  It  was  general  Ruffin,  whom  I 
have  mentioned  before,  forcing  from  this  brazen 
tube,  founds  which  certainly  would  have  fet  a  kennel 
of  hounds  in  a  cry  of  agony ,  and  were  almoft  calcu- 
lated to  difturb  the  repofe  of  the  dead.  General 
Rufrln,  in  all  other  refpects,  was  a  very  polite,  and 
indeed  a  very  quiet  young  man,  and  a  brave  warrior  ;. 
but  in  the  difplay  of  his  paflion  for  muiic,  I  fear  he 
mii#ook  either  his  talent  or-  his  inftrument.  At  one 
time  we  thought  of  inviting  him  to  dine  with  us,  that 
we  might  have  a  little  refpite,  but  after  debating  the 
matter  well  over,  we  conceived  that  to  entertain  an 
Italian  hero,  as  he  ought  to  be  received  by  thefe  who 
admire  valor  even  in  an  enemy,  was  purchafing  filencc 
at  a  very  advanced  price,  fo  we  Submitted  to  the  evil 
with  that  resignation  which  generally  follows  the  in- 
curable abfence  of  a   remedy.      We   now  addrefTed 

ourfelves  to  Madame  P ,  to  know  how  long  the 

general  had  learned  the  trumpet,    and  whether  his 
leifure  hours  were  generally  occupied  in   this  way, 

Madame  P 3  was,  ftrange  to  tell,  not  veryable  to 

afford  us  much  information  upon  the  fubjedh      She 
was  under  the  influence  of  love.     The  natural  tran< 


82  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  VII. 

quillity  of  her  difpofitioii,  was  improved  by  the  prof- 
pect  of  connubial  happinefs,  which  although  a  wid- 
ow, and  touching  the  frontier  of  her  eight  and  thir- 
tieth year,  fhe  fhortly  expecled  to  receive  from  the 
fon  of  a  neighbouring  architect,  who  was  then  a  mi- 
nor. In  this  blifsful  frame  of  mind,  our  fair  hofttfs 
fcarcely  knew  when  the  trumpet  of  general  Ruffin 
founded.  Her  foul  was  in  harmony  with  all  the 
world,  and  it  was  not  in  the  power  of  the  demon  of 
difcord,  nor  even  of  this  annoying   brazen  tube,  to 

diilurb  her.     Madame  P well  deferved   to  be* 

blefTed  with  fuch  equanimity,  and  ifj&e  liked  it,  with 
fuch  a  lover,  for  (he  was  a  generous  and  good  crea- 
ture. 

A  gentleman  to  whom  I  was  afterwards  introduc- 
ed, when  the  revolution  began  to  grow  hot,  fled  with  I 
his  lady  and  his  children  into  a  foreign  country, 
where,  upon  the  relics  of  a  fhattered  fortune  he  re- 
mained, until  things  wore  a  better  afpect,  and  enabled 
him,  with  a  profpecl:  of  fafety,  to  return  to  his  na- 
tive country.  In  better  times,  upon  his  annual  vifits. 
to  a  noble  chateau,  and  large  eftates  which  he  once  * 
poiTeifed  in  this  part  of  Normandy,  he  was  accuftom- 
ed  to  (top  at  the  Hotel  de  Potiers.  His  equipage 
was  then  fplendid,  and  fuitable  to  his  affluent  circum- 
flances.  Upon  his  return  to  France,  this  gentleman, 
harrafled  by  lofles,  and  fatigued  by  ncknefs,  arrived 
with  his  accomplimed  lady,  and  their  elegant  chil- 
dren, in  a  hired  cabriole,    at   the  gate  of  Madame. 


CHAP.  VII.]  IN  FRANCE.  83 

p .      As  foon  as  their   name  was  announced, 

the  grateful  hoftefs  prefented  herfelf  before  them, 
and  killing  the  children,  burft  into  tears  of 
joy  ;  when  fhe  had  recovered  herfelf,  fhe  ad- 
dreffed  her  old  patron,  by  expreffing  her  hopes, 
that  he  had  amended  his  fortune  abroad,  and  was 
now  returning  to   enjoy  himfelf  in  tranquillity  at 

home. — «  Alas  !    my  good  Madame  P ,"   faid 

this  worthy  gentleman,  "  we  left  our  country,  as  you 
«  know  to  fave  our  lives,  we  have  fubfifted  upon  the 
«  remains  of  our  fortune  ever  iince,  and  have  fuftain- 
«  ed  heavy  and  cruel  loffes  -,  we  have  been  taken 
«  prifoners  upon  our  pafTage,  and  are  now  returning 
«  to  our  home,  if  any  is  left  to  us,  to  folicit  fome  re- 
"  paration  for  our  fu  fferings. — Times  are  altered, 

-"  Madame  P^ ,  you  rauft  not  now  confider  me  as 

"  formerly,  when  I  expended  the  gifts  of  Providence 
"  in  a  manner  which  I  hope  was  not  altogether  un- 
"  worthy  of  the  bounty  which  fhowered  them  upon 
"  me,  we  muft  bow  down  to  fuch  difpenfations,  you 
"  fee  I  am  candid with  you;  we  are  fatigued,  and 
"  want  refrefhment,  give  us,  my  good  landlady,  a 
"  little  plain  dinner,  fuch  as  is  fuitable  to  our  prefent 
"  condition." 

Madame  P was  fo  much  affected,   that    fhe 

could  make  no  reply,  and  left  the  room. 

Immediately  all  the  kitchen  was  in  a  buftle,  every 
pot  and  pan  were  placed  in  inftant  requifition,  the 
chamber-maids  were  fent  to  the  neighboring  conjee- 


84?  THE  STR/NGER  [CHAP.  VII. 

fioners  for  cakes,  and  the  porter  was  difpatched  all 
over  the  city  for  the  choiceft  fruits.  In  a  fhort  time 
a  noble  dinner  was  ferved  up  to  this  unfortunate  fam- 
ily, followed  by  confectionary,  fruits,  and  burgundy. 

When  the  repaft  was  over,  Mons.   O -  oidered 

his  bill,  and  his  cabriole  to  be  got  ready.  Madame 
P  ■  i  entered,  and  in  the  mo  ft  amiable  manner  re- 
-queried  him,  as  fhe  httd  exceeded  his  orders,  to  con- 
sider the  dinner  as  a  little  acknowledgment  of  her 
fenfe  of  his  paft  favors  j  money,  though  earneftly 
preffed  upon  her,  fhe  would  not  receive. 

The  whole  of  this  inter efting  party  were  moved  to 
tears,  by  this  little  act  of  nature  and  generofity. 
When  they  entered  their  carriage,  they  found  in  it 
bouquets  of  flowers,  and  boxes  of  cakes  for  the  little 

children.     No  doubt  Madame  P— moved  lighter 

that  day,  than  fhe  ever  did  in  her  life,  and  perhaps 
found  the  remembrance  of  her  conduct  upon  the  oc- 
cafion  almoft  as  exquirite  as  the  hours  cf  love,  which 
{he  appeared  moft  happily  to  enjoy,  when  we  had 
the  honor  of  being  under  her  roof. 

Monficur  O could  not  help  exhibiting  much 

feeling,  when  he  related  this  little  event  to  me.  I 
muft  not  fail  to  mention  that  all  the  houfe  feemed, 
for  the  moment,  infected  with  the  happy  difeafe  of 
the  miftrefs.  General  RufHn's  valet  de  chambre 
was  in  love  with  Dorothee,  our  chambermaid  j  the 
porter  was  pining  for  a  little  black  eyed  grifette,  who 
fold  prints  and  naftry.  in  a  flail  oppofUe  ;    and  the 


: 


CHAP.  VII.]  IN  FRANCE. 

hoftler  was  eternally  quarrelling  with  the  chef  de 
"  fine,  who  repelled  him  from  the  kitchen,  which,  in 
the  perfon  of  the  afliftant  cook,  a  plump,  rofy  Nor- 
man girl,  contained  all  the  treafure  of  his  foul — love 
and  negligence  reigned  throughout  the  houfehold. 
We  rang  the  bells,  and  facre  dieu'd,  but  all  in  vain, 
we  fuffered  great  inconvenience,  but  who  could  be  an- 
gry ?  In  the  courfe  of  our  walks,  and  converfations, 
with  the  workmen,  whom  we  met,  we  found  that 
moll  of  the  mafons,  and  gardeners  of  Rouen,  had 
fought  in  the  memorable,  bloody,  and  decifive  battle 
of  Marengo,  at  which  it  appears  that  a  great  part  of 
the  military  of  France,  within  four  or  five  hundred 
miles  of  the  capital,  were  prefent.  The  change  they 
prefented  was  worthy  of  obfervation  ;  we  faw  men 
fun-browned  in  campaigns,  and  enured  to  all  th*e  fe- 
rocity of  war,  at  the  found  of  peace  afiuming  all  the 
tranquil  habits  of  ingenious  induilry,  \  or  ruftic  fim- 
plicity.  Some  of  them  were  occupied  in  forming  the 
fhapelefs  (tone  into  graceful  embeliifliments  for  ele- 
gant houfes,  and  others  in  difpofing,  with  botanic 
tafte,  the  fragrant  parterre.  After  fpending  four 
very  delightful  days  in  this  agreeable  city,  I  bade 
adieu  to  my  very  worthy  companion,  captain  W. 

C -,  whofe  intention  it  was  to  fpend  fome  time 

here,  and  thofe  friends,  from  whom  I  had  received 
great  atttntion  and  hofpitalities,  and  wifhing  the 
amiable  Madame  P — ■ — ,  many  happy  years,  and  re- 


86  THE    STRANGER  CHAP.   VIII. 

ceiving  from  her  the  afiurances  of  civility,  about  fev- 
en  o'clock  in  the  evening  I  feated  myfelf  in  the  dili- 
gence for  Paris,  and  in  a  comfortable  corner  of  it,  af- 
ter we  had  paiTed  the  pave,  refigned  myfelf  to  fteep. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Early   dinner. — Manie. — Frojl. — Duke    de    jSW/y.— - 
Approach  the  Capital. —  'Norman   Barrier. — Paris, 

— -Hotel  de  Rouen. — Palais  RcyaL 

AT  day  break,  the  appearance  of  the  country  in 
all  directions  was  delightful.  The  faint  eaftern  blufh 
of  early  morn,  threw  a  mild,  refrefhing  light  over  the 
moift  and  dew-dripping  fcenery. 

The  fpirit  of  our  immortal  bard,  awaking  from  the 
bofom  of  nature,  feemed  to  exclaim — 


■Look  love,  what  envious  ftreaks 


Do  tacethe  fevering  clouds,  in  yor.dereaft  ; 
Night's  candles  are  burnt  out  ;  and  jocund  D3y 
Stands  tiptoe  on  the  mifty  mountain  tops. 

About  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  arrived  at 
Mante,  a  pi&urefcue  town,  built  upon  a  fertile  moun- 
tain, at  the  bafe  of  which  the  Seine  flowed  along  rip- 
pling againfl  its  many  iilands  of  beautiful  poplars. .  At 
this  hour,  upon  our  alighting  at  the  inn,  we  found  a . 
regular  dinner  ready,  confifting  of  foups,  meats,  fowls 


CttAP.  Vltt.]  IK  FRANCE.  87 

and  confectionary.  To  the  no  fmall  furprife  of  the 
holt,  I  exprefTed  a  wifh  to  have  fome  breakfaft,  and 
at  length,  after  much  difficulty,  procured  fome  cof- 
fee and  rolls. 

The  reft  of  the  party,  with  great  compofure,  tuck- 
ed their  napkins  in  the  buttonholes  of  their  waift- 
coats,  and  applied  themfelvcs  to  the  good  things  be- 
fore them,  with  very  active  addrefs. — "What  a  hap- 
py race  of  people  !  ready  for  every  thing,  and  at  all 
times  5  they  fcarcely  know  the  meaning  of  inconve- 
nience. 

In  the  midft  of  difficulty,  they  find  accommoda- 
tion j  with  them,  every  thing  feems  in  harmony. 
After  paying  thirty  fols  for  my  repaft,  a  charge  which 
announced  our  approach  to  the  capital,  I  walked  on, 
and  made  my  way  to  the  bridge  over  another  wind- 
ing of  the  Seine,  at  the  bottom  of  the  town  j  which 
is  a  light,  and  elegant  ftruclure.  The  houfes  along 
the  fides  of  the  river  are  handfome,  and  delightfully 
fituated.  The  principal  church  is  a  fine  gothic  build- 
ing, but  is  rapidly  haftening  to  decay  j  fome  of  its 
pinnacles  are  deftroyed,  and  all  its  windows  brok- 
en in. 

A  fmall  chapel,  in  the  ftreet  cppofite,  which  had 
an  appearance  of  confiderable  elegance,  was  convert- 
ed into  a  flaughter-houfe.  Embofomed  in  woods,  on 
the  other  fide  of  the  bridge,  is  a  fine  chateau,  former- 
ly belonging  to  the  count  d'Adhemar  ;  here,  while 
edjoying  the  enchanting  profpecl:  about  me,  I  heard 


THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.  VIII. 

the  jingling  approach  of  our  heavy  diligence,  in 
which,  having  refeated  myfelf,  we  proceeded  upon  a 
fine  high  road,  through  thick  rows  of  walnut,  cherry, 
mulberry,  and  apple  trees,  for  feveral  miles,  on  each 
fide  of  which,  were  vineyards,  upon  whofe  promis- 
ing vintage,  the  froft  had  committed  fad  devaftation. 

For  a  vaft  extent,  they  appeared  blackened  and 
burnt  up.  It  was  faid.  that  France  fuftained  a  lcfs  of 
two  millions  fterling,  by  thisunufual  vifitation. 

In  the  courfe  of  our  journey,  I  experienced  in  the 
conduct  of  one  of  our  two  female  companions,  an  oc- 
currence, allied  to  that,  which  is  related  by  Sterne, 
of  Madame  de  Rambcuillet,  by  which  he  very  juftly 
illuftrates  the  happy  eafe,  with  which  the  French  la- 
dies prevent  themfelves  from  ever  fuffering  by  in- 
convenient notions  of  delicr.cy. 

A  few  miles  from  Mante,  on  the  borders   of  the 
Seine,  we  pafTed  one  of  the  venerable  chateaus  of  the 
celebrated  duke  de  Sully,  the  faithful,  able,  and   up- 
right minifter,  of  Henry  IV.  of  France,  one  of  thole 
great  geniufes,  who  only  at  diftant  eras  of  time,   are 
permitted  to  fhine  out  amongft  the  race  of  men. 
Hiftorians  unite  in  obferving  that  the  duke   perform- 
ed all  the  duties  of  an  active    and'  upright  minifter, 
under  a  mailer,  who  exercifed  all  the  offices   of  a 
*  great  and  good  king  ;  after  whofe  unhappy  fate,  this 
excellent  man  retired  from  the  bufy  fcenes  of  the 
world,  and  covered  with  time  and  honors  expired  in 
the  eighty-fecond  year  of  his  age  in  the  year  1641,  at 


CHAP.  VIII.]  IN   FRANCE.  89 

his  caftle  of  Villebon.    The  houfe  is  plain,  and  large. 
The  grounds  are  difpofed  after  the  fafhion  of  ancient 

times. 

As  we  approached  the  capital,  the  country  looked 
very  rich  and  luxuriant.  We  patted  through  the 
foreft  of  St.  Germains,  where  there  is  a  noble  palace, 
built  upon  a  lofty  mountain..  The  foreft  abounds 
with  game,  and  formerly  afforded  the  delights  of  the 
chafe  to  the  royal  Nimrods  of  France.  Its  numerous 
green  alleys  are  between  two  and  three  miles  long, 
and  in  the  form  of  radii  unite  in  a  centre.  The  for- 
eft and  park  extend  to  the  barrier,  through  which, : 
we  immediately  entered  the  town  of  St.  -  Germains, 
diftant  from  Paris  about  twelve  miles  which  is  a  large 
and  populous  place,  and  in  former  periods,  during 
the  royal  refidence,  was  rich  and  flouriming,  but 
having  participated  in  the  bleffings  of  the  revolution, 
prefents  an  appearance  of  confiderable  poverty,  and 
fqualid  decay.  Here  we  changed  horfes  for  the  laft 
poft,  andran  down  a  fine,  broad  paved,  royal  road 
through  rows  of  ftately  elms,  upon  an  inclined  plane, 
until  the  diftant,  and  wide,  but  clear  difplay  of  majef- 
tic  domes,  awful  towers,  and  lofty  fpires,  informed  us 
that  we  approached  the  capital.  I  could  not  help 
comparing  them  with  their  cloud-capped  brethren  of 
London,  over  whofe.  dim-diicovered  heads,  a  float- 
ing mafs:  of  unhealthy  fmoke,  forever  fufpends  its 
heavy  length  of  gloom.  Our  carriage  flopped  at  the 
Norman  Barrier,  which  is  the  grand  entrance  to  Pa- 
ll £ 


90  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  VIIL 

ris,  and  here  prefents  a  magnificent  profpect  to  the 
eye.  The  barrier  is  formed  of  two  very  large,  and 
noble  military  ftone  lodges,  having  porticoes,  on  all 
fides,  fupported  by  mafty  doric  pillars.  Thefe 
buildings  were  given  to  the  nation,  by  the  national 
afTerobly  in  the  year*  1792,  and  are  Separated  from 
each  other,  by  a  range  of  iron  gates,  adorned  with 
republican  emblems.  Upon  a  gentle  declivity ; 
through  quadruple  rows  of  elms,  at  the  diftance  of 
a  mile  and  a  half,  the  gigantic  ftatues  of  la  Place  de 
la  Concorde  (ci-devant,  de  la  Revolution)  appear; 
beyond  which,  the  gardens,  and  the  palace  of  the 
'Thuilferies,  upon  the  centre  tower  of  which,  the  tri- 
coloured  flag  was  waving,  from  the  back  fcene  of 
this  fplendid  fpectacle.  Eefore  we  entered  la  Piute 
de  la  Concorde,  we  pafTed  on  each  fide  of  us,  the 
beautiful,  and  favorite  v^alks  of  the  Parifians3  called  lea 
Champs  Ely-fees,  and  afterwards,  on  our  left,  the  ele- 
gant palace  of  the  Garde-meuble  ;  where  we  entered 
the  flreets  of  Paris,  and  focn  afterwards  alighted  at 
the  bureau  of  the  diligences ;  from  which  place,  I 
took  a  fiacre  (a  hackney  coach)  and  about  fix  o'clock 
in  the  evening  prefented-myfelf  to  the  mijtrefs  of  the 
hotel  de  Rouen,  for  the  women  of  France  generally 
tranfa&  all  the  mafculine  duties  of  the  houfe.  To 
Hkis  hotel  I  was  recommended  by  Meflrs  G -,  up- 
on mentioning  whofe  name,  I  was  very  politely 
fhown  up  to  a  faite  of  pleafant  apartments,  confifling 
cf  an  anti-room,  bed-room,  and  dreffing-rcom,  the 


CHAP.  VIII.]  IN   FRANCE.  91 

two  latter  were  charmingly  fituated,  the  windows  of 
which,  looked  out  upon  an  agreeable  garden  belong- 
ing to  the  palace  of  Lou  rre.  For  thefe  rooms  I  paid 
the  moderate  price  of  three  livres  a  day.  Here,  af- 
ter enjoying  thofe  comforts  which  travellers  after 
long  journies,  require,  and  a  good  dinner  into  the 
bargain,  about  nine  o'clock  at  night  I  fallied  out  to 
the  Palais  Royal,  a  fuperb  palace  built  by  the  late 
duke  d'Orleans,  who,  when  he  was  erecting  it,  pub- 
licly boafted,  that  he  would  make  it  one  of  the  great- 
eft  brothels  in  Europe,  in  which  prediction  he  fuc- 
ceeded,  to  the  full  confummation  of  his  abominable 
wiflies.  This  palace  isfiow  the  property  of  the  na- 
tion. The  grand  entrance  is  from  the  Rue  St.  Hon- 
oroe,  a  long  ftreet,  fomething  refembling  thePiccadil- 
ly  of  London,  but  deftitute,  like  all  the  other  ftreets 
of  Paris,  of  that  ample  breadth,  and  paved  footway, 
for  the  accommodation,  of  pedeflrian  pafTengers, 
which  give  fuch  a  decided  fuperiority  to  the  ftreets  of 
the  capital  of  England.  After  palling  through  two 
noble  courts,  I  entered  the  piazza,  of  this  amazino- 
pile  ;  which  is  built  of  flone,  upon  arches,  fupported 
by  Corinthian  pilafters.  Its  form  is  an  oblong  fquare, 
with  gardens,  and  walks  in  the  centre.  The  whole 
is  confidered  to  be,  about  one  thoufand  four  hundred 
feet  long,  and  three  hundred  feet  broad.  The  fineft 
(hops  of  Paris  for  jewelry,  watches,  clocks,  mantau?. 


92  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  VIIL 

ttiakers,reftaurateurs,*  China  magazines,  &c.  form  the 
back  of  the  piazza,  which  on  all  the  fides  of  this  im- 
menfe  fabric,  affords  a  very  fine  promenade.  Thefe 
{hops  once  made  a  part  of  the  fpeculation,  of  their 
mercenary  and  abandoned  matter,  to  whom  they  each 
paid  a  rent  after  the  rate  of  two  or  three  hundred 
pounds  fterling  per  annum.  This  place  prefents  a 
fcene  of  profligate  voluptuoufnefs,  not  to  be  equalled 
upon  any  fpot  in  Europe.  Women  of  any  character 
are  almoft  afraid  to  appear  here  at  noon  d*y  ;  and  a 
flranger  would  conceive*  that  at  night,  he  faw  before 
him,  one  third  of  the  beauty  of  Paris. 

Under  the  roof  of  this  palace  are  two  theatres,  mu- 
feums  of  curiofities,  the  tribunate,  gaming  houfes, 
billiard  rooms,  buillotte  clubs,  bail  rooms,  &c.  all 
opening  into  the  gardens,  the  windows  of  which 
threw,  from  their  numerous  lamps,  and  luftres,  a 
ftream  of  gay  and  gaudy  light  upon  the  walks  below, 
and  afforded  the  appearance  of  a  vaft  illumination. 
At  the  bottom  was  a  large  pavilion,  finely  illuminated, 
in  which  were  groups  of  people  regaling  themfelves 
with  lemonade,  and  ices.  Upon  this  fpot,  in  the 
early  parts  of  the  revolution,  the  celebrated  Camille 
Defmoulins  ufed  to  declaim  againft  the  abufes  of  the 
old  government,  to  all  the  idle  and  difaffecled  of* 
:is.     It  is  faid  that  the  liveries  of  the  due  de  Or- 


* 


*   Rtflaurateur  is   now    univei'ally    ufed  inftead  of 
iraitcur*. 


CHAP.  IX.]  IN    FRANCE.  93 

leans  gave  birth  to  the  republican  colors,  which  ufed 
to  be  difplayed  in  the  hats  of  his  auditors,  who  in 
point  of  refpectability  refembled  the  motley  reformers 
of  Chalk  Farm.  From  the  caroufing  rooms  under 
ground,  the  ear  was  filled  with  the  founds  of  mufic, 
and  the  buzzing  of  crowds  $  in  fhort  fuch  a  fcene  of 
midnight  revelry  and  difiipation  I  never  before  be- 
held. 

Upon  my  return  to  my  hotel,  I  was  a  little  fur- 
prifed  to  find  the  ftreets  of  this  gay  city  fo  meanly 
lighted.  Lamps  placed  at  gloomy  diftances  from 
each  other,  fufpended  by  cords,  from  lofty  poles, 
furnifh  the  only  means  of  directing  the  footfteps  of 
the  nocturnal  wanderer. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

French  reception. — Voltaire. — Refiaurateur. — Confular 
Guard. — Muftc. — Venetian  Horfes. — Gates  of  the 
Palace. — Gardens  of  the  ThuUleris. — Statues.-— The 
faithful  Vafe. — The  Sabine  Pitlure. — Monfteur  Per* 
regaux. — Marquis  de  Ghqtelet. — Madame  Per egaux. 
— Beaux  and  Bells  of  Paris. 

I  FORGOT,  in  my  laft  chapter,  to  mention  that 
I  paid  for  my  place,  and  luggage  in  the  diligeij^t' 
from  Rouen  to  Paris,  a  diftance  of  ninety  miles,  twen- 
ty three  Hvres  and  eighteen  fols.  The  next  morn- 
ing after  my  arrival,  and  a  good  night's  repofe  in  a 


94t  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  IX. 

fopha  bed,  conflru&ed  after  the  French  fafhion, 
which  was  very  lofty,  and  handfome,  and  very  com- 
fortable, I  waited  upon  my  accomplifhed  friend, 
Madame  H— — ,  in  the  Rue  Florentine.  I  had 
the  honor  of*  knowing  her  when  in  England, 
from  very  early  years  ;  I  found  her  with  her  elegant 
and  accomplifhed  daughter,  in  a  fuite  of  large  rooms, 
very  handfomely  furnifhed  after  the  antique,  which 
gives  to  the  prefent  fafhionable  furniture  of  France, 
its  form  and  character.  Thefe  rooms  compofed  a 
floor  of  a  noble  ftone  built  houfe,  which  contained 
feveral  other  families  *,  fuch  is  the  cuftomary  mode 
of  being  lodged  in  the  capital.  -She  received  me  in 
the  moil  charming  manner,  and  had  expected  me 
for  fome  days,  previous  to  my  arrival,  and  was  that 
evening  going  to  her  country  houfe  at  PafTi,  a  few 
miles  from  Paris,  whither  fhe  prefTed  me  to  accom- 
pany her,  but  I  declined  it,  on  account  of  the  ihort 
time  which  I  had  before  me  to  fpend  in  Paris. 
Madame  H was  not  only  a  beauty,  but  a  wo- 
man of  wit  and  learning,  and  had  accordingly  admit- 
ted Voltaire  amongil  the  number  of  her  houfehold 
gods  *,  the  arch  old  cynic,  with  his  deathlike  farcaftic 
face,  admirably  reprefented,  by  a  fmall  whole  length 
porcelain  ftatue,  occupied  the  centre  of  her  chimney 
piece.  Upon  finding  that  I  was  difpofed  to  remain 
in  town,  Hie  recommended  me  to  a  reftaurateur,  in 
the  gardens  of  the  Thuilleries,  one  of  the  £rft  eating 
houfes  in  Paris,  for  fociety,  aod  entertainment,  to  the 


CHAP.   IX-]  IN  FRANCE.  9$ 

mailer  of  which  {he  fent  her  fervant,  with  my  name, 
to  inform  him,  £he  had  recommended  an  Englifti 
gentleman  of  her  acquaintance  to  his  houfe,  and  re- 
queued that  an  Englifh  fervant  in  his  fervice  might 
attend  to  me,  when  I  dined  there.  This  was  a  little 
valuable  civility,  truly  French.  This  houfe  has  been 
lately  built  under  the  aufpices  of  the  firft  conful,  from 
a  defign  approved  by  his  own  exquifite  tafte  •,  he  has 
permitted  the  entrance  to  open  into  the  gardens  of 
the  confular  palace.  The  whole  is  from  a  model  of 
one  of  the  little  palaces  of  the  Herculaneum,  it  is 
upon  a  fmall  fcale,  built  of  a  fine  white  Rone,  it  con- 
tains a  centre,  with  a  portico,  fupported  by  doric 
pillars^  and  two  long  wings.  The  front  is  upon  the 
terrace  of  the  gardens,  and  commands  an  enchanting 
view  of  all  its  beautiful  walks  and  ftatues.  On  the 
ground  floor,  the  houfe  is  divided  into  three  long  and 
fpacious  apartments,  opening  into  each  other  through 
centre  arches,  and  which  are  redoubled  upon  the 
view*  by  immenfe  pier  glafles  at  each  end.  The 
.firft  room  is  for  dinner  parties,  the  next  for  ices,  and 
the  third  for  coffee.  In  the  middle  is  a  flying  ftair- 
cafe,  lined  on  each  fide  with  orange  trees,  which  af- 
cends  into  a  fuite  of  upper  rooms,  all  of  which  are 
admirably  painted  after  the  tafte  of  Herculaneum, 
and  are  almoft  lined  with  coftly  pier  glafses. 

My  fair  countrywomen  would  perhaps  be  a  little 
fiirprifed  to  be. told,  that  elegant  women,  of  the  firft 
reliability,  fuperbly  .dreifed  -for  the  promenade. 


96  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  IX, 

dine  here  with  their  friends  in  the  public  room,  a 
cuftom  which  renders  the  fcene  delightful,  and  re- 
moves from  it  the  accuftomed  impreffions  of  grofihefs. 
Upon  entering,  the  gueft  is  prefented  with  a  dinner 
chart,  handfomely  printed,  enumerating  the  different 
difhes  provided  for  that  day,  with  their  refpective 
prices  affixed.  All  the  people  who  frequent  this 
place  are  considered  highly  refpec~table.  The  viiitor 
is  furnifhed  with  ice  for  his  water  decanters,  with 
the  beft  attendance  at  dinner,  and  with*  all  the  Eng- 
lifh  and  foreign  newfpapers.  I  always  dined  here 
when  I  was  not  engaged.  After  parting  from  Mad- 
ame H ,  who  intended  returning  to  town  the 

next  day,  I  went  to  fee  the  confular  guard  relieved 
at  the  Thuilleries.  About  five  companies  of  this 
diftinguifhed  regiment  affemble  in  the  gardens,  ex- 
actly at  five  minutes  before  twelve  o'clock,  and  pre- 
ceded by  their  fine  band  of  mufic  march  through  the 
hall  of  the  palace,  and  form  the  line  in  the  grand 
court  yard  before  it,  where  they  are  joined  by  a 
fquadron  of  horfe.  Their  uniform  is  blue,  with 
broad   white  facings. 

The  confular  guard  were  in  a  little  difgrace,  an<& 
were  not  permitted  to  do  the  entire  duty  of  the  pal- 
ace at  this  time,  nor  during  feveral  fucceeding  days, 
|  as  amarkofthefirft  confute  difplesifure,  which  had 
been  excited  by  fome  unguarded  expreflion  of  the 
common  men,  refpe&ing  his  conduct,  and  which,  to 
the  jealous  ear  of  a  new  created  ami  untried  auihori- 


CHAP.  IX  ]  IN  PRANCE.  97 

ty,  founded  like  the  tone  of  difaffe&ion.  Only  the 
cavalry  were  allowed  to  mount  guard,  the  infantry 
were,^  provisionally,  fuperceded  by  a  detachment 
from  a  fine  regiment  of  hufTars.  On  account  of  the 
fhortnefs  of  this  parade,  which  is  always  difmiflfed 
precifely  at  ten  minutes  paft  twelve  o'clock,  it  is  not 
much  attended.  The  band  is  very  fine,  they  had  a 
Turkifh  military  inftrument,  which  I  never  heard 
before,  and  was  ufed  inftead  of  triangles.  It  was  in 
the  fhape  of  four  canopies,  like  the  roofs  of  Chinefe 
temples,  one  above  another,  leflening  as  they  afcend- 
ed,  made  of  thin  plates  of  brafs,  and  fringed  with  very 
little  brafs  bells,  it  was  fupported  by  a  Aiding  rod 
which  dropped  into  a  handle,  out  of  which,  when  it 
was  intended  to  be  founded,  it  was  fuddenly  jerked 
by  the  mufieian,  and  produced  a  good  effect  with  the 
other  inftruments.  The  tambour  major  is  remark- 
ed for  his  noble  appearance,  and  for  the  proportions 
-of  his  perfon,  which  is  very  handfome  :  his  fall  drefs 
uniform  on  the  grand  parade  is  the  moft  fpiendid 
thing,  I  ever  beheld.  The  corps  cf  pioneers  who 
precede  the  regiment,  have  a  fingular  appearance. 
Thefe  men  are  rather  above  fix  feet  high,  and  propor- 
tionably  made,  they  wear  fierce  muftachlos,  and 
long  black  beards,  Jofcy  bea  ps,  broad   white 

leathern  aprons,  which  almofl  touch  their  chins,  r.iid 
over  their  fhoulders  carry  enormous  hatchets.   Their 
ftrange  coflume  feemed  to  unite  the  dlfiimihr  char- 
I 


S3  TttE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  IX. 

a&ers  of  high  prieft,  and  warrior.     They  looked  like 
military  magi.     The  common  men  made  a  very  mar- 
tial appearance.     Their  officers  wore  EnglhV  riding 
boots,  which  had  an  unmilitary  effect.     Paris  at  pref- 
ent  exhibits  all  the  appearances  of  a  city  in  a  ftate  of 
fiege.     The  confular  palace  refembles  a  line  of  mag- 
nificent barracks,  at  the  balconies,  and  upon  the  ter- 
races of  which,  foldiers  are  every  where  to  be  feen 
lounging.     This  palace  is  partitioned  between  the 
£rfl  and  fecond  confuls,  the  third  principal  magiftrate 
refides  in  a  palace  near  the  Louvre,   oppofite  to  the 
Thuilleriet.     The  four  coloffal  brazen  horfes,  called 
the  Venetian  horfes,  which  have  been  brought  from 
Venice,  are  mounted  upon  lofty  pedefhls,  on  each 
fide  of  the  gates  of  the  grand  court  yard  of  the  pal- 
ace.    When  the  Roman  emperor  Conftantine  found- 
ed Conftantinople,  he  attached  thefe  exquifite  ftatues 
to  the  chariot  of  the  Sun  in  the  hippodromus,  or  cir-  * 
cus,  and  when  that  capital  was  taken  poffeffion  of  by 
the  Venetian  and  French  crufading  armies,  in  1206, 
the  Venetians  obtained  poffeflion  of  them,  amongft 
many  other  ineltimable  curiofities,  and  placed  thefe 
horfes  in  four  niches  over  the  great  door  of  the 
church  of  St.  Marco.     Refpedling  their  previous  hif- 
tory,    authors  very  much  differ  ;    fome  affert  that 
they  were  caft  by  the  great  {latuary  Lyfippus,  in  Al- 
exander's time,  others  that  they  were  raifed  over  the 
triumphal  arch  of  Aiiguftus,   others   of  Nero,  an 


CHAP.  IX. J  IN  PRANCE.  09 

thence  remove  to  the  triumphal  arch  of  Conftantine^ 
from  which  he  carried  them  to  his  own  capital. 

They  are  faid  to  be  compofed  of  bronze  and  gold, 
which  much  refembles  the  famous  composition  of 
the  Corinthian  brafs.  .  Although  thefe  ftatues  are  of 
an  enormous  fize,  they  are  too  diminutive  for  the 
vail  pile  of  building  which  thtfy  adorn.  The  fame 
remark  applies  to  the  entrance  gates,  of  mafty  iron, 
which  have  juft  been  raifed  by  the  directions  of  the 
ilrfb  conful.  The  trlcolored  flag,  mounted  upon  the 
centre  dome  of  the  palace,  is  alfo  too  fmall.  From 
the  court  yard  I  entered  the  gardens,  which  are  very 
beautiful,  and  about  feven  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
form  one  of  the  favorite  and  fafhionable  walks  of  the 
Parhlans.  They  are  difpofed  in  regular  promenades, 
in  which  are  many  fine  caj|$  from  the  ancient  flat- 
ue,  which  adorn  the  hall  of  antiques,  and  orl  eaclr 
fide,  are  noble  orange  trees,  which  grow  in  vaft  move- 
able cafes  5  many  of  thefe  exotics  are  twenty  feet 
high.  Until  lately  many  of  the  antiques  were  plac- 
ed here,  but  Bonaparte,  with  his  accuilcmed  judg- 
ment and  veneration  for  the  arts,  has  had  them  re- 
moved into  the  grand  national  collection,  and  has  fup- 
plied  their  places  by  thefe  beautiful  copies,  amongft 
which  I  particularly  diftinguilhed  thofe  of  Hippoma- 
nes,  and  Atalanta,  for  the  beauty  of  their  propor- 
tions, and  the  exquifite  elucidation  of  their  ftory. 
Here  are  alfo  feme  fine  bahns  of  water,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  which  are  jets  d'eau.     The  gravel  walks  of  the 


100  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XI. 

gardens  are  watered  every  morning  in  hot  weather, 
and  centinels  are  ftationed  at  every  avenue,  to  pre- 
ferve  order  :  no  perfon  is  admitted  who  is  the  carrier 
of  a  parcel,  however  fmall.     Here  are  groups  of  peo- 
ple to  be  feen,  every  morning,  reading  the  prints    of 
the  day,  in  the  refrefhing  coolnef's  of  the  fhadc.    For 
the  ufe  of  a  chair  in  the  gardens,  of  which  there  are 
fome  hundreds,  the  proprietor  is  thankful  for  the 
fmalleft  coin  of  the  republic.     At  the  bottom  of  the 
jfteps,  leading  to  the  terrace,  in  front   of  the   palace, 
are  fome  beautiful  vafes,  of  an  immenfe  fize,  which 
are  raifed  about  .twelve  feet    from  the   ground  :  in 
one  of  them,  which  was  pointed  out  to  me,    an   un- 
popular and  perfecuted  Parilian  faved   nearly  all  his 
property,  during  the  revolution.     A  fhort  time  be- 
fore the  maflkre  of  the  10th  of  Auguft,  1792,  when 
the  domiciliary  vifits  became  frequent  and  keen,  this 
man  during  a  dark  night,   ftole,  unobferved    by  the 
guards,  into  the  garden,  with  a  bag  under  his    arm, 
containing  aimoft  all  his  treafure  ;  he  made  his  way 
to  the  vafe,  which,  from  the  palace,  is  on  the  right 
hand,  next  to  the  FeuilJans,  and  after  fome  difficulty, 
; •ornmitted  the  whole  to  the  capacious  bofom    of  the 
faitfcfitl  depository  :  this  done,  he  retreated  in   fafe- 
and  when  the  time  of  terror  was  paffed,  fearful 
f\lat  he  mould  not  be  able  to  raife  his  bag  from  the 
deep  bottom  of  the  urn  without   a  difcovery,  which 
might  have  rendered  the  circumftance  fufpicious,  and 
perhaps  hazardous  to  him,  he  prefented  himielf  be- 


n 

CHAP.  IX.]  IN   FRANCE.  1Q1 

fore  the  minifter  of  the  police,  verified  the  narrative 
of  the  facts,  and  was  placed  in  the  quiet  porTeflion  of 
his  property,  which  in  this  manner  had  remained  un- 
diflurbed  during  all  that  frightful  period.  From  the  . 
gardens  I  went  to  the  exhibition  of  Davids  celebrat- 
ed painting  of  the  fufpennon  of  the  battle  between 
the  Sabines  and  the  Romans,  produced  by  the  wives 
of  the  latter  rufhing,  with  their  children  in  their 
arms,  between  the  contending  warriors.  David  is 
defervedly  confideredas  the  firft  living  artift  in  France., 
and  this  fplendid  picture  is  worthy  of  his  pencil.  It 
is  upon  an  immenfe  fcale.  Ail  the  Figures  (of  which 
there  are  many)  are  as  large  as  life.  The  principal 
female  raifing  her  terrified  infant,  and  the  two  chief 
combatants,  are  inimitable.  I  was  informed,  by 
good  authority,  that  the  court  of  Ruffia  had  offered 
7000/.  iterling  for  it,  an  unexampled  price  for  any 
modern  painting  !  but  that  David,  who  is  very  rich 
felt  a  reluctance  in  parting  with  it,  to  the  emperor, , 
on  account  of  the  climate  cf  Ruffia  being  unfavora- 
ble to  color.  - 

From  this  beautiful  painting,  I  went  to  paymy  re~ 

fpefts  to  Mons.  O ,  who  refided  at  the  other  end 

of  Paris,  upon  whom  I  had  a  letter  of  credit.      Upon 
my  arriving  at  his  hotel,  I  was  informed  by  the  por- 
ter that  his  matter  was  at  his  chateau,  about  ten  miles 
in  the  country,  with  his  family,   where  he  lay  ex- 
tremely ill.     This  news  rendered  it  necefFary  for  me- » 
to  leave  Paris  for  a  day  and  night  at  leait, 


w 

102  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  IX. 

¥rom  Moris.  O I  went  to  Mr.  Perregaux,  the 

rich  banker  and  legiilator,  to  whom  I  had  letters  of 
introduction.  He  lives  in  the  Rue  Mont  Blanc,  a 
ftreet,  the  place  of  refidence  of  the  principal  bank- 
ers, and  is  next  door  neighbor  to  his  rival  Mons, 
R         ,  whofe  lady  has  occasioned  fome  little  conver- 

fation.     Mons.  P 's  hotel  is    very  fuperb.      His 

chief  clerks  occupy  rooms  elegantly  fitted  up,  and 
decorated  with  fine  paintings.  He  received  me  in  a 
very  handfome  manner,  in  a  beautiful  little  cabinet, 
adorned  with  fome  excellent  and  coftly  paintings. 
After  many  polite  expreffions  from  him,  I  laughing- 
ly informed  him  of  the  dilemma  in  which  I  was  plac- 
ed by  the  unexpected  abfence  of  Mons  O \  up- 
on which  Mons.  P in  the  mod  friendly   manner 

told  me  that  the  letters  which  I  had  brought  were 
from  perfons  whom  he   highly  efteemed  ;  and  that 

Mons.  O— was   aWb  bis  friend  j    that  as  it  might 

prove  inconvenient  for  me  to- wait  upon  him  in  the 
country,  he  begged  to  have  the  pleafure  of  furnifh- 
ing  me  with  whatever  money  I  wanted,  upon  my 
own  draughts.  I  felt  this  act  of  polkenefs  and  liber- 
ality very  forcibly,  which  I  of  courfe  declined,  as  I 
wifhed  only  to  take  up  what  money  I  wanted  in  a 
regular  manner,  but  I  was  defirous  of  feeing  Mons. 

If) ,  who  was  reprefented  to  me  as  a  very  amiable 

man,  and  his  family  as  elegant  and  accomplifhed.  I 
was  much  charmed  with  the  generous  conduct  of 
Mons,  P-~~,  from  whom  I  afterwards  received  great 


i 


CHAP.  IX.]  IN  FRANCE.  104 

attentions,  and  who  is  much  beloved  by  th  e  Englifh. 
I  felt  it  a  pleafurable  duty  not  to  confine  the  knowl- 
edge of  fuch  an  act  of  liberality  to  the  fpot  where  it 
was  fa  handfomely  manifefted.  The  feffions  of  the 
legislative  afTembly  had  clofed  the  day  before  my  ar- 
rival, a  circumftance  I  much  regretted,  as  through 
his  means  I  mould  have  been  enabled  to  have  attend- 
ed their  fittings.  The  bankers  of  France  are  ina- 
menfely  rich,  and  almoft  command  the  treafury  of 
the  nation.  Mons.  P ,  with  the  well-timed)  an- 
ient fubmiffion  of  the  flexible  reed,  in  the  fable,  has 
furvived  the  revolutionary  florm,  which  by  a  good, 
but  guiltlefs  policy,  has  paned  over  him,  without 
leaving  one  ftain  upon  his  honorable  character,  and 
has  operated,  like  the  flime  of  the  Egyptian  inunda- 
tion, only  to  fructify,  and  increafe  his  fortunes.  He 
once  however  narrowly  efcaped,  In  the  time  of  Ro- 
beipierre,  the  Marquis  de  Chatelet,  a  few  nights  be- 
fore his  execution,  attempted  to  corrupt  his  guards, 
and  told  them,  if  they  would   releafe  him,  Mons. 

P would  give  them  a  draft  to  any  amount  which 

they  might  choofe  then  to  name,  The  centinels  re- 
jected the  bribe,  and  informed  their  fanguinary  em- 
ployer of  the   offer,,  who   had  the  books  of  Mons. 

P invefligated  :  he  was  in  no  fhape   concerned 

in  the  attempted  efcape  •,  but  hearing,  with  extraor- 
dinary fwiftnefs,  that-  the  marquis,  whofe  banker  he 
had  been,  and  to  whom  an  inconflderable  balance 
was  th.QXi  due,  had  implicated  him  in  this  manner^  ha 


104  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XI. 


inftantly  with  dexterity,  removed  the  page  which 
contained  the  laft  account  of  the  unhappy  noblemen, 
and  alfo  his  own  deftiny,  and  thus  faved  his  life. 

Mons.  P is  a  widower ;    his  daughter,  an  only 

child,  is  married  to  a  wealthy  general,  a  man  of  great 
bravery,  and  beloved  by  Bonaparte. 

I  dined  this  day  at  the  Reftaurateur's  in  the  Thu- 

illeries,  and  found  the  eiFedt  of  Madame  H 's 

charming  civility  to  me.  There  were  fome  beautiful 
women  prefent,  dreiTed  after  the  antique,  a*  fafhion 
fuccefsfuily  introduced  by  David.  This  extraordi- 
nary genius  was  defirous  of  drefling  the  beaux  of 
Paris  after  the  fame  model  ^  but  they  politely  declin- 
ed it,  alledging  that  if  Mons.  David  would  at  the 
fame  time  create  another  climate,  warmer  and  more 
regular  for  them,  they  would  then  fubmit  the  mas- 
ter to  a  committee  of  fafhion.  The  women,  though 
faid,  in  point  of  corporeal  fufferance,  to  be  able  to 
endure  lefs  than  men,  were  enchanted  with  the  de- 
fign  of  the  artift,  and  without  approaching  a  angle 
degree  nearer  to  the  fun,  unmindful  of  colds,  con- 
sumptions, and  death,  have  affumed  a  drefs,  if  fuch 
it  can  be  called,  the  airlnefs  of  which  to  the  eye  of 
fancy,  looked  like  the  mift  of  incenfe,  undulating 
over  a  difplay  of  beauty  and  fymmetry,  only  to  be  ri- 
i&Valled  by  thofe  exquifite  models  of  Grecian  tafte 
which  fir  ft  furnished  them  with  tbefe  new  ideas  of 
perfonal  decoration, . 


CHAP.  XI.]  Itt    FRANCE.  J 05 

The  French  ladies  every  morning  anoint  their 
heads  with  the  antique  oil,  fcented  •,  their  fidelocks 
are  formed  into  fmall  circles,  which  juft  touch  the 
bofom  ;  and  the  hair  behind  is  rolled  into  a  rofe,  by 
which  they  produce  a  perfect  copy  of  the  ancient 
buft. 

CHAPTER  X. 

Large  Dogs. — A  Plan  for  becoming  quickly  acquainted 
ivith  Paris. — Pantheon. — -Tombs  of  Voltaire  and 
Roujfeau. — Politenefs  of  an  Emigrant. — The  Beauty 
cf  France. — Beauty  evanefcent. — Place  de  Caroufel. 
— Infernal  Machine. — Fauche. — Seine.— W after- 
nvomen. — Fifhwomen. — Baths. 

IN  the  ftreets  of  Pane.  T  every  where  faw  an  unuf- 
ual  number  of  very  large,  fierce  looking  dogs,  par- 
taking of  the  breed  of  the  Newfoundland,  and  Brit- 
ifh  bulldog.  During  the  time  of  terror,  thefe  brave 
and  faithful  animals  were  in  much  requeft,  and  are 
faid  to  have  given  the  alarm  of  danger,  and  faved,  in 
feveralinftances,  the  lives  and  property  of  their  ma£« 
ters,  by  their  accuftomed  fidelity.  Upon  my  arrival 
in  this  great  capital,  I  was  of  courfe  defirous  of  be- 
coming acquainted  with  its  leading  features  as  fcon 
.as  poffible,  for  the  purpofe  of  being  enabled  to  ex- 
plore my  way  to  any  part  of  it,  without  a  guide. 
The  fcheme  which  I  thought  of,  for  this  purpofe,  an* 


THE   STRANGEB.  [CHAP.  X. 

my  wijthes,  and  therefore  I  may  prefume   to 
fubmit  jit  to  others* 

On  the  fecond  day  after  my  arrival,  I  purchafed.a 
map  of  Paris,  hired  a  ftacre,.and  drove  to  the  Pan- 
theon, Upon  the  top  galiery  which  furmcunts  its 
lofty  and  magnificent  dome,  I  made  a  furvey  of  the 
city,  which  lay  below  me,  like  the  chart  with  which 
which  I  compared  it.  The  clouds  paiTed  fwiftly  ov- 
er my  head,  and  from  the  fhape  of  the  dome,  im- 
prefTed  me  w.:th  an  idea  of  moving  in  the  air  upon 
the  top,  inftead  of  the  bottom  of  a  balloon.  I  eanly 
attained  ray  object  by  tracing  the  churches,  the  tem- 
ple, the  abbey,  the  palaces,  large  buildings,  and  the 
courfe  and  inands  of  the  river,  after  which  I  feidom 
had  occasion  to  retrace  my  fteps,  when  I  was  roving 
about,  unaccompanied.  On  account  of  no  cord  be- 
ing ufed.  in  Paris,  the  profbec~r.  was  perfectly  clear, 
ana  tne  air  is  confequently  falubiious.  The  Panthe- 
on, or  church  of  St.  Genevieve,  is  a  magnificent 
building  from  the  deiigns  of  Mons.  Scuffiet,  one  of 
the  firft  architects  of  France  ;  it  was  intended  to  be 
the  rival  of  the  St.  Paul's  of  London  -,  but,  though  a 
very  noble  edifice,  it  muft  fail  of  exciting  any  emo- 
tions of  jealoufy  amongft  the  admirers  of  that  na- 
tional building.  It  is  a  magnificent  pile,  and  when 
completed,  is  deftined  to  be  the  principal  place  of 
worfhip,  and  is  at  prefent  the  maufoleum  of  the  de- 
ceafed  great  men  of  France.  Upon  the  entablature 
over  the  portico  is  written,  in  immenfe  characters,. 


CHAP.  X.]  IN   FRANCE.  iO? 

«  AUX   GRANDS   KOMMES — LA    PARTRIE  RECONNOI- 

sante."     Parallel  with  the  grand  entrance,  are  co- 
loffal  ftatues,  reprefenting  the  virtues   imputed  to  a 
republic.     Soon  after  the   completion  of  the  inner 
dome,  about  two  years  iince,  one   of  the  main  fup- 
porting  pillars  was  crumed  in  feveral  places  by  the 
prerTure.     The  defective  column  has  been  removed, 
and  until  it  can  be  replaced,  its  proportions  of  weight 
is  fuftained  by  a  moil  'ingenious  and    complicated 
wooden  ftructure.     Upon  the  foot  where  the  altar  is 
to  be  erected,  I  few  another  goddefs  of  liberty,  with 
her  ufual  appendages  carved  in  wood,  and   painted, 
and  railed  by  the  order  of  Robefpierre,  for  a  grand 
revolutionary  fete,  which  he  intended  to  have  given, 
in  this  church  upon  the  very  day   in  which  he  per- 
ifhed.     The  interior  dome  is  covered  with  two  large 
■ones,  each  of  which  is  fupported  by  feparate  pillars, 
and  pilafter  s,  and  the  whole  is  conftructed  of  ftone 
only.     The  interior  of  the  lower  dome  is   covered 
with  the  mofl  beautiful  carvings  in  Stone.     The  per- 
iftyle,  or  circular  colonnade  round -the  lower  part  of 
the  exterior  dome,  is  very  fine,  but  I  muft  confefs,  I 
do  not  like  an  ancient  fafhion  which  the  French  have 
juft  revived  in  their  construction  of  thefe  pillars,  of 
making  the  thicker!:  part  of  the  column  a  little  below 
the  centre,  and  lefTening  in  fize  to  the  bafe.     Under 
this  immenfe  fabric  are  fpacious  vaults,  well  lighted  \ 
fupported  by  doric  pillars,  the  depofitaries  of  the  il- 
iuftrious  dead  of  France.     At  prefent  there  are  only 


108  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  X 

fcvo  perfonages  whofe  labors  are  honored  with  this 
gloomy  distinction.  RoufTeau  and  Voltaire  very 
quietly  repofe  by  the  fide  of  each  other.  Their  re- 
mains are  contained  in  two  feparate  tombs,  which  are 
conftru&ed  of  wood,  and  are  embellifhed  with  vari- 
ious  infcriptions.  Hamlet's  remark  over  the  grave 
of  Ophelia,  ftrongly  occurred  to  me. 

"  Where  be  your  gibes  now  ?  your  gambols  ? 
"  your  fongs  ?  your  ftaflies  of  merriment   that  were 

*  wont  to  fet  the  table  on  a  roar  ?  not  one  now  to 

*  mock  your  own  grinning  ?  quite  chap-fallen  ?" 
At  either  end  of  the  tomb  of  Jean   Jacques,  are 

two  hands,  darting  out  of  the  gates  of  death,  fupport- 
ing  lighted  torches,  and  below,  (it  is  a  little  fingular) 
are  infcriptions  illuftrating  the  peaceful,  and  benevo- 
lent virtues  of  the  enclofed  defunct. 

Peace  to  their  manes  !  may  they  enjoy  more  repofe, 
than  that  troubled  world  which  their  extraordinary, 
yet  different  talents  feemed  equally  deftined  to  embel- 
li/h  and  to  embroil,  though  it  would  be  difficult  to 
name  any  two  modern  writers,  who  have  exprefied, 
with  more  eloquence,  a  cordial  love  of  peace,  and  a 
zealous  defire  to  promote  the  interefts  of  humanity  !  ! 

The  church  of  St.  Genevieve  is  entirely  compofed 
of  {tone  and  iron,  of  the  latter  very  little  is  ufed.  It 
has  already  coft  the  nation  very  near  two  millions 
fterling.  As  I  was  returning  from  the  Pantheon,  I 
was  addreffed  by  one  of  our  emigrant  companions,  to 
whom  I  have  before  alludedt    He  had  juft  arrived  in 


CHAP.  X.]  IN   FRANCE.  109 

Paris,  intended  fraying  about  a  month,  and  then  re- 
turning to  Toulon.  He  warmly  made  me  an  offer 
of  his  fervices,  and  during  my  ftay  here,  fent  every 
morning  to  know  if  he  mould  attend  me  as  a  friendly 
guide,  to  conduct  me  to  any  place  which  I  might 
wifh  to  fee,  or  to  prevent  me  from  fuffering  any  im- 
position from  tradefmen.  His  attentions  to  me  ivere 
always  agreeable,  and  fometimes  ferviceab,le,  and 
ftrongly  imprefTed  upon  my  mind,  the  policy,  as  well 
as  the  pleafurc,  of  treating  every  being  with  civility, 
even  where  firit.  appearances  are  not  favorable,  and 
where  an  expectation  of  meeting  the  party  again  is 
not  probable.  In  the  courfe  of  the  day  I  was  intro- 
duced to  Madame  B ,  who  refides,  by  permiffion 

of  the  firft  conful,  in  a  fuite  of  elegant  apartments  in 
the  Louvre,  which  have  been  granted  to  her  on  ac- 
count of  her  merits  and  genius,  and  aifo  in  confi der- 
ation oftheloffes  which  me  has  fuitamed  by  the' 
revolution.     In  her  ftudy  flie  prefented  me  to  Mad- 

emoifelle  T ,  the  then  celebrated  beauty  of  Paris  ; 

her  portrait  by  David,  had  afforded  much  conversa- 
tion in  the  fafhionable  circles  ;  me  was  then  copying, 
with  great  tafte,  from  the  antique,  which  is  generally 
the  morning's  occupation  of  the  French  ladies  of 
fafhion.  She  is  certainly  a  very  handfome  young 
woman  :  but  I  think  if  the  painter  of  France  was  to 
vifit  a  certain  weftern  county  of  England,  he  would 
difcover  as  many  attractions  for  the  difplay  of  iiis  ad- 
& 


HO  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.    X. 

fiftrabls  pencil,  as  were  at  this  time  to  be  found  in  the 
ftudy  of  Madame  B .  When  we  left  her,  Mad- 
ame B afked  me  what  I  thought  of  her  ;  I  can- 
didly made  the  above  remark  to  her,  «  Ah  !"  faid  Ihe, 
"  you  fhould  have  feen  her  about  a  month  fince,  fhe 
te  was  then  the  prettiefl  creature  in  all  France  •"  how 
w  lo,  has  fhe  fuffered  from  indifpofition  ?  oh  no  repli- 

iC  ed  Madame  B -,  fmilingly,    "  but  a  mc7ith>  you 

*  know,  makes  a  confiderable  difference  upon  the  face 
«  of  beauty." 

I  was  much   obliged  to   Madame    B ,  for  the 

remark,  which  is  greatly  within  an  cbfervation  which 
I  frequently  made,  en  the  evanefcent  nature  of  youth- 
ful beauty.      Madame  B 's   calculations   of  the 

given  progrefs  of  decay,  were  eighteen  times  more 
fwift  than  mine.  The  fubjec~t  of  our  converfation, 
and  the  bufts  by  which  we  were  farrcunded,  natur- 
ally led  us  to  talk  of  the  French  ladies,  and  they  re- 
minded us,   though  /tightly,   of  their  prefent   drefs. 

Madame  B ,  entered  into  a  particular  account  pf 

the  decorations  of  a  lady  of  fafhion  in  France.  I 
have  not  patience  enough  to  enumerate  them  here, 
except  that  the  wife  of  a  fouraifietir  will  not  hefitate 
paying  from  three  to  four  hundred  pounds  for  a  Ca- 
chemire  fhawi,  nor  from  four  to  five  hundred  pounds 
for  a  laced  gown,  nor  a  much  larger  fum  for  diamonds 
cut  like  pearls,  and  threaded.  In  this  coftly  man- 
ner, does  the  ingenuity  of  art,  and  the  prodigality  of 
wealth  do  homage  to  the.  elegance  of  nature.     The 


CHAP.  X.]  IN  FRANCE,  111 

entrance  to  Madame  B — — 's  apartments  Teemed  at 
firft)  a  little  fingular  and  unfuitable,  but  I  fcon  found 
that  it  was  no  miufual  circurnftance,  after  grouping 
through  dirty  paffages,  and  up  filthy  ftaircafes  to  en* 
ter  a  noble  hall  and  fplendid  rooms. 

Upon  leaving  Madame  E ,  I  pafled  the  Place 

de  Caroufel,  and  faw  the  ruins  of  the  houfes    which 
faffered  by  the  explofion  of  the  infernal  machine, 
which  afforded  fo  much  converfation  in  the  world  at 
the  time,  by  which  the  firft  conful  was  intended  to 
have  been  deftroyed  in  his  way  to  the  National  Xnfti- 
tute  of  Muiic.   This  affair  has  been  fomewhat  involved 
in  myftery.     It   is  now  well  known  that  Monsieur 
Fauche,  at  the  head  of  the  police,  was  acquainted 
with  this  conspiracy  from  its  firft  conception,  and  by 
his  vigilant  agents,  was  informed  of  the  daily  progrefs 
made  in  the  confrruclion  of  this   deftructive  inftru- 
ment,  of  the  plan  o^  which  he  had  even  a  copy. 
The  confpirators  proceeded  with  perfect  confidence, 
and  as  they  thought  with  perfect  fecurity.     Three 
•days  before  it  was  quite  completed,  and  ready  for  its. 
fell  purpofe,  from  fome  furprife  or  dread  of  detection, 
they  changed  their  place  of  meeting,  and  in  one  night 
removed  the  machine  from  the  fpot  where  it  had 
been  uiually  depofited.     The  penetrating  eye  of  the 
police  loft  fight  of  them.     Fauche  and  his  followers 
exercifed  their  unrivalled  talents  for  purfmt  and  dis- 
covery to  no  purpofe.     The  baffled  minifter  then 
waited  upon  Bonaparte,  to  whom  he  had  regularly  im~ 


112  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  X. 

pitted  the  refult  of  every  day's  information  refpeet- 
ing  it,  and  told  him  that  he  could  no  longer  trace  the 
traitorous  inftrument  of  his  affamnation,  and  requeu- 
ed him  as  he  knew  it  mult  be  completed  by  this  time, 
not  to  go  to  any  public  places,  until  he  had  regained  a 
knowledge  of  it.     Bonaparte  replied,  that  fear  only 
made  cowards,  and  confpirators  brave,  and  that  he 
Lad  unalterably  determined  to  go  with  his  accuftom- 
ed  equipage  to  the  National  Concert  that  very  even- 
ing.    At  the  ufual  hour  the  firft  conful  let  off  undis- 
mayed from  the  Thuiileries  •,  a  defcription  of  the  ma- 
chine, which  was  made  to  refemble  a  water  cafk,  be- 
ing firft  given  to  the  coachman,  fervants,  and  guards. 
As  they  proceeded  the  advance  guard  pafled  it  unob- 
ferved,  but  the  coachman  difcovered  it  juft  as  the  ccn- 
fular  carriage  was  on  a  parallel  with  it  •,  initantly  the 
dexterous  and  faithful  charioteer  lafhed  his  horfes  in- 
to full  fpeed,  and  turned  the  corner  of  the  Rue  Mar- 
cem.     In  one  moment  after,  the  terrible  machine  ex- 
ploded, and  covered  the  fcreet  with  ruins.   The  thun- 
der of  its  difcharge  fhcok  the  houfes  of  Paris,  and 
was  heard  at  a  confiderable  diftance  in  the  country. 
The  firft  conful  arrived  in  fafety  at  the  Hall  of  Mufic, 
and  with  every  appearance  of  perfecl  tranquillity,  en- 
tered his  box  amidft  the  acclamations  of  the  crowded 
multitude.     The  range  of  buildings  which  was  fhat- 
tered  by  the  explofion,  has  long  offended  the  eye  of 
tafte,  and  prefented  a  gloomy,  and  very  inconvenient 
obllrufticn  to  the  grand  entrance  of  the  palace.    Bo- 


CHAP.  X.]  IN  FRANCE.  113 

naparte  with  his  ufual  judgment,  which  converts  ev- 
ery event  into  fome  good,  immediately  after  this  af- 
fair, purchafed  the  houfes  which  were  damaged,  and 
the  whole  of  this  fcene  of  ruins  and  rubbifh  is  remo- 
ving with  all  poflible  expedition^  to  the  great  im- 
provement of  this  grand  approach.. 

Whilft  I  was  ftrolling  along  the  banks  of  the  Seine, 
I  could  not  help  remarking  that  it  would  fuffer  much 
by  a  comparifon  with  the  Thames,  fo  finely  defcribed 
by  Sir  John  Denham. 

Though  deep,  yet  clear,  though  gentle  yet  not  dull  ; 
Strong  without  rage,  without  o'erflowing  full. 

The  Serine  is  narrow,  and  very  dirty  ;  its  waters, 
which  are  finely  titrated  when  drawn  from  the  foun- 
tains of  Paris,  produce  an  aperient  effect  upon  Gran- 
gers, who  are^  generally  cautioned  not  to  drink  much 
of  them  at  a  time. 

The  tide  does  not  reach  further  than  feveral  miles  • 
below  Paris  •,  to  this  caufe  I  can  alone  attribute, 
though  perhaps  the  reafon  is  infufficient,  that  the 
river  is  never  rendered  gay  by  the  pairing,  and  re- 
paying of  beautiful  pleafure  boats,  to  the  delights  of 
which  the  Parhians  feem  total  rtrangers.  Its  fhores 
are  fadly  disfigured  by  a  number  of  black,  gloomy, 
and  unwieldly  meds,  which  are  erected  upon  barges, 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  walherwomen,  .who,  by 
their  mode  of  waihing,  which  is,  by  rubbing  the  linen 
in  the  river  water,  and  beating  it  with  large  flat  pieces 


1U  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  X. 

of  wood,  refembling  battledores,  until  the  dirt,  and 
generally  a  portion  of  the  linen  retire  together,  make 
a  noife  very  iimilar^to  that  of  fhipwrights  caulking  a 
veflel.     This  is  an  abominable  nuifance,  and  renders 
the  views  up  the  river,  from  the  centre  of  the  Pont  de 
la  Concorde,  the  moil  complete  melange  of  filth  and 
finery,  meannefs  and  magnificence  I  ever  beheld, 
Whilft  I  am  fpeaking  of  thefe   valuable,  but  noify 
dames,  I  muft  mention  that  their  fervices  are  chiefly 
confined  to  Grangers,  and  the  humbler  clafs  of  Parif-, 
izns.     The  genteel  families  of  France  are  annoyed  by 
the  unpleafant  domeftic  occurrence  of  warning,  when 
in  town  only  once,  and  when  in  the  country  only 
twice  in  the  courfe  of  the  year.     Their  magazine?  of 
clothes  are  of  courfe  immenfe,  for  the  reception  and 
arrangement  of  which  feverai  rooms  in  their  houfes 
are  always  allotted.     It  is  the  intention  of  the  firfl 
conflil  gradually  to  unkennel  this  clattering  race  of 
females.,  when  it  can  be  done  with  fafety.     To  force 
them  to  the  tub,  and  to  put  them  into  the  fuds  too 
fuddenly,  might,  from  their  influence  amongft  the 
lower  claffes  of  citizens,  be  followed  by  confequences 
not  very  congenial  to  the  repofe  of  the  government. 
To  mow  of  what  importance  the  ladies  of  the  low- 
er clafs  in  Paris  are,  I  fhall  rehte  a  little  anecdote  of 
Bonaparte,  in  which  he  is  confidered  to  have  exhibit- 
ed as  much  bra\ery  as  he  ever  djfplayed  in  the  £el4 
of  battle.. 


CHAP.  X]  IN   FRANCE.  115 

The  pohTardes,  whofe  name  alone  will  awaken 
fome  emotion  in  the  mind  of  the  reader,  from  its  hor- 
rible union  with  the  barbarous  maiTacres  which  difcol- 
ored  the  capital  with  blood  during  the  revolution, 
have  been  from  time  immemorial  accuftomed,  upon 
any  great  and  fortunate  event,  to  fend  a  deputation 
of  their  fiflerhood,  to  the  kings  and  minifters  of 
France,  and  fince  the  revolution  to  the  various  rulers 
of  the  republic,  to  offer  their  congratulations,  accom- 
panied by  a  large  bouquet  of  flowers.  Upon  the. 
elevation  of  Bonaparte  to  the  fupreme  authority  of 
France,  according  to  cuftom,  they  fent  a  felecTc  num- 
ber from  their  body  to  prefent  him  with  their  good 
wifhes,  and  ufual  fragrant  donation.  The  fir il  con-* 
ful  fternly  received  them,  and  after  rejecting  their 
nofegay,  fiercely  told  them  to  retire,  and  in  future  to 
attend  to  their  hufbands,  their  children,  and  their- 
fisheries,  and  never  more  to  attempt,  an  interference  in 
matters  relating  to  the  ftate.  Upon  which  he  order- 
ed the  pages  in  waiting  to  clofe  the  door  upon  them* 
He  thought  no  doubt  that  "  Omnium  manibus  res 
«  humanse  egent  ::  paucorum,  capita  mfficiunt.'W 
«  Human  affairs  require  the  hands  of  all,  whilfV  the 
"  heads  of  ftw  are  fufficient.'* 

Theft  formidable  dames,  fo  celebrated  for  their  fe- 
rocity, retired  chagrined  and  chapfallen  from  the  pre- 
fence  of  the  imperious  conful,  and  have  not  attempt- 
ed to  force  either- their  congratulations,  or  their  bou- 
quets upon  any  of  the  public  functionaries  iince  th# 


116  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.    XI. 

period.  Such  a  repulfe  as  this,  offered  to  a  body  of 
people,  more  formidable  from  their  influence  than 
the  lazzaroni  of  Naples,  would  in  all  human  proba- 
bility have  coft  any  one  of  the  kings  of  France  his 
crown.  I  received  this  anecdote  from  the  brother  of 
one  of  the  miniflers  of  France  to  whom  this  country 
is  much  indebted.  Before  the  high  daring  of  Bona- 
parte, every  difficulty  feems  to  droop,  and  die. 

Near  the  Pont  de  la  Concorde  is  a  handfome,  and 
ornamental  building,  which  is  erected  upon  barges, 
and  contains  near  three  hundred  cold  and  tepid  baths, 
for  men  and  women.  It  is  furrounded  by  a  wooden 
fcerrace,  which  forms  an  agreeable  walk  upon  the  wa- 
ter, and  is  decorated  with  fhrubs,  orange  trees,  and 
flowers,  on  each  fide. 

This  place  is  very  grateful  in  a  climate  which  in 
fummer,  is  intenfely  warm.  There  are  other  public 
baths,  but  this  is  chiefly  reforted  to  by  people  of  re- 
fpe&abiiity.     The  price  is  very  moderate,  thirty  fois„ 


CHAPTER  XI. 

ID  avid. — Place  de  Concorde  .~V  Eglife  de  Madeleine* 
— Print  Jhops. — Notre  Dame. — Mufeum,  or  Palace 
of  Arts. — Hall  of  Statues. — Laocoon. — Belvidere  A- 
prflo. — Socrates. 

DURING  my  flay  in  Paris  I  vifited  the  gallery  of 
David.    This  celebrated  artifthas  amaiTed  a  fortune. 


CHAP.  XL]  IN   FRANCE.  1  lY 

of  upwards  of  two  hundred  thoufand  pounds,  and  is 
permitted  by  his  great  patron  and  friend,  Bonaparte, 
to  occupy  the  corner  wing  of  the  old  palace,  from 
which  every  other  man  of  genius  and  fcience,  who 
was  entitled  to  refide  there,  has  been  removed  to  oth- 
er places,  in  order  to  make  room  for  the  reception  of 
the  grand  National  Library,  which  the  firft  conful  in- 
tends to  have  depoilted  there.  His  apartments  are 
very  magnificent,  and  furnilhed  in  that  tafte,  which 
he  lias,  by  the  influence  of  his  fame,  and  his  elegance 
ofdefign,  fo  widely  and  fuccefsfuliy  diffufed.  Whilft 
I  was  feated  in  his  rooms,  I  could  not  help  fancying 
myfelf  a  contemporary  of  the  mod  tafleful  times  of 
Greece.  Tunics  and  robes  were  carelefsly  but  grace- 
fully thrown  over  the  antique  chairs,  which  were 
furrounded  by  elegant  flatues,  and  ancient  libraries, 
fo  difpofed,  as  to  perfect  the  claffical  illufion.  I 
found  David  in  his  garden,  putting  in  the  back 
ground  of  a  painting.  He  wore  a  dirty  robe,  and 
an  old  hat.  His  eyes  are  dark  and  penetrating,  and 
beam  with  the  luftre  of  genius.  His  collection  of 
paintings  and  flatues,  and  many  of  his  own  ftudies, 
afforded  a  perfect  banquet.  He  was  then  occupied 
in  drawing  a  fine  portrait  of  Bonaparte.  The  pref- 
ence  of  David  covered  the  gratification  with  gloom. 
Before  me,  in  the  bofom  of  that  art,  which  is  faid, 
with  her  divine  afTociates,  to  foften  the  fouls  of  men, 
I  beheld  the  remorfelefs  judge  of  his  fovereign,  the 
deftroyerofhis  brethren  in  art,  and  the  enthufiaft 


US  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XI. 

and  confidential  friend  of  Robefpierre.  David's  po- 
litical life  is  too  well  known.  During  the  late  fcenes 
of  horror,  he  was  afeed  by  an  acquaintance,  how  ma- 
ny heads  had  fallen  upon  the  fcaffold  that  day,  to 
which  he  is  faid  coolly  to  have  replied,  "  only  one 
u  hundred  and  twenty  ! !  The  heads  of  twenty  thouf- 
"  and  more  muft  fall  before  the  great  work  of  phi- 
"  lofbphy  can  be  accomplished." 

It  is  related  of  him,  that  during  the  reign  of  the 
Mountain,  he  carried  his  portfolio  to  the  front  of  the 
fcaffold,  to  catch  the  laft  emotions  of  expiring  na- 
ture, from  the  viftims  of  his  revolutionary  rage. 

He  directed  and  prefided  at  the  fplendid  funeral 
folemnities  of  Lepelletier,  who  was  affaffinated  by 
Paris,  in  which  his  tafte  and  intimate  knowledge  of 
the  ceremonies  of  the  antients,  on  fimilar  occafions, 
were  eminently  difplayed. 

Farewel,  David !  when  years  have  rolled  away, 
and  time  has  mellowed  the  works  of  thy  fublime  pen- 
cil, mayft  thou  be  remembered  only  as  their  creator  5 
may  thy  fame  repofe  herfelf  upon  the  tableau  cf  the 
dying  Socrates,  and  the  miraculous  pafTage  of  the  Al- 
pine hero,  may  the  enfanguined  records  of  thy  polit- 
ical frenzy,  moulder  away,  and  may  fcience,  who 
knew  not  blood  till  thou  wert  known,  whofe  pure, 
and  hallowed  inspirations  have  made  men  happier, 
and  better,  till  thou  wert  born,  implore  for  thee  for- 
givenefs,  and  whilft,  with  rapture  ihe  points  to  the 
immortal  images  of  ihy  divine  genius,  may  fhe  cove? 


CHAP.  XL]  MN  FRANCE.  119 

with  an  impenetrable  pall,  the  pale,  and  fhuddering, 
and  bleeding  victims  of  thy  fanguinary  foul ! 

The  great  abilities  of  this  man,  have  alone  enabled 
him  to  furvive  the  revolution,  which,  flrange  to  re- 
late, has  throughout  its  ravages,  preierved  a  ^venera- 
tion for  fcience,  and,  in  general,  protected  her  diftin- 
guimed  followers.  Bonaparte,  who  poffeffes  great 
tafte  «  that  inftinct  fuperior  to  fludy,  furer  than  reaf- 
"  oning,  and  more  rapid  than  reflection,"  entertains 
the  greateft  admiration  for  the  genius  of  David,  and 
always,  confults  him  in  the  arrangement  of  his  paint- 
ings  and  (latues.  All  the  coftumes  of  government 
have  been  designed  by  this  artift. 

David  is  not  without  his  adherents.  He  has  many 
pupils,  the  fons  of  refpectable,  and  fome  of  them,  of 
noble  families  refiding  in  different  "parts  of  Europe. 
They  are  faid  to  be  much  attached  to  him,  and  have 
formed  themfelves  into  a  military  corps,  for  the  pur« 
pofe  of  occafionally  doing  honor  to  him,  and  were 
lately  on  the  point  of  revenging  an  infult,  which  had 
been  offered  to  his  perfon,  in  a  manner,  which  if 
perpetrated,  would  have  required  the  intereft  of 
their  mailer  to  have  faved  them  from  the  fcaffold. 

But  neither  the  gracious  protection  of  conrular  fa-J 
vor,  nor  the  fplendor  of  unrivalled  abilities,  can  re- 
ftore  their  polluted  poffeffor,  to  the  affections  and  j 
endearments  of  focial   intercourfe.      Humanity  has 
drawn  a  fable  circle,  round  him.    He  leads  the  life  of  a 
profcribed  exile,  in  the  very  centre  of  the  gajLeft  city 


120  THE  STRANGER  [CKAP.  XL 

in  Europe.  In  the  gloomy  {hade  of  unchofen  fecluf- 
ion,  he  paffes  his  ungladdened  hours,  in  the  hope  of 
covering  his  guilt  with  his  glory,  and  of  prefenting  to 
pofterity,  by  the  energies  of  his  unequalled  genius, 
fome  atonement  for  the  havoc,  and  ruin  of  that  politi- 
cal hurricane,  of  which  he  directed  the  fury,  and  be- 
friended the  defolations,  againft  every  contemporary 
object  that  nature  had  endeared,  and  virtue  confe- 
crated. 

After  leaving  the  gallery  of  David,  I  vifited  la 
Place  de  la  Concorde.  This  ill  fated  fpot,  from  its 
fpacioufnefs,  and  beauty  of  fituation,  has  always  been 
the  theatre  of  the  great  fetes  of  the  nation,  as  well  as 
the  fcene  of  its  greateft  calamities.  When  the  nup- 
tials of  the  late  king  and  queen  were  celebrated,  the 
magnificent  fireworks,  fhows,  and  illuminations 
which  followed,  were  here  difplayed.  During  the 
exhibition,  a  numerous  banditti,  from  Nbrmandy, 
broke  in  upon  the  vaft  afTemblage  of  fpettators  :  ow- 
ing to  the  confufion  which  followed,  and  the  fall  of 
the  fcaffolding,  the  fupporters  of  which  were  fawed 
through  by  thefe  wretches,  the  diforder  became 
dreadful,  and  univerfal ;  many  were  crumed  to 
death,  and  fome  hundreds  of  the  people,  whilft  en- 
deavoring to  make  their  efcape,  were  ftabbed  and 
robbed.  The  king  and  queen  as  a  mark  of  their 
deep  regret,  ordered  the  dead  to  be  entombed  in  the 
new  burial  ground  of  KEglife  de  Madeleine,  then 
erecting  at  the  entrance  of  the  Boulevard  des  Italiens, 


CHAP.  XI.]  IN   FRANCE.  121 

in  the  neighborhood  of  the  palace,  under  the  imme- 
diate infpe&ion  and  patronage  of,  the  fovereign.  This 
building  was  never  finished,  and  ftill  prefents  to  the 
eye,  a  naked  pile  of  lofty  walls  and  columns.     Alas ! 
the  gloomy  auguries  which  followed  this  fatal  fpe&a- 
cle,  wei;e  too  truly  realized.      On  that  fpot  periihed 
the  monarch  and  his  queen,  and  the  flower  of  the 
French  nobility,  and  many  of  the  virtuous  and  en- 
lightened men  of  France,  and  in  this  cemetery,  their 
unhonored  remains  were  thrown,   amidft  heaps  of 
headlefs  victims,  into  promifcuous  graves  of  unflacked 
lime  ! 

How  infcrutable  are  the  ways  of  deftiny  ! 
This  fpot,  which,  from  its  enchanting  fcenery,  is 
calculated  only  to  re cal,  or  to  infpire  the  moft  ten- 
der, and  generous,  and  elegant  fentiments,  which  has 
been  the  favored  refort  of  fo  many  kings,  and  the 
fcene  of  every  gorgeous  fpe&acle,  was  doomed  to  be- 
come the  human  fhambles  of  the  brave  and  good, 
and  the  Golgotha  of  the  guillotine  !  In  the  centre,  is 
an  oblong  fquare  railing,  which  enclofes  the  exact 
fpot  where  formerly  flood  that  inftrument  of  death, 
which  was  voted  permanent  by  its  remorfelefs  em- 
ployers. 

A  temporary  model  in  wood,  of  a  lofty  fuperb  mon- 
ument, two  hundred  feet  high,  intended  to  be  erect- 
ed in  honor  of  Honaparte  and  the  battle  of  Marengo, 
was  raifed  in  this  place,  for  his  approval,   but  from 

policy  or  modefty,  he  declined  this  diftinnguiihed 
L 


121  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.  XI. 

mark  of  public  approbation.  I  was  a  little  furprifed 
to  obferve,  in  the  windows  of  the  principal  print 
fhops,  prints  expofed  to  fale,  reprefenting  the  late 
king,  in  his  full  robes  of  flate,  under  which  was 
written,  Le  Reftaurateur  de  la  liberie,  (an  equivoque, 
no  doubt)  and  the  parting  interview  between  that  un- 
happy fovereign  and  his  queen  and  family  in  the  tem- 
ple, upon  the  morning  of  his  execution. 

This  little  circumftance  will  fhow  the  confidence 
which  the  prefent  rulers  feel  in  the  ftrength  and  Se- 
curity of  the  preient  government  *,  for  fuch  reprefen- 
tations  are  certainly  calculated  to  excite  feelings,  and 
to  refiore  imprefllons  which  might  prove  a  little  haz- 
ardous to  both,  were  they  lefs  powerfully  fiipported. 

I  was  alfo  one  morning  a  little  furprifed,  by  hear- 
ing from  my  window,  the  exhilirating  fong  of  "  Rule 
Britannia"  played  upon  a  hand  organ  ;  upon  looking 
down  into  the  ftreet,  I  beheld  a  Savoyard  very  com- 
pofedly  turning  the  handle  of  his  mufical  machine,  as 
he  moved  along,  and  a  French  officer  humming  the 
tune  after  him.  Both  were,  no  doubt  ignorant  of 
the  nationality  of  the  fong,  though  not  of  the  truth 
of  its  fentiment. 

In  the  courfe  of  one  of  my  morning  walks,  I  went 
to  the  metropolitan  abbey  of  Notre  Dame,  which  is 
.fituated  at  the  end  of  a  large  ifland  in  the  Seine, 
which  forms  a  part  of  Paris,  and  is  filled  with  long 
narrow  ftreets.     It  is  a  fine  gothic  pile,  but  in   my 


CHAP.  XL  IN    FRANCE,  123 

humble  opinion,  much  inferior  to    our  Weftminfter 
abbey,  and  to  the  great  churches  of  Rouen. 

From  this  building  I  viijtedj  with  a  large  party, 
the  celebrated  mufeum,  or  palace  of  the  arts,  which 
I  afterwards  generally  frequented  every  other  day. 

^This  ineftimable  collection  contains  one  thoufand 
and  thirty  paintings,  which  are  confidered  to  be  the 
chefs  d'eeuvre  of  the  great  ancient  mafters,  and  is  a 
treafury  of  human  art  and  genius,  unknown  to  the 
moft  renowned  of  former  ages,  and  far  furpaffing 
every  other  inftitution  of  the  fame  nature,  in  the  pref- 
ent  times. 

The  fir  ft  apartment  is  about  the  fize  of  the  exhibi- 
tion room  of  Somerfet  houfe,  and  lighted  as  that  is, 
from  above.  It  contains  feveral  exquifite  paintings 
which  have  been  prefented  to  Bonaparte  by  the  prin~ 
ces,  and  rulers  of  thofe  ftates  which  have  been  either 
fub  Jaed  by  his  arms,  or  have  cultivated  his  alliance^ 
The  Parifians  call  this  apartment  Bonaparte's  nofe- 
gay.  The  moft  coftly  pictures  in  the  room,  are  from 
the  gallery  of  the  grand  duke  of  Tuicany.  Amongft 
fo  many  works,  all  exquifite  and  beautiful,  it  is  almoft 
temerity  to  attempt  tofelecl,  but  if  I  might  be  per« 
mitted  to  name  thofe  which  pleafed  me  moft,  I  fhould 
particularize  the  Ecce  Homo,  by  Cigoli  Ludovico- 
Cardi. 

The  breaft  of  the  mild  and  benevolent  Saviour,, 
ftriped  with  the  bruifes  of  recent  puniihment,  and 
his  heavenly  countenance,  benignly  looking  forgive- •! 


124  THE    STRINGER  [CHAP.  XI. 

nefs  upon  his  executioners,  are -beautifully  delineated, 
L'Annonciation,  by  Gentileschi,  in  which  the  divine 
look  of  the  angel,  the  graceful  plumage  of  his  wings, 
and  the  drapery  of  the  virgin,  are  incomparable.  La 
SageiTe  chafTant  les  Vices,  which  is  a  very  ancient 
and  curious  painting,  by  Andrea  Montegna,  in  which 
the  figure  of  Idlenefs,  without  arms,  is  wonder  fully 
conceived.  Les  Noces  de  Cana,  by  Paul  Veronefe, 
which  is  confidered  to  be  the  bed?  of  his  works.  It 
is  the large  ft  painting  I  ever  beheld.  The  figures 
which  are  feated  at  the  banquet,  are  chiefly  the  por- 
traits of  contemporary  royal  perfonages  of  different 
nations,  From  this  room  we  pafled  into  the  gallery 
of  the  Louvre. 

I  cannot  adequately  defcribe  the  firft  impreffions 
which  were  awakened,  upon  my  flrft  entering  it, 
and  contemplating  fuch  a  galaxy  of  art  and  genius. 
This  room  is  one  thoufmd  two  hundred  feet  long, 
and  is  lined  with  the  fineft  paintings  of  the  French, 
Flcmiih,  and  Italian  fchcols,  and  is  divided  by  a  curi- 
ous double  painting  upon  flate  placed  upon  a  pedeftal 
in  the  middle  of  the  room,  which  reprefents  the  front 
and  back  view  of  the  fame  figures.' 

The  fir  A:  divifion  of  this  hall  contains  the  fineft 
works  of  le  Brun,  many  of  which  are  upon  an  im- 
mcnfe  fcale.  L'Hyver  ou  le  Deluge,  by  Pou&n,  is 
truly  fublime,  but  is  unfortunately  placed  in  a  bad 
light.  There  are  alfo  feme  beautiful  marine  paint- 
ings, by  Verney.      Les  Religieufes,   by  Philip  de 


CHAP.  XI.]  *N   FRANCE  125 

Champagne,  is  juftly  celebrated  for  the  principal  fig- 
ure of  the  dying  nun.  Vue  de  Chevet,  dune  eglife, 
by  Emanuel  de  Witte,  is  an  exmiifite  little  cabinet 
picture,,  in  which  the  effect  of  a  ray  o£  light  mining 
through  a  painted  window,  upon  a  column,  is  inimit- 
able, and  the  perfective  is  very  fine.  There  are  here 
alfofome  of  the  fine  ft  works  of  Wouvermans,  and  a 
charming  picture  by  Teniers.  La  Vierge,  l'enfant 
Jefus,  la  Madeleine,  et  St.  Jerome,  by  Antoine  Alle- 
gri  Correge,  is  confidered  to  be  a  picture  of  great 
beauty  and  value.  There  are  alfo  fome  glorious 
paintings  by  Reubens,  I  have  thus  briefly  fele&ed- 
thefe  pictures  from  the  reft,  hoping,  at  the  fame  time, 
that  it  will  nor  be  inferred  that  thofe  which  I  hate 
not  named,  of  which  it  would  be  impoflible  to  offer  a 
defcription  without  filling  a  bulky  volume,  are  inferi- 
or to  the  works  which  I  have  prefumed  to  mention. 
The  recording  pen  muffc  rival  that  matchlefs  pencil,' 
which  has  thus  adorned  the  walls  of  the  Mufennx,  be- 
fore it  can  do  juftice  to  fuch  a  magnificent  collec-- 
tfcxu. 

This  exhibition  is  public  three  days  in  the  week, 
and  at  other  times  is  open  to  fludents  and  to  flrang- 
ers,  upon  their  producing  their  paflports.  On  public 
days,  all  defer iptions  of  perfons  are  here  to  be  feen, 
The  contemplation  of  fuch  a  mixture  is  not  altogeth- 
er uninterefting* . 

The  fun- browned -rugged  plebeian,  whofe  mind,  by^ 
Use  influence  of  an  unexampled  political,  change,  .has 


226  THE   STRANGER  CHAP.    XI. 

been  long  alienated  from  all  the  noble  feelings  which 
religion  and  humanity  infpire,  is  here  feen,  with  his 
arms  rudely  folded  over  his  breaft,  fbFtehing  into 
pity,  before  the  ftruggling  and  finking  fufferer  of  a 
deluged  world,  or  filently  imbibing  from  the  divine 
refigned  countenance  of  the  crucified  Saviour,  a  hope 
of  unperifhable  blifs,  beyond  the  grave.  Who  will 
condemn  a  policy  by  which  ignorance  becomes  en- 
lightened, profligacy  penitent,  and  which,  as  by 
Health,  imparts  to  the  relenting  bofom  of  ferocity, 
the  fiibiued,  and  focial  difpofition  of  true  fraternity  ? 

To  amufe,  may  be  necefTary  to  the  prefent  gov- 
ernment ofFrance,  but  furely  to  fupplant  the  wild, 
abandoned  principles  of  a  barbarous  revolution,  with 
new  impreffions,  created  by  an  unreferved  di/play  of 
the  fineft.  and  moil  perfuafive  images  of  refigned  fuf- 
fering,  heroic  virtue,  or  elegant  beauty,  cannot  be 
deemed  unworthy  of  the  ruler  of  a  great  people. 

At  this  place,  as  well  as  at  all  the  other  national 
exhibitions,  no  money  for  admiflion  is  required  or 
expected.  No  perfon  is  admitted  with  a  flick,  and 
guards  attend  to  preferve  the  pictures  from  injury, 
and  the  exhibition  from  riot.  The  gallery  of  the 
Louvre  is  at  prefent,  unfortunately,  badly  lighted 
throughout  owing  to  the  light  iffuing  chiefly  on  one 
fide,  f r  om  long  windows.  This  inconvenience,  how* 
ever,  is  foon  to  be  remedied  ;  by  obferving  the  fame 
manner  of  lighting,  as  in  the  adjoining  apartment. 


CHAP.  XL]  *N  tffcANCE.  127 

From  the  mufeum,  we  defcended  into  la  Salle  des 
Antiques,  which  contains  all  the  treafury  of  Grecian 
and  Roman  ftatuary.  The  fir  ft  object:  td  which  we 
haftened,  was  the  ftatue  of  Laocoon,  for  fo  many  ag- 
es, and  by  fo  many  writers  admired  and  celebrated. 
This  fuperb  fpecimen  of  Grecian  fculpture,  is  fup- 
pofed  to  be  the  united  production  of  Polydorus,  A- 
thenbdorus,  and  Agefander,  but  its  great  antiquity 
renders  its  hiftory  fomewhat  dubious.  In  the  begin- 
ning of  the  fifteenth  century  it  was  difcovered  at 
Rome  amongft  the  ruins  of  the  palace  of  Titus,  and 
depofited  in  the  Farnefe  palace,  whence  it  has  been 
removed  to  Paris,  by  the  orders  of  Bonaparte,  after 
the  conqueft  of  Italy.  It  reprefents  Laocoon,  the 
prieft  of  Apollo  and  Neptune,  and  his  two  fons  writh-- 
ing  in  the  folds  of  two  hideous  ferpents.  The  read- 
er will  remember  the  beautiful  lines  of  Vh-gil  upon 
the  fubje£t, 

*c        i    '  et  piiraum  pa'rtf  a  Quorum 

C{  Corpora  natorum  terpens  ara'plfc^us  uterque 
i5  Implicat,  et  miferos  moriu  depafcitur  arttfs. 
•'Poft,  ipfum  auxitio  fubeufctem  ac  tela  fer^ntem 
"  Corripiunt,  fpirifque  ligarit  ingentibus  :  ft  jam 
«'  Bis  mediutn  atoplexi,  bis  tollb  fquarces  circum 
'"•  Tcrga  dati,  fuperarit  capite  et  cervicibus  altis. 
11  Ille  fimul  manibus  tendit    divellere  nodo! — " 

Or,  m  the  EnglilhJiabit  w  Lich  Dryden  has  given 
them, 


12S  THE  SfRAHGER  [CHAP.   XI. 

"Andfjril  around  the  tender  boys  they  wind, 
"•Then  with  their  fharpen'd  fangs,  their,  limbs  and 

bodies  grind* 
tc  The  wretched  father,  running  to  their  ail, 
"  With  pious  hade,  but  vain,  they  next  invade  : 
"Twice  ro.jnd  his  waift  the  winding  volumes  roli'd, 
"  And  twice  about  his  gaping  throat  they  fold. 
"  The  priefi,  thus  doubly  chok'd,  their  crefts  divide, 
"  And  tow'ring  o'er  h  s  head  in  triumph  ride. 
"  With  both  his  hands  he  labors  at  the  knots — ••* 

Pliny  mentions  this  ftatue  as  the  admiration  of  the 
age  in-  which  he  flourished;. 

I  fear  that  I  fhall  be  guilty  of  a  fort  of  profanation 
when  I  remark,  that  the  figures  of  the  two  fons:  of 
Laocoon  appear  to  exhibit  rather  more  marks  of  ma- 
turity, and  ftrength  of  mufcle  than  are  natural  to  their 
*  iize,  and  to  the  fuppofed  tendernefe  of  age.  It  is, 
however,  a  glorious  work  of  art~ 
We  next  beheld  the  Belvidere  Apollo.  This  ftat- 
ue,  in  my  humble  opinion,  furpafies  every  other  in. 
the  collection.  All  the  divinity  of  a  God  beams- 
through  this  unrivalled  perfection  of  form.  It  is  im- 
poffible  to  impart  the  impreflions  which  it  inljpires* 
The  rivetted  beholder  is  ready  to  exclaim,  with  Ad-* 
am,  when  he  firft  difcerns  the  approach  of  Raphael* 

««  — __ behold  what  glorious  fhape 


f*  Comes. this  wav  moving  :  feems  another  morn, 

u  Rifon  on  mid  naoni  fonac  great  be&ell  froafcHeavW 


CHAfr.XL]  IN  FRANCE.  129 

The  imagination  cannot  form  fuch  an  union  of 
grace  and  ftrength.  During  my  flay  in  Paris,  I  fre- 
quently vifited  this  diftinguifhed  flatue,  and  difcover- 
ed  frefh  fubjeels  of  amazement,  and  admiration  as 
often  as  I  gazed  upon  it.  One  of  its  remarkable 
beauties,  is  its  exqulfite  expreflion  of  motion.  Its 
aerial  appearance  perpetually  excites  the  idea  of  its 
being  unftationary,  and  unfupported.  As  it  would 
be  a  rafh  and  vain  attempt  to  give  a  complete  defcrip- 
tion  of  this  matchlefs  image,  I  muft,  reluctantly,  leave 
it,  to  inform  my  reader,  that  on  the  other  fide  of  the 
Hall  are  the  original  Diana  (which  is  wonderfully 
fine)  and  feveral  very  beautiful  Venufes.  The  Ve- 
nus de  MecKcis  is  not  here.  There  are  alfo  fome  fine 
whole  length  ftatues  of  Roman  magistrates,  in  their 
curule  chairs. 

In  the  Temple  of  the  Mufes,  are  exquifite  bufis 
of  Homer  and  Socrates.  Pliny  informs  us  that  the 
ancient  world  pofiefled  no  original  buft  of  the  for- 
mer. That  of  the  latter  feems  to  have  been  chifiel- 
led  to  reprefent  tho  celebrated  Athenian  before  ho 
had  obtained  his  philofophical  triumph  over  thofe 
vices,  which  a  diftinguifhed  phyfionomifl  of  his  time 
once  imputed  to  him  from  the  character  of  his  fea- 
tures. 


120  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.  XI. 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Bonaparte. Artillery. Mr.  Pitf.—-Neivfpapers.-~~ 

Archbifoop   of  Paris. — Confular  Colors. — Religion. 
Confular  Converfation.— Madame  Bonaparte. — Con* 
fular  Modejly. — Separate  Beds. — A  Country  Scene.—* 
Connubial  Affeclion. — Female  Bravery. 

A  LITTLE  anecdote  is  related  of  Bonaparte, 
which  unfolds  the  bold,  and  daring  character  of  this 
extraordinary  man  in  early  life  :  when  he  wa*  about 
fifteen  years  of  age,  and  a  cadet  in  the  military  fchool 
at  Paris — by  the  by,  the  fmall  diffonce  between  this 
feminary  and  his  prefent  palace,  and  the  fwiftnefs  of 
his  elevation,  afford  a  curious  coincidence — :n  the 
vaft  plain  of  the  Champ  de  Mars,  the  court,  and  the 
Parifians  were  auembled  to  witnefs  the  afcent  of  a 
balloon.  Bonaparte  made  his  way  through  the  crowd, 
and  unperceived,  entered  the  inner  fence,  which 
'  contained  the  apparatus  for  inflating  the  filken  globe. 
It  was  then  very  nearly  filled,  and  reftrained  from  its 
flight  by  the  laft  cord  only.  The  young  cadet  re- 
quefted  the  aerounaut  to  permit  him  to  mount  the 
car  with  him  j  which  requeft  was  immediately  refu- 
fed,  from  an  apprehenfion  that  the  feelings  of  the 
boy  might  embarrafs  the  experiment.  Bonaparte 
is  reported  to  have  exclaimed,  "  I  am  young,  it  is 
M  true,  but  I  neither  fear  the  power  of  earth,  nor  of 
«  air,"  and  fternly  added,  «  will  you  let  me  afcend  i* 


CHAP.  XII.]  IN   FRANCE.  131 

The  aeronaut,  a  little  offended  at  his  obtrufion,  fharp- 
ly  replied,  "  No,  Sir,  I  will  not ;  I  beg  that  you  will 
«  retire.'*  Upon  which  the  little  enranged  officer, 
drew  a  fmall  fabre,  which  he  wore  with  his  uniform, 
inftantly  cut  the  balloon  m  feveral  places,  and  deflroy- 
ed  the  curious  apparatus,  which  the  aeronaut  had 
conftrucled,  with  infinite  labor  and  ingenuity,  for  the 
purpofe  of  trying  the  poffibility  of  aerial  navigation. 

Paris  was  almoft  unpeopled  this  day,  to  view  the 
fpedtacle.  The  difappointment  of  the  populace, 
which  was  faid  to  have  exceeded  feven  hundred 
thoufand  perfons,  became  violent  and  univerfal.  The 
king- fent  to  know  the  reafon  of  the  tumult,  when 
the  ftory  was  related  to  him,  the  good  humored  mon- 
arch laughed  heartily,  and  faid,  "Upon  my  word 
that  impetuous  boy  will  make  a  brave  officer." — The 
devoted  king  little  thought  that  he  was  fpeaking  of 
his  fucceflbr. — The  young  offender  was  put  under  ar* 
reft,  and  confined  for  four  days. 

This  man  is  certainly  the  phenomenon  of  the  pres- 
ent times.  It  is  a  circumfiance  worthy  of  remark, 
that  the  artillery  has  furnifhed  France  with  mod  of 
Irs  prefent  diftinguifhed  heroes,  who  have  alfo  been 
bred  up  in  the  fame  military  fchool  with  Bonaparte. 
A  fhort  time  before  my  arrival  at  Paris,  this  great  ge- 
nius, who  difplays  a  perfect  knowledge  of  mankind, 
and  particularly  of  the  people  over  whom  he  rules, 
discovered  that  the  Pariiians,  from  a  familiarity  with 
his  perfon,  and  from  his  lady  and  his  family  having 


132  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.   XII. 

occaflonally  joined  in  their  parties  of  amnfement, 
began  to  lofe  that  degree  of  awe  and  refpeft  for  him, 
which  he  fo  well  knows  how  to  appreciate,  as  well  as 
to  infpire.  In  confequence  of  this,  he  gradually  retired 
from  every  circle  of  faihion,  and  was  at .  this,  period 
almoft  as  inaccefiable  as  a  Chinefe  emperor.     The 
fame  line  of  conduct  was  alfo  adopted  by  the  princi- 
pal officers  of  government.  He  reiided  almoft  wholly 
at  Mai  Maifon,  except  on  ftate  days,  when  only  thofe 
ftrangers  were  permitted   to  be  introduced  to  himj 
who  had  fatisfied  the  ambaifadors  of  their  refpective 
nations,  that  they  had  been  previously  prefented  at 
their  courts.     If  Bonaparte  is  fpared  from  the  ftroke 
of  the  aiTaffin,  or  the  prxtorian  caprice  of  the  army 
for  any  length  of  time,  he  will  have  it  in  his  power 
to  augment  the  fervices  which  he  has  already  afford- 
ed to  the  the  republic,  by  rebuilding  the  political 
edifice  of  France,  with  many  meliorations,  for  which 
fome  materials  may  be  collected  from  her  own  ruins, 
and  fome  from  the   tried  and  approved  constitutions 
of  other  countries.     If  his  ambition  will  permit  him 
to  difcharge  this  great  undertaking  faithfully,  in  a 
manner  uniform  with  that  glory  which  he  has  acquir- 
ed in  the  field,  and  influenced  only  by  the  noble  de- 
fire  of  giving  rationalliberty,and  pratticable  happinefs 
to  the  people  over  whom  he  fways,  they  will  in  return, 
without  jcaloufy  or  regret,  behold  the  being  to  whofe 
wifdom  and  moderation  they   will  be  thus  indebted, 
led  to  the  higheft  feat  amongft  them— they  will  con- 


CHAP.  XII. J  IN    FRANCE.  133 

fer  thofe  fanc"tions  upon  his  well  merited  diftinction, 
without  which  all  authority  is  but  difaftrous  usurpation 
— a  comet's  blaze,  flaming  in  a  night  of  di/mayt  and 
fitting  in  gloom. 

The  dignity  of  fuch  a  legifiator  will  be  felf  main- 
tained, and  lafting.  Upon  him,  the  grateful  French 
will  confer  thofe  unforced,  unpurchafed  fiiiFrages, 
which  will  prevent  that  fate,  which,  in  their  abfence, 
the  fubtilty  of  policy,  the  fafcinations  of  addrefs,  the 
charm  of  corruption,  and  even  the  terror  of  the  bay- 
onet can  only  pofipone. — Yes,  Bonaparte  !  millions  of 
fuffering  beings,  raifing  themfelves  from  the  duft,  in 
which  a  barbarous  revolution  has  paroftrated  them, 
look  up  to  thee  for  liberty,  protection,  and  repofe. 
They  will  not  look  to  thee  in  vain.  The  retiring 
ftorm  ftill  flafhing  its  leiTening  flame,  and  rolling  its 
distant  thunders  will  teach  thee,  were  it  necejfary^  not 
to  force  them  to  remeafure  their  vengeance,  by  their 
wrongs. 

In  Paris,  the  achievements,  of  the  firfl  conful  are 
■not  much  talked  of,  fo  true  is  the  old  adage,  that  no 
man  is  a  hero  to  his  own  domeftic.  The  beauties  cf 
a  colofial  ftatue,  muft  be  contemplated  at  a  diftance. 

The  French  at  prefent  work,  walk,  eat,  drink,  and  . 
fleep  in  tranquility,  and  what  is  of  more  conference 
to  them,  they  dance  in  fecurity,  to  which  may  be  ad- 
ded, that  their  taxes  are  neither  very  heavy,  nor 
oppreilve.  In  every  party  which  I  entered,  I  found 
the  late  minifter  of  Great  Britain  was  the  prevailing  . 
M 


I34>  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XII, 

fubject  of  curiofity.  I  was  overpowered  with  queft- 
ions  reflecting  this  great  man,  which  in  their  minute 
detail,  extended  to  afcertain  what  was  the  color  of 
his  eye,  the  fhape  of  his  nofe,  and  whether  in  a  mor- 
ning he  wore  huffar  boots,  or  fhoes.  This  little  cir- 
cumftance  could  not  fail  of  proving  pleafant  to  an 
Englifhman.  They  informed  me,  that  throughout 
the  war,  they  regularly  read  in  their  own  diurnal 
prints,  our  parliamentary  debates,  and  the  general 
outline  of  moffc  of  our  political  fchemes,  which  were 
furnifhed  by  people  in  the  pay  of  the  French  govern- 
ment, who  refided  in  England  notwithstanding  the 
feverity  of  the  legiffotive,  and  the  vigilance  of  the 
executive  authorities.  Whilft  I  am  mentioning  the 
fubject  of  newfpaper  intercourfe,  I  cannot  help  lamen- 
ting, that  fince  the  renewal  of  national  friendship,  the 
public  prints  of  both  countries  are  not  more  under 
the  influence  of  cordiality  and  good  humor. 

The  liberty  of  the  prefs  is  the  palladium  of  reafon, 
the  diftributor  of  light  and  learning,  the  public  and 
imdiimayed  afTerter  of  interdicted  truth.  It  is  the 
body  and  the  honor  guard  of  civil  and  political  liberty. 
Where  the  laws  halt  with  dread,  the  freedom  of  the 
prefs  advances,  and  with  the  fubtle  activity  of  con- 
ference, penetrates  the  fortified  reccfles  and  writes 
fts fearful  fent vem 'e  on  the  palace  ivall  of  recoiling  ty- 
rants. As  an  Englifhman,  my  expiring  figh  mould; 
be  breathed  for  its  prefervation  ;  but  as  an  admirer 
gf  fecial  re£ofe  and  national  liberty,  I  regret  to  fee 


CHAP.  XII.]  IN   FRANCE.  135 

its  noble  energies  engaged  in  the  degrading  fervice  of 
fretful  fpleen,  and  ungenerous  animadverflon.  When 
the  horizon  is  no  longer  blackened  with  the  fmoke  of 
the  battle,  it  is  unworthy  of  two  mighty  empires  to 
carry  on  an  ignoble  war  of  words.  If  peace  is  their 
wifh,  let  them  manifefl  the  great  ancbenlightened  fen- 
timent  in  all  its  purity,  and  difdain  to  in  itate  each 
other  by  a<£b  of  petulent  and  provoking  recrimina- 
tion. 

A  fhort  time  preceding  my  arrival  in  France,  Bon- 
aparte had  rendered  himfelf  very  popular  amongft  the 
Conftitutional  clergy,  by  a  well  timed  compliment  to 
the  metropolitan  archbifhop.  The  iirfl  conful  gave 
a  grand  dinner  to  this  dignified  prelate,  and  to  fev- 
eral  of  his  brethren.  After  the  entertainment,  Bon- 
aparte addrefled  the  archbifhop  by  obferving,  that  as 
he  had  given  directions  for  the  repairing  of  the  ar- 
chiepifcopal  palace,  he  fhould  very  much  like  to  take 
a  ride  in  the  archbifhop's  carriage,  to  fee  the  pro- 
grefs  which  the  workmen  had  made.  The  prelate 
bowed  to  the  firft  conful,  and  informed  him  that  he 
had  no  carriage,  otherwife  he  fhould  be  much  flat- 
tered by  conducting  him  thither.  Bonaparte  good 
humoredly  faid,  "  how  can  that  be  ?  your  coach  has 
been  waiting  at  the  gate  this  half  hour,"  and  imme- 
diately led  the  venerable  archbifhop  down  the  fteps 
of  the  Thuilleries,  where  he  found  a  plain  handfome 
carriage,  with  a  valuable  pair  of  horfes,  and  a 
coachman,  and  footmen  dreiTed  in  livery  which  Bo- 


1S6  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XII. 

naparte  had  juft  before  informed  him  would  be  allotted 
to  him,  when  his  efbblifhment  was  completed.     The 
whole  was  a  prefent  from  the  private  purfe  of  the 
firft  conful.     Upon  their  arrival  at  the  palace,  the 
archbiihop  was  agreeably  furprifed  by  finding  that 
the  moil  minute,  and  liberal  attention  had  been  paid 
to  his  comfort  and  accommodation. 
-     The    clergy  ieem  to  be  in  favor  with  Bonaparte. 
When  he  affilted  in  the  laft  fpring   at  the  inaugura- 
tion of  the  archbiihop  of  Paris,  in  the  metropolitan 
church  of  Notra  Dame,  and  ga\e  to  the  restoration 
of  religion  "  all  the  circumftance  of  pomp''  and  mil- 
itary parade,  he  was  delirous  of  having  the  colors  of 
his  regiment  confecrated  by  the  holy  prelate,  and 
fubmittel  his  wifhes  to  his  foldiers.     A    few  days 
afterwards,    a  deputation  waited  upon  their  general 
in  chief,  with  this  reply,  "  Our  banners  have  already 
"  been  confecrated  by  the  blood  of  our  enemies  at 
"  Marengo  ;  the  benediction  of  a  prieft  cannot  ren- 
"  der  them  more  facred  in  our  eyes,  nor  more  anim- 
«  ating  in  the  time  of  battle."     Bonaparte  prudently 
fubmitted  himfelf  to  their  praetorian  refolution,  and 
the  coniular  colors  remain  to  this  hour   in  the  fame 
uv.ckrijhanlike  condition  us  when  they  rlrft  waved  at 
the  head  of  their  victorious  legions.     This  anecdote 
will  ia  fome  degree  prove  a  fact  which,  notwithftand- 
ing  the   counter   reports  of  Englifh  ne    papers,  I 
found  every  where  confirmed,  that  although  religion 
is  hew  to  the  French,  yet  that  the  novelty  has  at  ptfef- 


CHAP,  XII]  IN    FRANCE.  1'dY 

entbut  little  charm  for  them.  I  had  frequent  op- 
portunity of  making  this  remark,  as  well  in  the  cap- 
ital as  in  the  departments  of  the  republic  through 
which  I  paired.  In  Paris,  the  Sabbath  can  only  be 
confidered:  as  a  day  of  diffipation  to  the  lovers  of 
gaiety,  and  a  day  of  unufual  profit  to  the  man  of 
trade.  Here,  it  is  true,  upon  particular  feftival  days, 
confiderable  bodies  of  people  are  to  be  feen  in  the 
act  of  worfhip,  but  curiofrty  and  the  love  of  fhew 
affemble  them  together,  if  it  was  otherwife  their  at- 
tendance wTould  be  more  numerous  and  regular.  The 
firft  conful  does  not  feem  to  pollefs  much  fafhionable 
influence  over  the  French  in  matters  of  religion,  oth- 
erwife, as  he  has  the  credit  of  attending  mafs,  with 
very  pious  punctuality,  in  his  private  chapel  at  Mai 
Maiibn,  it  might  be  rather  expected,  that  devotion 
would  become  a  little  more  familiar  to  the  people. 

Upon  another  fubject  the  will of  the  chief  m agif- 
trate  has  been  equally  unfortunate.  To  the  few  la- 
dies who  are  admitted  into  his  foeial  circles,  he  has 
declared  himfelf  an  enemy  to  that  drefs,  or  undrefs 
(I  am  puzzled  to  know  what  to  call  it)  which  his 
friend  David,  has  fo  fuccefsfully  recommended  for 
the  purpofe  of  difplaying,  with  the  leafl:  poffible  re- 
ftraint,  the  fine  proportions  of  the  female  form. 
Madame  Bonaparte,  who  is  coniidered  to  be  in  as 
good -aV ace  of  fubordinatioiv  to  her  young  hufband, 
as  the  con  hilar  regiment  is  to  their •  yotwg  general, 
contrives  to  exhibit  her  elegant  £erf6n  to  thegreatcft 
M.  % 


1?2  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XII. 

advantage  5  by  adopting  a  judicious  and  graceful 
medium  of  drefs  by  which  me  taitefully  avoids  a  load 
of  decoration,  which  repels  the  eye  by  two  denfe 
a  covering,  and  that  queftionable  airinefs  of  ornament 
which  by  its  gracious  and  unrellrained  dhplay,  de- 
prives the  imagination  of  more  than  half  its  pleafures. 
Bonaparte  is  faidnotto.be  indifferent  tothofe  affec- 
tions which  do  honor  to  the  breaff  which  cherifhes 
them,  nor  to  the  morals  of  the  people  whom  he  gov- 
erns. 

It  is  well  known  that  in  France,  in  the  houfe  of  a 
new  fafhionable  couple,  feparate  chambers  are  always 
relerved  for  the  faithful  pair,  which  after  the  folem- 
nities  of  marriage  very  feldom  remain  long  unoccur 
pied.  The  firrt  contui  confiders  fuch  feparation  as 
unfriendly  to  morals.  A  few  months  iince,  by  a  well 
timed  difplay  of  attained  ignorance,  he  endeavored 
to  give  falhion  to  a  lentiment  which  may  in  time  re- 
duce the  number  of  thefe  family  accommodations. 
The  noble  palace  of  St.  Cloud  was  at  this  time  pre- 
paring for  him  i  the  principal  architect  requcfted  of 
him  to  point  out  in  what  part  of  the  palace  he  woultj. 
wifh  to  have  his  feparate  fleeping  room.  "  I  do  not 
'">  know  what  you  mean,"  faid  the  young  imperial 
philofopher,  "  crimes  only  divide  the  hutband  and 
"  his  wife.  Make  as  many  bed  rooms  as  you  pleafe, 
«  but  only  cue  for  me  and  Madame  Bonaparte.'* 

I  muft  now  quit  the  dazzling  fplendor  of  imperial 
virtues  for  the  more  tranquil,  but  not  lefs  fafcinating 
appearance  of  retired  and  mdUeH;  m?rit. 


CHAP.  XII.]  IN  FRANCE.  ISO 

It  was  in  the  afternoon  of  one  of  the  fineft  days  in 

June,  when  Madame  O ,  with  her  nephew,  a 

very  amiable  young  man,  called  in  their  carriage  and 
took  me  to  the  chateau  of  her  hufband,  to  whom  I 
had  letters  of  introduction.  After  palling  through  a 
charming  country  for  nine  miles,  adorned  on  each 
fide  with  gar  Jens  and  country  houfes,  we  arrived  at 
the  pleafant  village  of  la  Reine.  As  foon  as  we  er> 
tered  it,  the  light  of  the  carriage,  and  of  their  bene- 
factrefs,  feemed  to  enliven  the  faces  of  the  villagers, 
who  were  feated  in  picturefque  groupes  at  the  doors 
of  their  cottages.  Such  animated  looks  were  not 
lighted  up  by  curiofity,  for  they  had  feen  Madame 

O r-  a  thoufand  and  a  thoufahd  times,   but  be- 

caufe  they  had  feldom  feen  her  without  experienc- 
ing fome  endearing  proof  of  a  bountiful  heart,  We 
left  the  village  to  the  right  and  proceeded  through  a 
private  road,  lined  with  llately  walnut  trees,  of  nearly 

a  mile  in  length,  which  led  to  Mpnlieur  O 's*     It 

was  evening  $  the  fun  was  letting  in  great  glory  and 
covered  the  face  of  this  romantic  country  with  the 
richell  glow.  Near  the  gate  of  a  flurubbery  Ibeheld 
a  very  handfome  boy,  whofe  appearance  at  once  be-. 
/poke  him  to  be  the fon of  agentleman,  the  animated 

fmile  of  Madame  O^ ,  immediately  convinced  me- 

that  it, was  her  Ion  ;  "fee,"  faid  the  delighted  mo- 
ther, « it  is  my  little  gardener  •,"  the  little  graceful 
ruftic  had  a  fmall  fpade  in  his  hand,  which  he  threw 
down,  and  ran  to  us.    We  alighted  at  the  entrance 


140  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XlL 

of  the  garden,  into  which  we  entered,  under  a  beau- 
tiful covered  treillage,  lined  with  Jeflamine  and  ho- 
neyfuckles.  At  the  end  were  two  elegant  young 
women,  waiting  with  delight,  to  receive  their  mo- 
ther, from  whom  they  had  been  feparated  only  a  few 
hours.  With  this  charming  family  I  entered  the 
houfe,  which  was  handfome  but  plain.  The  hofpitable 
owner  rofe  from  his  fofa,  and  after  embracing  Ids 
elegant  lady  with  great  affection,  he  received  me 
with  all  the  exprefiions  and  warmth  of  a  long  friend- 
ship. Scon  afterwards  his  fervant  (a  faithful  indian) 
entered,  and  fpread  upon  the  table,  Madeira,  Bur* 
gundy,  and  dried  fruits.  It  was  intenfely  hot  :  the 
great  window  at  the  end  of  the  room  in  which  we 
were  fittmg  opened  into  the  gardens,  which  appear- 
ed to  be  very  beautiful  and  abounded  with  nightin- 
gales, which  were  then  moil:  fweetly  finging.    "  They 

"  are   my  little  muilcians,"  faid  Monfieur  O , 

«<  we  have  made  a  pleafant  bargain  together,  I  give* 
w  them,  crumbs  of  bread  and  my  bowers  to  range  in, 
«  and  they  give  me  this  charming  mufic  every  eve*- 
"  ning." 

Monileur  O  ■■  ■  ■  was  an  invalide,  the  revolution, 
poignant  vexations,  heavy  lofTes  and  a  painful  fepera- 
tion  from  his  native  country,  for  the  prefervation  of 
his  life,,  and  that  of  his  family,  had  undermined  his 
health.  Grief  had.  made  fad  inroads  upoii  a  delicate 
confutation.  It  was  his  good  fortune  to  be  the  huf- 
band  of  one  of  the.fineft  and.  moil  amiable  women,  in* 


CHAP.  XIL]  IN  FRANCE.  141 

France,  and  the  father  of  an  affectionate,  beautiful, 
and  accomplished  family.  His  circumftances  had 
been  once  fplendid  ;  they  were  then  refpectable,  but 
he  had  parTed  through  events  which  threatened  his 
alL  Thofe  fufferings  which  generous  fouls  fuftain 
for  the  fake  of  others,  not  for  themfelves,  had  alone 
deftroyed  the  refemblance  which  once  exifted  be- 
tween this  excellent  man  and  his  admirable  portrait, 
which,  at  the  further  end  of  the  room,  prefented  the 
healthy  glow,  and  fine  proportions  of  manly  beauty. 
He  expreiTed  to  me,  in  the  moil  charming  manner, 
his  regret,  that  indifpofition  cofined  him  to  the  coun- 
try, and  prevented  him  from  receiving  me  in  Paris 
fuitable  to  his  own  wifhes,  and  to  thofe  claims  which 
I  had  upon  his  attentions,  by  the  letters  of  introduc- 
tion which  I  had  brought  to  him  *,  but  added,  that  he 
fliould  furnifh  me  with  letters  to  fome  of  his  friends 
in  town,  who  would  be  happy  to  fupply  his  abfence, 

and  to  make  Paris  agreeable  to  me.    Moniieur  O 

was  as  good  as  his  word. 

This  amiable  gentleman  porTeiTed  a  countenance  of 
great  genius,  and  a  mind  full  of  intelligence. 

After  an  elegant  fupper,  when  his  lady  and  daugh- 
ters had  withdrawn,  he  entered  into  a  very  interefting 
account  of  his  country,  of  the  revolution,  and  cf  his 
flight  for  the  falvation  of  himfelf  and  family.  A 
tolerable  good  opinion  may  be  formed  of  the  devalu- 
ation which  have  been  produced  by  the  late  republican 
government,  by  the  following  circumftance,  which 


H2  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XII. 

Monfieur  O allured  me,  on  the  word  of  a  man 

■  of  honor,  was  correct. 

His  fection  in  Paris  was  compofod  of  one  thoufand 
three  hundred  perfons,  of  rank  and  fortune,  of  whom 
.  only  five  had  efcaped  the  flaughter  of  the  guillot- 
ine !  ! 

Madame  O  and  her  charming  family,  feemed 

wholly  to  occupy  his  iieart  and  affections. 

He  fpoke  of  his  lady  with  all  the  tender  eulogium 
of  a  young  lover.  Their  union  was  entirely  from 
attachment,  and  had   been  refilled  on  the   part    of 

Madame  O ,  when  he  fir  ft  addrefied  her,   only 

becaufe  her  fortune  was  humble,  compared  with  his. 
He  informed  me,  and  I  muft  not  fupprefs  the  frory, 
that  in  the  time  of  blood,  this  amiable  woman,  who 
is  remarkable  for  the  delicacy  of  her  mind,  and  for 
the  beauty  and  majefty -of  her  peribn,  difplayed  a  de- 
gree of  coolaefs  a&J  courage,  which,  in  the  field  of 
battle,  would  hav?e  covered  the  hero  with  laurels. 
One  evening,  a  fhort  period  before  the  family  left 
France,  a  party  of  thoie  murderers,  who  were  fent 
for  by  Robefpierre,  from  the  frontiers  which  divide 
France  from  Italy,  and  who  were  by  that  arch  fiend 
employed  in  all  the  butcheries,  and  mafiacres  cf  Paris, 
entered  the  peaceful  village  of  la  Reine,  in  fearch  of 

Monfieur  O -..      His  lady  faw  them  advancing, 

and  anticipating  their  errand,  had  juft  time  to  give 
her  huiband  intelligence  of  their  approach,  who  left 
his  chateau  by  a  back  door,  and  fecreted  himfelf  in 


CHAP.  XII.]  IN   FRANCE.  14r3 

the  houfe-  of  a   neighbor.      Madame  O    ,  with 

perfect  compofure,  went  out   to  meet  them,  and 
received  them  in  the  moft  gracious  maner.     They 

fternly   demanded  Monlieur  O ,  flie  informed 

them  that  he  had  left  the  country,  and  after  engaging 
them  in  conversation,  fhe  conducted  them  into  her 
drawing  room>  and  regaled  them  with  her  beft  wines, 
and  made  her  fervants  attend  upon  them  with  unuf- 
ual  deference  and  ceremony.  Their  appearance  was 
altogether  horrible,  they  wore  leather  aprons,  which 
were  fprinkled  all  over  with  blood,  they  had  large 
horfe  piftols  in  their  bdts,  and  a  dirk  and  f  abre  by 
their  fides.  Their  looks  were  full  of  ferocity,  and 
they  fpoke  a  harfli  difTonant  patois  language.  Over 
their  cups,  they  talked  about  the  bloody  bufinefs  of 
that  day's  occupation,  in  the  courfe  of  which  they 
drew  out  their  dirks,  and  wiped  from  their  handles, 

clots  of  blood   and  hair.      Madame  O- fat   with  ' 

them,  undifmayed  by  their  frightful  deportment.  Af- 
ter drinking  feveral  bottles  of  Champaign  and  Bur- 
gundy, thefefavages  began  to  grow  good  humored, 
and  feemed  to  be  completely  fafcinateu  by  the  amia- 
ble and  unembarrafTed,  and  hofpitable  behavior  of 
their  fair  landlady.  After  caroufing  till  midnight, 
they  prefTed  her  to  retire,  obferving  that  they  had 
been  received  Co  handfomely  that  they  were  convin- 
ced Monueur  O had  been  mifreprefented,  and 

was  no  enemy  to  the  good  caufe ;  they  added  that 
.  they  found  the  wines  excellent,  and  after  drinking 


144-  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.   XII. 

two  or  three  bottles  more,  they  would  leave  the 
houfe,  without  caufingher  any  reafon  to  regret  their 
admiffion. 

Madame  O  -,  with  all  the  appearance  of  perfect 
tranquillity  and  confidence  in  their  promifes,  wifhed 
her  unwelcome  vifitors  a  good  night,  and  after  vifit- 
iting  her  children  in  their  rooms,  {he  threw  herfelf 
upon  her  bed,  with  a  loaded  piftol  in  each  hand,  and, . 
overwhelmed  with  fupprefTed  agony  and  agitation, 
fhe  foundly  flept  till  fhe  was  called  by  her  fervaats, 
two  hours  after  thefe  wretches  had  left  the  houfe. 
He  related  alfo  another  inftance  of  that  refolution 
which  is  not  unfrequently  exhibited  by  women, 
when  thofe  generous  affections,  for  which  they  are 
fo  juftly  celebrated,  are  menaced  with  danger.  A- 
bout  the  fame  period,  two  of  the  children  of  Mon- 

fieur  O were  in  Paris  at  fchool :  A  rumor  had 

reached  him,  that  the  teachers  of  the  feminary  in 
which  they  were  placed,  had  offended  the  govern- 
ment, and  were  likely  to  be  butchered,  and  that  the 
carnage  which  was  expected  to  take  place,  might,  in 
its  undiftinguifhed  fury,  extend  to  the  pupils.  Im- 
mediately upon  receiving  this  intelligence,  Monfieur 
O ordered  his  carriage  for  the  purpofe  of  pro- 
ceeding to  town.     Madame  O implored  him  to 

permit  her  to  accompany  him  ;  in  vain  did  he  be- 
feech  her  to  remain  at  home  •,  the  picture  of  danger 
which  he  painted,  only  rendered  her  more  deter- 
mined.    She  mounted  the  carriage  and  feated  herfelf 


CHAP.  XIIL]  IN    FRANCE.  U5 

by  the  fide  of  her  husband.  When  they  reached  Pa- 
ris,  they  were  flopped  in  the  middle  of  the  flreet  St. 
Honoree,  by  the  mafiacre  of  a  large  number  of  pris- 
oners, who  had  jufl  been  taken  out  of  a  church  which 
had  been  converted  into  a  prifon.  Their  ears  were 
pierced  with  fcreams.  Many  of  the  miserable  vic- 
tims were  cut  down,  clinging  to  the  windows  of  their 
carriage.  During  the  dreadful  delays  which  they 
fuffered  in  palling  through  this    flreet,     Madame 

O- difcovered  no  fenfations  of  alarm,  but  fled- 

faftly  fixed  her  eyes  upon  the  back  of  the  coachbox, 
to  avoid,  as  much  as  poflible,  obferving  the  butcheries 
which  were  perpetrating  on  each  fide  of  her. 

Had  fhe  been  obferved  to  clofe  her  eyes,  or  to  fet 
back  in  the  carriage,  fhe  would  have  excited  a  fuf- 
picion,  which,  no  doubt,  would  have  proved   fatal  to 
her.     At  length  fh<£  reached  the  fchool  which  con- 
tained her  children,    where  fhe  »found  the  rumor 
which  they  had   received  was  without  foundation  ; 
fhe  calmly  conducted  them  to  the  carriage,  and  dur- 
ing their  gloomy  return  through  Paris,  betrayed  no 
emotions  *,  but  as  foon  as  they  had  pafTed  the  barrier, 
and  were  once  more  in  fafety  upon  the  road  to  their 
peaceful  chateau,  the  exulting  mother,   in  an  agony 
of  joy,  prefTed  her  children  to  her  bofom,  and  in  a 
flate  of  mind  wrought  up  to  frenzy,   arrived   at  her 
own  houfe,  in  convulfions  of  ghaflly  laughter.    Mon- 

ficur  O never  fpoke  of  tins   charming  woman, 

Without  exhibiting  theflrongeft  emotions  of  regards 
N 


146  THE   STRANGER  £CHAP.    XIII. 

He  faid,  that  in  ficknefs  fhe  fufFered  no  one  to  attend 
upon  him  but  herfelf,  that  in  all  his  afflictions  fhe 
had  fupported  him,  and  that  fhe  mitigated  the  deep 
melancholy  which  the  fu3*erings  of  his  country,  and 
his  own  privations,  had  fixed  upon  him,  by  the  well- 
timed  f  allies  of  her  elegant  fancy,  or  by  the  charms 
cf  her  various  accomplifhments. 

I  found  myfelf  a  gainer  in  the  article  of  delight,  by 
leaving  the  gayeft  metropolis  that  Europe  can  prefent 
;o  a  traveller,  for  the  fake  of  vifiting  fuch  a  family.  A 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Break/aft. — Warmth  of  French  ExpreJJion* — Rujiic 
Eloquence. — Curious  Caufe  ajfgned for  the  late  extra- 
erdinary  Froft, — Madame  R  ■  — Paul  I. — Ti- 
voli. — Frefcati . 

IN  the  morning  we  breakfafled  in  the  drawing 
I  room,  in  which  the  murderous  myrmidons  of  Robef- 
pierre  had  been  regaled.  It  was  beautifully  fituated. 
Its  windows   )ooked  into   a  grove  which  Monfieur 

O had  formed   of  valuable   American    fhrubs. 

His  youngeft  daughter,  a  beautiful  little  girl,  cf  about 
five  years  of  age,  rather  nattily  entered  tie  room  with 
a  pair  of  tame  wood  pigeons  in  her  hands,  which,  in 
her  eagernefs  to  bring  to  her  father,  fhe  Jiad  too  for- 
cibly prefTed.  who  very  gently  told  her*  it  was  cruel 
to  hurt  her  little  favorites,  more  particularly  as  they 


CHAP.  XIII.]  Ili  FRANCE,  147 

were  a  fpecies  of  bird  which  was  remarkable  for  its 
unoffending  innocence.  The  little  creatifre  burft  ia- 
to  tears,  "  my  little  Harriet,  why  do  you  weep  ?" 
faid  her  father,  kifling  her  white  forehead,  and^preff- 
ing  her  to  him.  "  Why  do  you  rebuke  me  ?"  faid 
the  little  fufferer,  "  when  you  know  I  love  you  fo 
much  that  I  could  kiss  your  naked  heart." 

I  mention  this  circumflance,  to  fhow  how  early  in 
life,  the  French  children  imbibe  the  moft  charming 
expreffions,  by  which  their  more  mature  converfation 
is  rendered  fo  peculiarly  captivating.  During  our 
repaft,  a  circumftance  occurred,  which  produced  an 
unufual  vivacity'amongft  all  the  party,  and  afforded 
a  fpecimen  of  the  talent  and  pleafantry  of  the  French 
people.  The  gardener  entered  with  the  paper,  and 
letters  of  the  day.  .Amongft  them,  was  a  letter 
figwhich  had  been.opened,  appeared  very  much  difor- 
ed,  and  ought  to  have  been  received  upon  the  pre- 
ceding day.     Mons.  O feemed  much  difpleafed, 

and  called  upon  his  man  to  explain  the  matter.  The 
gardener,  who  poffefTed  a  countenance  which  beamed 
with  animation  and  good  humor,  made  a  low  bow,  and 
without  appearing  to  be,  in  the  leaft  degree,  difcon- 
certed,  proceeded  to  unfold  the  affair,  with  the  moft 
playful  ingenuity.  He  flated  that  the  dairy  maid 
was  very  pretty,  that  flie  made  every  body  in  love 
with  her,  and  was  very  much  in  love  herfelf,.  that  fhe 
was  accuftomed  to  receive  a  great  number  of  billet- 
doux,  which,  on  account  of  her  education  having 


118  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIII. 

been  very  far  below  her  incomparable  merits,  fhe  was 
not  able  to  underftand,  without  the  afliftance  of  Ni- 
coleue,  the  groom,  who  was  her  confident,  and  aman- 
uenfis  ;  that  on  the  day  before,  he  gave  her  the  let- 
ter in  queftion^with  directions  to  carry  it  to  his  maf- 
ter,  that  under  the  influence  of  that  thoughtful  ab- 
fence  which  is  faid  to  attend  the  advanced  ftages  of 
the  tender  paffion,  {he  foon  afterwards  conceived  that 
it  was  no  other  than  a  cuftomary  homage  from  one 
of  her  many  admirers,  upon  which  fhe  committed  the 
fuppofed  depository  of  tender  fighs  and  brittle  vows, 
to  the  warm  cuftody  of  her  glowing  bofom,  than 
which,  the  gardener,  (who  at  this  moment  faw  his 
mailer's  eyes  were  engaged  by  ihefullied  appearance 
of  the  letter)  declared  that  nothing  was  fairer  ;  he 
again  proceeded,  by  obferving,  that  in  the  courfe  of 
the  preceding  evening,  as  {he  was  {looping  to  adjufl||i 
her  ftool  in  the  meadow,  the  cow  kicked,  and  the 
epiftle  tumbled  into  the  milk  pail  ;  that  fhe  after- 
wards dried  it  by  the  kitchen  fire,  and  gave  it,  for 
the  reafons  before  affigned,  to  her  confidential  friend 
to  explain  to  her,  who  foon  difcovered  it  to  be  a  let- 
ter of  bufinefs,  addrefTed  to  his  matter,  inftead  of  an 
impaflioned  love  ditty  for  the  tender  Marie  ;  that, 
finally,  all  the  principals  concerned  in  this  unhappy 
affair  were  overwhelmed  with  diftrefs,  on  account  of 
the  fad  difafter,  and  that  the  kitchen  had  loft  all  its 
vivacity  ever  flnce.  No  advocate  could  have  pleaded 
more  eloquently.     All  the  family,  from  its  chief*  to 


.ftfc 


CHAP.  XIII]  IN  FRANCE.  149 

little  Harriet,  wliofe  tears  were  not  yet  dried,  were  in 
a  continual  fit  of  laughter.  The  gardener,  whofe 
face  very  largely  partook  of  the  gaiety  which  he  had 
fo  fuccefsfully  excited,  was  commiffioned,  by  his 
amiable  matter,  to  tell  the  diftrefTed  dairy  maid,  that 
love  always  carried  hi$  pardon  in  his  hand  for  all  his 
offences,  and  that  he  cheerfully  forgave  her,  but  di- 
rected the  gardener,  to  prevent  a  recurrence  of  fimi- 
lar  accidents,  not  again  to  truft  her  with  his  letters  un- 
til the  tender  difeafe  was  radically  removed.  The 
ruftic  orator  gracefully  bowed  j  and  left  us  to  finifh 
our  breakfaft  with  increafcd  good  humour,  and  to 
carry  forgivenefs  and  confolation  to  poor  Marie  and 
all  her  condoling  friends  in  the  kitchen.  Before  we 
had  completed  our  repaft,  a  little  deformed  elderly 
lady  made  her  appearance,  whofe  religion  had  been 
fhaken  by  the  revolution,  into  a  crazy  and  gloomy 
fuperftition.  She  had  fcarcely  feated  herfelf,  before 
Ihe  began  a  very  rapid  and  voluble  comment  upon 
the  change  of  the  times,  and  the  devaluations  which 
the  late  extraordinary  froft  had  committed  upon  the 
vineyards  of  France,  which  fhe  positively  afierted, 
with  the  confidence  which  the  arrival  of  her  tutelar 
faint  with  the  intelligence  ought  to  have  infpired, 
was  fent  as  an  appropriate  judgment  upon  the  repub- 
lic, to  puniih  it,  for  differing  the  ladies  of  Paris  to  go 

fo  thinly  clothed.     Moniieur  0- heard  her  very 

patiently  throughout*  and  then  obferved,  that  the 


150  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.    XIIL 

ways  of  Heaven  were  infcrutable,  that  human  in 
nuity  was  bailed,  in  attempting  to  draw  inferences 
from  its  vifitations,  and  that  it  did  not  appear  to  him 
at  leaft,  that  an  offeree  which  was  affuredly  calculat- 
ed to  infpire  fenfations  of  warmth  and  tendernefs, 
was  appropriately  punifhed  by  chaftifement  of  an  oppo- 
file  tendency,  to  which  he  added,  that  fome  moralift 
who  indulged  in  an  endeavor  to  connect  caufes  and 
effects,  might  think  it  rather  incompatible  with  their 
notions  of  eternal  equity,  to  endeavor  to  clothe  the 
ladies,  by  {tripping  the  land  to  nakednefs-~here  the 
old  lady  could  not  help  fmiling.  Her  amicable  ad- 
verfary  purfued  the  advantage  which  his  pleafantry; 
had  produced,  by  informing  her,  that  prognoftica- 
tions  had  been  for  a  long  period  diicountenanccd, 
and  that  formerly  when  the  ancient  augurs,  after  the 
ceremonies  of  their  faccefsful  illulions  were  over,  m 
each  other  by  accident  in  the  ffreet,  impreffed  by  the 
ridiculous  remembrance  of  their  impositions,  they 
could  not  help  laughing  in  each  other's  faces.  Mad- 
ame V         ■  laughed  too  ;    upon   which  Monfieur 

O ,   very  good  humoredly  told  her,   that  as  a* 

foothfayer,  Die  certainly  would  not  have  fmiled,  nn~ 
lefs  {he  intended  to  retire  forever  from  the  oihee. 
Previous  to  my  taking  leave  of  Monikur  Q  ■  ■  ■  ■  and 
his  charming  family,  we  walked  in  the  gardens,  where: 
our  converfation  turned  upon  the  extraordinary  ge- 
nius, who  in  the  charaaer  of  firft  conful  of  the 
Trench  unites  a  force,  and  extent  of  fway  unknown 


CHAP.  XIIL  IN  FRANCE,  15V 

to  the  kings  of  France,  from  their  jax£t  appearance,  to 
the  final  extinction  of  monarchy. 

He  told  me  that  he  had  the  honor  of  knowing  him 
with  intimacy  from  his  youth,  and  extolled,  with 
high  eulogy,  his  fplendid  abilities,  and  the  great  fer- 
vices  which  he  had  rendered  France.  He  alfo  relat- 
ed feveral  amiable  anecdotes  of  the  minifter  Talley- 
rand, who,  when  in  America,  had  lived  with,  him  a 
considerable  time  under  the  fame  roof. 

At  length  the  cabriolet,  which,  was  to  bear  mc 
from  this  little  Paradife,  approached  the  gate,  and  the 
moment  arrived  when  I  was  to  part  with  one  of  the 
moft  charming  families  to  be  found  the  bofom  of  the 
republic. 

As  Monfteur  O preiTed  me  by  one  hand,  and 

placed  that  of  his  little  Harriet  in  my  other,  a  tear  of 
exquiiite  tendernefs  rolled  down  his  cheek,  it  feemed 
to  exprefs  that  we  fhouid  never  meet  again  on  this 
fide  the  grave.  Excellent  being  !  if  it  muft  be  fo,  if 
wafting  and  unfparing  ficknefs  is  deftinedto  tear  thee 
ere  long  from  thofe  who  delight  thiner  eye,  and. 
foothe  thine  heart  in  the.  midft  of  its  forrows,  may 
the  angel  of  peace  fmile  upon  thee  in  thy  laft.  mo- 
ments, and  bear  thy  mild  and  generous,  and  patient 
fpirit,  to  the  realms  of  eternal  repofe  !  Adieu  !  dear 
femily  of  la  Reine* 

Upon  my  return, to  Parts,  I  proceeded  to  the  hotel! 
of  Mon&eur  XL— «~.    Curiofity  led  ms.  to  view  th% 


15S  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIII. 

houfe,  and  the  celebrated  bed  of  his   lady,  who  was 
then  in  London. 

The  little  vanities  and  eccentricities  of  this  elegant 
and  hofpitable  woman,  will  find  immediate  forgive- 
nefs,  when  it  is  known  that  fhe  is  now  very  young, 
and  was  married,  when  a  fpoiled  child  of  the  age  of 
fourteen  to  her  prefent  hufband.  She  is  one  of  Da- 
vids's  moft  enthufiaftic  admirers,  and  has  carried  the 
rage  for  Grecian  undrefs,  to  an  extremity,  which,  ev- 
en in  the  capital,  left  her  without  a  follower. 

In  the  public  walks  of  the  Champ  Elyfees,  fhe  one 
evening  prefented  herfelf  in  a  drefs  which  almoft 
rivalled  the  robe*;  of  Paradife  •,  the  Pariflans,  who  are 
remarkable  for  their  politenefs  to  women,  and  are 
not  remarkable  for  fcrupulous  fentiments  of  delicacy, 
were  fo  difpleafed  with  her  appearance,  that  they 
made  a  lane  to  the  entrance  for  her,  and  expelled  thev 
modern  Eve  from  the  Elyfian Fields,  not  with  a  "flam- 
ing fword  of  wrath,"  but  with  hhTes  foftly  uttered, 
and  by  gentle  tokens  of  polite  difapprobation.  She 
tells  her  friends,  that  her  cabinet  is  crowded  with 
letters  of  the  moft  impaffioned  love,  from  perfons  of 
the  firft  fame,  diftinction,  and  opulence.  In  her 
parties,  when  converfation  begins  to  paufe,  fhe  intro- 
duces fome  of  thefe  melting  epiftles,  which  £he  is 
£ud  to  read  with  a  bewitching  pathos,  and  never  fails, 
to  clofe  the  fond  recital  by  expreffions  of  the  tender- 
ed pity  for  the  fufferings  of  their  ill-ftarred  authors.. 
Ske.  has  declared,  that  fome  of  her  lovers  equal  the- 


CHAP.  XIII.]  IN   FRANCE.  153 

Belvidere  Apollo  in  beauty,  but  that  fhe  never  has 
yet  ken  that  being,  who  was  perfect  enough  to  be 
entitled  to  the  pofleflion  of  her  affections.      Do   not 

fmiie.     Madame  R is  a  difciple  of  Diana,  even 

flander  pays  inceffant  homage  to  her  chaflity.  Ru- 
mor has  wkifpered,  in  every  corner  of  Paris,  trrat  her 
hufband  is  only  admitted  to  the  honor  of  fupplying 
the  finances  of  her  fplendid  and  coftly  eftablifhment. 

Madame  R has  not  yet  produced  any  of  the 

beautiful,  and  eloquent  arguments  of  Cornelia,  to 
difprove  the  ftrange  affertion.  Her  chamber,  which 
conftitutes  one  of  the  fights  of  Paris,  and  which,  after 
what  has  been  juft  mentioned,  may  be  juftly  confider- 
ed,  in  or  out  of  France,  as  a  great  curiofity,  is  fitted 
up  in  a  ftyle  of  confiderable  talte,  and  even  magnifi- 
cence. The  bed  upon  which  this  charming  ftatue 
repofes,  is  a  fuperb  fofa,  raifed  upon  a  pedeftal,  the 
afcent  to  which  is  by  a  flight  of  cedar  fteps,  on  each 
fide  are  altars,  on  which  are  placed  Herculaneum  va£« 
es  of  flowers,  and  a  large  antique  lamp  of  gold  ;  the 
back  of  the  bed  is  formed  by  an  immenfe  pier  glafs, 
and  the  curtains,  which  are  of  the  moft  coftly  muflin, 
feftooned  with  golden  taflels,  defcend  in  beautiful 
drapery  from  a  floral  crown  of  gold.  It  is  Faid  that 
the  late  emperor  of  Ruffia,  after  the  laborious 
and  fuccefsful  diplomatic  intrigues  of  MefTrs.  Talley- 
rand and  Sieyes,  and  a  certain  lady,  became  enamor- 
ed, by  defcription,  with  the  immaculate  goddefs  of 
Mont  Blanc,  and  that  he  ient  confidential  commit 


lo4f  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIII. 

doners  to  Paris,  to  report  her  daily  drefs,  and  to  or- 
der copies  of  her  furniture. 

The  ftory  may  be  believed,  when  the  hero  cf  it 
was  well  known  to  be  fully  qualified  for  one  of  the 
deepefl  dungeons  of  a  madhoufe.  I  hope,  for  the 
fake  of  fociety,  and  the  repofe  of  the  world,  that  the 

reft  of  Madame  R fs  admirers  have  not  united  to 

their  paffion  the  bewildered  imagination  which  fatal- 
ly diftinguifhed,  and  finally  clofed  the  career  of  her 
imperial  lover. 

Mr.  R is  very  polite  to  the  Englifh,  and   his 

letters  enfure  the  greateft  attentions  wherever  they 
are  produced. 

From  Mont  Blanc  I  proceeded  to  theHotel  de  Car- 
amand,  the  relidence  of  the  Britifh  AmbafTador,  to 
whom  I  had  a  letter  of  introduction,  from  a  particular 
friend  of  his,  and  who  received  me  with  great  polite- 
nefs.  His  apartments  were  handfome,  and  looked 
into  fome  beautiful  gardens.  Amongft  the  Englifh, 
who  were  at  this  time  in  Paris,  a  little  prejudice  exift- 
ed  againft  the  reprefentative  of  the  Britifh  monarch, 
from  a  reafon,  which  within  the  jurifdiction  of  the 
lord  mayor  of  London  and  of  mod  corporate  towns  in 
England,  will  be  confidered  to  carry  confiderable 
weight.  The  envoy  did  not  celebrate  the  late  birth 
day  of  his  fovereign  by  a  jolly,  and  convivial  dinner. 
The  fact  was,  Mr.  M ,  who  by  the  fudden  re- 
turn of  Mr.   J ,  became  unexpectedly  inverted 

with  the  dignity  of  an  ambafTador,  was  in  conftant 


CHAP.  XIII.]  IN  FRANCE.  155 

expectation  of  being  recalled,  to  make  room  for  the 

intended  appointment  of  lord  W to  the  eonfu- 

lar  court,  in  confequence  of  which,  he  had  not  pre- 
pared for  the  difplay  of  thofe  fplendid  hofpitalities, 
which,  oh  fuch. occasions,  always  diftinguifh  the  table 
of  a  Britifh  houfe  of  embafly. 

On  a  Sunday  evening,  I  went  with  a  party  to  Ti- 
voli,  a  favorite  place  of  amufement  with  the  Parifians. 
At  the  entrance  we  found,  as  at  all  the  public  places, 
a  guard  of  horfe,  and  foot.  The  admiffion  is  twenty 
fob.  The  evening  was  very  fine.  We  pafTed  im- 
menfe  crowds  of  people,  who  were  flocking  to  the 
fame  place. — Amongft  them  were  many  elegant,  well 
drefled  women,  wholly  unattended  by  gentlemen,  a 
Ctrcumftance  by  no  means  unufual  in  Paris.  This 
place  feemed  to  be  raifed  by  the  magic  touch  of  en- 
chantment. We  entered  upon  gravelled  walks, 
which  were  cut  through  little  winding  and  interfect- 
ing  hillocks  of  box  ;  thofe  which  formed  the  fides 
were  furmounted  by  orange  trees,  which  prefented  a 
beautiful  colonnade  ;  immediately  after  we  had  pa£. 
,  fed  them,  .we  entered  an  elegant  treillage  of  honey- 
fuckles,  rofes,  and  eglantine,  which  formed  the  grand 
entrance  to  the  garden.  Here  a  mofl  animated  fcene 
of  feftivity  opened  upon  us.  On  one  fide  were  rope 
dancers,  people  riding  at  the  ring,  groups  of  perfons 
playing  at  fhuttlecock,  which  feemed  to  be  the  favor- 
ite, and  I  may  add,  the  mod  ridiculous  diverfion  ;  on 
t&e  other  fide,  were  dancers,  tumblers,  mountebanks^ 


156  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.   XIII. 

and  parties  all  with  gay  countenances,  feated  in  little 
bowers  enjoying  lemonade  and  ices.     In  the  centre  as 
we  advanced,  were  about  three  hundred  people,  who 
were  dancing  the   favorite  waltz.     This   dance  was 
brought  from  Germany,  where,  from  its   nature,  the 
partners  are  always  engaged  lovers  ;  but  the  French, 
who  think  that  nothing  can  be  blamable  which  is 
fufceptible  of  elegance,  have  introduced  the  German 
dance,  without  adhering  to  the  German   regulation. 
The  attitudes  of  the  waltz  are  very  graceful,  but  they 
would  not  altogether  accord  with  Englifh  female  no- 
tions of  delicacy.     At  a  late  fafhionable  Parifian  ball, 
a  gentleman  prefent  was  requeued  by  the  lady  of  the 
houfe,  to  waltz  with  a  friend  of  hers,  who  was  with- 
out a  partner.     The  perfon  of  this  neglected  fair,  t 
a  little  inclined  to  the  meagre.     Tke  gallant,  with- 
out the  lead  embarrarTment,  declined  obferving, "  Ah  ! 
"  ma  chere  Madame  qu'exigez  vous  de  moi,  ne  favez 
"  vous  pas  qu'elle  n'a  point  de  fein  ?"  In  the  middle 
of  the  platform  of  the  dancers,  a  very  fine  full  band 
was  playing.     At  the  end  of  this  raifed  ltage,  a  very 
capacious  Indian  marquee  was  erected,   which  was 
beautifully  illuminated  with  variegated  lamps,  and 
under  its  broad  canopy,  a  large  concourfe  of  people 
was  feated,  fome  were  enjoying  converfation,  fome 
were  playing  at  buillotte,  drinking  coffee,  &c  behind 
this  building,  was  a  noble  Corinthian  temple,  from 
the  doors  of  which,  were  covered  trellis  walks,  lead- 
ing to  fpacious  gardens,  which  were  formed  to  dif- 


CHAP.  XIII-3  IN   FRANCE.  157 

play  the  different  taftes  of  the  Englifh,  French,  and 
Dutch  nations,  whofe  refpefiive  names  they  bore. 
Thefe  gardens  are  interfered  by  little  canals,  upon 
which  feveral  perfons  were  amuung  themfelves  with 
the  diverflon  of  canoe  racing.  The  whole  was  illu- 
minated by  large  patent  reflecting  lamps,  which  fhed 
a  lultre  almoft  as  brilliant  as  the  day.  A  few  Eng- 
lifh were  prefent,  amongft  them  were  the  duchefs  of 
Cumberland,  and  a  few  other  ladies.  Thefe  gardens 
previous  to  the  revolution,  were  the  property  of  a 
wealthy  minifter  of  France,  who,  it  is  faid  expended 
near  one  hundred  thoufand  pounds  flerling,  in  bring- 
ing them  to  perfection,  which  he  juifc  faw  accomplifh- 
ed,  when  he  clofed  his  eyes  upon  the  fcaffokl.  T.ie 
ation  became  their  next  proprietor,  who  fold  them 
for  a  large  fum  of  money  to  their  prefent  owners. 

From  this  place  we  went  to  Frefcati,  which  is  the 
promenade  of  the  firfl  beauty,  and  famion  of  Paris, 
who  generally  afTemble  about  half  pad  ten  o'clock,  af- 
ter the  opera  is  concluded.  No  admifiion  money  is 
required,  but  Angular  as  it  may  feem,  no  improper  in- 
truder has  yet  appeared,  a  circum fiance  which  may  be 
accounted  for  by  the  awe  which  well  bred  fociety 
eve*  maintained  over  vulgarity.  Frercati  is  fituated 
in  the  Italian  Boulevard  ;  was  formerly  the  refidence 
of  a  nobleman  of  large  fortune,  and  has  alfo  under- 
gone the  ufual  tranfition  of  revolutionary  confifc?.tion. 
Tne  clreets  leading  to  it  were  rilled  with  carriages. 
O 


158  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIII. 

After  afcending  a  flight  of  fteps,  from  a  handfome 
court-yard,  we  entered  a  beautiful  hall,  which  was 
lined  with  pier  glafles,  and  decorated  with  feftoons  of 
artificial  flowers,  at  the  end  of  it  was  a  fine  ftatue  of 
Venus  de  Medicis.  On  one  fide  of  this  image  was 
an  arch,  which  led  into  a  fuite  of  fix  magnificent 
apartments,  which  were  fuperbly  gilt ,  painted,  and 
alfo  covered  with  pier  glaffes,  and  luftres  of  fine  dia- 
mond cut  glafs,  which  latter,  looked  like  fo  many  lit- 
tle glittering  cafcades.  Each  room  was  in  a  blaze 
of  light,  and  filled  with  parties,  who  were  taking  ices, 
or  drinking  coSee.  Each  room  communicated  with 
the  others,  by  arches,  or  folding  doors  of  mirrors. 
The  garden  is  fmail,  but  very  taftefully  difpofed.  It 
is  compofed  of  three  walks,  which  are  lined  with  or^ 
ange  and  acacia  trees,  and  vafes  of  rofes.  At  the  en 
is  a  tower  mounted  on  a  rock,  temples,  and  ruftic 
bridges  j  and  on  each  fide  of  the  walks,  are  little  lab- 
yrinth bowers,  On  the  fide  next  to  the  Boulevard, 
is  a  terrace  which  commands  the  whole  fcene,  is  lined 
on  each  fide  with  beautiful  vafes  of  flowers,  and  is  ter- 
minated at  each  end  by  alcoves,  which  are  lined  with 
mirrors. 

Here,  in  the  courfe  of  an  hour,  the  ailonifhed  and 
admiring  flranger,  may  fee  near  three  thoufand  fe- 
males of  the  iirft  beauty  and  diftlnclion  in  Paris, 
whofe  cheeks  are  no  longer  disfigued  by  the  corrofion 
of  rouge,  and  who,  by  their  fymmetry  and  grace, 
would  induce  him  to  believe  that  the  lovelie ft  figures 


CHAP.  XIV.]        IN  FRANCE.  159 

of  Greece,  in  her  proucteft  sera,  were  revived,  and 
moving  before  him. 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Convent  of  blue  Nuns.—Ducheffede  Biron.— The  bloody 
Key.— Courts  of  Juftice.— Public  Library.— G  bel- 
ims.—Mifs  Linwood.— Garden  of  Plants.— French 
Accommodation.— Boot  Cleaners.— Cat  and  Dsg 
Shearers.— Monfieur  S yQnd  Family. 

THE  Englifh  convent,  or  as  it  is  called,  the  con- 
vent of  blue  nuns,  in  the  Rue  de  St.  Vi&oire,  is  the 
only  eftablifhment  of  the  kind,  which  throughout  the 
republic,  has  furvived  the  revolution.    To  what  caufe 
jSU-SXClllfive  prCcC2«0r»  fe  a^riouTaDle,  is  not  T  believe 
^correctly  known.     But  though   this   fpot  of Tacred. 
S  feclufion,  has  efcaped  the  final  ftroke  of  extermina- 
tion, it  has  fuftained  an  ample   fhare  of  the  general 
defolation.     During  the  reign  of  terror  it  was  con- 
verted into  the  crowded  prifon  of  the  female  nobility, 
who  were  confined,  and  afterwards  dragged  from  its 
cloiflers,  and  butchered  by  the    guillotine,  or   the 
daggers  of  the  afTaflins.     I  had  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  Mrs.  S ,  one  of  the  fifterhood,  a  lady  of 

diftinguifhed  family  in  England.  I  found  her  in  the 
refectory.  A  dignified  dejection  overfpread  her 
countenance,  and  her  figure  feemed  much  emaciated 
by  the   fcenes  of  horror  through  which  fhe  had 


!C0  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIV. 

paired.  She  informed  me,  that  when  the  nuns  were 
m  a  ftate  of  arreftation  by  the  order  of  Robefpierre, 
the  convent  was  ib  crowded  with  prifoners,  that  thcy< 
were  obliged  to  eat  their  wretched  meals  in  three 
different  divifions.  The  places  of  the  unhappy  be- 
ings who  were  led  offto  execution,  were  immediately 
filled  by  frefh  victims. 

Amongft  thofe  who  fuffered,  was  the  beautiful 
young  ducheffe  de  Biron,  faid  to  be  one  of  the  love- 
Kefl  women  of  the  French  court.  Her  fate  was  lin- 
gular, and  horrible.  One  morning,  two  of  the  afiift- 
unt  executioners  came  into  one  of  the  rooms,  and 
called  upon  the  female  citizen  Biron  to  come  forward, 
meaning  the  old  ducheffe  de  Biron,  the  mother, 
who  was  here  immured  with  her  daughter  ;  fome 
one  faia,  ~"iich  9*"  them  do  you  require  ?  the  hell- 
hounds replied,  «  Our  order  was  for  one  only,  but 
w  as  there  are  two,  we  will  have  both  that  there 
"  may  be  no  error."  The  mother  and  daughter 
were  taken  away  locked  fenfelefs  in  each  others  arms. 
When  the  cart  which  carried  them  arrived  at  the 
foot  of  the  fcaffold,  the  chief  executioner  locked  at 
his  paper,  which  contained  a  lift  of  his  victims,  and 
faw  the  name  of  only  one  Biron  •,  the  afliftants  in- 
formed him  that  they  found  two  of  that  name  in  the 
convent,  and  to  prevent  miftake,  they  had  brought 
both.  The  principal,  with  perfect  fang  froid,  faid 
it  was  all  well,  wrote  with  his  pencil  the  article  "  les" 
before  the  name  Biron,  to  which  he  added  an  s}  and 
immediately  beheaded  both  !  !  ! 


C&AP.XIV.]  IN   FRANCE.  161 

Mrs.  S -  led  me  to  the  chapel,  to  mow  me  the 

havoc  which  the  unfparing  impious  hands  of  the  rev- 
olution had  there  produced.  She  put  into  my  hancfi 
an  immenfe-  mafly  key  to  open  the  door  of  the  choir. 
"That  key,"  faid  fhe,  "  was  made  for  the  matter 
"  key  of  the  convent,  by  the  order  of  Robefpierre. 
«  In  the  time  of  terror,  our  gaoler  wore  it  at  his  belt. 
«  A  thoufand  times  has  my  foul  funk  within  me, 
"  when  it  loudly  pufhed  the  bolt  of  the  lock  afide. 
«  When  the  door  opened,  it  was  either  a  ftgnal  tojpre- 
M  pare  for  inftant  death  to  fome  of  thofe  who  were 
«  within,  or  for  the  gloomy  purpofe  of  admitting 
«  new  victims."  When  we  entered  the  chapel,  my 
furprife  and  abhorrence  were  equally  excited.  The 
windows  were  beaten  thro',  the  hangings  were  flap- 
ping in  the  wind,  the  altar  was  mattered  in  pieces 
and  proftrate,  the  pavement  was  every  where  torn- 
up,  and  the  caves  of  the  dead  were  ftill  yawnfiRg  upon- 
us.  From  their  folemn  and  hallowed  depths,  the 
mouldering  relics  of  the  departed  had  been  railed, . 
by  torch  light,  and  heaped  in  frightful  piles  ofun- 
finifhed  decay,  againfl  the  walls^  for  the  purpofe  of 
converting  the  lead,  which  contained  thefe  wretched 
fragments  of  mortality  into  balls  for  the  mufketry  of 
the  revolution.'  The  gardens  behind  the  chapel  mufb 
have  been  once  very  pleafant,  but  they  then  had  the ' 
appearance  of  a  wildernefs.  The  painful  uncertainty 
of  many  years,  had  occasioned  the  neglect  and  ruin  in- 
which  I  faw  them,     Some  of-the:nunswere  rcadii 

@;  32 


1G2  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.    XIV. 

upon  fhattered  feats,  under  overgrown  bowers,  and, 
others  walking  in  the  melancholy  fhade  of  neglected 
avenues.  The  effect  of  the  whole  was  gloomy  and 
forrowful,  and  fully  confirmed  the  melancholy  recital 

which  I  received  from  Mrs.  S .     Bonaparte,  it  is 

faid,  intends  to  confirm  to  thefe  nuns  their  prefent 
reiidence,  by  an  act  of  government. 

Upon  leaving  the  convent  I  viiited  the  feats  of 
cafTation,  and  jufHce,  in  the  architectural  arrangement 
of  which,  I  faw  but  little  worthy  of  minute  notice,. 
except  the  perfect  accommodation  which  pervades  all 
the  French  buildings,  which  are  appropriated  to  the 
adminiftration  of  the  laws. 

The  hall  of  the  firft  cafTation,  or  grand  court  of 
appeal,  is  very  fine.  The  judges  wear  elegant  cof-. 
tumes,  and  were,  as  well  as  the  advocates,  featedL  r 
upon  chairs,  which  were  constructed  to  imitate  the 
feats  of  |Roman  magistracy,  and  had  a  good  effect, 
|.was  informed  that  the  whole  of  the  ornamental, 
arrangement  was  deSgned  by  David, 

From  the  courts  of  juftice,  I  went  to  the  ftcond  na- 
tLonallibrary,  which  is  very  noble  and  large.,  and  has. 
a  valuable  collection  of  books..  Several  Itudents  . 
were  arranged  with^  great  filence  and  decorum,  at 
long  tables.  In  one  apartment  is  a  very  large  inge-. 
nious  model  of  Ro.me  in  a  glafs  cafe,  and  another  of  a 
frigate, 

Upon  leaving  the  library  I  proceeded  to  the  Gob- 
elins, fo  called  from  one  Gobel,  a  noted,  dyer  at 


i 


CHAP.  XIV.]         IN  FRANCE,  163 

Rheims,  who  fettled  here  in  the  reign  of  Francis  L. 
This  beautiful  manufactory  has  a  crowd  of  vifitors 
everyday.  Upon  the  wafts  of  the  galleries  the  tap* 
eftry  is  fufpended,  which  exhibits  very  exquhlte 
copies  of  various  hiftorical  paintings,  of  which  there. 
are  fome  very  coftly  and  beautiful  fpecimens.  The, 
artifts  work  behind  the  frame,  where  the  original 
from  which  they  copy  is,  placed.  The  whole  is  a 
very  expensive  national  eftablifhment,  much  of  its- 
•production  is  prefervedfor  prefents  to  foreign  princes?N 
and  fome  of  it  is  difpofed  of  by  public  file. . 

Upon  the  comparifon  between  the  works  of  the 
Gobelins  and  the  beautiful  works  of  Mifs  Linwood^. 
Iv  could  not  help  feeling  a. little  degree  of  pride  to  ob-?. 
ferve  that  my  ingenious  country  woman  did  not  ap- 
pear to  fuffer  by  it.  Too  much  praife  cannot  be  be- 
ftpwed  upon  the  tafteful  paintings  of  her  exquhlte 
needle.  This  elegant  minded  woman  has  mwiifeftecl 
by  her  charming  exhibition  that  great  genius  is  not 
always  feparated  from  great  labor,  and  unwearied 
perfeveranee* 

From  the  Gobelins  I  -viuted  the  garden  of  plants,, 
which  is  coniidered  to  be  the  largeffc  and  mod  valu-. 
able  botannical  collection  in  Europe,  and, was  found-, 
ed  by  the,  celebrated  Buffon.  The  garden  is  laid  out 
in  noble  walks,  and  beds  containing  the. rareft  plants 
from  all  parts  of  the  world,  each  of  which  is  neatly 
labelled  for  the  ufe  of  ftudents.  On  the  right  of  the 
entrance  is  a  park  containing  all  forts  of  deer,  and  ofc- 


W*  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIV. 

the  left  are  vaft  hothoitfes  and  greenkoufes  j  and  in 
the  centre,  inclofed  in  iron  lattice  work,  is  a  large 
pond  for  the  reception  of  foreign  aquatic  animals, 
*ery  near  which  is  a  large  Octagon  experimental 
beehive,  about  ten  feet  high,  and  at  the  end,  near 
the  banks  of  the  Seine,  is  a  fine  menagerie,  in  which 
amongft  other  beafts,  there  are  fome  noble  lions. 
Many  of  the  animals  have  feparate  houfes  and  gardens 
to  range  in.  Adjoining  is  the  park  of  the  elephant. 
This  ftupendous  animal,  from  the  ample  fpaee  in 
which  he  moves,  is  feen  to  great  advantage,  and  is 
confidered  to  be  the  largeft  of  his  fpeeies  in  Europe. 
Near  the  entrance  on  the  right,  is  the  mufeum  of 
natural  curiofities,  the  collection  of  which  is  very 
valuable,  and  admirably  arranged.  There  is  here  a 
fine  giraffe,  or  camelopard,  of  an  amazing  height, 
ftufFed.  This  furprifing  animal  is  a  native  of  Ethio- 
pia, and*fome  other  parts  of  Africa,  and  has  fcarcely 
ever  been  feen  in  Europe. 

From  the  garden  of  plants,  I  made  all  poflible  dif- 

patch  to  Madame  C 's  in  the  Boulevard  Italien, 

where  I  was  engaged  to  dinner.. 

Upon  crofting  the  Pont  Neuf,  where  there  are  a 
number  of  little  ftalls  erected,  the  owners  of  which 
advertife  upon  little  boards,  which  are  raifed  upon  i 
poles,  that  they  poffefs  extraordinary  talents  for 
(Hearing  dogs  and  cats  ;  I  could  not  help  flopping 
and  laughing  moft  heartily  to  obferve  the  following 
addrefs  Lo  the  public  from  one  of  thefe  canine  ; 
grimalkin  functionaries  ; 


CHAP.  XIV.]  IN  FRANCE.  165 

<£  Monin,  tondit  ct  coupe 
*»  les  chiens  la  chatte 
"  ct  fa  femme  ■ 
"  vat  en  ville." 

Which  runs  in  this  ridiculous  manner  in  Englifh : 

"  Monin  fhears  and  cuts 

"  dogs  and  cats  and  his  wife— — — 

u  goes  on  errands." 

As  I  had  no  time  to  return  to  my  hotel  to  drefs,  I 
was  initiated  into  a  mode  of  expeditioufly  equipping 
myfelf,  by  a  young  friend  who  was  with  me,  to  which 
I  was  before  a  ftranger,  and  which  fhows  in  the  moft 
trifling  matters,  that  the  French  are  good  adepts  in 
expedition  and  accommodation.     In  palling  through 
the  Palais  Royal,  we  entered  the  little  mop  of  a  boot 
cleaner.     In  a  moment  I  was  mounted  upon  a  dirty 
fopha,  to  which  I  afcended  by  fteps,  and  from  which 
I  had  a  complete  commanding  view  of  the  concourfe 
of  gay  people,  who  are  always  paffing  and  repaying 
in  this  idle  place  ;  the  paper  of  the  day,  ftretched  up- 
on a  little  wrooden  frame  was  placed  in  my  hand,  each 
Jfoot  was  fixed  upon  an  iron  anvil,  one  man  brufhed 
off  the  dirt,  and  another  put  on  a  mining  blacking,  a 
third  brufhed  my  clothes,  and  a  fourth  prefented  a 
bafin  of  water  and  towel  to  me.     The  whole  of  this 
comfortable  operation  lafted  about  four  minutes.    My 
dirty  valets  made  me  a  low  bow  for  four  fols,  which, 


im  THTE  STftANGEB.  [CH4F.  XIV. 

poor  as  the  recompenfe  was,  exceeded  their  expecta- 
tions by  three  pieces  of  that  petty  coin. 

In  the  evening,  I  had  the  happinefs  of  being  intro- 
duced to  Monfieur  S .  Under  his  noble  and  hof- 

pitable  roof,  amidft  his  affectionate,  beautiful,  and 
accomplifhed  family,  and  in  the  felect  circle  of  his  ele- 
gant  and  enlightened  fociety,  I  paffed  many  happy 
hours.    Monfieur  S. —  was  of  a  noble  family,  and  pre- 
vious to  the  revolution  was  one  of  the  fermiers  gene- 
rauxj  and  poffeffed  a  very  noble  fortune.     In  difchar- 
ging  the  duties   of  his  diftinguifhed  and  lucrative 
office,  he  conciliated  the  affections  of  every  one,  who 
had  the  good  fortune  to  be  comprehended  within  the 
compafs  of  his  honorable  authority,   and  when  the 
revolution  ftripped  him  of  it,  it  found  his  integrity 
without  a  ftain,  except  what  in  the  bewildered  inter- 
pretation of  republican  fury,  adhered  to  him  from  his 
connection  with  the  old  eftablifhed  order  of  things. 
In  the  general,  and  undiftinguifhed  cry  for  ?  ' 
which  yelled  from  the  remorfelefs  affaf  ?  nof^VvObef- 
pierre,  this  admirable  man  was  configned  to  a, dun- 
geon, and  doomed  to  the  fcaffold.    Two  hours  before 
he  was  to  fuffer,  the  remembrance  of  the  noble  victim, 
and  of  a  feries  of  favors,  of  kindnefs,  and  of  generofity, 
fiafhed  with  momentary  but  irrefiftible  compunction, 
upon  the  mind  of  one  of  his  fanguinary  judges,  who, 
fufpending  the  bloody  proceedings  which    then   oc- 
cupied the  court,  implored  the  compaiEon  of  his  fell 
affociates.     He  pleaded  until  he  had  obtained  his 


CHAP.  XIV.]  IN  FRANCE.  I67 

difcharge,  and  then  at  once  forgetting  the  emotions 
of  mercy,  which  had  infpired  his  tongue  with  the 
moft  perfuafive  eloquence,  he  very  compofedly  re- 
fumed  the  functions  of  his  cruel  occupation,  and  con- 
signed to  the  fatal  inftrument  of  revolutionary  {laugh- 
ter, other  beings,  whofe  virtues  were  lefs  renowned, 
or  lefs  fortunate  in  their  fphere  of  operation.  Mon- 
fieur  S-»  ■  ■  had  reached  his  fixtyweighth  year,  but 
feemed  to  pofTefs  all  the  vivacity  and  health  of  youtho 
His  lady  was  a  very  amiable,  and  enlightened  woman. 
Their  family  confuted  of  a  fon,  and  three  daughters, 
all  of  them  handforne,  and  very  highly  accomplished. 

The  eldeft,  Madame  E ,  excelled  in  muiic  ;  the 

fecond,  Madame  B ,  in  poetry  and  the  dailies  ; 

and  the  youngeft,  Mademoifelle  Delphine,  in  drawing 
and  finging.  I  mall,  perhaps,  be  pardoned  for  in- 
troducing a  little  impromtu  compliment,  winch  the 
pure,  and  unafTuming  merits  of  the  youngeft  of  the 
family,  drew  from  my  pen,  in -confequence  of  the  con- 
fopaa,  v-^n<a  evening,  turning  upon  the  indecorum 
of  the  tum?^'0  is,  amongft  the  elegantes  of  Paris, 

TO  MADEMOISELLE  D.    S. 

Whi!ft  art  array 'd  in  tunic  robe 
Tries  over  fafhion'js. gaudy  globe, 
To  hold  refiftlefs  force, 
Thy  merits  (hall  impede  her  CQurfe, 
For  grace  and  nature  gain  hi  thee, 
A  chafk;  d«cifive  victory. 


t$S  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XLV* 

From  the  general  wreck  of  poverty  Monfkur  S— ~ 
has  been  fortunate  enough  to  fave  a  confiderable  por- 
tion of  his  former  fortune,  A  fimilar  favorable  cir- 
cumftance  has,  in  general,  rewarded  the  fortitude  and 
conftancy  of  thofe  who,  in  the  political  florin,  refufed 
to  feeka  daftard  fafety  by  flight.  Influenced  by  the 
reputation  of  the  integrity,  talents  and  experience  of 
Monfieur  S ,  the  firft  conful  has  defervedly  pla- 
ced him  at  the  head  of  the  national  accounts,  which 
he  manages  with  great  advantage,  and  honor  to  the 
government.  I  was  prefTed  to  make  this  charming 
houfe  my  home.  Upon  a  noble  terrace,  which  com- 
municated with  the  drawing  room,  and  commanded  a 
view  of  all  the  gaiety,  and  fafhion  of  the  Italien  Bou- 
levard, which  moved  below  us,  in  the  circle  of  fome 
of  the  moft  charming  people  of  Paris,  we  ufed  to  en- 
joy the  refreshing  coolnefs  of  the  evening,  the  graceful 
unpremeditated  dance,  or  the  founds  of  enchanting 
mufic.  In  this  happy  fpot  all  parties  affembled. 
Thofe  who  had  been  divided  by  the  feroci.y  of  politics, 
here  met  in  amicable  intercourfe.  I  hJ?e  in  the  fame 
room  obferved,  the  once  purfuing  republican  conquer- 
er,  in  focial  converfe,  with  the  captive  Vendeean 
general,  who  had  fubmitted  to  his  prowefs,  and  to  the 
government.  The  fword  was  not  merely  (heathed 
— it  was  concealed  in  flowers.  To  pleafe,  and  to  be 
pleafed  ;  to  charm,  and  to  enlighten,  by  interchanges 
of  pleafantry,  and  politenefs,  and  talents,  and  acquir- 
ments  feemed  alone  to  occupy  the  generous  minds  of 


CHAP.  XV.]  IN  FRANCE.  169 

this  charming  fociety.  The  remembrance  of  the 
hours  which  I  pafled  under  this  roof,  will  afford  my 
mind  delight,  as  long  as  the  faculty  of  memory  re- 
mains, or  until  high  honor,  and  munificent  hofpitali- 
ty  have  loft  their  value,  and  genius  and  beauty,  pu- 
rity and  elegance  have  no  longer  any  attractions. 

CHAP.  XV. 

Civility  of  a  Sentinel. — The  Hall  of  the  Legifative  Jf- 
.fembfc—Britifh  Houfe  of  Commons. — Captain  Be r- 
geret. — The  Temple. — -Sir  Sidney  Smith's  Efcape.— 
Colonel  Phelipeauw 

ONE  morning,  as  t  was  eritering  the  grand  court 
t>f  the  hall  of  the  Legislative  AfTembly,  I  was  ftop* 
ped  by  a  centry.  I  told  him  I  was  an  Englishman* 
He  politely  begged  my  pardon,  and  requefted  me  to 
TpaTs,  and  called  one  of  the  ho'ufekeepers  to  mow  me 
'the  apartments, 

This  magnificent  pile  is  in  the  ¥auxhourg  St.  Getf* 
main,  and  was  formerly  the  palace  of  the  Bourbons 
After  pairing  through  a  fuite  of  fplendid  apartments, 
I  entered,  through  lofty  folding  doors,  into  the  hall, 
where  the  legiflators  afiemble.  It  is  a  very  fpacious 
Temicircular  room,  and  much  refembles,  in  its  ar- 
rangements, the  appearance  of"  a  fplendid  theatre  be- 
fore the  flage.  The  afcent  of  the  feat  of  the  prefi- 
clent  is  by  a  flight  of  light  marble  fepsj  the  facing 
P 


170  THE  "STRANGER  [CHAF.    XV. 

of  his  bureau  is  compcfed  of  the  moil  coftly  marblec 
richly  carved.  On  each  fide  of  the  prefident's  chair 
are  feats  for  the  fecretaries  •,  and  immediately  below 
them  is  the  tribune,  into  which  the  orator  afcends  to 
addrefs  the  Houfe.  On  each  fide  of  the  feat  of  the 
prefident  are  antique  fratues  of  eminent  patriots  and 
orators,  which  are  placed  in  niches  in  the  wall.  Un- 
der the  tribune,  upon  the  centre  of  the  floor,  is  the 
altar  of  the  country,  upon  whkh,  in  marble,  is  rep- 
yefented  the  book  of  the  laws,  refting  upon  branches 
of  olive.  Behind  it,  upon  femicircular  feats,  the  leg- 
iflators  fit,  at  the  back  of  whom  are  the  boxes  of  the 
ambafTadors  and  officers  of  ftate,  and  immediately 
above  them,  within  a  colonnade  of  Corinthian  pillars 
the  public  are  admitted.  Round  the  upper  part  of 
the  cornice  a  beautiful  feftoon  of  lilac  colored  cloth, 
looped  up  with  rich  tafTels,  is  fufpended,  for  the  pur- 
pofe  of  correcting  the  vibration  of  the  voice.  The 
whole  is  very  fuperb,  and  has  coft  the  nation  an  im- 
menfe  fum  of  money.  The  principal  houfekeeper 
afked  me  "  whether  our  fpeakers  had  iuch  a  place  to 
"  declaim  in,"  I  told  him,  "  that  we  had  very  great 
U  orators  in  England,  but  that  they  were  content  to 
«  fpeak  in  very  little  places."  He  laughed,  and  ob- 
ferved,  "  that  Frenchmen  never  talked  to  fo  much 
"  advantage  as  when  their  eye  was  pleafed." 

This  man  I  found  had  been  formerly  one  of  the 
doorkeepers  of  the  national  afTembly,  and  was  prefent 
when,  after  having  been  impeached  by  Billaud,  Pa- 
nis^and  their  Colleagues,  Tallinn  difcharged  his  pif- 


CHAP.    XV.]  IN    FRANCS.  1'7# 

tol  at  Robefpierre,  whom  he  helped  to  fupport,  un- 
til  the  monfter  was  finally  difpatched  by  the  guillo- 
tine, on  the  memorable  9th  Thermidor. 

The  French  are  amazingly  fond  of  finery  and  ftage 
effect.  The  folicitude  which  always  firfl:  manifefied 
itfelf  after  any  political  change  in  the  courfe  o£  the 
revolution,  was  the  external  decoration  of  each  new 
puppet,  who,  arrayed  in  the  brief  authority  of  the 
fleeting  moment,  was  permitted  to  "  play  his  fanta£» 
" tic  tricks  before  high  Heaven." 

The  poor  battered  ark  of  government  was  leftover- 
turned,  under  the  protection  of  an  efcort  of  aflaflins,. 
in  the  enfanguined  mud,  upon  the  reeking  bodies,  of 
its  former,  headlefs  bearers,  until  its  new  fupporters 
had  adjuftcd  the  rival,  pretentions  of  filk  and  fatin,. 
and  had  confulted  the  pattern  book  of  the  laceman 
in  the  choice  of  their  embroidery.  On  one  fide  of 
the  arch  which  leads  into  the  antiroom  of  the  legifla- 
tive  anembly,  are  fufpended  patterns  and  defigns  for 
tickets  of  admiifion  to  the  fitting,  elegantly  framed, 
and  near  the  fame  place,  in  a  long  gallery  which  lead$ 
to  the  drafting-rooms,  of  the  legislators,  are  boxes 
which  contain  the  fenatorial  robes  of  the  members. 
The  meetings  of  our  houfe  of  commons  would  infpire 
more  awe,  and  veneration,  if  more  attention  was  paid 
to  decorum,  and  external  decoration.  A  dignified 
and  manly  magnificence  would  not  be  unfuitable  to 
the  proceedings  of  the  fanctuary  of  Britifh  laws,  and 
the  feat  of  unrivalled  eloquence.  "What  would  a  per-- 
fumed  French  legiflator  fay,  aecuitomed  to  rife  in 


172  THE  STRANGER  [GHAP.  XV. 

the  ruflling  of  embroidered  filks,  and  gracefully  hold- 
ing in  his  hand,  a  cap  of  foft  and  fhowy  plumes,  to  ad- 
drefs  himfelf  to  alabafter  ftatues,  glittering' luftres, 
Grecian  chairs,  feftoons  of  drapery,  and  an  audience 
of  beings  tricked  out  as  fine  as  himfelf,  were  he  to  be 
fuddenly  tranfported  into  a  poor  and  paltry  room, 
meanly  lighted,  badly  ventilated,  and  inconveniently 
arranged,  and  to  be  told  that,  in  that  fpot,  the  repre- 
fentative  of  the  firft  nation  in  the  world,  legiflated 
for  her  fubjecls  ?  What  would  he  fay,  were  he  to  fee 
and  hear  in  the  mean  attire  of  jockies  and  mechan- 
ics, fuch  orators  as  Greece  and  Rome  never  faw  or 
heard  in  the  days  of  their  moft  exalted  glory;  un- 
folding with  the  penetration  of  a  fubordinate  Provi- 
dence, the  machinations  of  a  dark  and  deep  confpira- 
cy,  erecting  elaborate  laws  to  fhelter  the  good,  againft 
the  enemies  of  repofe,  or  hurling  the  thunder  of  their 
eloquence  againft  the  common  foes  of  their  country. 
The  aftonifhed  Frenchman  would  very  likely  fay,  "  I 
"  always  thought  that  the  Englifh  were  a  ftrange  fet 
«  of  beings,  but  theynow  exceed  the 'powers  of  my 
<f  comprehenfion,  they  can  elicit  wit  in  the  midft  of 
«  gloom,  and  can  fay  fuch  things  in  a  plain  unbrufh- 
"  ed  coat  of  blue  cloth,  as  all  the*Yobes,  plumes,  an.1 
"  finery  of  the  republic,  in  her  gaudy  halls  of  delib- 
eration, cannot  infpire." 

From  the  legiflative  affembly  I  went  to  pay  my  ref- 
pecls  to  the  gallant  Capt.  Bergeret,  to  whom  I  had  let- 
ters of  introduction.  It  will  be  immediately  remember- 
ed, that  this  diitinguifhed  hero,  in  the  Virgmie,  dif- 


CHAP.  XV.]  IN  FRANCE.  173 

played  the  mod  undaunted  courage/  when  fhe  was 
engaged  by  Sir  Edward  Pellew,  in  the  Indefatigable, 
to  whofe  fuperior  prowefs  and  naval  knowledge,  he 
was  obliged  to  ftrike  the  tricolor  flag.  His  bravery 
and  integrity  have  juftly  entitled  him  to  the  admira- 
tion and  lafting  friendship  of  his  noble  conqueror, 
and  to  the  efteem  of  the  Britilh  nation.  When  Sir 
Sidney  Smith  was  confined  in  the  Temple,  and  cap- 
tain Bergeret  a  prifoner  in  England,  the  latter  was 
fent  to  France  upon  his  parole,  to  endeavor  to  effecT: 
the  exchange  of  Sir  Sidney.  The  French  govern- 
ment, which  was  then  under  the  direction  of  iome  of 
the  bafeft  and  meaneft  of  her  tyrants,  refufed  to  Uflen 
to  thepropofal ;  and  at  the  fame  time  refitted  the. 
return  of  their  own  countryman. . 

The  gallant  Bergeret  was  refolved  to  preferve  his 
word  of  honor  unfullied,.or  to  perifh  in  the  attempt* 
Finding  all.  his  efforts  to  obtain  the  liberation  of  the 
illuftrious  captive  unavailing,,  menaced  with  death  if 
he  departed,  and  invited  by  promifed  command  and  ! 
promotion  if  he. remained,,  he.  contrived  to  quit  his , 
own  country  by  ftealth,  and  returned  a  voluntary  exile ; 
to  his  generous  and  confiding  conquerors. . 

From  captain  B 's  hotel  I  went  to  the  Temple 

fo  celebrated  in  the  gloomy  hiftory  of  the  resolution. . 
It  ftands  in  the  Rue  du  Temple,  in  the  Fauxbourg^of 
that  name.     The  entranced  handfome,  and  does  not 
much  imprefs  the  idea  of  the  approach  to  a  place  of : 
fuch  confinement. .  Over  the  gates  is  a  pp!e>  iiipport- - 
P  2, 


174  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.    XV. 

ing  a  dirty  and  tattered  bonnet  rouge,  of  which  ioe- 
cies  of  republican  decoration  there  are  very  few  now 
to  be  feen  in  Paris.  The  door  was  opened  to  me  by 
the  principal  goaler,  whofe  predecefTor  had  been  dif- 
miffed  on  account  of  his  imputed  connivance  in  the 
efcape  of  Sir  Sidney  Smith.  His  appearance  feemed 
fully  to  qualify  him  for  his  favage  office,  and  to  in- 
fure  his  fuperiors  againft  all;future  apprehenfion,  of  a 
remiflion  of  duty  by  any  act  of  humanity,  feeling,  or 
commiferation.  He  told  me,  that  he  could  not  per- 
mit me  to  advance  beyond  the  lodge,  on  account  of  a 
peremptory  order  which  he  had  juit  received  from 
government.  From  this  place  I  had  a  full  command  of 
the  walk  and  prifon,  the  latter  of  which  is  fituated  in 
the  centre  of  the  walls.  He  pointed  out  to  me  the 
window  of  the  room  in  which  the  royal  fufferers  lan- 
guifhed.  As  the  ftory  of  Sir  Sidaey  Smith's  ef- 
cipe  from  this  prifon  has  been  involved  in  fome  am- 
biguity, a  fhort  recital  of  it  will,  perhaps,  not  prove 
iminterefting. 

After  feveral  months  had  rolled  away,  fince  the 
gates  of  his  prifon  had  firii  clofed  upon  the  Britiih 
hero,  he  obferved  that  a  lady  who  lived  in  an  upper 
apartment  on  the  oppofite  fide  of  the  fcreet  feemed 
frequently  to  look  towards  that  part  of  the  prifon  in 
which  he  was  confined.  As  often  as  he  obferved  her, he 
played  fome  tender  air  upon  his  flute,  by  which,  and  by 
imitating  every  motion  which  fhe  made,  he  at  length 
fuccee  Jed  in  fixing  her  attention  upon  him,  and  had 


CHAP.  XV.]  IN  FRANCE.  176 

the  happinefs  of  remarking  that  (he  occaflonally  ob- 
ferved  him  with  a  glafs..  One  morning  when  he  faw 
that  fhe  was  looking  attentively  upon  him  in  this 
manner,  he  tore  a  blank  leaf  from  an  old  mafs  book 
which  was  lying  in  his  cell,  and  with  the  foot  of  the 
chimney,  contrived,  by  his  finger,  to  defcribe  upon 
it,  in  a  large  character,  the  letter  A,  which  he  held 
to  the  window  to,  be  viewed  by  his  fair  Sympathizing 
obferver.  After  gazing  upon  it,  for  fome  little  time 
{lie  nodded,  to  {how  that  {he  underftood  what  he 
meant,  Sir  Sidney  then  touched  the  top  of  the  firft 
bar  of  the  grating  of  his  window,  which  he  wifhed  her 
to  confider  as  the  reprefentative  of  the  letter  A,  the 
fecond  B,  and  fc  on,  until  he  had  formed,  from  the 
top  of  the  bars,  a  corresponding  number  of  letters  -, 
and  by  touching  the  middle,  and  bottom  parts  of 
them,  upon  a  line  with  each  other,  he  eafily,  after 
having  inculcated  the  firfl  impreffion  of  his  wifhes. 
completed. a  telegraphic  alphabet.  The  procefs  of 
communication  was  from  its.  nature,  very  flow,  but 
Sir  Sidney  had  the  happinefs  of  obferving,  upon 
forming  the  firft  word,  that  this  excellent  being,  who 
beamed  before  him  like  a  guardian  angel,  feemed 
completely  to  comprehend  it,  which  {he  expreffed  by 
an  afTenting  movement  of  the  head.  Frequently 
obliged  to  defift  from  this,  tacit  and  tedious  inter- 
courfe,  from  the  dread  of  exciting  the  curiofity  of  the 
goalers,  or  his  fellow  prifoners,  who  were  permitted 
to  walk  before  his  window,  Sir  Sidney  occupied  fev- 
eral  days  in  communicating  to  his  unknown  friend. 


176  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.XV,. 

his  name  and  quality,  and  imploring  her  to  procure 
fome  unfufpecled  royalift  of  confequence  and  addrefs 
fufScient  for  the  undertaking,  to  effect  his  efcape  ;  in 
the  achievment  of  which  he  aflured  her,  upon  his 
word  of  honor,  that  whatever  coft  might  be  incurred, 
would  be  amply  reimburfed,  and  that  the  bounty  and 
gratitude  of  his  country  would  nobly  remunerate  thofe 
who  had  the  talent,  and  bravery  to  accomplifh  it.  By 
the  fame  means  he  enabled  her  to  draw  confidential 
and  accredited  bills,  for  confiderable  fums  of  money, 
for  the  promotion  of  the  fcheme,  which  fhe  applied  - 
with  the  moft  perfect  integrity.  Colonel  Phelipeau'x 
was  at  this  time  at  Paris  ;  a  military  man  of  rank,  and 
afecret  royalift,  moft  devoutly  attached  to  the  for- 
tunes of  the  exiled  family  of  France,  and  to  thofe  who 
fupported  their  caufe.  He  had  been  long  endeavoring 
to  bring  to  maturity,  apian  for  facilitating  their  refto- 
ration,  but  which  the.  loyal  adherent,  from  a  feries  of 
untoward  and  uncontrollable  circumftances,  began  to 
defpair  of  accomplifliing.  The  lovely  deliverer  of 
Sir  Sidney,  applied  to  this  diftinguifhed  character,  to 
whom  fhe  was  known,  and  ftated  the  iingular  corref- 
pondence  which  had  taken  place  between  herfelf  and 
the  heroic  captive  in  the  temple.  Phelipeaux,  who 
was  acquainted  with  the  fame  of  Sir  Sidney,  and.cha-  - 
grined  at  the  failure  of  his  former  favorite  fcheme, , 
embraced  the  prefent  project  with  a  fort  of  prophetic, 
enthufiafm,  by  which  he  hoped  to  reftore,  to  the 
Britiih  nation,  one  of  her  greateft  heroes,  who,  by  his 
ikill  and  Valor*  might  once  more  imprefs  the  common 


CHAP.  XV.]  IN    FRANCE.  177 

enemy  with  difmay,  augment  the  glory  of  his  country, 
and  cover  himfelf  with  the  laurels  of  future  victory. 
Intelligent,  active,  cool,  daring,  and  infinuating,  Col. 
Phelipeaux  immediately  applied  himfelf  to  bring  to 
maturity,  a  plan  at  once  fuitable  to  his  genius,  and  in- 
terfiling to  his  wifhes.  To  thofe  whom  it  was  ne- 
cefTary  to  employ  upon  the  occasion,  he  contrived  to 
unite  one  of  the  clerks  of  the  minifter  of  the  police, 
who  forged  his  fignature  with  exact  imitation,  to  an 
order  for  removing  the  body  of  Sir  Sidney,  from  the 
Temple  to  the  prifon  of  the  Conciergerie  :  after  this 
was  accomplished,  on  the  day  after  that  on  which  the 
infpector  of  goals  was  to  vifit  the  Temple  and  Concier- 
gerie,  a  ceremony,  which  is  performed  once  a  month 
in  Paris,  two  gentlemen  of  tried  courage  and  addrefs, 
who  were  previously  inftructed  by  colonel  Phelipeaux, 
difguifed  as  officers  of  the  marechaufTee,  prefented 
themfelves  in  a  fiacre  at  the  Temple,  and  demanded 
the  delivery  of  Sir  Sidney,  at  the  fame  time  mowing 
the  forged  order  for  his  removal.  This  the  goaler  at- 
tentively perufed  and  examined,  as  well  as  the  minis- 
ter's fignature.  Soon  after  the  register  of  the  prifon 
informed  Sir  Sidney  of  the  order  of  the  directory, 
upon  hearing  which,  he  at  firft  appeared  to  be  a  little 
difconcerted,  upon  which  the  pfeudo- officers  gave  him 
every  affurance  of  the  honor  and  mild  intentions  of 
the  government  towards  him,  Sir  Sidney  feemed  more 
reconciled,  packed  up  his  clothes,  took  leave  of  his 
fellow  prifoners,  and  difiributed  Uttle  tokens  cf  hk 


178  THE    STRANGER  £CKAP.    Xtf. 

gratitude  to  thofe  fervants  of  the  prifon,frcm  whom 
he  had  experienced  indulgences.  Upon  the  eve  of 
their  departure,  the  regifter  obferved,  that  four  of  the 
prifon  guard  fliould  accompany  them.  This  arrange- 
ment menaced  the  whole  plan  with  immediate  diflb- 
lution.  The  officers,  without  betraying  the  leaft  emo- 
tion, acquiefced  in  the  propriety  of  the  meafure,  and 
gave  orders  for  the  men  to  be  called  out,  when,  as  if 
recollec*ting  the  rank  and  honor  of  their  illuftrious 
prifoner,  one  of  them  addrefled  Sir  Sidney,  by  faying, 
*  citizen,  you  are  a  brave  officer,  give  us  your  parole, 
"and  there  is  no  occafion  for  an  efcort."  Sir  Sidney 
replied,  that  he  would  pledge  his  faith,  as  an  offices, 
to  accompany  them,  without  refinance,  wherever  they 
chofe  to  conduct  him* 

Not  a  look  or  movement  betrayed  the  intention  of 
the  party.  Every  thing  was  cool,  well-timed,  and 
natural.  They  entered  a  fiacre,  which,  as  is  ufual,, 
was  brought  for  the  purpofe  of  removing  him,  in 
which  he  fouud  changes  of  clothes,  falfe  paflports,  and 
money.  The  coach  moved  with  an  accuftomed  pace 
to  the  Fauxbourg  St.  Germain,  where  they  alighted, 
and  parted  in  different  directions.  Sir  Sidney  met 
Colonel  Phelipeaux  at  the  appointed  fpot  of  rendez- 
vous. 

The  project:  was  fo  ably  planned  and  conducted, 
that  no  one  but  the  party  concerned  was  acquainted 
with  the  efcape,  until  near  a  month  had  elapfed, 
when  the  infpector  paid  his  next  periodical  vifit.  What 
pen  can  defcribe  the  fenfations  of  two  fuch  men  as. 


-QUA?.  XV.]  Itf   FB.ANCE.  1?$ 

Sir  Sidney  and  Phelipeaux,  when  they  firft  beheld 
each  other  in  fafety  ?  Heaven  befriended  the  gener- 
ous and  gallant  exploit.  Sir  Sidney  and  his  noble 
friend,  reached  the  French  coaft  wholly  unfufpected, 
and  committing  themfelves  to  their  God,  and  to  the 
protective  genius  of  brave  men,  put  to  fea  in  an  open 
boat,  and  were  foon  afterwards  difcovered  by  an  En- 
glifh  cruifing  frigate,  and  brought  in  fafety  to  -the 
Britifh  fhores. 

The  gallant  Phelipeaux  foon  afterwards  accompan- 
ied Sir  Sidney  in  the  Tigre  to  Acre,  where,  over- 
whelmed by  the  fatigue  of  that  extraordinary  canw 
paign,  in  which  he  fupported  a  diftinguifhed  part, 
and.  the  noxious  influence  of  a  fultry  climate,  operat- 
ing upon  a  delicate  frame,  he  expired  in  the  arms  of 
his  illuftrious  friend,  who  attended  him  to  his  grave, 
and  fhed  the  tears  of  gratitude  and  friedfhip  over  his 
honored  and  lamented  obfequies.  But  ere  the  dying 
Phelipeaux  clofed  his  eyes,  he  received  the  rewards 
of  his  generous  enterprife.  He  beheld  the  repulfed 
legions  of  the  republic,  flying  before  the  Britifh  ban- 
ners, and  the  irrefiflible  prowefs  of  his  valliant  com- 
panion •,  he  beheld  the  diflinguifhed  being,  whom  he 
.>  had  thus  refcued  from  a  dungeon,  and  impendiug  de- 
ftruc"rion,  by  an  act  of  almoft  romantic  heroifm,  cov- 
ered with  the  unparticipated  glory,  of  having  over- 
powered a  leader,  who,  renowned,  and  long  accuftom- 
ed  to  coriqueft,  faw,  for  the  firft  time,  his  invincible 
troops  give  way  ;  who,  inflamed  to  defperation,  deem- 
ed the  perilous  expofure  «f  his  .perfboi  neceiTary,  to 


1  SO  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XV. 

rally  them  to  the  conteft,  oyer  bridges  of  their  ilaugli- 
tsred  comrades,  but  who-at  length  was  obliged  to  re- 
tire from  the  field  of  battle,  and  to  leave  to  the  hero- 
ic Sir  Sidney,  the  exclufive  exultation  of  announcing 
to  his  grateful  and  elated  country,  that  he  had  fought, 
and  vanquifhed  the  laurelled  conqueror  of  Italy,  and 
the  bold  invader  of  Egypt. 

Sir  Sidney  has  no  vices  to  tonceal  behind  his  fpread- 
ing  and  imperiftiable  laurels.  His  public  character  is 
before  the  approving  world.  That  peace  which  his 
fword  has  accelerated,  has  afforded  us  an  undiflurbed 
opportunity  of  admiring  his  achievements  in  the  field, 
and  of  contemplating  his  condu&in  the  retired  aven- 
ues of  private  life,  in  which  his  deportment  is  with- 
out a  ftain.  In  him  there  is  every  thing  to  applaud, 
and  nothing  to  forgive. 

Yet  thus  glorious  in  public,  and  thus  unfull'ed  in 
private,  the  conqueror  of  Bonaparte,  and  the  faviour 
6f  the  eaft,  owes  the  honors,  which  he  adorns ,  to  foreign 
and  diftant  powers. 

To  the  grateful  government  of  his  own  country* 
he  Is  indebted  for  an  ungracious  paltry  annuity,  inad* 
equate  to  the  difplay  of  ordinary  confequence,  and 
wholly  unequal  to  the  fuitable  fupport  of  that  digni^ 
ty,  which  ought  for  ever  to  diftinguifh  fuch  a  being 
from  the  mafs  of  mankind. 

The  enemies  of  Sir  Sidney,  for  envy  fcjrnifhes  every 
great  man  with  his  quota  of  fuch  indirect  eulogifts,  if 
they  fhould  honor  thefe  pages  with  aperufal,  mar, 
perchance,  endeavor  to  trace  the  approving  warmth 


CHAP.  XVI.]  IN    FRANCE.  181 

with  which  I  have  fpoken  of  him,  to  the  enthuirafm  of 
a  friendfhip  dazzled,  and  undifcriminating  ;  but  I  beg 
to  allure  them,  that  the  fame  of  Sir  Sidney  is  better 
known  to  me  than  his  perfon,  and  that  his  noble  quali- 
ties have  alone  excited  the  humble  tribute  which  is 
fere  offered  to  one,  for  whom  delighted  Nature,  in 
the  language  of  our  immortal  bard, 


■might  Hand  up, 


w  And  fay  to  all  the  world,  this  if  a  man—." 

CHAP.  XVI. 

A fajh'ionable  Poem, — Frere Richart. — Religion. — Ho- 
tel des  Invalides. — Hall  ef  Viclory. — Enemies'  Col- 
ors.— Sulky  Appearance  of  an  Englijh  jfack  and  En- 
Jign. — Indecorum. — The    aged    Captain. — Military 
School. — Camp  de  Mars. — The  Garden  of ' Moujfeaux. 

THE  converfation  whilft  I  was  at  Paris,  was  much 
engaged  by  a  poem,  defer  ibing  the  genius  and  progrefs 
of  Chriftianity  written  in  imitation  of  the  ftyle  of  Of- 
fian,  which  excited  very  conilderable  curiofity.  Prom 
the  remarks  offome  fhrewd  acquaintances  of  mine, 
who  had  perufed  the  work,  I  learnt  that  the  princi- 
ples of  the  poem  feemed  ftrongly  tinctured  with  the 
bewildered  fancies  of  a  difordered  mind,  conveyed  in 
very  heavy profaic  blank  verfe.  « It  was  the  madnefs 
«  of  poetry,  without  the  infpiration." 

Q 


182  THE   'STRANGER  [CHA?.   XVL 

This  compofition  may  be  confidered  as  a  curiofity, 
from  other  reafons  than  thofe  which  mere  criticifm 
affords.  The  poem  was  bad,  the  readers  were  many. 
The  fubjecl  was  facred,  the  author  a  reputed  atheift, 
and  the  profits  which  it  produced  exceeded  two  thouf- 
and  pounds  fterling.  The  fortunate  writer  relieved 
hknfelf  from  the  jaws  of  famine  by  this  ftrange  incom- 
prehenfible  eulogy  on  the  charms  and  advancement 
of  Chriftianity,  which  has  been  received  in  Paris,  with 
a  fort  of  fafhionable  frenzy.  Another  pfeudo-bard 
has  announced  his  intention  very  fhortly  of  ifluing 
from  the  prefs,  a  work  which  he  conceives  will  be 
more  faleable  and  a  greater  favorite  with  the  public, 
in  which  he  intends  ironically  to  combat  the  doctrine 
of  the  Trinity,  by  gravely  refembling  it  to  the  Deity 
taking  fnuff  between  twa  looking  glafTes,  fo  that 
when  he  fneezes,  two  refemblances  of  him  are  feen 
to  fneeze  alfo,  and  yet  that  there  are  not  three  fneez- 
ers,  but  one  fneezer. 

Some  other  outlines  of  this  work  were  imparted  to 
rne  at  Paris,  but  the  pen  turns  with  difguft  and  detef- 
tation,from  fuch  low  and  naufeous  profanation.  I  have 
only  condefcendedto  mention  the  competition,  and  the 
laft  anecdote,  to  fhow  how  much  the  world  is  deluded, 
by  the  received  opinion  that  the  French  are  become  a 
new  race  of  exemplary  devotees.  Therecoil  from  athe- 
ifm  to  enthufiafm,  is  not  unufual  \  but  the  French  in 
general  have  not,  as  yet,  experienced  this  change. 
That  they  are  fufceptible  of  extraordinary  tranfitions, 


CHAP.  XVI.  j  IN    FRANCE.  183 

their  hi  (lory  and  revolution  have   fufficiently   mam~ 
fefted.  In  the  Journal  de  Paris,  written  in  the  reigns 
of  Charles  VL  and  VII.  is  preferved  rather  a  curious 
account  of  the  velocity  with  which  religious  zeal  has,, 
in  former  periods,  been  excited.     "  On  the  4th  day 
of  April,  1429,"  fays  the  Journal,  «  the  duke  of  Bur- 
"  gundy  came  to  Paris,  with  a  very   fine  body  of 
"  knights  and  efquires  ;  and  eight   days    afterwards 
"  there  came  to  Paris,  a  cordelier,  by  name  Frere 
"  Richart,  a  man  of  great  prudence,  very  knowing  in. 
"  prayer,  a  giver  of  good  doctrine  to  edify  his  neigh- 
"  bor,  and  was  fo  fuccefsful,  that,  he  who   had  not. 
"  feen  him,  was  burfting  with  envy  againft  thofe  who 
«  had.  He  was  but  one  day  in  Paris,  without  preach— 
«f  ing.     He  began  his  fermon  about  five  o'clock  in 
"the  morning,  and  continued  preaching  till   ten  or 
«*  eleven  o'clock,  and  there  v;era  always  between  Jlv~ 
"  and  fix  thoufand  perfons  to  hear  him  preach.  This 
«  cordelier  preached  on  St.  Mark's  day,  attended  by 
« the  like  number  of  perfons,  and   on  their  return 
"  from  his  fer  r  on,  the  people  of  Paris  were   fo  turn- 
"  ed,  and  moved  to  devotion,   that  in  three  or  four 
H  hours  time,  there  were  more  than  one  hundred 
"  fires  lighted,  in  which  they  burnt  their  chefs  boards, 
"  their  back  gammon  tables, ,  and   their  packs  of 
«  cards." 

To  this  fort  of  fanaticifm,  .  the  Parifians  are  un- 
<|ueflionably  not  arrived.  A  more  eloquent  man  than 
the  Frere  Richart,  muft  appear  amongft  them,  be- 
fore.fuch  meliorations  as  are  recorded  in  the  Paris 


284?  THE  STRANGER  [CHAF.  XVI. 

journal,  can  be  effected  in  the  dhTolute  and  uncon- 
trolled habits  of  that  gay  and  voluptuous  city.  I  do 
not  mean,  from  any  previous  remark  which  I  have 
made,  to  infer  that  there  are  net  many  good  and  very 
pio'.s  people  in  France,  and  it  has  been  a  favorable 
circumftance  to  the  ancient  religion  of  the  country, 
that  the  revolution  never  attempted  any  reform  in  it, 
or  to  fubftitute  another  mode  of  worfhip.  That 
great  political  change  in  the  ebullition  of  its  fury, 
proftrated  the  altars  of  the  old  church,  without  raifing 
others  of  a  new,  or  improved  conftruction.  It  pre- 
fented  a  hideous  rebellion  againft  the  glorious  author 
©fall  good,  and  declared  an  indifcriminate  war  of  ex- 
termination againft  his  minifters  and  followers,  and 
every  principle  of  the  Gofpel  and  morality.  Every 
form  of  faith,  every  mode  of  adoration,  fell  indifcrim- 
anately  under  the  profcriptions  of  its  unfparing  wrath. 
The  towering  abbey  and  humble  oratory,  were  alike 
fwept  away  in  the  general  tornado,  and  mingled  their 
ruins  together.  But  the  race  of  the  good  were  not 
all  expelled  from  this  fcene  of  havoc  and  outrage. 
The  voice  of  piety  dill  found  a  paffage  to  her  God. 
The  filent  prayer  pierced  through  the  compact  cover- 
ing of  the  dungeon,  and  afcended  to  Heaven.  With- 
in the  embowering  unfearchable  receiTes  of  the  foul, 
far  beyond  the  reach  of  revolutionary  perfecution, 
the  pure  unappalled  fpirit  of  devotion  erected  her 
vlewlefs  temple,  in  fecret  magnificence,  fublime,  and 
unavailable  ! 

The  child  who  had  never  heard  the  bell  of  the  Sab- 


CHAP.  XVI.]  IN  FRANCE.  185 

bath  found,  who  had  never  beheld  the  fokmn  cere- 
monies of  authorifed  adoration,  was  told  that  thofe 
awful  and  fplendid  piles,  which  filled  his  eyes  with 
wonder,  and  his  mind  with  inftinctive  reverence,  were 
raifed  for  other  purpofes  than  thofe  of  becoming  aux- 
iliary to  the  ferocity  of  war.  .  That  genius  and  tafte, 
and  toil  and  coft,  had  not  thus  expended  their  unri- 
valled powers,  and  lavifhed  their  munificent  refourte*, 
in  erecting  gothic  magazines  of  gunpowder,  and  /axon 
fheds'for  the  accommodation  of  atheiftic  fabricators  of. 
revolutionary  cannon  balls. 

The  young  obferver  in  private,  and  by  ftealth  im- 
bibed from  parental  precept  or  example,  the  fentiment 
of  actional  religion,  fupprefled,  not  extinguished,  or . 
in  the  gloomy  ahfence  of  all  indications  of  it,  remain-  - 
ed  uufoiicited  by  any  rival  mode  of  worihip  to  bellow' 
his  apoftacy  upon  an  alien  creed.. .  Thus  the  minds  of . 
the  rifing  generation,  who  were  engaged  in  favor  of . 
the  catholic  perfuafion,  during  the  frightful  period  of 
its  long  denunciation,  by  Stolen,  fecluded  and  unfin- 
ished difplaysof  its  Spirit  and  form,  contemplated  its 
return  with  animated. elation,  or  beheld  its  approach, 
unimprefled  with  thofe   doubts  or  prejudices  which  . 
religious,   as  well  as  fecular  competitions,  very  fre- 
quently excite  •,  in  that  auSplcious  hour,  w  hen  the  pol- 
icy,  if  not  the  piety  of  a  powerful  government,  ref- 
tored  it  to  the  French  people.     The  Subject  is  highly 
"  iriterefting ;  but  I  mull  refign  it  to  abler  peas  for.  m  s 
ample  difcuffion. 

Q-2 


186  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XVI. 

I  was  much  gratified  by  being  prefented  to  the  cel- 
ebrated philofopher  Mons.  Charles,  by  Madame  S . 

He  has  a  fuite  of  noble  apartments  in  the  Louvre, 
which  have  been  beftowed  upon  him  by  the  govern- 
ment, as  a  grateful  reward  for  his  having  prefented 
to  the  nation  his  magnificent  collection  of  philofoph- 
kal  apparatus.  He  has  alfo,  in  confederation  of  his 
ability  and  experience,  been  conftituted  the  principal 
lecturer  on  philofophy..  In  thefe  rooms  his  valuable 
and  coftly  donation  is  arranged.  In  the  centre  of  the 
dome  of  the  firft  apartment,  called  the  Hall  of  Elec- 
tricity, is  fufpended  the  car  of  the  firft  balloon  which 
was  inflated  with  inflammable  air,  in  which  he  and 
his  brother  afc ended  in  the  afternoon  of  the  1ft  of 
December,  1783,  in  which  they  continued  in  the  air- 
for  an  hour  and  three  quarters  5  and  after  they  had 

defcended,  Mons.  C- rofe  alone  to  the  aftonifhing 

height  of  1 0,500  feet.  In  the  fame  room  are  immenfe 
electrical  machines  and  batteries,  fome  of  which  had 
i>e en  prefented  to  him  by  Madame  S- — — ... 

In  this  room,  amongft  many  other  fanciful  figures 
which  are  ufed  for  the  purpofe  of  enlivening  the  fol- 
*mnity  of  a  philofophical  lecture  by  exciting  fenti-. 
ments  of  innocent  gaiety,  was  a  little  Cupid.  The  tiny 
god,  with  his  ariow  W  his  hand,  was  infulated  upon  a 
throne  of  glafs,  and  was  charged  with  that  electric 
fluid  which  not  a  little  refembles  the  fubtle  fpirit  of 
his  nature.  The  youngeft  daughter  of  Madame, 
S— ,  who  accompanied  us,  was  requefted  to  toucfc 
k.      In  a  moment  it  difcharged  its  penetrating  fpark-^ 


CHAP.  XVI.]  IN   FRANCE*  18T 

"  Oh  !  how  that  little  god  has  alarmed  me  f"  faid  the 
recoiling  fair  one,  whofe  youthful  countenance  mr- 
prife  had  imbued  with  new  beauties  ;  "  but  yet,"  faid 
fhe,  recovering  herfelf,  "  he  does  not  hurt.11  This  lit- 
tle fally  may  be  considered  as  a  fpecimen  of  that  play- 
ful fprightlinefs  which  is  fo  much  the  characteristic  of 
the  French  female. 

In  the  centre  of  another  room,  dedicated  to  optics, 
as  we  entered,  we  faw  a  beautiful  nofegay  in  a  vafe, 
which  appeared  to  be  compofed  of  the  rareft  flowers* 
I  approached  it  with  an  intention  of  inhaling  its  frag- 
rance, when,  lo  !  my  hand  paffed  through  it.  It  was 
an  exquifite  optical  illufion.     «  Ah  !"  faid  my  elegant 

and  moralifing  companion,  Madame  S ,  milling, 

"  of  fuch  flowers  has  Happinefs  compofed  her  wreath :. 
"  it  is  thus  fhe  gladdens  with  it  the  eye  of  Hope  y 
u  but  the  hand  of  Expectation  can  never  grafp  it." 

The  graceful  moral  deferves  a  more  lafting  record 
than  it  will  find  in  thefe  few  and  perifhable  pages. 

In  the  other  rooms  are  all  forts  of  apparatus  for 
trying  experiments  in  the  various  branches  of  that  de«v 
partment.  of  fcience,  over  which  Mons.C- — >fo  abry  - 
pr  elides.; 

The  merit  cf  Mons.  C— ^  has  no  rival  but  in  his 
modeily .  Conf  idering  the  rank  and  eftimation  which 
he  bears  in  the  republic,  his  external  appearance  is 
Angularly  &nafluming„_  I  have  been  with  him  in  the 
gardens  of  the  Thuijjeries,  when  they  were  thronged 
with  the  faihion.  and  gaiety  of  Paris^  wiiere  he  l:a& 


1£8  THE  STRANGE*  [CHAP.   XVI. 

appeared  in  a  fuit  of  plain  brown  cloth,  an  old  round 
hat  with  a  little  national  cockade  in  it,  under  which  he 
prefented  a  countenance  full  of  character,  talent  and 
animation.  In  this  homely  puritan  garb,  he  excited 
more  refpeclful  curiofity,  .wherever  he  moved,  than 
fome  generals  who  paraded  before  us  in  drefTes  upon 
which  the  tailor  and  embroiderer  had  long  labored, 
and  who  added  to  their  (lature  by  laced  hats  entirely 
filled  with  gaudy  buoyant  plumes. 

From  Mons.  Charles  we  went  to  the  church  of  St. 
Rocque,  in  the  Rue  St.  Honore.  As  we  entered, 
the  effect  of  a  fine  painting  of  our  Saviour  crucified, 
upon  which  the  fun  was  fhining  with  great  glory, 
placed  at  the  extremity  of  the  church,  and  feen 
through  feveral  leffening  arches  of  faint,  increafing 
ihade,  was  very  grand.  This  church  has  been, 
more  than  once  the  fcene*  of  revolutionary-  carnage. 
Its  elegant  front  is  much  disfigured,  and  the  doors 
are  perforated,  in  a  great  number  of  places,  by  the 
hall  of  cannon  and  the  fhot  of  mufketry.  Mass  was 
performing  in  the  church  ;  but  we  faw  only  few  wor- 
lhippers,  and  thofe  were  chiefly  -old  women  and.  lit*.- 
tie  girls. 

From  St.  Rocqu&*re  proceeded  to  the  Hctel  des 
Invalides,  t]>e  chapel  and  dome  of  which  are  so  juft- 
ly  celebrated.  The  front  is  inferior  to  the  military 
hofpital  at  Ghetfea,  to  which  it  bears  fome  refem- 
blanc^  The  chapel  is  converted  into  the  Hall  of 
Yittory,  in  w£jch|  with  great  tafte  are  fufpended, 


CHAP.  XVI.]  IN  FRANCE.  1&9 

under  defcriptive  medallions,  the  banners  of  the  ene- 
mies of  the  republic,  which  have  been  taken  during 
war,  the  numbers  of  which  are  immenfe.  The 
fame  decoration  adorns  the  pilafters  and  gallery 
of  the  vaft,  magnificent  dome  at  the  end  of  the  hall. 

My  eye  was  naturally  occupied,  immediately  after 
we  had  entered,  in  fearcHing  amongft  the  mod  bat" 
tered  of  the  banners,  for  the  Britifh  colors  :  at  laft  I 
difcovered  the  jack  and  enfign  of  an  Englifh  man  of 
war,  pierced  with  fhot-holes,  and  blackened  with 
fmoke,  looking  very  fulky,  and  indignantly,  amongft 
the  finery,  and  tawdry  tatters  of  Italian  and  Turkiih 
ftandards. 

In  the  courfe  of  this  purfuit,  I  caught  the  intelli- 
gent eye  of  Madame  S .      She  immediately  af- 

figned  to  my  fearch  the   proper  motive.      <f  Ah  I" 
*iaid  fhe,  laughingly,  and  patting  me  on  the  arm  with 
her  fan,  «  we  are,  as  you  fee,  my  dear  Engltthman* 
"  very  vain  ;  and  you  are  very  proud." 

A  ftranger  to  the  late  calamitous  war,  unable  to 
marmal  in  his  mind  the  enemies  of  the  republic* 
might  here,  with  a  glance  of  his  eye,  whilft  contem- 
plating this  poor  refult  of  devaluation,  enumerate  the 
foes  of  France,  and  appreciate  the  facilities  or  diffi- 
culties of  the  victory. 

In  obferving,  amidft  this  gaudy  fhow  of  captive 
colors,  only  two  hard- won  banners  of  their  rival  ene- 
my, he  would  draw  a  conclufion  too  flattering  and 
familiar  to  an  Englifh  ear,  to  render  i|  neceilary  t* 
be  recorded  here.  life. 


**0  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XVL 

Upon  the  fhattered  ftandards  of  Auftria  he  would 
confer  the  meed  of  merited  applaufe  for  heroic,  al- 
though unprevailing  bravery. 

To  the  banners  of  Pruffia  he  would  fay,  "  I  know 
«  not  whether  principle,  or  policy,  or  treachery,  or- 
"  corruption,  deterred  you  from  the  field — Your 
"looks  exhibit  no  proofs  of  lincere  refiftance — 
¥  However,  you  never  belonged  to  cowards." 

The  Neapolitan  enfign  might  excite  fuch  fenti- 
mejits  as  thefe  :  «  You  appear  for  a  fhort  time  to 
«  have  faced  the  battle— You  were  unfortunate,  and 
«  foon  retired." 

To  the  gaudy  drapeatfs  of  the  Italian  an,d  Turkifh 
legions,  which  every  where  prefent  the-  appearance  of 
belonging  to  the  wardrobe  of  a  pantomimic  hero,  he 
vould  obferve*  "  The  fcent  of  the  battle  has  not  per- 
*<  fumed  you  ;  its  fmoke  has  not  fullied  your  fhininj 
"  filky  fides.  Ye  appear  in  numbers,  but  difplay  n? 
tf  marks  of  having  waved  before  a  brave,  united  and 
"  energetic  band." 

In  this  manner  might  he  trace  the  various  fate  of 
the  war.  Upon  ieveral  of  the  ftaSs  only  two  of  three 
flireds  of  colors  are  to  be  feen  adhering.  Thefe  are 
chiefly  Auftrian.  On  each  fide  of  the  chapel  are 
large,  and  fome  of  them  valuable  paintings,  by  the 
French  mafters,  reprefenting  the  conquefts  of  the 
French  armies  at  different  eras. 

It  is  a  matter  not  unworthy  of  obfervation,  that  al- 
though the  revolution  with  a  keen,,  and   favage  eye* 


CHAP.  XVI  ]  IN  FRANCE.  191 

/explored  too  fuccefsfully,  almoft  every  veftige  oFa 
royal  tendency,  the  beautiful  pavement  under  the 
dome  of  the  invalides  has  efcaped  definition.     The 
fleur  de  lis,  furmounted  by  the  crown  of  France,  ftill 
retains  its  original  place,  in  this  elegant  and  coftly 
marble  flooring.     The  ftatutes  of  the  faints  have  been 
removed  *,  and  their   places  are  fupplied  by  tiie  new 
order  of  revolutionary  deities  ;  but  the  names  of  the 
ancient  figures  have  not  been  erafed  from  the  pedeftals 
of  the  new  ones ;  to  which  omirlion  the  fpeclator  is 
indebted  for  a  fmile  when  contemplating  the  ftatute 
of  Equality,  he  reads,  immediately  below  his  feetj 
«  5/.  Louis^ 

There  is  here  a  coftly  monument  erected  to  the 
memory  of  the  brave  marfhal  Turenne,  who  was  kil- 
led by  a  cannon  ball  in  1675.  In  my  humble  opin- 
on,  it  is  too  much  in  the  falfe  tafte  of  French  ftatu- 
*y.  A  group  of  weeping  angels  furround  the  re- 
imbent  hero,  in  the  attitudes  of  operatic  figurantes, 
in  whofe  faces,  and  forms,  the  artift  has  attempted, 
too  laborioufly  and  artificially,  to  delineate  the  ex- 
preffions  of  graceful  grief.  On  each  fide  of  the  vaft 
arch  which  divides  the  dome  from  the  chapel,  are 
raifed  the  tablets  of  military  honor,  on  which,  in 
characters  of  gold,  the  names  of  thofe  foldiers  are  re- 
corded who  have  diftingufhed  themfelvs  for  their  a- 
enlevements  in  the  late  war.  As  we  were  contempla- 
ting a  painting  upon  a  very  large  fcale,  in  which  a- 
tnongfl  other  figures,  is  an  uncovered  whole  length  of 
a  warrior, a  prudifh-looking  lady,  who  feemed  tohave 


192  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.  XVI. 

touched  the  age  of  defperation,  after  having  very  at- 
tentively beheld  it  with  her  glafs  for  fome  time,  ob- 
ferved  to  her  party,  that  there  was  a  great  deal  of  in- 
decorum in  the  picture.     Madam  S very  fhrewdly 

whifpered  in  my  ear,  that  the  indecorum  was  in  the 
remark. 

When  we  were  juft  leaving  the  chapel,  we  over- 
heard a  funbrowned  foldier,  who  had  loft  both  his 
legs,  obferve  to  his  companion,  to  whom  he  was  ex- 
plaining the  colors,  pointing  to  the  banners  of  the 
Turkifh  cavalry,  the  tops  of  whofe  ftaffs  were  fur- 
mounted  with  horfes'  tails,  "  Look  at  thofe  ribbands  ; 
rt  they  are  not  worthy  of  being  worn  when  won." 
This  military  hofpital  is  capable  of  accommodating 
3,000  foldiers.  The  bedrooms,  kitchens,  refectory 
and  out-offices,  are  very  capacious,  and,  what  is  rather 
unufual  in  France,  clean  and  comfortable.  The  da] 
before  we  were  there,  the  Firft  Conful  paicl  a  vifit  to 
its  veteran  inhabitants.  Amongft  them,  he  recogni- 
fed  an  old,  and  very  brave  foldier,  whofe  exploits 
were  the  frequent  theme  of  his  aged  comrades.  The 
young  general  told  him  that  he  fhould  die  a  Cap- 
tain, took  him  in  his  carriage  to  dine  with  him 
him  at  Mai  Maifon,  prefented  him  with  a  medallion 
of  honour,  and  conferred  upon  him  the  rank  of  a  cap- 
tain, in  one  of  the  mod  diftinguifhed  regiments. 

From  this  place  we  went  to  the  military  fchool  ad- 
joining, in  which  Bonaparte  received  the  rudiments  of 
that  education  which  was  cleftined  to  form  the  foun- 


CHAP.   XVI.]  IN    FRANCS*  193 

dation  of  his  future  glory.  The  building  is  large  and 
handfome,  and  is,  from  a  very  natural  fentiment,  in 
high  favour  with  theFirft  ConfuL  There  is  nothing 
in  it  particular  to  defcribe.  The  grounds  and  gar- 
dens are  very  fpacious  and  fine.  In  the  front  of  the 
military  fchool  is  the  celebrated  Champ  de  Mars, 
which  is  an  immenfe  flat  fpace  of  ground.  On  each 
fide  are  rifing  terraces  of  earth,  and  double  rows  of 
trees,  and  at  the  further  end,  the  river  Seine  flows. 
On  days  of  great  national  celebrations,  this  vaft  plain 
is  furrounded  with  Gobelins'  tapeftry,  ftatues,  and  tri- 
umphal arches.  After  contemplating  thefe  objects  of 
public  curiofity,  we  returned  to  Mons.  S to  din- 
ner, where  we  met  a  large  party  of  very  pleafant  peo- 
ple. Amongft  them  I  was  pleafed  with  meeting  a  near 
relative  of  an  able  and  upright  mini  fter  of  the  republic, 
to  whofe  unwearied  labors  the  world  is  not  a  little  in- 
indebted  for  the  enjoyments  of  its  prefent  repofe. 

After  dinner  we  drove  to  the  beautiful  garden  of 
MouiTeaux,  formerly  the  property  of  the  due  d'Or- 
leans.  It  is  laid  out  with  great  tafte,  and  delights  the 
eye  with  the  moft  romantic  fpecimens  of  improved 
rural  beauty.  It  was  originally  defigned  by  its  de- 
teftible  owner  for  other  purpofes  than  thofe  of  afford- 
ing to  a  vaft  and  crowded  city  the  innocent  delights 
and  recreations  of  retired  and  tafteful  fcenery.  In 
the  gloom  of  its  groves,  all  forts  Of  horrible  profana- 
tions Were  praclifed  by  this  monfter  and  his  midnight 
ts-ew,  at  the  head  of  whom  vras  Lsaendre  the  Butch- 
P, 


194k  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.    XVI. 

er.  Every  rank  recefs  of  proftitute  pollution  in  Paris 
was  ranfacked  to  furnilh  materials  for  the  celebration 
of  their  impure  and  impious  orgies  -  The  ode  to  Athe- 
ifm,  and  the  fong  of  Blafphemy,  were  fucceeded  by 
the  applauding  yells  of  Drunkennefs  and  Obfcenity. 

At  the  time  we  vifited  this  garden  it  belonged  to 
the  nation,  and  was  open,  on  certain  days,  to  well- 
drefled  people.  A  few  days  afterwards,  it  was  pre- 
fented,  as  a  mark  of  national  efteem,  to  Cambaceres, 
the  fecond  confuU 

Here  we  rambled  till  the  evening.  The  fun  was 
fetting.  The  nightingales  were  finging  in  great  num- 
bers. Not  a  cloud  was  to  be  Ceen.  A  breeze,  blow- 
ing through  a  plantation  of  rofes,  refrefhed  us  with  its 
coolnefs  and  fragrance.  I^a  fequeftered  part  of  this 
beautiful  ground  under  the  embowering  fhades  of 
Acacia  trees,  upon  the  ruins  of  a  little  temple,  we 
feated  ourfelves,  and  were  regakd  by  fome  charming 

Italian  duets,  which  were  fung  by  Madame  S 

and  her  lovely  daughter,  with  the  moft  enchanting 
pathos.  I  hope  I  fhall  be  pardoned  for  introducing 
fome  lines  which  were  written  upon  our  return,  by  aa 
$nt&uiiaflic  admirer  of  merit  andmufic. 

TO.  WA.DEH.0ISEl.LE  D,  S— a  - 

3(a  Mouflkaux's  fweet  arcadian  dale, 

I'aii  IXelphine  pour*  the  plantive  frraia  t 

$he  charms  the  lift'ning  nightingale, 
&^d  Teems  ^L'enchantrefs  of  the  plain* 


c**ap.  xvn.j        is  trance.  isi 

Rlefi.  be  thofe  lips  to  mufic  dear  ! 

Sweet  fongftrefs  !  never  may  they   move 
But  with  fuch  iounds  to  foothe  the  ear, 

And  melt  the  yie'ding  heart  to  love  ! 

May  forrow  never  bid  them  pour 

From  the  torn  heart  one  fuffering  figh 

But  be  thy  life  a  fragrant  flow'r, 
Blooming  beneath  a  cloudlefs  (ky» 


CHAP.  XVII. 

Curious  Method  of  raifing  Hay. — Lucien  Bonaparte's 
Hotel — Opera. — Confular  Box. — Madame  Bona- 
parte's Box. — Feydeau  Theatre. — Belle  Vue. — Ver* 
failles. — The  Palace  of  the  Petit  Triannon. — The 
Grounds. 

THE  people  of  Paris,  who  kept  horfes  in  (tables  afe 
the  back  of  their  houfes,  have  a  lingular  mode  of 
keeping  their  hay  in  lofts  of  their  dwelling  houfes* 
At  the  top  of  a  fpacious  and  elegant  hotel,  is  to  be  {een 
a  projecting  crane  in  the  act  of  raifing  loads  of  winter 
provifion  for  the  ft  able.  When  I  firft  faw  this  flrange 
procefs,  my  furprife  would  fcarcely  have  been  increas- 
ed., had  I  beheld  the  horfe  afcending  after  the  hay. 

I  muft  not  forget  to  offer  fome  little  defcription  oi 
the  opera,  where,  during  my  fray,  through  the  polite- 
nefs  of  Madame  H — ,1  had  free  access  to  aprivatebox. 


198  THE  STRANGER  £CHAP.  XVII. 

This  fpacious  and  fplendid  theatre  is  lighted  from 
above  by  an  immenfe  circular  luftre  of  patent  lamps. 
The  form  of  this  brilliant  light  is  in  the  antique  tafte, 
and  it  is  faid  to  have  coft  two  thoufand  pounds  fter- 
ling.     The  effect  which  it  produces  in  the  body  of 
the   theatre,  and  upon  the  fcenery,  is  admirable.     It 
prevents  the  fight  from  being  divided,  and  diftrafted 
by  girandoles.     This  eftablifhment  is  upon  fo  v aft  a 
fcale,  that  government,  which  is  the  proprietor,  is  al- 
ways a  lofer  upon  balancing  the  receipt  s  and  difburfe- 
ments  of  each  night.     The  ft  age  and  its  machinery 
have  for  many  years  occupied  a  great  number  of  the 
fubordinate  claflbs  of  people,  who  if  not  employed  ra 
this  manner,  would  in  all  probability  become  burden- 
fome,  and  unpleafant  to  the  government.     To  this 
circumfbmce  is  attributable  the  i'bperiority  of  the  ma- 
chinery, and  over  every  other  theatre  which  I  ever 
faw.     tn  the  Englifh  theatre,  my  eye  has  often  been 
offended  at  the  representations  of  the  internal  parts  of 
houfes,  in  which  not  a  chair,  or  table  is  introduced,  for 
the  purpofe  of  carrying  on  the  ingenious  deception. 
Upon  the  flage  of  the  French  opera,  every  fcer.e  has 
its  appropriate  furniture,  and  diftmclive  appendages, 
which  are  always  produced  as  foon  as  the  fcene  drops, 
by  numerous  attendants.     From  this  attention  to  the 
minute  circumftances  of  the  drama,  the  iilufion  be- 
comes enchanting.     The  orcheftra  is  very  fine,  and 
is  compofed  of  ninety  eminent  inuficians.     The  corps 
de  ballet  conftfb  of  between  eighty  and  ninety  fine 


CHAP.  XVII.]  IN    FRANCS.  197 

dancers,  of  whom  Monfieur  Defhayes  is  the  princi- 
pal. His  movements  are  more  graceful,  his  agility 
more  furprifing,  and  his  ftep  more  light,  firm,  and  e- 
laftic,  than  thofe  of  any  dancer  whom  I  have  ever 
feen.  He  is  very  juftly  confidered  to  be  the  firft  m 
Europe.  The  fir  ft  confulhas  a  private  box  here,  on 
one  fide  of  which,  a  lofty,  hollow,  decorative  column 
rifes,  the  flutes  of  which  are  open,  and  through  which 
he  views,  unfeen,  the  audience  and  performers.  The 
beholder  might  be  almoft  inclined  to  think  that  this 
furprifing  man  had  borrowed  from  our  immortal  bard 
his  notions  of  exciting  the  imprefiion  of  dignity,  by  a- 
rare,  and  well-timed  difplay  of  his  perfon. 

**Thus  did  I  keep  aw  per  Ion  fidh,  and  nev 
M  My  prefence  ike  a  robe  pontifical, 

s;  Ne'er  feeu  but  wondered  at  :   and  To  my  il^ 
"  Seldom,  but  fumptuous  (hewed,  like  a  feait- 
{*  And  won  by  rarenefr  fu-cir  folerBnity," 

Madame  Bonaparte's  box  is  on  the  left  fide  of  th» 
jftage,  over  the  door,  in  which  the  late  iiaplefs  queea 
has  frequently  difplayed  her  beautiful  perfon  to  th-e 
enraptured  audience. 

The  Fey deau  theatre  is  very  elegant  j  and  on  ac- 
count  of  its  excellent  arrangements,  good  performers, 
and  exquifite  machinery,  is  much  reforted  to,  and  is 
in- general  preferred  to  the  fourteen  Other  dramatic 
i^eckcles  which>  in  this  diffijatejj  cjty^-ajr^oil-  $y$0 


198-  THE    STRANGER  [CHAF.  XVII. 

night  prefent  their  tribute  of  pleafure  to  the  gay,  and 
delighted  Parisians.  A  Frenchman  once  obferved  to 
me,  that  a  Sunday  in  I^ondon  was  horrible,  on  account 
of  there  being  no  playhoufes  open  at  night  !  The  de- 
corum and  good  manners  which  are  even  ftill  obferv- 
ed in  all  French  places  of  public  amufement,  are  very 
impreilive,  and  agreeable.  Korfe  and  foot  foldiers 
are  ftationed  at  the  avenues,  to  keep  them  clear,  to 
prevent  depredation,  and  quell  the  firft  indicatians  of 
popular  commotion. 

I  was  much  gratified  by  an  excuriion  to  Verfaille3, 
whieh  had  been  iome  time  planned  by  the  charming 

family  of  the  S '&.     We  let  off  early  in  the  morn-    ; 

ing,  in  one  of  the  government  carriages,  and  after  a 
delightful  ride,  through  a  very  rich,  and  luxuriant 
cowitry,  of  about  twelve  miles,  the  vaft,  and  magnifi- 
cent palace  of  Verfailles,  opened  upon  our  view,  at  the 
end  of  a  ftreet  nearly  two  miles  long,  lined  on  each 
iide  with  noble  hotels,  and  gardens.  It  was  on  a 
Sunday,  the  day  on  which  the  palace  is  opened  to  the 
jmbiie.  On  the  road,  we  paSed  feveral  hundreds  of 
perfons  in  carriages,  cabrioles,  or  walking  •,  all  with 
merrx  faces,  in  fhowy  clothes,  and  adorned  with  bou- 
quet; ,  or:  their  route  to  this  fpot  of  favorite  delight. 

About  four  miles  from  Paris  we  law  Belle  Vue, 
jennerly  the  refidence  of  Mefdames  yfoon  afterwards 
we  paiTed  the  nchle  palace,  and  park  of  St.  Cloud, 
which  Was  preparing  for  the  reception  of  the  firft 
vonduL 


CHAP.  XVII]  IN  FRANCS.  I&> 

At  the  entrance  of  the  village  of  St.  Cloud,  on  the 
left,  after  we  had  pafTed  the  bridge,  we  faw  a  very 
pretty  houfe,  and  grounds,  belonging  to  a  tanner,  who- 
had  amafTed  confiderable  wealth  by  a  difcovery  of 
tanning  leather  in  twenty-four  hours,  fo  as  to  render  it 
lit  for  the  currier.  Whether  he  poflenes  this  faculty 
or  not,  I  cannot,,  from  my  own  experience  lay,  but  I 
can  venture  to  affirm,  that  the  leather  of  France  is  very 
bad.  In  the  village  is  a  very  noble  porcelain  manu- 
factory, which  unfortunately  we  had  not  time  to  in- 

Whilft  ourhorfes  were  refrefhingthemfe Ives  with 
a  little  water,  we  were  befet  by  the  agents  of  the  dif- 
ferent hotels,  and  reflaurateurs  of  Verfailles,  who 
prefented  us  with  little  cards,  announcing  in  a  very 
pompous  manner  the  fuperiority  of  their  employers 
accommodations. 

The  ftahles  of  Verfailles,  to  the  right,  and  left,  are 
from  the  defigns  of  Manfart,  in  the  form  of  a  crefcent, 
and  have  the  appearance  of  princely  refidenc.ts.  Here 
the  late  King  kept  in  the  greater!  ftyle  fix  hundred  of 
the  fineft  horfes.  On  the  left  of  the  grand  gateway, 
is  a  military  lodge  for  the  accommodation  of  cavalry. 
It  reprefents  in  fhape,  an  immenle  Turkiih. marquee. 
After  we  had  palled  the  pallifades  of  the  firir,  courts 
we  more  diitinctly  faw  this  amazing  pile  of  irregular 
buildings,  which  confifts  of  the  eld  caftle,  the  ntw 
palaces,  the  houfes  of  the  miniftersof  flate,  and  fer- 
v,ants>  two  opera  Jioufes>the  chape),  military  fchoolsj 


209  THE  STRANGER  CHAP.  XVII/J 

mufeums,  and  the  manufactory  of  arms,  the  whole  of 
which  are  now  confolidated,  and  form  one  palace. 

The  beautiful  pavement  of  black  and  white  marble 
in  the  court  yards,  is  much  defaced,  and  their  foun- 
tains are  totally  deftroyed. 

The  firft  place  we  vifited  was  the  manufactory  of 
fmall'arms  ;  the  refident  workmen  in  which  exceed 
two  thoufand  men.  Here  we  faw  all  the  ingenious 
procefs  of  conftruc~ting  the  mnlket,  piftoi,  and  fabre, 
of  which  there  are  an  immenfe  collection  ;  and  al 
feveral  carbines,  and  fwords  of  honor,  intended 
prefents  from  the  firft.  conful  to  officers  and  foldiersoj 
diftinguiffced  merit. 

From  the  manufactory  of  fmall  arms,  we  returnee 
to  the  grand  court,  and  entered  a  fuite  of  rooms,  whic?i 
contain  the  relics  of  the  former  valuable  cabinet  of 
curiofities*  Several  of  thofe  which  we  faw,  were 
worthy  of  attention.  From  thefe  rooms,  we  palled 
to  the  late  king's  private  opera  houfe,  which  furpalTcs 
in  magnificence,  and  coftly  decoration,  every  thing  of 
the  kind  I  ever  beheld.  The  facing  of  the  whole  of 
the  inflde  is  of  carved  wood,  richly  gilt.  The  dome 
is  beautifully  painted.  Upon  the  fcenery  of  the  ftage 
being  removed,  and  temporary  columns,  and  galleries 
raifed  ;  all  of  which  can  be  effected  in  twenty- four 
hours,  that  part  of  the  theatre  prefents  a  counterpart 
of  the  other,  and  the  whole  forms  a  moft  fplendid  ob- 
long ball  room,  very  defervedly  confidered  to  be  tile 
.^oeft  in  Burope  •,  it  ufed  to  be  illuminated  by  tenth  -  &• 


CHAP.  XVIL]  IN    FRANCE.  201 

fand  wax  lights.  The  concert  rooms,  and  retiring  a*- 
partments  are  alfo  very  beautiful.  From  the  opera, 
we  viiited  the  chapel,  which  is  very  fine,  and  coftly, 
inwhich  there,  are  many  large,  and  \aluable  pam> 
tings.  After  leaving  this  deferted  place  of  royal  wor- 
ship, we  pafted  through  the  Halls  of  Plenty,  Venus, 
Mars,  Mercury,  Apollo,  and  the  Hal]  of  the  Billiard 
Table,  finely  painted  by  Hotiafle,  le  Brun,  ChanV 
pagne,  and  other  eminent  artifb,  to  the  grand  gallery, 
rhich  is  feventy-two  yards  long,  and  fourteen,  broad, 
id  has  feventeen  lofty  windows  on  one  fide,  which 
look  into  the  gardens,  and  feventeen  immenfe  pier 
glaiTes  on  the  oppoiite  fide  to  correfpond.  In  this 
gallery,  the  kings  of  France  were  aecuftomed  to  re- 
ceive ambafFadors,  and  minifters  of  ftate. 

We  next  entered  the  bedroom  of  the  late*  queen 
and  beheld  the  door,  which,  on  the  night  of  the  6th 
October,  1789,  the  frantic,  and  fanguinary  mob, 
headed  by  the  infamous  Legendre,  burft  open,  for 
the  purpofe  of  difpatching  her  with  daggers,  in  her 
bed,  on  that  frightful  night,  which  preceded  the  re- 
turn of  the  royal  family  to  Paris,  under  the  proteclion 
of  the  marquis  de  la  Fayette,  through  an  enraged  mul- 
titude, which  extended  itfelf  from  Verfailles  to  Paris. 
The  miferable  queen  faved  herfelf  by  efcaping  into 
an  adjoining  apartment.  Her  bed  was  pierced  through 
and  through  with  pcignards.  The  door  is*  nailed  up, 
tyit  the  marks  of  that  horrible  outrage  ftill  remain, 
In  this,  and  in  the  adjoining  chambers,  are  fome  very 


202  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XVII, 

beautiful  and  valuable  paintings.  I  muft  not  omit  to 
mention,  although  the  fentiment  which  it  infpires  is 
not  very  pleafant,  the  reprefentation  of  the  capture  of 
an  Engliih  frigate,  by  la  Bayonne,  a  French  corvette, 
after  a  defperate  engagement,  in  which  victory  for 
once  decided  in  favor  of  the  enemy,  who  oppofed, 
on  this  occafion,  an  inferior  force.  This  is  a  picture 
of  infinite  merit,  and  pofiefTes  a  novelty  of  arrange- 
ment, and  flrength  of  coloring,  which  I  never  faw 
equalled  in  any  other  naval  reprefentation.  Th 
fubject  feidom  ad.nits  of  much  variety.  The  French] 
of  courfe,  are  very  much  pleafed  with  it.  There  are' 
here  alfo,  fome  curious  old  clocks. 

It  was  in  one  of  thefe  apartments,  that  Prior/ the 
celebrated-  poet,  when  fecretary  to  the  earl  of  Port- 
land, who  was  appointed  ambarTador  to  the  French 
Court,  in  the  year  1698,  made  the  following  memo- 
rable anfwer. 

One  of  the  French  king's  houfehold  was  mowing 
the  bard  the  royal  apartments  and  curiofities  of  this 
palace,  and  particularly  pointed  out  to  his  notice,  the 
paintings  of  le  Brun,  now  removed  to  the  muf- 
eum  of  the  arts,  in  which  the  victories  of  Lew- 
is the  XIV.  are  defcribed,  and  afked  him  wheth-* 
er  the  actions  of  king  William  were  to  be  feen  in  his 
palace  ?  No,  fir,  replied  the  loyal  wit,  the  monuments 
«  of  my  manner's  glory  are  to  be  feemevery  where  but 
"  in  his  own  houfe." 

Through  the  intereft  of  Monfieur  S ,  we  were 


CHAP.    XVII.3  IN    FRANCE.  203 

admitted  into  a  private  room  below  ftairs,  in  which 
feveral  portraits  of  the  late  royal  family  have  been 
preferved  from  deftruc'tion,  during  the  late  revolu- 
tion. That  which  reprefents  the  cjueen  and  her 
young  family,  is  very  fine,  and  difplays  all  the  bewitch- 
ing beauty  and  vivacity  of  that  lovely  and  unfortunate 
perfonage.  Into  this  room  no  one  was  admitted  with 
us.  Here  is  a  very  curious  piece  of  mechanifm  :  it 
is  a  painting,  containing  two  hundred  little  figures,  in 
the  act  of  enjoying  the  various  pleafures  of  rural 
fport,  which  are  feparated  from  the  back  ground  of 
JJhe  piclure,  and  are  fet  in  motion  by  fprings  j  and 
^admirably  imitate  all  the  movements  natural  to  their 
'  different  occupations.  A  fiftierman  throws  in  his  line 
pmd  draws  up  a  little  fifh,  a  regular  chafe  is  difplayed 
and  a  nuptial  proceflion  appears,  in  which  little  fig- 
ures, riding  in  tiny  carriages,  nod  to  the  Spectators. 
There  are  alfo  many  other  curious  figures.  It  is  gla- 
zed and  framexl,  and  at  a  diftance,  when  its  motion 
has  ceafed,  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  tolerably  good 
painting.  "We  next  quitted  the  palace,  and  entered 
upon  the  grand  terrace,  from  which  it  makes  the  fined 
appearance. 

This  enormous  pile  of  building  is  here  united  by  a 
centre,  and  corresponding  wings,  of  great  extent  and 
magnificence. 

From  this  elevated  fpot,  the  beholder  contemplate* 
th|  different  water  works,  walks  and  gardens,  whick 
caver  feveral  miles. 


204  THE   STRANGER  [CHAP.    XVIL 

The  orangery  is  a  beautiful  fpecimen  of  Tufcan 
architecture,  defigned  by  le  Maitre,  and  fmifhed  by 
Manfart.  It  is  filled  with  lofty  orange  trees  in  full 
bearing :  many  of  which ,  in  their  tubs,  meafure 
from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high.  Amongft  them  is  an 
orange  tree  which  is  upwards  of  four  hundred  years 
old.  The  cafcades,  fountains,  and  jets  d'eau,  are  too 
numerous  to  admit  of  minute  defcripdon.  They  are 
all  very  fine*  and  are  fupplied  by  prodigious  engines 
acrofs  the  Seine,  at  Marli,  about  three  miles  diftant. 
The  Trianon  is  a  little  marble  palace,  of  much  beauty 
and  embellifhed  with  the  richeft  decoration. 

It  ftands  at  the  end  of  the  great  lake,  in  front  of 
the  palace  ;  and  was  by  its  late  royal  owners,  confid- 
ered  as  a  fummer  houfe  to  the  gardens  of  Verfailles. 
The  whole  of  this  van:  building  and  its  grounds,  were 
improved  and  beautified  by  Lewis  XIV.  for  the  well 
known  purpofe  of  imprefling  his  fubjecls,  and  partic- 
ularly his  courtiers,  with  the  highe ft  opinion  of  his 
greatnefs,  and  the  loweft  of  their  comparative  littie- 
nefs.  Amongft  the  lords  of  his  court  he  eafily  effect- 
ed his  wiffees,  by  accommodating  them  in  a  manner 
unfuitable  to  their  dignity. 

After  being  aftonifiied  at  fiich  a  difplay  of  gorgeous 
magnificence,  I  approached,  with  increafed  delight, 
the  enchanting  little  palace  and  grounds,  of  the  late 
queen,  diftant  from  Verfailles  about  two  miles,  called 
the  Petit  Trianon,  to  which  flie  very  jwftly  gave  the 
appellation  of  her  "little  Palace  of  Taftc."  Here  fa- 


CHAP.  XVII.  j  m   FRAKCE.        *  §05 

tigued  with  the  fplendors  of  royalty,  flie  threw  afide 
all  its  appearances,  and  gave  herfelf  up  to  the  elegant 
pteafures  of  rural  life.  It  is  a  princely  eftablifhment 
in  miniature.  It  confifts  of  a  fmall  palace,  a  chapel 
an  opera  houfe,  outofHces  and  flables,  a  little  park, 
and  pleafure  grounds ;  the  latter  of  which  are  flill 
charming,  although  the  fafcinating  eye,  and  tafteful 
hand  of  their  lovely  but  too  volatile  miflrefs,  no  lon- 
ger pervade,  cherifh  and  direct  their  growth  and 
beauty.  By  that  reverfe  of  fortune,  which  the  revo- 
lution has  familiarized,  the  Petit  Trianon  is  let  out  by 
the  government  to  a  reftaurateur.  All  the  rooms  but 
one  in  this  houfe  were  preoccupied,  on  the  day  of  our 
viiit,  in  confequence  of  which  we  were  Obliged  to  dine 
iri  the  former  little  bed  room  of  the  queen,  where  like 
the  Idalian  goddefe,  fhe  ufed  to  fleep  in  a  fufpended 
bafoet  of  rofes.  The  appertures  in  the  ceiling  and 
wainfcot,  to  which  the -elegant  furniture  of  this  little 
room  of  repofe  had  once  adhered,  are  ftill  vifiole. 

After  dinner  we  haftened  through  our  coffee,  and 
proceeded  to  the  gardens.  After  winding  through 
gravelled  walks,  embowered  by  the  moft  exquifite 
and  coftly  fhrubs,  we  entered  the  elegant  temple  of 
Cupid,  from  which  the  little  favorite  of  mankind  had 
been  unwillingly,  and  rudely  expelled,  as  appeared 
by  the  fragments  of  his  pedeftal. 

Thy  wrongs  little  god  !  fhall  be  revenged  by  thy 
fair  friend  pity.  Thofe  who  treated  thee  thus,  fhall 
buffer  in  their  turn,  and  fhe  fhall  not  confole  them  ! 


206 


THE   STRANGER        \    [Cf?  A  P.  XVII. 


From  this  temple  we  pafled  through  the  moft  ro- 
mantic avenues,  to  a  range  of  rural  buildings,  called 
'  the  queen's  farm,  the  dairy,  the  mill,  and  the  wood- 
men's cottages  •,  which,  during  the  queen's  refidence 
at  the  Trianon,  were  occupied  by  the  moft  elegant 
and  accomplifhed  young  noblemen  of  the  court.  In 
front  of  them,  a  lake  terminated  on  one  fide  by  a  ruf- 
tic  tower,  fpreads  itfelf.  Thefe  buildings  are  much 
neglected,  and  are  falling  into  rapid  ruin. 

In  other  times,  when  neatnefs  and  order  reigned 
throughout  this  Elyfian  fcenery,  and  gracefully  fpread 
its  luxuriant  beauties  at  the  feet  of  its  former  captivat- 
ing owner,  upon  the  mirror  of  that;  lake,  now  filled 
with  reeds  and  fedges,  in  elegant  little  pleafure  boats, 
the  iiluftrious  party  was  accuftomed  to  enjoy  the 
freflmefs  of  the  evening,  to  fill  the  furrounding  groves 
with  the  melody  of  the  fbng,  which  was  faintly  an- 
swered by  the  tender  flute,  whofe  mufician  was  con- 
cealed in  that  ruftic  tower,  whofe  graceful  bafe  the 
lioneyfuckle  and  eglantine  no  longer  encircle,  ,  and 
whofe  winding  accefs,  once  decorated  with  flowers  of 
the  rlcheft  beauty  and  perfume,  is  now  overgrown 
with  mofs,  decayed,  and  falling  piecemeal  to  the 
ground.    • 

Near  the  farm,  in  ccrrefponding  pleafure  grounds, 
the  miller's  houfe  particularly  imprefTed  us  with  de- 
light. All  its  charac~leriitics  were  elegantly  obferved. 
A  rivulet  ftill  runs  on  one  fide  of  it,  which  formerly 
•ufed  to  turn  a  little  wheel  to  complete  the  ilhific 


CHAP.  XVII. J  IN    FRANCE.  207 

The  apartments,  which  mull  have  been  once  en- 
chanting, now  prefent  nothing  but  gaping  beams, 
broken  ceilings,  and  fhatterfd  cafements.  The  wainf- 
cots  of  its  little  cabinets,  exhibit  only  a  tablet,  upon 
which  are  rudely  pencileS,  the  motly  initials,  love 
.  verfes,  and  memorandums  of  its  various  vifitcrs. 

Thefhadeofthe  ivy,  which,  upon  all  occaflons, 
feems  defined  to  perform  the  laft  ofHces  to  the  de- 
parting monuments  of  human  ingenuity,  has.  here 
exercifed  its  gloomy  function..  Whilit  we  were  rov- 
ing about,  we  were  obliged  to  take  refuge  from  a 
thunderftorm,  in  what  appeared  to  us  a  mere  barn  *, 
upon  our  entering  it,  we  found  it  to  be  an  elegant  lit- 
tle ball  room,  much  disfigured,  and  greened  over  by 
damp  and  neglect.  In  other  parts  of  this  petit  Par- 
adis>  are  caves  of  artificial  rock,  which  have  been 
formed  at  an  immenfe  expenfe,  in  which  were  for- 
merly beds  of  mofs,  and  through  which  clew  ftr  earns 
of  water  glided,  Belvidere  temples,  and  fcattered  cot- 
tages, each  differing  from  its  neighbor  in  character, 
but  all  according  in  tafte  and  beauty.  The  opera 
houfe,  which  ftands  alone,  is  a  miniature  of  the  fplen- 
did  one  in  the  palace  of  Versailles. 

The  fylvan  ball  room,  is  an  oblong  fquare,  lined 
with  beautiful  treillages,  furmounted  with  vafes  of 
flowers.  The  top  is  open.  When  the  queen  gave 
her  balls  here,  the  ground  was  covered  by  a  tempora- 
ry flooring,  and  the  whole  was  brilliantly  lighted. 
As  we  palled  by  the  palace,  we  faw,  in  the  queen's. 
little  library,  feveral  perfons  walking. 


208  THE     STRANGER  [CH-1F.  XVII. 

Could  the  enchanting  beauty  of  Auftria,  and  the 
once  incenfed  idol  of  the  gay,  and  the  gallant,  arife 
from  her  untimely  tomb,  and  behold  her  mofl  facred 
recefTes  of  delight,  thus  rudely  expofed,  and  convert- 
ed into  fcenes  of  low,  and  holiday  feftivity,  the  tem- 
ples which  fhe  defigned,  defaced,  their  flatues,  over- 
thrown, her  walks  overgrown  and  entangled,  the  clear 
mirror  of  the  winding  lake,  upon  the  placid  furface  of 
'  vhich  once  fhown  the  reflected  form  of  theEelvidere, 
and  the  retreats  of  elegant  tafte  covered  with  the 
reedy  greennefs  of  the  ftanding  pool,  and  all  the 
fairy  fabric  of  her  graceful  fancy,  thus  difiblving  in 
decay  •,  the  devoted  haplefs  Marie  would  add  another 
ugh  to  the  many  which  her  aching  heart  has  already 
heaved  I 

It  would  be  i  very  defirable  thing  if  Bonaparte 
would  make  this  his  country  palace  inftead  of  St. 
Cloud.  Upon  our  return,  as  we  approached  Paris,. 
the  illuminated  bridges  of  the  Seine  looked  very  beau- 
tiful, and  we  were  muchpleafed  with  fome  fireworks, 
which  had  a  fingular  effect  upon  the  water. 

In  the  evening,  we  had  fome  mufic  at  Monfieur 

S 's,  where  we  were  joined  by  general  Marefcot, 

a  brave  and  diftinguiflied.  ofncer,  much  efteemed  by 
Bonaparte.  He  informed  us,  that  he  was  on  the  point 
of  fetting  out  to  view  and  report  the  condition  of  all 
the  maritime  fortifications  in  the  republic.  "  You 
«  muft  go  with  me^  as  my  aide-de-camp,"  faid  the 
general  to  Mademoifelle  D— —     "  I  am  not  fierce 


CHAP.  XVIII.]  IN  FRANCE.  209 

"  enough  for  a  foldier,"  replied  the  fair  one,  with  a 
bewitching  fmile.  "Well  then,"  obferved  the  fun- 
brown  general,  «  fhould  the  war  ever  be  renewed, 
»«  you  fhall  attend  me  to  charm  away  its  calamities." 

Madame  S ,  like  a  true  French  mother,  was 

delighted  with  the  little  compliment,  and  prefenting 
her  fnufi*  box  to  the  gallant  Marefcot^  fhe  laid, 
«  thank  you,  my  dear  general,  the  brave  always  think. 
fj  generoufly  of  the  fxir." 

CHAP;  XVIIL 

Bonaparte's  Talents  in  Finance. — Garrick  and  the  MaiU 
man.-. — Palace  of  the  Confervative  Senate.  —^Brocefs* 
of  transferring  Oil  Paintings,  from. If rood  ts  Canvas \ 
— The  Dinner  Knife. — Commodities. — Hall,  of  the 
National  Convention. — The  Minifler  Talleyrand's: 
Levee*., 

THE  firfc  conful  is  faid  to  add  to  his  other  extra- 
ordinary  powers,  an  acute  and  comprehenfive  knowl- 
edge of  finance.     Monfieur  S informed   me, 

that  whenever  he  waited  upon  him  in  his  official  ca- 
pacity, witli  the  national  accounts,  he  difplayed  an  ac- 
quaintance with  the  moil  complicated  ftatements, 
which  feemed  intuitive.- 

He  exhibits  the  fame  talents  in  ph'ilcfophyy  and'  in. 
matters  which-  are  foreign  to  thofe  va&;objec"te  of  pub- 
ik.ei3£loyy  which  have  raifed  hint:  to^his  prefent 
S  S3 


210  THE  STRANGER  [CHAF.  XVIII. 

neight  of  glory,  and  which  in  general  preclude  the 
fubordinate  enjoyment  of  elegant  fludy. 

Thofe  acquirements,  which  providence  in  its  wif- 
dom  has  thinly  fcattered  amongft  mankind,  and  which 
Jg  feldom  ripen  to  full  maturity,  although  cherifhed  by 
the  moll  propitious  advantages,  and  by  the  unrepoling 
labours  of  a  long,  and  blifsful  exigence,  fpread  their 
ricn  abundance,  in  the  May  morning  of  Hie,  before 
this  extraordinary  being,  who  in  the  commencement 
of  that  very  revolution,  upon  the  ruins  of  which  he 
has  flepped  to  furpreme  authority,  was  a  beardlefs. 
{tripling. 

From  the  great  performers  upon  the  public  ftage  of 

life,  our  converfation,  one  evening,  at  Madame  S 's 

by  a  natural  tranfition,  embraced  a  review  of  the  won- 
derful talents,  which  have  at  various  times  adorned 

the  leffer  drama  of  the  theatre.    Madame  S made 

fome  judicious  remarks  upon  the  French  players  of 
diftinction,  to  all  of  whom  me  imputed  a  manner,  and 
enunciation  which,  have  been  imbibed  in  a  fchool,  in 
which  nature  has  not  been  permitted  to  prefide* 
Their  tragedy*  £he  faid,  was  inflated  with  too  much, 
pomp,  and  their  elegant  comedy  fuffered  by  too  vol- 
atile an  airinefs.  She  bellowed  upon  our  immortal 
Garrick,  the  moft  decided  preference,  and  fuperiority 
to  any  adlor  whom  (he  had  ever  feenw  The  opportu- 
nity which  (he  had  of  judging  his  powers,  was  fhort, 
and  fingular,  but  fully  enabled  her  to  form  a  deciiive- 
©pinion.     When  Garrick  vifited  Paris  for  the  la& 


CHAP.  XVIII.]  £K  FRANCE.  211 

f 

time,  fhe  was  juft  married.     This  celebrated  actor  had: 
letters  of  introduction  to  Monfieur  S— — .    At  a  large 

party  which  Monfieur  S formed  for  the  purpofe 

of  doing  honour  to  his  undiftinguifhed  vifitor,  he  ex- 
hibited feveral  fpecimens  of  his  unrivalled  talents..  I 
Amongft  others,  he  reprefented  in  dumb  mow,  by 
the  wonderful  powers  of  his  expreffive  countenance*, 
the  feelings  of  a  father,  who,,  in  looking  over  a  lofty 
balcony  with  his  only  child  in  his  arms,  by  accident 
dropped  it.  The  difafter  drove  the  unhappy  parent 
mad.  Garrick  had  vifited  him  in  his  cell  ;  where  the 
miferable  maniac  was  accufl.omed,  feveral  times  m  the 
courfe  of  the  day,  to  exhibit  all  thofe  looks  and  atti* 
tudes  which  he  had  difplayed  at  the  balcony.*  On  a 
fudden,  he  would  bend  himfelf  forward,  a6  if  looking 
from  a  window  into  the  ftreet,  with  his  arms  folded 
as  if  they  embraced  a  child,  then  he  would  ftart  back,, 
and  appear  as  if  he  had  lofl  fbmething,  fearch  the 
room,  round  and  round,  run  again  forward,  as  to  the 
railing  of  a  window,  look  down,  and  beat  hisforehead; 
as  if  he  had  beheld  his  infant  bleeding,  and  breath-, 
lefs  upon  the  pavement.  Garrick's  imitation  was  ex* 
quint  e.  The  feelings  of  his  beholders  were  wrought- 
up  ta  horror.  The  tears,  and  confternation  of  a  gay 
fafhionable  French  party,  were  applaufes  more  £atter~ 

*  The  caufe  which  induced  Garrick  to  vifit  this  un- 
happy perfon,  was,  it  is  faid,to  render  the reprcfcnU* 
lion  of  hi*  &in£  Lear  more  perfect 


213  THE  STRANGER  [CHA|*  XVIIP,. 

ing  to  the  Britifh  Rofcius,  than  the  thunder  of  that 
acclamation,  which,  in  the  crowded  theatre,  followed 
the  flam  of  his  fiery  eye,  or  the  clofe  of.  his  appalling 
ipeech..  , 

The  Englifh  drama,  however,  has  not  efcaped  the 
animadverfions  of  a  French  critic,  whofe  tafte  and 
liberality  aronot  very  congenial  with  thofe  of  my  char* 
ming,  and  generous  friend.  "  Their  tragedies,"  he 
fays,  (fpeaking  of  the  Englifh)  "it  is  true,  though 
«*  interefting,  and  replete  with  beauties,  are  neverthe*- 
"  lefs  dramatic  monfters,  half  butchery,  and  half  farce* 
«  Grotefque  characters,  and  extravagant  pleafantry 
"  conilitute  the  chief  part  of  their  comedies.  In  one 
"  of  them,  (not  named)  the  devil  enters  fneezing,  and , 
"  fomebody  fays  to  the  devil,  God  blefsycu.  They 
"  are  not,  however,  all  cf  this  ftamp.  They  have  even 
"fome'm  very  good  tafte."' 

Yes.  MonSeur  Doarx,  I  agree  with  you,  I  think 
we  have  fame  in  very  good  tafte.  I  know  not  in  what; 
dramatic  work  the  facetious  frenchman  has  difcover-. 
ed  the  introduaicn  cf  his  fatanic  majefty  under  the 
influence  of  a  cold,  and  receiving,  as  he  enters,  the, 
ufual  deprecation  on  fuch  occafions.  I  rather  fufpe£t 
that  the  adventures  of  Punch,  and  his  fickle  ladyy 
•who  are  always  attended  by .  a  dancing. demon,  have- 
afforded  the  materials  for  this  fapient  obfervation. 

In  the  courfe  of  one  of  my  morning  rambles  in  Pa- 
rtsvI  vifited  the  ruins  of  the  celebrated  Baftille,  ofs 
which  prifon,  only  the  arlenal,  fome.  fragments,  of.  i:&- 


CHAF.  XVIII.]  m  FRANCE.  213 

mafly  walls,  and  two  or  three  dungeons  remain.  Thd 
volcanic  vengeance  of  the  people,  has  fwept  away  this 
mighty  fabric,  which  the  revolting  mind  of  repub- 
lican liberty  denounced  as  the  frightful  den  of  defpo- 
tifm,  upon  the  approach  of  which  no  marks  of  return- 
ing footfteps  were  imprinted,  whilft,  in  her  mad  ca- 
reer, fhe  coverted  every  private  dwelling  in  the  me-* 
tropolis  into  a  revolutionary  prifon  :  So  much  for 
popular  confiftency  ! 

In  the  mutations  of  time,  to  what  different  pur^ 
pofes  are  the  fame  places  appplied  f  Where  the  con-J 
fuming  martyr  expired,*  the  unwieldy  prize  hog  if 
expofed  to  fale  ;  and  the  modern  Parifian  deri  ves  the 
fources  of  warmth  and  comfort,  from  a  place,  the  very 
name  of  which,  once  chilled  the  circulation  of  his 
blood.  The  fife  of  the  Baftille  is  now  a  magazine  of 
wood  which  fupplies  the  city  with  fuel. 

Every  lover  of  pure  liberty  mull  leap  with  delight 
upon  the  difincumbered  earth,  where  once  flood  that 
gloomy  abode  of "  broken  hearts,"  and  reflect  upon 
the  fufferings  of  the  wretched  Latude,  and  the  various 
victims  of  capricious  pique,  or  proflitute  refentment. 
It  was  here  that,  in  the  beautiful  lines  of  Cowper,  the 
hopeiefs  prifoner  was  doomed 

"  To  fly  for  refuge  from  diffracting  thought 
"  To  fuch  amufemenls  as  ingenious  woe 
"  Contrives,  hard  fhifting,  and  without  her  tools— 
M  To  read,,  engraven  en  the  mouldy  walls, 
.♦  Sflailbfiqld* 


214-  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP,   XYIIL 

'•'  In  {lagg'iing  types,  his  precVceffoi's  tale, 

*;  A  Tad  rEsrrr.oria!,  and  fubjoin  his  own-— 

V  To  turn  purveyor  to  an  overgorg'd 

u  And  bloated  fpider,  till  the  pampei'd  ptft 

"  Is  made  familiar,  watches  his  approach, 

iS  Comes  at  his  call,  and  ierves  him  for  a  fnenc%— " 

The  cells  of  the  Baftile  were  constantly  filled,  dur- 
ing the  fyren  reign  of  la  Pompadour  over  the  gloomy 
affections  of  Lewis  XV. 

The  overthrow  of  this  dungeon  has  not  rendered 
ftate  prifons  out  of  fafhion  in  the  republic,  although 
it  has  mitigated  the  feverity  of  their  internal  govern- 
ment. The  towers  of  the  Temple,  look  down  upoa 
the  profbrate  ruins  of  the  Baftille. 

From  this  memorable  fpot  of  ground,  I  went  to  the 
Obfervatory.  In  the  rooms,  which  open  upon  an  ar- 
tificial terrace,  were  fome  prodigious  agronomical  ap- 
paratus. A  very  ingenious  frame  was  then  construct- 
ing, for  elevating,  or  deprefimg  the  aftronomer,  and 
the  telefcope  at  the  fame  time,  by  >  an  eafy,  and  fim- 
ple  procefs  of  machinery.  The  Obfervatory  is  a  noble 
building,  and  contains  libraries*  Students'  rooms,  and 
apartments  for  the  various  artificers,  and  mechinifts 
who  are  occupied  in  fabricating  the  apparatus,  and 
inftruments  necefTary  to  the  fcience  of  aftronomy. 
From  the  exterior  of  the  dome,  there  is  a  fine  view  o£ 
*  the  city  furburbs,  and  country. 

From  the  Obfervatory,  I  vilited  the  Confervative- 
Senate,  formerly  the  Palace  of  Luxembourg.       The 


SHAP.  XVIII]  IN  FRANCE.  215 

back  of  this  beautiful  building  is  in  the  Rue  de  Vau- 
girand,  in  the  Fauxbourg  of  St.  Germains.  The 
gardens  of  this  noble  pile,  are  receiving  great  improve- 
ment, and  alteration,  from  defigns  which  have  bees 
approved  of  by  the  firft  conful,  who  in  his  wife  policy, 
intends  that  they  (hall,  in  time,  rival  thofe  of  the 
Thuilleries,  for  the  purpofe  of  affording  an  elegant, 
and  fafhionable  promenade  to  the  people  who  refide 
in  this  part  of  the  capital,  who  are  confidernbly  re- 
moved from  the  beautiful  walks  which  adorn  the 
confular  palace.  Here  I  faw  the  Hall  of  Deliberation, 
in  which  the  Confervative  Senate  alTembles.  It  is 
nothing  more  than  a  large,  handfome  drawing  room, 
in  which  are  placed,  upon  ruing  platforms,  fixty  armed 
chairs,  for  as  many  members,  the  chair  of  the  prefi- 
dent  and  the  tribune.  This  magnificent  palace  is  re- 
pairing', and  fitting  up  for  the  refidence,  and  accom- 
modation of  its  members.  I  was  introduced  to  the 
artift  who  has  the  care  of  the  gallery  here,  and  who, 
with  his  afilllants,  was  very  bufily  occupied  in  a  pro- 
cess for  removing  the  oil  colors  of  a  painting  from 
wood,  and  transferring  them  to  canvafs.  He  receiv- 
ed me  with  great  politenefs,  and  explained  to  me  the 
mode  of  doing  it,  in  which  there  appeared  to  be  more 
toil,  nicety,  and  fteadinefs  required,  than  ingenuity. 

The  painting  is  laid  upon  a  cloth  (Iretched  upon  a 
marble  flab,  and  the  wood  behind  is  fhaved  off  until 
nothing  but  the  picture,  like  a  flat  cake,  or  rather  a 
flieet  of  goldbeater's  fkin,  remains/ a  piece  of  canvas 


216  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.   XVHI. 

coated  with  a  cement  is  then  placed  upon  it,  to  which 
it  adheres,  and  prefents  ail  the  appearance  of  having 
been  originally  painted  upon  it.  The  pictures  from 
the  fubjectof  St.  Bruno,  were  then  undergoing  this 
operation. 

The  apartments  in  which  thefe  people  were  at 
work,  presented  very  convincing  indications  of  the 
mutability  of  human  ambition. 

This  palace  was  allotted  to  the  celebrated  Council 
of  Five  Hundred.  During  their  ephemeral  reign, 
thefe  very  rooms  were  designed  fortheir  halls  of  audi- 
ence, and  levees,  the  rich  mouldings,  and  cornices  of 
which  were  half  gik,  and  covered  with  filver  paper 
to  preferve  them  :  the  poor  council  were  never  indul- 
ged in  a  houfe  warming. 

The  pictures,  which,  were  collected  by  Henry  IV. 
and  deposited  in  the  gallery  there,  which  bears  his 
name,  are  &id  to  be  valuable.  I  did  not  fee  them,  on 
account  of  their  having  been  removed  into  ftore  rooms 
during  the  repairs  of  the  palace. 

It  was  late  when  I  left  the  Luxembourg,  and  fome- 
what  exhaufted  for  want  of  refrefhment,  I  determined 
upon  dining  at  the  fir  ft  reftaurateur's  which  I  could 
meet  with,  inftead  of  going  to  the  Gardens  of  the 
Thuilleries.  To  find  fuch  an  accommodation  in  Paris, 
is  no  difficult  thing.  A  ftranger  would  naturally  fup- 
pofe,  from  the  frequency  with  which  the  words  caffe, 
limonade,and  reftaurateur  prefent  themfelves  to  the 
eye,  that  three  parts  of  the  inhabitants  had  turned 


"©HAP.  XViil]  IN" TRANCE. 

their  talents  to  the  Valuable  ftudy  of  relieving  the  cra- 
vings of  an  empty  ftomach. 

I  had  not  moved  three    yards  down  the  Rue  de 
Tournon,  before,  on  my  left,  I  faw  the  welcome  board 
which,  in  large  golden  characters  announced  the  very 
heft  entertainment  within.     At  this  moment,  the  cel- 
ebrated picture  of  the  banquet  of  the  Louvre,  could 
fcarcely  have   afforded  me  more  delight.     I  had  an 
excellent  dinner,  wine  and  fruit  for  four  livres.     In 
the  courfe  of  my  repaft,  I  begged  that  a  knife,  might 
be  permitted  to  aid  the  ferviees  of  a  three  pronged 
iilver  fork,  which  graced  my  plate  on  the  left.    After 
rather  a  laborious  fearch,  my  wiihes  were  gratified  by 
an  inftrument,    which   certainly  was  entitled  to  the 
name  of  one,  but  was  affuredly  not  the  handfomeft  of 
its  fpecies.     Whether  there  had  been  any  difpute  be- 
tween the  handle,  and  the  blade  I  know  not,  but  there 
were  very  evident  appearances  of  an  approaching  fep- 
^ration.  Not  wifhing  to  augment  the  rapture,  between 
two  perfonages  fo  neceflary  to  each  others  fervice,  and 
to  thofe  who  were  to  be  benefitted  by  it,  T.  begged  of 
my  fair   hoftefs,  who,    with  two   pretty   girls  (  her 
daughters,)  were  picking  the  italks  from  fome  draw- 
berries,  which  were  intended'  for  my  defert,  at  the 
Qther  end  of  the  room,  that  me  would  favor  me  with 
another  knife.     The  MaitrefTe  d'hote!,  who  had  a  pair 
of  fine  dark  exprefEve  eyes,  very  archly  faid,  "Why 
"would  you  wifh  to  change  it,  Sir  ?  it  is  an  Engiim 
"one."     It  certainly  looked  like   one  %  no  compli- 
T 


218  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XVIII. 

me  it  could  bo  neater.  Whether  I  gave  it  too  great 
a  latitude  of  interpretation,  I  will  not  pretend  to  fay, 
but  it  led  me  into  fuch  a  train  of  happy  comparative 
thinking)  that  I  ate  my  dinner  with  it  very  comfortably 
without  faying  another  word.  I  have  fince  thought 
that  the  MaitrefTe  d'hotel  had  not  another  knife  in  her 
houfe,  but  what  was  in  ufe. 

In  France,  I  have  before  had  occafion  to    remark, 
that  fanciful  notions  of  exceflive  delicacy,  are  not  per- 
mitted to  interfere  with  comfort,  and  convenience. 
Amongft  thefe  people,  every   thing  turns  upon  the 
principle  of  accommodation.     To  this  motive  I  attri- 
bute the  frequent  exhibition,    over  the  doors  of  ref- 
pectable  looking  houfes,  in  the   fafhionable   walks, 
aniin  different  parts  of  Paris,  of   the  following  char- 
acters, "Commodites  pour  Hommes,    et  Femmes." 
An  Englith   prude  would  ftart  to  read  thefe  words. 
I  mention  this  circumftance,  for  the  purpofe-of  com- 
municating fome  idea  of  the  people,  convinced,  as  well 
I  am,  that  it  is  only  by  detail,  that  we  can  become  ac- 
quainted with  the  peculiar  characteriftics  of  any  com- 
munity. 

I  very  often  paiTed  by  the  ci-devant  Hall  of  the 
National  Convention  ;  in  which  the  haplefs  king  and 
queen  were  doomed  to  the  fcaffold,  where  murder 
was  legitimated,  religion  denounced,  and  the  grave 
declared  to  be  the  bed  of  eternal  repofe. 

In  vindication  of  the  ways  of  eternal  juftice,  even 
upon  earth,  this  polluted  pile  is  participating  the  fete 
0f  its  devoted  members. 


CHAP.  XVIIL]  IN  FRANCE.  219 

Thofe  walls  which  once  refounded  with  the  florid, 
high  toned  declamation  of  republican  vifionaries  the 
mod  worthlefs,  impfiong,  and  defparate  of  mankind, 
are  prevented  for  a  fhort  time,  by  a  few  crazy  props, 
from  covering  the  earth  below  with  their  duft  and 
ruins.  The  famed  temple  of  the  Goddefs  of  Liberty, 
is  not  tenantable  enough  to  cover  the  Babel  Deity 
from  the  peltings  of  the  midnight  ftorm. 

Where  is  now  the  enthufiaftic  Gironede,  where 
the  volcanic  mountain,  the  fiery  and  eloquent  Mira- 
beau,  the  wily  BrifTot,  the  atheiftic  Lequinois,  the  re- 
morfelefs  Marat,  the  bloody  St,  Juft  and  the  chief  of 
the  deplumed  and  fallen  legions  of  equality  ?  All  is 
defolate  andfilent.  The  gaping  planks  of  the  guillo- 
tine are  imbued  with  their  laft  traces.  The  haunt  of 
the  banditti  is  uncovered.  The  revolution  has  prey- 
ed upon  her  own  children,  and  metaphyseal  murder- 
ers have  perifhed  by  the  daggers  of  fpeculative  repub- 
licans. 

About  two  years  fince  this  place  wag  converted  in- 
to a  menagerie.  The  cave,  and  the  wildernefs.,  the 
defert,  and  the  jungle,  prefented  tc*the  eye  of  the  be- 
holder, reprefentative  fucceflbrs  of  thofe  favages  who, 
with  more  powers  and  more  ferocity,  were  once  en- 
clofed  within  the  fame  den.  From  the  remembrance 
of  fuch  mifcreants,  I  turn,  with  increafed  fatisfaction, 
to  the  traces  of  approaching  civilization,  which  mark 
the  career  of  the  prefent  government,  in  which  the 
want  of  fuitable  fplendor  no  longer  repels  ~the  ap- 


£20  THE    STRANGE*  [CHAP.    XVIII. 

proach  and  friendfhip  of  thofe  nations  whkh  once 
fhuddered  at  the  idea  of  coming  into  contact  with, 
the  infected  rags  of  vifionary  fraternity.  Some  indi- 
cations of  this  change  I  law  pourtrayed  at  the  levee  of 
Monfieur  Talleyrand,  the  minifter  of  foreign  rela- 
tions, when  I  had  the  honor  of  being  prefented  to  that 
able  and  celebrated  politician  by  Mr.  B.  The  hotel 
of  Talleyrand -Is  very  fuperb.  We  entered  the  court 
yard  tlirough  two  lines  of  about  twenty  carriages  in 
waiting.  Under  the  portico,  were  feveral  Turks  feat- 
ed,  who  formed  a  part  of  the  fuite  of  the  Turk 

dor,  who  had  juft  arrived,  and  vras  then  clofet- 
ted  with  Mon&eor  T-r— , 

[ed  through  feveral  noble  apartments,  pre- 
ceded by  fervants,  to  a  magnificent,  levee  room,  in 
Lioh  we  met  moil  of  the  foreign  ambafFadors  who 
were  then  at  the  confelar  court. 

After  waiting  fome  time,  the  folding  doors  of  the 
cabinet  opened,  the  Turkifh  embaiTy  came  out,  ma- 
king their  grand  falams,  followed  by  Talleyrand,  in. 
his  rich  coltuine  of  embroidered  fcarlet,  his  hair  full 
dreiTed,  and  a  fhining  fabre  by  his  fide. 

In  his  perfon,  he  is  ilnail  and  thin,  his  face  is  «  pale 
m  and  penetrating."  Ke  always  looks  obliquely,  his 
fmaii«quick  eyes  and  features,  very  legibly  exprefs 
mildnefs,  wit,  and  fubtilty.  H&  right  leg  appears 
contracted.  His  addrefc.  is  iniinuating.  As  the  fpirlt 
Of^ffffrandizemait,  which  ti  hid  to  have  actuated  the 

DO  ' 

public  and  private  conduct  of  Monfieur  T— — 


CM AP.  XVIII.]  IN    FRANCE.  221 

been  fo  much  talked  of,  it  may,  perhaps,  excite  fome 
iiirprife,  when  it  is  mentioned  that  feveral  perfons 
who  know  him  well,  fome  of  whom  efteem  him,  and 
with  fome  of  whom  he  is  not  a  favorite,  declare,  not- 
withstanding the  anecdotes  related  of  X  Y,  and  Mon- 
fieur  Beaucoup  d' Argent,  in  the  American  prints, 
that  they  confider  him  to  be  a  man,  whofe  mind  is 
raifed  above  the  influence  of  corruption.     Monfieur 

T may  be  claffed  amongft   the  rareft  curiofities 

in  the  revolutionary  cabinet.  Allied  by  an  illuftrious 
anceftry  to  the  Bourbons,  and  a  royalift  from  his 
birth,- he  was,  with  unufual  celerity,  inverted  with  the 
epifcopal  robe  and  cr oiler.*  During  the  temporary 
triumph  of  the  abftract  rights  of  man,  over  the  prac- 
ticable rights  of  reafon,  he  moved  with  the.boifterous 
cavalcade,  with  more  caution  than  enthufiafm.  Up- 
on the  celebrated  national  recognition  of  the  fover- 
eignty  of  man's  ivil/y  in  the  Champs  de  Mars,  the  po- 
litic minifter,  adorned  in  fnowy  robes,  and  tricolor  ri- 
bands, presided  at  the  altar  of  the  republic  as  its  high, 
prieft,  and  beftowed  his  patriarchal  benedictions  up- 
on the  ftandard  of  France,  and  the  banners  oi  her  de- 
partments- 
Some  time  afterwards,  in  the  fhape  of  a  fecret  un- 
accredited negociator,  he  was  difcovered  in^the  me- 
tropolis of  England,  and  immediately  transferred* 
upon  die  fpread  wings  of  the  alien,  bill,,  to  his.  owr.u 

*  M;nf:;ur  Talleyrand  is  ex.  bifhcg  of  &&&»,, 

T  2 


S'22  THE  STRANGER-  [CHAP.  XVI 11: 

fhores.  Since  that  period,  after  having  diifociated 
and  neutralized  the  mod  formidable  foes  of  his  coun- 
try, by  the  fubtle  ftratagems  of  his  confummate  diplo- 
macy, we  beheld  him  as  the  fuccefTor  of  la  Croix, 
armed  with  the  powers,  and  clothed  in  the  gaudy 
coflume  of  the  minifter  of  foreign  relations.  In  the 
pdijhed l Babel  of  the  anti-chamber  of  this  extraordi- 
nary man,  I  have  beheld  the  ftarred  and  glittering  re- 
prefer.tatives  of  the  moft  diiiinguifhed  princes  of  the: 
earth,  waiting  for  hours,  with  exemplary  resignation, 
contemplating  themfelves,  in  all  their  pofitions,  in  his 
reduplicating  mirrors,  or  examining  the  fplendor  and 
exquiiite  ingenuity  of  his  time  pieces,  until  the  filver 
founds  of  his  little  bell  announced,  that  the  invoked 
and  lagging  moment  of  miniiterial  leifure  was  arrived. 
It  is  certain  that  few  people  pofTefs  the  valuable 
qualities  of  imperturbable  calmnefs  and  felf  pofTeffion, . 

more  than  Momieur  T .       Balanced  by   thefe 

amiable  and  valuable  qualities,  he  has-been  enabled 
to  ride  the  political  whirlwind,  and  in  the  diplomatic 
cabinet,  to  collect  fome  advantage  from  the  prejudi- 
ces or  paflions  of  all  who  approached  hiiru  The  cau- 
tion and  cunning  of  T- have  fucceeded,  where 

the  fword  and  impetuous  fpirit  of  Bonaparte  would 
have  been  unavailing.  The  fplendor  of  his  apart- 
ments, and  of  many  of r  the.perfonages  prefent,  dif- 
played  a  very  court-like  appearance,  and  inclined  a 
Granger,  like  myfelf;  to  thfnjs,  that  nothing  of  the 
eld  government  was  miflingibut  the  expatriated  fam- 
ily of  France, 


i f.  X1X:\  IN    FRANCE-  22$5 

CHAP.  XIX. 

The   College  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb. — Abbe  Sicard. 

Bagatelle.— Police. — Grand  National  Library.— 
Bonaparte's  Review. — Tambour  Major  of  the  Confu* 
lar  Regiment. — Ref oration  of  Artillery  Colors. 

I  HAD  long  anticipated  the  delight  which!  ex- 
pected to  derive  from  the  interefting  public  lecture  of 
the  abbe  Sicard,  and  the  examination  of  his  pupils,. 
This  amiable  and  enlightened  man  prefides  over  an 
inftitution  which  endears  his  name  to  humanity,  and. 
confers  unfading  honor  upon  the  nation  which  cher- 
ifhes  it  by  its  protection  and  munificence.  My  read- 
er will  immediately  conclude  that  I  ..allude,  to  the  Col- 
lege of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb.  Ey  the  genius  and  per- 
feverance  of  the  late  abbe  Charles  Michael  de  FEpee, 
and  his  prcfent  amiable  f  iiccefibr>  a  race  of  fellow  be- 
ings, denied  by  a  privation  of  hearing,  of  the  powers 
of  utterance,  infuiated  in  the,  midft  of  multitudes 
bearing  their  own  image,  and  cut  off  from  the  partici- 
pation, within  fight,  of  all  the  endearing  intercourfes 
of  focial  life,  are  reftored,  as  it  were,  to  the  bleflings- 
of  complete  exigence.  The  glorious  labors  of  thefe 
philanthropies,  in  no  vei?y  diftant  ages,  would  have 
conferred  upon  them,  the  reputation  and  honor  of 
beings  inverted,  with  fuperhuman  influence.  By  mak- 
ing thofe  faculties  which,  are  beftowed,  auxiliary  to 
thofe  which  are  denied,  the  deaf  are  taught  to  heaiy 
and  the  dumb  to  fpeak.     A  file-nt  representative  Ian?- 


224  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.    XIX. 

guage,  in  which  the  eye  officiates  for  the  ear,  and 
communicates  the  charms  of  fcience,  and  the  delights 
of  common  intercourfe  to  the  mind,  with  the  veloci- 
ty, facility,  and  certainty  of  found,  has  been  'prefent- 
ed  to  thefe  imperftct  children  of  nature,  The  plan 
of  the  abbe,  I  believe  is  before  the  world.  It  cannot 
be  expected,  in  a  fugitive  iketch  like  the  prefent,  to 
attempt  an  elaborate  detail  of  it.  Some  little  idea  of 
its  rudiments,  may  perhaps,  be  imparted,  by  a  plain 
defcription  of  what  paffed  on  the  examination  day, 
when  I  had  the  happinefs  of  being  prefent. 

On  the  morning  of  the  exhibition,  the  flreets  lead- 
ing to  the  College  were  lined  with  carriages,  for  hu- 
manity has  here  made  a  convert  of  fafhion,  and  di- 
rected her  wavering  mind  to  objects  from  which  fhe 
cannot  retire,  without  ample  and  confoling  gratifica- 
tion. Upon  the  lawn,  in  front  of  the  College,  were 
groups  of  the  pupils,  enjoying  thofe  fports  and  exer- 
cifes  which  are  followed  by  other  children,  to  whom 
Providence  has  been  more  bountiful.  Some  of  their 
recreations  required  calculation,  and  I  obferved  that 
their  intercourfe  with  each  ether  appeared  to  be  eafy,. 
fvvift,  and  intelligible.  They  made  fome  convulflve 
movements  with  their  mouths,  in  the  courfe  of  their 
communication,  which  at  firfl,  had  rather  an  unpleaf- 
ant  effect.  In  the  cloifter  I  addreiled  myfelf  to  a 
genteel  looking  youth,  who  did  not  appear  to  belong 
to  the  College,  and  requefted  him  to  fhow  me  the 
way  to  the  theatre,  in  which  the  lecture  was  to  fee 


GHAP.  XIX.  j  1U  FRANCE,  225, 

delivered.  I  found  he  took  no  notice  of  me.  One  of 
the  affirmants  of  the  abbe,  who  was  {landing  near  me, 
informed  me,  he  was  deaf  and  dumb,  and  made  two 
or  three  figns,  too  fwift  for  me  to  difcriminate  ^  the 
iilent  youth  bowed,  took  me  by  the  hand,  led  me  in- 
to the  theatre,  and,  with  the  greater!:  politenefs,  pro- 
cured me  an  excellent  feat.  The  room  was  very 
crowded,  and  in  the  courfe  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour  af- 
ter I  had  entered,  every  avenue  leading  to  it  was  com- 
pletely filled  with  genteel  company.  The  benches 
of  the  auditors  of  the  lecture,  difplayed  great  beauty 
&nd  faihion  ;  a  ftage  or  tribune*  appeared  in  front, 
behind  was  a  large  inclined  Hate,  in  a  frame,  about 
eight  feet  high,  by  fix  long.  On  each  iide  of  the 
ftage  the  fcholars  were  placed,  and  behind  the  fpec- 
tators  was  a  fine  buft  of  the  founder  of  the  inftitution, 
the  admirable  de  l'Epee. 

The  abbe  Sicard  mounted  the  tribune,  and  deliver- 
ed his  lecture  with  very  pleafing  addrefs,  in  the  courfe 
of  which  he  frequently  excited  great  applaufe.  The 
fubjedtofit  was  an  analylis  of  the  language  of  the 
deaf  and.  dumb,  interfperfed  with  fevcral  curious  ex- 
periments upon,  and  anecdotes  of  his  pupils.  The 
examination  of  the  fcholars  next  followed.  The 
communication  which  has  been  opened  to  them  in 
this  fingular  manner,   is  by  the  philofophy  of  grammar. 

The  denotation  of  the  tenfes  was  effected  by  ap- 
propriate figns.  The  hand  thrown  over  the  Ihculckt 
«xpreffed  the  paftj  when  extended,  like  the   attitude 


226  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIX. 

of  inviting,  it  denoted  the  future,  and  the  finger  in- 
verted upon  the  breaft,  indicated  the  prefent  tenfe. 
A  fingle  fign  communicated  a  word,  and  frequently 
a  fentence.  A  lingular  inftance  of  the  firft  occurred. 
A  gentleman  amongft  the  fpectators,  who  appeared 
to  be  acquainted  with  the  art  of  the  abbe,  was  re- 
qu-efted  to  make  a  fign,  to  the  pupil  then  under  ex- 
amination ;  the  moment  it  was  made,  the  fcholar 
chalked  upon  the  ilate,  in  a  fine  fwift  flowing  hand, 
"  une  homme."  The  pupil  erred  ;  the  gentleman 
renewed  the  fign  j  when  he  immediately  wrote, 
«'  une  perfonne,"  to  the  afionifhment  of  every  perfo^v. 
prefent.  This  circumftance  is  a  ftrong  inftance  of 
the  powers  of  difcrimination,  of  which  this  curious 
communication  is  fufceptible. 

Some  of  the  fpectators  requested  the  abbe  to  des- 
cribe, by  figns,  feveral  fentences  which  they  repeated 
from  memory,  or  read  from  authors  which  were  im- 
mediately underftood  by  the  pupils  and  penciled  upon 
the  flate. 

The  lecture  and  examination  lafted  about  three 
hours.  Upon  the  clofe  of  this  interefting  exhibition, 
a  filent  fympathy  reigned  throughout  the  Spectators. 
Every  face  beamed  with  Satisfaction.  A  tear  was  {een 
trembling  in  the  eyes  of  many  prefent.  After  a 
momentary  paufe,  the  hall  rang  with  acclamations. 
Elegant  women  preffed  forward  in  the  crowd,  to  pre- 
fent fome  little  token  of  their  delighted  feelings  to 
the  children  protected  by  this  inftitution.     It  was  a 


GHAP.  XIX.]  IN    FRANCE.  227 

fpe&acle,  in  which  genius  was  obferved  aflifting  hu- 
manity, and  nature  in  a  fuffuiion  of  gratitude,  weeping 
over  the  hallowed  and  propitious  endeavors  of  the 
good,  the  generous  and  the  eniightened.  Well  might 
the  elegant  and  eloquent  Kotzebue  felecl:  from  fuch  a 
fpot,  a  fubjecl:  for  his  pathetic  pen,  and  give  to  the 
Britifh  Rofcius  of  the  prefent  day,*  the  power  of  en- 
riching its  drama,  by  a  frefh  difplay  of  his  unrivalled 
abilities.  The  exhibition  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb, 
will  never  be  eradicated  from  my  mind. 

The  tears  which  were  fhed  on  that  day,  feemed  al- 
moft  fufficient  to  wipe  away  the  recollection  of  thofe 
times,  in  which  mifery  experienced  no  mitigation  ; 
when  every  one,  trembling  for  himfelf,  had  no  unab- 
forbed  fenfation  of  confoling  pity  to  beftow  upo'n  the 
unfortunate.  Thofe  times  are  gone — May  their  ab- 
fence  be  eternal  ! 

This  inftitution  is  made  ferviceable  to  the  ftate.  A 
pupil  of  the  College  is  one  of  the  chief  clerks  of  the 
National  Lottery  office,  in  which  he  diftinguifhes 
himfelf  by  his  talents,  his  calculation,  and  upright  de- 
portment. 

Whilft  the  lubject  is  before  me,  I  beg  leave  to  men- 
tion a  curious  circumftance  which  was  related  by  a 
very  ingenious  ^and  honourable  man,  in  a  party  where 
I  happened  to  be  prefent,  to  prove  the  truth  andagree- 

*  Mr.  Kemble  brought  out  the  pathetic  j)lay  of  Deaf 
and  Dumb,  in  which  he  fufbins  the  character  of  the 
abbe  de  l'Epec  with  admirable  c£Icft. 


'2®S  ,  THE   STRANGER  *  [CHAP.  XlX. 

aaent  of  nature,  in  her  afipciation  of  ideas.  A  blind 
man  being  afked  by  him,  to  what  found  he  refembled 
the  fenfation  produced  by  touching  a  piece  of  red 
<:loth,  he  immediately  replied,  to  the  found  of  a  trum- 
pet. A  pupil  of  the  College  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb, 
Vho  could  faintly  hear  a  loud  noife,  if  applied  clofe 
to  his  ear,  was  afked,  to  what  colour  he  could  com- 
pare the  found  of  a  trumpet,  he  faid,  it  always  excited 
in  his  mind,  the  remembrance  of  fcarlet  cloth.* 

Two  pupils,  male  and  female  of  the  fame  College-, 
who  had  been  placed  near  a  cannon,  when  difchar- 
ged,  without  being  fufceptible  of  the  found,owere 
one  day  taken  by  their  humane   tutor,  into  -a  room 
where  the  harmonica  was  playing  ;  a  mufical  inftru- 
ment,  which  is  faid  to  have  a  powerful  influence  over 
the  nerves.     He  afked  them  by  figns,  if  they  felt  any 
fenfation.     They  rallied  in  the  negative.     He  then 
placed  the  hand  of  the  girl  upon  the  inftrument  whilfl 
it  was  playing,  ana  repeated  the  queftion,  (he  anfwer- 
ed  that  ihe  felt  a  new  pleafure  enter  the  ends  of  her 
fingers,  pafs  up  her  arms,  and  penetrate  her  heart. 
The'  fame  experiment  was  tried  upon  her  compan- 
ion, who  feemed  to  be  fenfible  of  iimilar  fenfationsof 
delight,  but  lefs  acutely  felt. 

The  emotions  of  fympathy  are,  perhaps,  more  for- 
cibly excited  by  muiic  than  by  any  other  caufe.  Ah 
iiluftrious  example  of  its  effect  is   introduced   into 

*  Ths  firft  experiment  is  well  knowr.  It  is  alTo 
hoiked  in  Locke  upon  the  Human  UtklerftancUr»g» 


CHAP.  XIX.]  IN  FRANCE.  229 

Beerhaave's  academical  lectures  on  the  difeafes  of 
the  nerves,  published  by  Van  Eems.  Theodoiius 
the  Great,  by  levying  an  exceffive  tribute,  inflamed 
the  minds  of  the  people  of  Antioch  againfl  him,  who 
proftrated  his  ftatutes,  and  flew  his  ambafiadors. 

Upon  coolly  reflecting  on  what  they  had  done,  and 
remembering  the  ftern  and  ruthlefs   nature  of  their 
fovereign,  they  fent  deputies  to  implore  his  clemency 
and  forgivenefs.     The  tyrant  received  them,  without 
making  any  reply.     His  chief  minifter  lamenting  the 
condition  of  thefe  unhappy  people,  refolvcd  upon  an 
expedient  to  move  the  foul  of  his  offended  prince  to 
mercy.     He  accordingly  inftructed  the  youths  whofe 
office  it  was  to  entertain  the  emperor  with  mufic  dur- 
ing dinner,  to  perform  an  affecting  and  pathetic  piece 
of  muficj  compofed  for  the  purpofe.     The  plaintive 
founds  foon  began  to  operate.     The  Emperor,  un- 
confcious  of  the  caufe,  bedewed  his  cup  with  tears, 
and  when  the  lingers  artfully  proceeded  to  defcribe 
the  fufferings  of  the  people  of  Antioch,  their  impe- 
rial  matter    could  no   longer   contain  himfelf,  but, 
moved  by   their  pathos,  although  unaccuftomed  to 
forgive,  revoked  his  vengeance,  and  reftored  the  ter- 
rified offenders  to  his  royal  favor. 

Madame  E ,  who  is  confidered  the  firft  dilet- 
tante miffrefs  of  muflc  in  Paris,  related  to  me,  an 
experiment  which  fhe  once  tried  upon  a  young  woman 
who  was  totally  deaf  and  dumb.  Madame  E— 
fattened  a  filk  thread  about  her  mouth,  and  reited  the 
U 


$S0  THE  STRANGER  [CH'AP.  XIX. 

other  end  upon  her  piano  forte,  upon  which  fhe  play- 
ed a  pathetic  air.  Her  vifitor  foon  appeared  much 
affected,  and  at  length  burft  into  tears.  When  fhe 
recovered,  fhe  wrote  down  upon  a  piece  of  paper, 
that  fhe  had  experienced  a  delight,  which  fhe  could, 
not  exprefs,  and  that  it  had  forced  her  to. weep. 

I  muft  reluctantly  retire  from  this  pleafing  fubjec% 
by  wifhing  that  the  abbe  may  long  enjoy  a  feries  of 
blifsful  years,  and  that  his  noble  endeavors,  "  mani- 
«  fefting  the  enlightened  times  in  which  we  live," 
may  meet  with  that  philanthropic  fuccefs,  which  to  Ms 
generous  mind,  will  be  its  mod  defired  reward  here  ; 
affured,  as  he  is,  of  being  crowned  with  thofe  unfading 
remunerations  which  are  promifed  to  the  good  hereof- 

I  one  day  dined  at  Bagatelle,  which  is  abouftsjBpur 
miles  from  Paris,  in  the  Bois  du  Bologne,  the  ParSan 
Hyde  Park,  in  which  the  fafhionable  equefrrian,  upon 
his  Norman  hunter, 


with  heel  infidioufly  alide, 


Provokes  the  canter  which  he  feems  to  chide." 

The  duellift  alfo,  in  the  covert  windings  of  thij 
vaft  wood,  feeks  reparation  for  the  trifling  wrong,  and 
blee*ds  himfelf,  or  flaughters  his  antagonift.  Bagatel- 
le was  formerly  the  elegant  little  palace  of  the  count 
d'Artois.  The  gardens  and  grounds  belonging  to  it,  , 
are  beautifully  difpofed.  What  a  contraft  to  the 
gloomy  fhades  of  Holyroo  ,d  Houfe,iii  which  the  roy- 


CHAP.  XIX]        IN  FRANCE.  231 

al  fugitive,  and  his  wretched  followers,  have  found  an 

afylum  ! 

The  building  and  gardens  are  the  tafte  of  the  Pet- 
it Trianon,  but  inferior  to  it.  As  ufual,  it  is  the  refi- 
dence  of  cooks,  and  fcullions,  tenants  of  the  govern- 
ment, who  treat  their  vifitors  with  good  dinners,  and 
excellent  wine,  and  take  good  care  to  make  them  pay 
handfomely  for  their  faultlefs  fare. 

Returning  to  my  hotel  rather  late  at  night,  I  patted 
through  the  Champs  Elifees,  which,  at  this  hour, 
feemed  to  be  in  all  its  glory.  Every  «  alley  green," 
was  filled  with  whifpering  lovers.  On  all  fides  the 
founds  of  feftivity,  of  mufic,  and  dancing,  regaled  the 
ear.  The  weather  was  very  fultry,  and  being  a  little 
fatigued  with  rather  a  long  walk,  I  entered  through  a 
trellis  palifade  into  a  capacious  pavilion,  where  I  re- 
freshed myfelf  with  lemonade. 

Here  I  found  a  large  bourgeois  party  enjoying 
themfelves,  after  the  labors  of  the  day,  with  the  waltz, 
and  their  favorite  beverage,  lemonade.  A  ftranger 
is  always  furprifed  at  beholding  the  grace  and  activ- 
ity, which  even  the  loweft  orders  of  people  in  France, 
diiplay  in  dancing.  Whilkered  corporals,  in  thick 
ciirty  boots,  and  young  tradefmen,  in  long  great  coats, 
led  off  their  refpecYive  femmes  de  chambre  and  grif- 
ettes,  with  an  elegance,  which  is  not  to  be  furpaffed 
in  the  jewelled  birth  night  ball  room.  Nothing  could 
exceed  the  fprightly  careleffnefs,  and  gay  indifference 
which  reigned  throughout.     The  mufic  in  this  place 


232  THE   STKANGER  [CHAP.  XIX. 

as  ia  every  other  of  a  flmilar  defcription,  was  excel- 
lent. 

The  French  police,  notwithstanding  the  invidious 
rumors  which  have  been  circulated  to  its  prejudice,  Is 
the  conftant  fubject  of  admiration  with  every  candid 
foreigner,  who  is  enabled  under  the  Shelter  of  its  pro- 
tection, to  perambulate  in  fafety  every  part  of  Paris, 
and  its  fuburbs,  although  badly  lighted,  at  that  hour 
of  the* night,  which  in  England,, feidom  fails  to  expofe 
the  unwary  wanderer  to  the  piftol  of  the  prowling 
ruffian.  An  enlightened  friend  of  mine,  very  fhrewd- 
ly  obferved,  that  the  Englifh  police  feemsto  direct  its 
powers,  and  conuderation  more  to  the  apprehenfion 
of  the  rcbber,  than  to  the  prevention  of  the  robbery. 
In  no  country  is  the  art  of  thief  catching  carried 
higher,  than  in  England.  In  France,  the  police  is  in 
the  hlgheft  ftate  of  refpec"kabiKty,  and  unites  force- to 
vigilance.  The  depredator  who  is  fortunate  enough 
to  efczpe  the  former,  k  feldom  able  to  elude  the  latter. 

The  Grand  National  Library  of  Paris,  is  highly  tle- 
ig  of  a  vifit,  and  ia  coniidered  to  be  the  firft  of 
.i  in   Europe.     In  one  of  the  rooms  is  a  mufe- 
n;ii  of  .     The  whole  is  about  to  be  removed 

to  the  old  palace.  In  one  of  the  wings  of  this  noble 
collection,  are  the  two  celebrated  great  globes,  which 
reft  upon  the  ground,  and  rife  through  the  flooring 
of  the  firft  (lory,  where  there  is  a  railing  round  them. 
Thefe  globes  I  fhouid  uippofe  to  be  about  eighteen 
feet  high. 

o 


OHAP.  XIX.]  IN  FRANCE.  233 

From  the  Grand  National  Library,  I  went  with  a 
party  to  the   military  review  of  all  the  regiments  in 
Paris,  and  its  fuburbs  by  the  firft:  conful,  in  the  Place 
de   Caroufel,  within  the  gates,  and  railing  which  he 
has  raifed  for  this  purpofe.     We  were  introduced  in- 
to the  apartments  of  general  Duroc,  the  governor  of 
the  palace,  which  were  upon    the  ground  floor  of  the 
Thuilleries,  and  which  afford  ed  us  an  uninterrupted 
view  of  the  whole  of  this  fuperb  milLary    fpec"tacle.. 
A  little  before   twelve  o'clock,  all  the  regiments  of 
horfe  and  foot,  amounting  to  about    7000  men,  had 
formed  the  line,  when  the  confular  regiment  entered* 
preceded  by  their  fine  band,  and  the  tambour  major  , 
who  was  dreffed  in  great  magnificence.     This  man  is 
remarked  in  Paris  for  his  fymmetry  and  manly  beauty. 
The  cream  colored  charger  of  Bonaparte,  upon  which, 
««  laboring  "  for  deftiny,  he  has  often  made  dreadful 
«  way  in  the  field  of  battle,*  next  paned  us,  led  by 
grooms  in  fplendid  liveries  of  green  and  gold,  to  the 
grand  entrance.     As  the  clock  ft  ruck  twelve,  the  firft: 
conful,  fin-rounded  by  a  chofen  body  of  the  confular 
guard,  appeared  and  mounted.     He  immediately  rode 
off  in  full  fpeed,  to  the  gate  neareft  to  the  gallery  of 
the  Louvre,  followed  by  his  favorite  generals,  fuperb- 
ly  attired,  mounted  upon  chargers  very  richly  capa- 
rifoned,     My  eye,   aided  by  a  good  opera  glafs,  was 
fixed  upon    the  firft  conful.     I   beheld  before  me  a 
man  whofe  renown  is  founded  through  the  remoteft: 
regions  of  the  earth*  and  whofe  exploits  have  been  urii- 
U  2 


2S4(  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIX. 

ted  by  the  worshippers  of  favored  heroifm  to  thofe  of 
the  conqueror  of  Darius.     His  features  are  {mall  and 
meagre.     His  countenance  is  melancholy,  cold  and 
defperate.     His  nofe  is.  aquiline.     His  eyes  are  dark, 
fiery,  and  full  of  genius.     His  hair,  which  he  wears 
►   cropped  and  without  powder,  is  black.     His  figure  is 
imall,  but  very  mufcular.     He  wore  a  blue  coat,  with 
brcted  white  facings  and  golden  epaulets  (the  uniform 
of  his  regiment)  a  final  1  cocked,  hat,  in  which  was  a 
little   national  cockade.     In  his  hand  he  carried  a 
imall  riding,  whip.     His  boots  were  made  in  the  fafli- 
ion  of  En glilh  riding  boots,  which  I  have  before  con* 
demned  on  account  of  their  being  deflitute  of  military 
appearance.     The  reafon  why  they  are  preferred  by. 
the  French  officers  is  on  account  of  the  top  leather  not 
ioiling  the  knees  of  the  pantaloons  when  in  the  act  of 
putting   one  leg  over  the    other.     Bonaparte  rede 
through  the  lines.     His  beautiful  charger  feemed  con-* 
fclous  of  the, glory  of  his  rider,  and  bore  him  through. 
the  ranks  with  a  commanding  and    majeft-ic   pace. 
TJaa  colors  of  one  of  the  regiments  was  Rationed  clofe 
under  the  window,  where  I  had  the  good  fortune  of 
being,  placed*     Here  the.  hero  flopped,  and  faluted. 
tlieiEL     At  this  time  I  was  clofe  to   him,  and  had, 
the  pleafure  of  completely  gratifying  that  cur  iofity  of 
beholding  the  perfons  of  criftinguifhed  men,  which  is. 
lo  natural  to  all  of  us. 

A  few  minutes  after  Bonaparte  had  palled,  I  faw  a. 
j     eluprij  the  hlftory  of  which  I  did  not  u^derftarS. 


GHAP.  XIX.]  IN  FRANCE.  2SS 

at  the  time,  but  which,  fully  explained  its  general  put- 
port.     About  two  years  fince,  one  of  the  regiments 
of  artillery  revolted  in  battle.     Bonaparte  in  anger 
deprived  them  of  their  colors,  "and  fufpended  them, 
covered  with  crape,   amongft  the  captive  banners  of 
the  enemy,  in  the  Hall  of  Victory.     The  regiment, 
affected  by  the  difgrace,  were  determined  to  recover 
the  loft  erteem  of  their  general  and  their  country,  cr 
perifh  to  the  laft  man.     When  any  defperate  enter- 
prife  was  to  be  performed,  they  volunteered  their  fer- 
vices,  and  by  this  magnanimous  compunction  covered 
their  lhame  with  laurels,  and  became  the  boaft  and 
pride  of  the  republican  legions.     This  day  was  fixed 
upon  for  the  restoration  of  their  enfigns.     They  were 
marched  up  under  a  guard  of  honor,  and  prefented  to 
the  firft.  conful,  who  took,  the  black   drapery  from 
their  ftaves,  tore  it  in  pieces,  threw  it  on  the  ground, 
and  drove  his  charger  indignantly  over  it.     The  re- 
generated banners  were  then  reftored  to  the  regiment* 
with  a  fhort  and  fuitable  addrefs.     I  faintly   heard 
this  laconic  fpeech,  but  not  diftinctly  enough  to  offer 
any  criticifm  upon  the  eloquence,  of  the  fpeaker.  This 
exhibition  had  its  intended  effect*  and  difplayed  the 
genius  of  this  extraordinary  man,  who,  with  unerring 
acutenefs,  knows  fo  well  to  give  to  every  public  oc- 
currence that  dramatic;  hue  and  intereft  whkh  are  fo 
gratifying  to  the  minds  of  the  people  over  whom  he 
prefides.      After  this   ceremony,  the   feveral  regi- 
ments, proceeded  by  their  bands  of,  mufic,  marched 


236  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XIX, 

before  him  in  open  order,  and  dropped  their  colors  as 
they  pan"ed.  The  flying  artillery  and  cavalry  left  the 
parade  in  full  gallop,  and  made  a  terrific  noife  upon 
the  pavement.  Each  field  piece  was  drawn  by  fix 
horfes,  upon  a  carriage  with  large  wheels.  Here  the 
review  clofed. 

"  Farewell  the  neighing  fteec,  and  the  (brill  trump, 
"  The  fpirit  (tiiring  drum,  the  ear-piercing  fife, 
t{  The  ro};al  banner,  and  all  quality, 
«'  Pride,  pomp  and  circumffcanceof  glorious  war." 

Bonaparte  returned  to  the  palace,  where  he  held  a 
fplendid  levee,  at  which  the  new  Turkifh  embafiy 
was  introduced. 

In  the  evening  I  faw  Bonaparte  and  his  lady  at  the 
opera*  where  he  was  received  with  refped"t,  but  with- 
out any  clamorous  acclamation. 

Madame  Bonaparte  appears  to  be  older  than  the 
firft  conful.  She  is  an  elegant  woman,  and  is  faid  to 
conduct  hcrfelf  in  her  high  ftation  with  becoming  dig- 
nity and  prudence. 


CHAP.  XX»]  IN  FRANCE.  237 

CHAP.  XX. 

Abbe  Sieyes. — Confular  Pr&ceffion  to  the  Council  Cham- 
ber.-10t&  of  Aug.  1792. — Celerity  of  Mom.  Fauchis 
Police  Information. — The  two  Lovers. — Cabinet  of 
Mons.  le  Grand. — Selfprefcribing  Phyfician. — Bujl 
of  Robefpierre. — His  Lodgings. — Corn  Hall. — Mu- 
fcum  of  French  Monuments. — Revolutionary  Agent. 
— Lovers  of  Married  Women. 

A  NEAT  remark  was  made  upon  the  abbe  Sieyes, 
to  whofe  prolific  mind  the  revolution  and  all  its  chan- 
ges have  been  imputed.  This  extraordinary  man  has 
a  noble  houfe  in  the  Champs  Elisees,  and  is  faid  to 
have  the  bell  cook  in  Paris.  As  a  party  in  which  I 
was,  were  palling  his  hotel,  a  near  relation  of  the  abbe 
who  happened  to  be  with  us,  commented  upon  the 
great  Cervices  which  the  cloiftered  fabricator  of con- 
stitutions had  afforded  to  France,  and  adverted  to  his 
houfe  and  eftablifhment  as  an  unfuitable  reward  for 
his  labors.  A  gentleman,  who  was  intimate  with  the 
abbe,  but  was  no  great  admirer  of  his  morals,  faid,  «  I 
"  think,  my  dear  madam,  the  abbe  ought  to  be  very 
"well  fatisfied  with  his  deftiny ;  and  I  would  advife 
«'  him  to  live  as  long  as  he  can  in  the  Champs  Elifees  -, 
"  for  when  he  fhall  happen  to  experience  that  myftc- 
"rious  tranfition  to  which  we  are  all  hastening*  I 
"  think  the  chances  will  be  againft  his  finding  goad 
sl  accommodations  in  any  other  Elyfium." 


233  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.    XX* 

As  I  was  pafllng  one  morning  through  the  hall  of 
the  Thuilleries,  the  great  door  of  the  council  chamber 
was  opened,  and  the  fecond  and  third  confuls,  preced- 
ed and  followed  by  their  fuit  in  full  coftume,  marched 
with  great  pomp  to  bufinefs,  to  the  roll  of  a  drum. 
This  fingular  procefhon  from  one  part  of  the  houfeto 
the  other,  had  a  ridiculous  efrecl:,  and  naturally  re- 
minded me  of  the  fuftian  pageantry  which,  upon  the 
ftage,  attends  the  entries  and  exits  of  the  kings  and 
queens  of  the  drama. 

I  have  often  been  furprifed  to  find  that  the  injuries 
which  the  cornice  of  the  entrance,  and  the  capitals  of 
the  columns  in  the  hall  of  the  Thuilleries,  have  fuf- 
tained  from  the  ball  of  cannon,  during  the  horrible 
mafTacre  of  the  1  Oth  of  Auguft  1 7S2,  have  never  been 
repaired.  Every  veftige  of  that  day  of  difmay  and 
Slaughter  ought  for  ever  to  be  effaced  ;  inftead  of 
which,  fome  labour  has  been  exercifed  to  perpetuate 
its  remembrance.  Under  the  largeft  chafms  which 
have  been  made  by  the  fhot  is  painted,  in  ftrong  char- 
acters, that  gloomy  date. 

In  the  evening  of  that  day  of  devaluation,  from 
which  France  may  date  all  her  fufferings,  a  friend  of 
mine  went  into  the  court-yard  of  the  Thuilleries, 
where  the  review  is  now  held,  for  the  purpofe  of 
endeavoring  to  recognize,  amongft  the  dead  any  of 
his  acquaintance.  In  the  courfe  of  this  fhocking 
fearch,  he  declared  to  me,  that  he  counted  no  lefs 
tkan  eight  hundred  bodies  of  Swifs  and  French,  who 


CHAP.    XX.]  IN   FRANCE       '  253* 

had  perifhed  in  that  frightful  conteft  b^tw^en  infuri- 
ated people,  and  an  irrefolute  fovereign.  Iwill  not 
dilate  upon  this  painful  fubject,  but  difmifs  it  in  the- 
words  of  the  holy  and  refigned  defcendant  of  Nahor y 
«  Let  that  day  be  darknefs  >  let  not  God  regard  it 
from  above,  neither  let  the  light  fhine  upon  it  •,  let 
darknefs  and  the  fhadow  of  death,  ftain  it;  let  a 
clouddwell  upon  it ;  let  the  blacknefs  of  the  day 
te/rify  it." 

I  have  before  had  occalion  to  notice  the  prompti- 
tude and  activity  of  the  French  police,  under  the  pen- 
trating,eye  of  Moniieur  Fouche.  No  one  can  efcapfc 
the  \iglance  of  this  man  and  his  emiflaries.  An  em- 
igrant of  refpectability  affured  me,  that  when  he  and 
1  a  friend  of  his  waited  upon  him  for  their  paflports  to 
"  enable  them  to  quit  Paris  for  the  fouth  of  France,  he 
furprifed  them  by  relating  to  them  the  names  of  the 
towns,  the  ftreets,  and  of  the  people  with  whom  they 
had  lodged,  at  various  times  during  their  emigration 
in  England. 

Whilft  I  was  at  Paris,  an  affair  happened  very  near 
the  hotel  in  which  I  lodged,which  in  its  fequel  difplay- 
ed  that  high  fpirit  and  fenfibility  which  appear  to 
form  the  prefiding  features  in  the  French  character,  to 
which  may  be  attributed  all  the  exceffes  which  have 
ftained,  and  all  the  glory  which  has  embellifhed  it. 
A  lady  of  fortune,  and  her  only  daughter,  an  elegant 
and  lovely  young  woman,  r efiding  in  the  Fauxbourg 
Sti  Germain*  A  young  inanof  merit* and  accomplHK-* 


240  THE   STRANGER  rCHAP.  XX. 

merits,  but  unaided  by  the  powerful  pretentions  of 
fuitable  fortune,  cherifhed  a  paffion  for  the  young 
lady,  to  whom  he  had  frequent  accefs,  on  account  of 
his  being  diftantly  related  to  her.     His  affection  was 
requited  with  return  ;  and  before  the  parent  fufpect- 
ecled  the  attachment,  the  lovers  were  folemnly  en- 
gaged.    The  indications  of  pure  love  are  generally 
too  unguarded  to  efcape  the  keen,  obferving  eye  of 
a  cold  mercenary  mother.     She  charged  her  daugh- 
ter with  her  fondnefs,   and  forbade  her  diffracted  lo- 
ver the  houfe.     To  clofe  up  every  avenue   of  hope, 
{he  withdrew  with  her    wretched  child  into  Italy,   • 
where  they  remained  for  two  years  ;'at  the  expiration 
of  which,  the  mother  had  arranged  for  her  daughter 
a  match  more  congenial  to  her  own  pride  and  avarice, 
with  an  elderly  gentleman,  who  had  coniiderable  for- 
tune and  property  in  the    vicinity   of   Bourdeaux. 
Every  neceiTary  preparation  was  made  for  this  cruel 
union,  which  it  was  determined  fhould  be  celebrated 
in  Paris,  to  which  city  they  returned  for  that  purpofe. 
Two  days  before  the  marriage  was  intended  to  take 
place,  the  young   lover,  wrought  up   to    frenzy  by 
the  intelligence  of  the  approaching  nuptials,  contriv- 
ed, by  bribing  the  porter  whilft  the  mother  was  at 
the  opera  with  her  intended  fon-in-law,  to  reach  the 
room  of  the  beloved  being  from  whom  he  was  about 
to  be  feparated  for   ever1.     Emaciated  by  grief,  fhe 
prefented  the  mere  fpectre  of  what  fhe  was  when  he 
laft  left  her.     As  foon  as  he  entered  the  room;  he  fell 


C.-fL.?,         XX.]  IN  FRANCE.  211 

fefelefs  at  her  feet,  from  which  ftate  he  was  roufed 
by  the  loud  fits  of  her  frightful  maniac  laughter.  She 
flared  upon  him,  like  one  bewildered.  He  clafped 
her  with  one  hand,  and  with  the  other  drew  from  his 
pocket  a  vial  containing  double  diftilled  laurel  water  : 
he  preiTed  it  to  her  lips,  until  (he  had  fwallowed  half 
of  its  contents  ;  the  remainder  he  drank  himfelf. — 
The  drug  of  death  foon  began  to  operate. — Clafped 
in  each  other's  arms  pale  and  expiring,  they  reviewed 
their  hard  fate,  and,  in  faint  and  leffening  fentences, 
implored  of  the  God  of  mercy,  that  he  would  pardon 
them  for  what  they  had  done,  and  that  he  would  re- 
ceive their  fpirits  into  his  regions  of  eternal  repofe  ; 
that  he  would  be  pleafed,  in  his  divine  goodnefs,  to 
forgive  the  misjudging  feverity  which  had  driven  them 
to  defpair,  and  would  fupport  the  unconfcious  author 
of  it,  under  the  heavy  afflictions  which  their  difaftrous 
deaths  would  occafion.  They  had  fcarcely  finifhed 
their  prayer,  when  they  heard  footfteps  approaching 

the  room.    Madame  R ,  who  had  been  indifpofed 

at  the  opera,  returned  home  before  the  conclufion, 
with  the  intended  bridegroom.  The  young  man  a- 
woke,  as  it  were,  from  his  deadly  drowfinefs,  and,  ex- 
erting his  laft  ftrength,  pulled  from  his  bread  a  dag- 
ger, ftabbed  the  expiring  being,  upon  whom  he  doated 
to  the  heart ;  and,  falling  upon  her  body,  gave  him- 
felf feveral  mortal  wounds.  The  door  opened;  the 
frantic  mother  appeared.  All  the  houfe  was  in  an 
inftant  alarmed  ;  and  the  fatal  explanation  which  fur- 
W 


242  THE  STRANGER  [CHAF.  XX. 

nifhed  the  materials  of  this  fhort  and  fad  recital,  was 
taken  from  the  lips  of  the,  dying  lover,  who  had  fcarce- 
ly  finifhed  it  before  he  breathed  his  laft.  Two  days 
afterwards,  the  (lory  was  hawked  about  the  ftreets. 

From  this  painful  narrative,  in  which  the  French 
impetuoiity  is  ffcrongly  depicted,  I  mufi  turn  to  men- 
tion my  vifit  to  Mons.  le  G— ,  who  lives  in  the  Rue 
Florentine,  and  is  confietered  to  be  one  of  the  firft  ar- 
chitects in  France  ;  in  which  are  many  monuments 
of  his  tafte  and  elegance.  It  is  a  curious  circumftance 
that  all  artifts  exercife  their  talents  more  fuccefsfully 
for  their  patrons  than  for  themfelves.  Whether  it  is 
the  hope  of  a  more  fubftantial  reward  than  that  of 
mere  felf- complacency,  which  ufually  excites  the  mind 
to  its  happieft  exertions,  I  will  net  pretend  to  deter- 
mine •,  but  the  point  feems  to  be  in  fome  degree  fettled 
by  the  conduct  of  a  celebrated  Bath  phyfician  of  whom 
it  is  related,  that  happening  once  to  fuller  under  a 
malady  from  which  as  his  fkillhad  frequently  relieved 
others,  he  determined  to  prefcribe  for  himfelf.  The 
recipe  at  firft  had  not  the  defired  effect.  The  doctor 
was  mrprifed.  At  laft  he  recollected  that  he  had  not 
feed  himfelf.  Upon  making  this  difcovery,  he  drew 
the  firings  of  his  purfe,  and  with  his  left  hand  placed 
a  guinea  in  his  right,  and  then  prefcribed.  The  ftory 
concludes  by  informing  its  readers,  that  the  pre- 
fcription  fucceeded,  and  the  doctor  recovered. — In 
adorning  the  front  of  his  own  hotel,  Mons.  le  G  t 
in  my  very  humble   opinion,  has' not  exhibited  hi* 


CHAP.  XX.  j  IN    FRANCE.  245 

accuftomed  powers.  In  a  fmall  confined  court-yard 
he  has  attempted  to  give  to  a  private  dwelling  the  ap- 
pearance of  one  of  thofe  vaft  temples  of  which  he.  be- 
came enamored  when  at  Athens.  The  roof  is  fup- 
ported  by  two  mafly  fluted  pilaftres,  which  in  fize  are 
calculated  to  bear  the  burden  of  fome  prodigious  dome. 
The  mufcular  powers  of  Hercules  feem  to  be  here  ex- 
ercifed   in   railing  a   grafshopper  from  the  ground. 

The  genius  of  Mons.  le  G -,  unlike  the  worlds 

charity,  does  not  begin  at  home,  but  feems  more  dif- 
pofed  to  difplay  its  moft  fuccefsful  energies  abroad. 
His  roof,  however,  contains  fuch  a  monument  of  his 
goodnefs  and  generofity,  that  I  muft  not  pafs  it  over. 
This  diftinguiihed  architect  is  one  of  thofe  unfortu- 
nate beings  who  have  been  decreed  to  tafte  the  bit- 
teraefs,  very  foon  after  the  fweets  of  matrimony. 
Upon  difcovering  the  infidelity  of  his  lady  who  is  very 
pretty  and  prepoflefling,  the  diilracted  hufband  im- 
mediately fought  a  divorce  from  the  laws  of  his  coun- 
try. This  affair  happened  a  very  fhort  time  before 
the  revolution  afforded  unufual  acceleration  and  fa- 
cilities to  the  wifhes  of  parties,  who,  under  fimilar  cir- 
cumftances,  wifhed  to  get  rid  of  each  other  as  foon  as 
poflible.  The  then,  "law's  delay"  afforded  fome 
caufe  of  vexation  to  Mons.  le  G ,  who  was  deep- 
ly injured.  Before  his  fuit  had.paffed  through  its  laft 
forms,  the.  father  of  his  wife,  who  at  the  time  of  their 
marriage  lived  in.  grea,t  affluence,  became  a  bankrupt. 
In  the  vortex  of  his  failure,  all  the  means  of  fupport* 


^M'4?  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XX. 

ing  his  family  were  fwallowed  up.     The  generous  le 

G ,  difdaining  to  expofe  to  want   and   ignominy 

the  woman  who  had  once  been  dear  to  him,  would 
proceed  no  farther.  She  is  ftill  his  wife  :  fhe  bears 
his  nams,  is  maintained  by  him,  and  in  a  feparate  fuite 
of  apartments  lives  inder  the  fame  roof  with  him. 

But  Mons.  and  Madame  le  G have  had  no  inter- 

courfe  whatever  with  each  other  for  eleven  years.  If 
in  the  gallery  or  in  the  Hll  they  meet  by  accident, 
they  pafs  without  the  interchange  of  a  word.  This 
painful  and  difficult  arrangement  has  now  lofl  a  con- 
fiderable  portion  of  its  mifery,  by  having  become  fa- 
miliar to  the  unfortunate  couple. 

In  the   valuable  and  curious  cabinet  of  Mons.  le 

G ,  I  found  out,  behind  feveral  other  cafts,  a  buft 

of  Robefpierre,  which  was  taken  of  him,  a  fhort  pe- 
riod before  he  felL  A  tyrant  whofe  offences  look 
white,  contrafted  with  the  deep  delinquency  of  the 
oppreffor  of  France,  is  faid  to  be  indebted  more  to  his 
character,  than  to  nature,  for  the  reprefentation  of  that 
deformity  of  perfon  which  appears  in  Shakfpeare's 
portrait  of  him,  when  he  puts  this  foliloquy  in  hk 
lips : — 

"  I  that  am  curtailed  of  this  fair  proportion, 

"  Cheated  of  feature,  by  diflembling  Nature, 

"  Deform'd,  unfiniftVd,  fent  before  my  time, 

"  Into  the  breathing  world,  fcarcehalf  made  up  $ 

"  And  that  fo  lamely  and  unfafhionably, 

"  That  dogs  bark  at  me,  asl  halt  by  them/^ 


C#AF.  XX]  W  FBAKC?v  245, 

Fliftory,  enraged  at  the  review  of  the  infatiable  crime* 
of  Robefpierre,  has  already  beftowed  upon  him  a 
fanciful  phyfio&nomy,  which  fhe  has  compofed  of  fea~ 
tures  which  rather  correfpond  with  the  ferocity  cf  his 
foul,  than  with  his  real  countenance.  From  the  ap- 
pearance of  fhis  butt,  which  is-  ?n  authentic  refem- 
blance  of  him,  his  face  muft  have  been  rather  hand- 
fome.  His  features  were  fmall,  and  his  countenance 
muft  have  ftrongly  expreifed  animation,  penetration 
and  fubtlety.  This  buft  is  a  real  curiofity.  It  is  very- 
likely  that  not  another  is  now  to  be   found.     Mods. 

}e  G is  permitted  to  preferve  it,  without  reproach. 

on  account  of  his  art.  lean  Mely  fay  he  does  not 
retain  it  from  any  emotions  of  veneration  for  the  orig- 
inal. It  is  worthy  of  being  placed  between  the  heads 
of  Caligula  and  Nero.     Very  near  the   refidence  of 

Mons.  le  G is  the  houfe  in  which  Robefpierre 

lodged.  It  is  at  the  end  of  the  Rue  Florentine,  in 
the  Rue  St.  Honore^  at  a  wax  chandler's.  This  man 
is  too  much  celebrated,  not  to  render  every  thing 
which  relates  to  him  curious^  The  front  windows  of 
his  former  lodgings  look  towards  the  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde. On  the  right  of  which  his  prime  minifies 
the  permanent  guillotine,  was  quartered.  Robef- 
pierre, who,  like  the  revolting  angel,  before  the 
world's  formation,  appears  to  have  preferred  the  fcep- 
tre  of  hell  arid  chaos,  to  the  allegiance  of  order  and 
focial    happinefs,  will  defcend  to  pofierity  with  no* 

common  attributes  of  diilin&iori  and  preeminence 

W  2 


246  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XX. 

His  mind  was  fully  fuited  to  its  labors,  which,  in  thek 
wide  fphere  of  mifchief ,  required  more  genius  to  di- 
rect them  than  was  bellowed  upon  the  worft  of  the 
tyrants  of  Rome,  and  a  fpirit  of  evil  which,  with  its 
"broad  circumference"  of  guilt,  was  calculated  to 
darken  the  difk  of  their  lefs  expanded  enormity. 

From  Robefpierre's  lodgings,  curiofity  led  me  to 
vifit  the  building  in  which  the  jacobin  dub  held  their 
Pandemonium.  It  is  a  noble  edifice,  and  once  be- 
longed to  the  order* of  jacobins.  Near  this  church 
ftands  the  beautiful  fabric  of  the  Corn  Hall  of  Paris, 
defigned  by  monfieur  Le  Grand.  The  dome  of  the 
bank  of  England  is  in  the  fame  ftyle,  but  inferior,  in 
point  of  lightnefs  and  elegance.  That  of  the  Corn 
Hall  refembles  a  vaft  concavity  of  glafs.  In  this 
noble  building  the  millers  depofit  their  corn  for  fale. 
Its  deep  and  lofty  arches  and  area,  were  n^?rly  filled 
with  facks,  containing  that  grain  which  is  precious  to 
all  nations,  but  to  none  more  than  the  French  -7  to  a 
Frenchman,  bread  is  moft  emphatically  the  ftaffof 
life.  He  confumes  more  of  it  at  one  meal  than  an 
Englifhman  does  at  four.  In  France,  the  little  com- 
parative quantity  of  bread  which  the  Englifh  confume,. 
is  confidered  to  form  a  part  of  their  national  charac- 
ter. B afore  1  left  Paris,  I  was  requefted  to  vifit  a 
very  curious  and  interefting  exhibition,  the  mufeum 
of  French  monuments  :  for  the  reception  of  which*, 
the  ancient  convent  of  the  monks  of  the  order  of  les. 
Petis  Auguftines,  is  appropriated*    This  national  in* 


CHAP.  XX.]  IN    FRANCE.  24T 

ftitution  is  intended  to  exhibit  the  progrefs  of  monu- 
mental tafte  in  France,  for  feveral  centuries  paft,  the 
fpecimens  of  which  have  chiefly  been  collected  from 
St.  Denis,  which  formerly  was  the  burial  place  of  the 
monarchs  of  France,  and  from  other  churches. 

It  will  be  remembered  by  the  reader,  that  in  the 
year  1793,  Henriot,  a  vulgar  and  furious  republican,, 
propofed  fetting  off  for  the  former  church,  at  the 
head  of  the  fans  culottes,  to  deflroy  all  thefe  curious 
and  valuable  relics,  "  to  ftrike,"  as  he  faid,  "  the  ty- 
«<  rants  in  their  tombs,"  but  was  prevented  by  fome 
other  republicans  of  influence,  who  had  not  parted 
with  their  veneration  for  the  works  of  tafte,  from  this 
impious  and  impotent  outrage. 

In  the  firft  hall,  which  is  very  large,  and  imprefles. 
a  fimilar  awe  to  that  which  is  generally  felt  upon  en- 
tering a  cathedral,  are  the  tombs  of  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury. Amongft  them  I  chiefly  diftinguifhed  that  of 
Henry  II.  upon  which  are  three  beautiful  mourning 
figures,  fupporting  a  cup,  containing  his  heart. 

In  the  fecond  hall,  are  the  monuments  of  the  thir- 
teenth century,  moft  of  them  are  very  fine  ?  that  of 
Lewis  XIL  and  his  queen,  is  well  worthy  of  notice.  I 
did  not  find  much  to  gratify  me  in  the  hall  of  the  four- 
teenth century.  In  that  of  the  fifteenth  are  feveral 
noble  tombs,  and  beautiful  windows  of  ftained  glafs* 
In  the  hall  of  the  Sixteenth  century  is  a  fine  ftatue  of 
Henry  IV.  by  Franchville,  which  is  considered  to  be 
an  admirable  likenefs  of  that  wonderful  man.    In  the. 


24&  THE  S?*AN££K  CHAP.  XX.} 

hall  of  the  feventeenth  century,  is  a.  noble  figure,  rep- 
referring,  religion,  by  Girardon. 

in  the  cloifters  are  feveral  curious  ftatues,  ftained 
giafs  windows,  and  teiTeiated  pavement*  There  is 
here  alfo  a  good  bull  of  Alexis  Peron,  with  this  lingu- 
lar epitaph, 

Ci  git  q«ji  ne  fut  rien, 
Pus  nwae  acadernicier. 

In  the  fquare  garden  within  the  cloifiers,  are  fev- 
eral ancient  urns,  and  tombs.  Amongfl  them  is  the 
vafe  which  contains  the  afhes,  if  anyremain,  of  Abel- 
ard  and  Heloife,  which  has  been  removed  from  the 
Paraclete  to  the  Mufeum.  It  is  covered  with  the 
graceful  fhade  of  an  Acacia  tree,  which  feems  to 
wave  proudly  over  its  celebrated  depofit.  Upon  ap- 
proaching this  treafurable  antique,  all  thofe  feelings 
rufhed  in  upon  me,  which  the  beautiful,  and  affecting 
narrative  of  thofe  difaflrous  lovers,  by  Pope,  has  of- 
ten excited  in  me.  'The  melancholy  Heloife  feemed 
to  breathe  from  her  tomb  here, 

"If  ever  chance  two  wandering  lovers  bring?, 
"  O'er  the  pale  raarbJe  (hill  they  join  their  heads,. 
H  And  dunk  the  falling  tear  each  other  theds  : 
"  Then  fsdiy  fay,  with  mutual  pity  rnov'd, 
"  Oh  i  may  we  never  love,  as  thefe  have  lov'd." 

National  guards  are  {rationed  in  every  apartment  of 
the  Mufeum,  and  prefent  rather  an  unaccording  ap- 
pearance, amidil  the  peaceful  folemnity  of  the  fur* 


OHAP.  XX.]  IN  FRAHCE.  249 

rounding   objects.     This  exhibition  is  not  yet  com-'*'' 
pleted,  but,  in  itsprefent  condition,  is  very  interefting. 
Some  hints  not  altogether  ufelefs,  may  be  collected 
from  it.     In  England  our  churches  are  charnel  houfes. 
The  pews  of  the  congregation  are  raifed  upon  found- 
ations of  putrefa&ion.     For  fix  days  and  nights  the 
temple  of  devotion  is  filled  with  the  peftilent  vapors 
of  the  dead,  and  on  the  feventh  they  are  abforbed  by 
the  living.     Surely  it  is  high  time   to  fubdue  preju- 
dices, which  endanger  health  without  promoting  piety 
The  Scetch  never  bury  in  their  churches,  and  their 
burial  places  are  upon  the  confines  of  their  towns. 
The  eye  of  adoration  is  filled  with  a  penfive  pleafure, 
in  obfervirfg  itfelf  furrounded  with  the  endeavors  of 
tafte  and  ingenuity,  to  lift  the  remembrance  of  the 
great  and  good  beyond  the  grave,  in  that  very  fpot 
where  the  frailty  of  our  nature  is  fo  often  inculcated. 
Such  a    lifplay,  in  fuch  a  place,  is  rational,  fuitable 
and  admonitory.     The  filent  tomb  becomes  auxiliary 
to  the  eloquence  of  the  pulpit.     But  the  cuftom  which 
converts  the  place  of  worfhp  into  a  catacomb,  can  af- 
ford but  a  miftaken  confolation  to  poilhumous  pride, 
and  muft,  in  fome  degree,  contaminate  the  atmofphere 
which  is  contained  within  its  walls.     One  evening  a* 
I  was  paffing  through  the  Boulevard  Italien,  in  com- 
pany with  a  gentleman  from  Toulon,  we  met  a  tall, 
"dark,  hollpw  eyed,  ferocious  looking  man,  of  whom 
he  related  the  following  ftory. 

Immediately  after  the  evacuation  of  Toulon  by  th^ 


250-  THE  STRANGER  [CHA*.  XX. 

Bhglifh,  all  the  principal  Toulonefe  citizens  were  or- 
dered to  repair  to  the  market  place  ;  where  thev  were 
furrounded  by  a  great  military  force.. 

This  man  who,  for  his  offences,  had  been  commit- 
ted to  prifon,  was  liberated  by  the  French  agents,  in 
confequence  of  his  undertaking  to  leledt  thofe  of  the 
inhabitants  who  had  in  any  manner  favored  the  ca- 
pitulation of  the  town,  or  who  had  fhown  any  hofpi- 
tality  to  the  Englifh,  whiifl  they  were  in  pofTeffion  of 
it.  The  mifcreant  pafled  before  the  citizens,  who 
were  drawn  out  in  lines,  amounting  to  near  three 
thcufand-  Amongft  whom  he  pointed  out  about  one 
theufand  four  hundred  perfons  to  the  fury  of  the  gov- 
ernment;  without  any  other  evidence,  or  further  ex- 
amination they  were  all  immediately  adjudged  to  be 
£bot.  For  this  purpofe  a  fuitable  number  of  foldiers 
were  drawn,  out.  The  unhappy  victims  were  march* 
ed  up  to  their  deftruclipn,  upon  the  quay,  in  fets  of 
three  hundred,  and  butchered  !  ! ! 

The  carnage  was  dreadful.  In  the  laft  of  thefe 
unfortunate  groups,  were  two  gentlemen  of  great  ref- 
pectability,  who  received  no  wound  from  the  fire, 
but,  to  preferve  themfelves,  dropped  with  the  reft,  and 
exhibited  all  the  appearances  of  having  participated 
in  the  general  fate. 

This  execution  took  place  in  the  evening  :  imme- 
diately after  its  clofe,  the  Jbldiers,  fatigued,  and  lick 
with  cold-blooded  Slaughter,  marched  back  to  their 
quarters,  without  examining  whether  every  perfon 


CHAP.  XX.]  IN   FRANCE.  2£1 

upon  whom  they  had  fired,  had  fallen  a  victim  to  tfee 
murderous  bullet.  Soon  after  the  foldiers  had  retired, 
the  women  of  Toulon,  allured  by  plunder,  proceeded 
to  the  fatal  fpot.  Mounted  upon  the  bodies  of  the 
fallen,  they  flripped  the  dead,  and  dying.  '  The  night 
was  ftormy,  The  moon,  emerging  from  dark  clouds, 
occasionally,  fhed  its  pale  luflre  upon  this  horrible 
fcene.  When  the  plunderers  had  abandoned  their 
prey,  during  an  interval  of  deep  darknefs,  in  the  dead 
of  the  night,  when  all  was  filent,  unconfcious  of  each 
other's  intentions,  the  two  citizens  who  had  efcaped 
the  general  carnage,  difencumbered  themfelves  from 
the  dead,  under  whom  they  were  buried  ;  chilled  and 
naked,  in  an  agony  of  mind  not  to  be  defcribed,  they 
at  the  fame  moment,  attempted  to  efcape.  In  their 
agitation,  they  rufhed  againft  each  other.  Expref- 
fions  of  terror  and  furprife,  dropped  from  each  of 
them.  "  ^xi. !  God  !  it  is  my  father  !"  faid  one, 
"my  foil,  my  fon,  my  fon,"  exclaimed  the  other, 
clafping  him  in  his  arms.  They  were  father  and  fon, 
who  had  thus  miraculoufly  efcaped,;  and  met  in  this 
extraordinary  manner. 

The  perfon  from  whom  I  received  this  account, 
informed  me,  that  he  knew  thefe  gentlemen  very 
well,  and  that  they  had  been  refettled  in  Toulon 
about  two  years. 

The  Wretch  Who  had  thus  directed  the  rathlefs 
vengeance  of  a  revolutionary  banditti,  'againft  the 
breafts  of  his  fellow  citizens,  was*  at-this' time,  in 


252  TBE    STRANGER  [CHAP.    XX 

Paris,  fbliciting,  from  the  prefent  government,  from 
a  total  mifconeeption  of  its  nature,  thofe  remunera- 
tions which  had  been  .promifed,  but  never  realized 
his  barbarous  employers. 

I  need  fcarcely  add,  that  although  he  had  been  in 
the  capital  several  months,  he  had  not  been  able  to 
gain  accefs  to  the  miryfter's  fecretary. 

The  time  of  terror  was  over — the  murderer's  occu- 
pation was  gone— the  guillotine,  with  unfatiated  hun- 
ger, after  having  gorged  the  food  which  was  thrown 
to  it,  had  devoured  its  feeder. 

I  mult  leave  it  to  the  ingenuity  of  my  reader,  to 
connect  the  obfervation  with  which  I  mall  clofe  this 
chapter,  with  the  preceding  ftory,  for  I  am  only  ena- 
bled to  do,  by  obferving,  that  an  impreflive  inftance 
of  the  fubject  of  it,  occurred  immediately  after  my 
mind  had  been  harrowed  up,  by  the  narrative  which 
I  have  juft  related. 

The  married  women  of  France  feel  no  compunc- 
tions vifitings  of  confcience,  in  cherifhing^  about 
them  a  circle  of  lovers,  amongft  whom  their  hufbands 
are  merely  more  favored  than  the  reft.  I  hope  I  mall 
not  be  confidered  as  an  apologift,  for  an  indulgence 
which,  in  France,  excites  no  jealoufy  in  one,  and  no 
furprife  amongft  the  many,  when  I  declare,  that  I  con- 
fidently believe,  in  moft  inftances,  it  commences,  and 
guilflefsly  terminates  in  the  love  of  admiration.  I 
know,  and  vifited  in  Paris,  a  moft  lovely  and  accom- 
plished young  woman,  who  had  been  married  about 


CHAP.  XX.]  IN   FRANCE.  253 

two  years.  She  admitted  the  vifits  of  men,  whom 
fhe  knew  were  paifionately  fond  of  her.  Sometimes 
{he  received  them  in  the  prefence,  and  fometimes  in 
the  abfence  of  her  hufband,  as  accident,  not  arrange- 
ment, directed.  They  approached  her  with  all  the 
agitation  and  tendernefs  of  the  moft  ardent  lovers. 
Amongft  the  number,  was  a  certain  celebrated  orator. 
This  man  was  her  abject  flave.  A  glance  from  her 
expreffive  eye  raifed  him  to  the  fummit  of  blifs,  or 
rendered  his  nights  fleeplefs.  The  complacent  huf- 
band of  Madame  G regarded  thefe  men  as  his 

moft  beloved  friends,  becaufe  they  enlarged  the  hap- 
pihefs  of  his  wife  ;  and  ftrange  as  it  may  appear,  I  be- 
lieve that  he  had  as  little  caufe  to  complain  as  Othello, 
and  therefore  never  permitted  his  repofe  to  be  dis- 
turbed by  thofe  fufpicjons  which  preyed  upon  the  vi- 
tals of  die  haplefs  Moor.  The  French  Benedict  might 
truly  exclaim, 

"    '  "' ■■  *Tis  not  to  make  me  jealous, 

»■  To  fay  my  wife  is  fairs  feeds  well,  loves  company, 
*«  Is  free  of  fpeech,  fing.s,  play,  and  dances    well  ; 
*  Where  virtue  is,  thefe  are  more  virtuous  ; 
"  Nor  from  my  own  weak  mints  will  I  draw 
"  The  fmallefl-  frar,  or  doubt  of  her  revolt," 


*&4  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XXI. 

CHAP.  XXI. 

Ticltirefque  and  Mechanical  Theatre. — Filtrating  and 

purifying  Vafes. — Englifb  Jacobins. — A  Farewell. 

Mejfagerie. — Mai    Mai/on. — Forejl    of  Evreux. 

Lower    Normandy Caen. — Hon.   T.  Erjkine. — A 

Ball, — The  Keeper  of  the  Sachrtfty  of  Notre  Dame. 

The  two  blind   Beggars. — Ennui St.   Lo. — Cher- 
bourg.— England. 

I  VISITED,  one  evening,  a  very  beautiful  exhibi- 
tion, which  I  think  worthy  of  being  noticed  j  it  was 
the  picturefque  and  mechanical  theatre.     The  com- 
pany prefent  were  felecl  and  genteel.     The  room  and 
ftage  were  upon  a  fmali  fcale  ;  the  former  was  very 
elegantly  fitted  up.     The  fpectacle  confided  of  fcene- 
ry  and  appropriate  little  moving  figures.     The  firft 
fcenewasa   view  of  a  wood  in  early  morning,  every 
object  looked  blue,  frefh  and  dewy.     U.  ne  gradations* 
of  light,   until  the  approach   of  meridian  day,   were 
admirably  reprefented.     Serpents  were  feen  crawling 
in  the   grafs.     A  little   fportsman   entered  with  his 
fowling-piece,  and  imitated  all  the  movements  natur- 
al to  his  purfuit  ;  a  tiny  wild  duck  role  from  a  lake, 
and  flew  before  him.     He  pointed  his  gun,  changed 
his  fituation,  pointed  it  again,  and  fired.     The  bird 
dropped  •,  he  threw  it  over  his  moulders,  fattened  to 
his  gun,  and  re-tired.     Waggons,  drawn  by  horfes  a- 
bout  four  inches  high,  paused  along  •,  groups  of  peas- 
antry followed,  exquifitely  imitating  all  the  indications 


CHAP.  XXI.]  IN  FRANCE.  255 

of  life.  Amongft  feveral  other  fcenes  was  a  beautiful 
view  of  tHe  bay  of  Naples,  and  the  great  bridge  :  over 
which  little  horfes,  with  their  riders,  paffed  in  the  va- 
rious paces  of  walking,  trotting  and  galloping.  All 
the  minutice  of  nature  were  attended  to.  The  ear  was 
beguiled  with  the  patting  of  the  horfes*  hoofs  upon  the 
pavement  ;  and  fome  of  the  little  animals  reared,  and 
ran  before  the  others.  There  were  alfo  fome  charm- 
ing little  fea-pieces,  in  which  the  veflels  failed  with 
their  heads  towards  the  fpectators,  and  manoeuvred 
in  a  furprifing  manner.  The  whole  concluded  with 
a  ftorm  and  fhipwreck.  Sailors  were  ieen  floating  hi 
the  water,  then  finking  in  the  furge.  One  of  them 
rofe  again,  and  reached  a  reck.  Bc-ats  pat  off  to  his 
relief,  and  perifhed  in  the  attempt.  The  little  figure 
was  feen  difplaying  the  greateft  agonies.  The  ftorm 
fufoided  ;  tiny  perfbns  appeared  upon  the  top  of  a 
projecting  cliff,  near  a  watch  tower,  and  lowered  a 
rope  to  the  little  lufFerer  below,  which  he  caught,  and 
after  afcencMng  to  fome  height  by  it,  overwhelmed 
with  fatigue,  loft  his  held.  After  recovering  from 
the  fall,  he  renewed  his  efforts,  and  .at  length  reached 
the  top  in  fafety,  a-midft  the  acclamations  of  the  fpec- 
tators,  who  moved  by  this  enchanting  little  iliufion, 
took  much  inter  eft  in  the  apparent  diftrefs  of  the 
fcene. 

Upon  quitting  the  theatre,  we  found  a  real  ftorm 
without.  The  lightning  flamed  upon  us  from  every 
quarter  and  was  fucceeded  by  kmd  peals  of  thunder. 


256  THE  STRANGER  .[CHAP-XXI. 

Whilil  we  were  contemplating  the  tempeft  from  the 

balcony  of  Madame  S ,  a  ball  of  fire  fell   very 

near  us,  and  filled  the  room  with  a  fulphureous 
flench.     A  fervant  foon  afterwards   entered,  almpfl 

fereathlefs  to  inform  his  miftrefs,  Madame    R , 

who  was  of  the  party,  that  the  fire-ball  had  pentrated 
her  houfe,  which  was  clofe  adjoining,  without  haying 
effected  any  injury.  Madame  R laughed  hear- 
tily, and  obferved,  «  Well,  it  is  very  droll  that  the 
<f  lightning  {hould  make  foiree  with  my  houfe  when 
"  .1  am  not  at  home."  This  little  fprightly  remark 
difperfed  the  gloom  which  had  overfhadowed  raoft  of 
the  ladies  prefent.  $11  the  large  houfes  in  Paris  are 
well  protected  againft  the  perilous  effect  of  electric 
fluid,  by  conductors,  which,  are  very  ju^icioufly  dif- 
pofed. 

An  invention  has  lately  made  its  appearance  in  Pa- 
ris, which  is  as  full  of  utility  as  it  is  of  genius.  A  houfe 
has  lately  been  opened  for  the  fale  of  filtrating  and 
purifying  vafes,  to  which  the  ingenious  conftructor  has 
given  the  moft  elegant  Etrufcan  fhapes.  They  are  ca- 
pable of  refining  the  moil  fetid  and  corrupt  water,  by 
a  procefs  which,  in  its  operation,  lafts  about  four  mi- 
nutes. *  The  principle  is  the  fame  as  in  nature.  The 
foul  water  is  thrown  into  the  vafe,  where  it  pafies 
through  various  ftrata  of  earth,  which  are  comprefTed 
into  a  feries  of  little  apartments,  which  retain  its  of- 
fenfive  particles,  and  from  which  it  MTues  as  clear  and 
as  fweet  as  rock  water.  This  difcovery  will  prove  of  in- 


C*HAP.  XXI.]  IN   FRANCE.  257 

finite  confequence  to  families  who  reiide  in  the  mara- 
time  parts  of  Holland,  and  to  many  inland  towns, 
in  France,  where  the  water  is  frequently  very  bad. 
I  moft  cordially  hope  that  the  inventor  will  meet 
with  the  remuneration  which  is  due  to  his  humane 
philofophy. 

After  having  experienced  a  moll  cordial  difplay  of 
kindneiTes  and  hofpitalities,  I  prepared  to  retnrn  to 
my  own  country,, "  that  precious  flone  j^f  in  the  Sil- 
ver fea."  I  had  to  part  withthofe  who,  in  the  Short 
fpace  of  one  fleeting  month,  had  by  their  endearing 
and  flattering  attentions,  ri vetted  themfelves  to  my 
affections,  with  the  force  of  a  long,  and  frequent,  and 
cherifhed  intercourfe,.  who,  in  a  country  where  I  ex- 
pected to  feel  the  comfortlefs  fenfationsof  a  foreigner, 
made,  me  forget  that  I  was  even  ajlranger.  Amongft 
thofe  who  excited  a  considerable  'Share  of  my  regret 
upon  parting,  were  the  elegant  and  charming   family 

of  the  S s.     As  I  was  preparing  to  take  my  leave, 

Madame  S  — — faid,;"  you  muft  not  forget  us  be* 
"  caufe  a  few  waves  divide  our  countries." 

"  If  he  will  lend  me  his  pocket-book,"  faid  one  of 
her  lovely  daughters,  "  Iwill  try  and  fee  if  my  pen*. 
"  cil  will  not  preferve  us  in  his  memory,  at  lead.  for. 
"  a  little  time." 

I  prefented  it  to  her,  and  in  a  few  minutes- (lie  made 
an  elegant  little  Sketch,  which   She  called,  «  The  af- 
fectionate Mother."       Amiable    young  artift  !  may 
Time,  propitious  to  the   happinefs  of  fome  generous, 
X  2 


253  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.    XXL 

being,  who  is  worthy  of  fiich  an  affociate,  hail  thee 
with  the  blifsful  appellation  !  and  may  the  graceful 
difcharge  of  thofe  refined  and  affecting  duties  which 
flow  from  connubial  love,  entitle  thee,  too  much  ef- 
teemed  to  be  envied,  to  the  name  of  the  modern  Cor- 
nelia ! 

Several  Englifhmen,  whilft  I  was  at  Paris;  met 
with  very  vexatious  delays  in  procuring  their  paffports 
to  enable  them  to  leave  it,  from  a  miftaken  courfe  of 
application.  Inftead  of  applying  to  M.  Fauche,  or 
any  other  municipal  officer,  I  would  recommend 
them  to  procure  their  paffport  from  their  own  ambaf- 
fador,  and  fend  it  to  the  office  of  Mons.  Talleyrand 
for  his  endorfement  ;  by  which  means    they  will  be 

enabled  to  quit  the  republic  in  two  or  three  days  after 

... 

their  application. 

Having  previoufly  determined  to  return  by  the  way 
of  Lower  Normandy,  upon  the  beauty  and  luxuriance 
of  which  I  hadheard  much  eulogy,  about  half  paft 
five  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  21ft  of  Prairial,  I 
left  my  hotel,  and  proceeded  to  the  MeiTagerie,  from 
which  the  diligences,  all. of  which  are  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  nation,  fet.  out.  The  morning  was  very 
beautiful.  I  was  much  entertained  before  I  mounted 
that  cumbrous  vehicle,  which  was  to  roll  me  a  little 
nearer  to  my  own  ccaft,  by  viewing  the  numerous 
groups  of  travellers  and  their  friends,  who  furrounded 
the  different  carriage"  as  the  horfes  were  tackling  to  * 
them.     In  different    jrections  of  my  eye^  I  faw  about. 


CHAP.    XXI.}  IN    FRANCE.  233 

thirty  men  kiffing  each  other.    The  women  in  France 
never  think  their  prerogatives  infringed  by  this  antU 

anglo  mode  of  falutation.  Some  med  tears  at  part- 
ing; but  the  cheek  down  which  they  trickled  never, 
loft  its  color  or  vivacity.  All  were  animated ;  every 
eye  looked  bright  -,  there  was  a  gaiety  in  their  very 
grief. — "  Bon  voyage,  bon  voyage  —Dieu  vous  be- 
nifle,  Dieu  vous  beniiTe,"  reiterated  on  all  fides  from 
fprightly  faces  flretched  out  cf  the  window  frames 
of  the  ma%  machine,  as  it  rattled  through  the  gates. 
of  the  yard,  to  the  incefTant  crackings  of  the  poftilion's 
longlafh.  I  foon  afterwards  found  myfelf  feated  in 
the  diligence  for  Cherbourg,  in  company  with  ty*o 
ladies,  and  three  gentlemen,  who  were  all  polite  and 
pleating.  In  the  cabriole,  forward,  was  a  French 
captain  in  the  army,  who  had  been  in  Tippoo's  fervice 
at  the  time  of  the  furrender  of  Seringapatam.  He 
looked  abominably  dirty  in  his~travelling  habiliments  ^ 
but  that,  in  France,  is  now  no  juft  indication  of  infe- 
riority or  vulgarity. 

We  parTed  by  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  upon  the 
ftatues  and  buildings  of  which,  and  the  gardens  of 
the  Thuilleries,  the  frefh  and  early  fun  fhone  mo|b] 
beautifully.  My  merry,  but  feeling  fellow  travellers* , 
waving  their  hands,  addrdTed. a.  flxort  apoftrophe.  to 
thefe  fuburbs,  and  exclaimed,  "  acliea  ma  tres  jolie; 
«  vjlle — ah  !  tres  jolie  ville  adieu." 

For. near  three  miles  after  leaving  the  barrier,   we- 
palled  through  plantationsL.  of  xofes,  which  fupply.  the 


260  THE  STRANTGER.  [CHAF.  XXL 

markets  of  Paris,  with  that  beautiful  flower,  which, 
transferred  thence,  adorn  the  toilets,  the  vafes,  and 
the  bofoms  of  the  fair  Priiians,  and  form  the  favorite 
bouquets  of  the  petite  maitres  ^  on  each  fide  of  the 
j*>ad  were  cherry  trees,  in  full  bearing,  which  pre- 

?  fented  a  very  charming  appearance.  We  foon  reach- 
ed the  water  works  of  Marli,  which  fupply  the  jets 
d'eau  of  Verfailles.      They  are  upon  a  vaft  fcale,  and 

^appear  to  be  very  curious.  A  little  further  on  we 
panned  Mai  Maifon,  the  country  and  chief  residence 
of  the  firil  conful  and  his  family.  It  is  an  ancien 
houfe,  embofom'ed  in  beautiful  woods  and  gardens. 
At  the  entrance  are  large  military  lodges,  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  a  fquadron  of  the  confular  cavalry, 
who  mount  guard  when  their  general  is  here. 

At  St.  Germain's  we  breakfafled,  upon  pork  cut- 
lets, excellent  bread,  wine,  and  cherries,  for  twenty 
Ibis,  or  ten  pence  Engliih.  At  Mante  we  had  an  ex- 
cellent dinner,  of  feveral  dimes,  for  thirty  fols,  or 
one  milling  and  three  penc*  Englifh.  Soon  after  we 
had  paused  Mante,  we  left  the  higher  Norman  road, 
and  entered  a  country  extremely  picturefque  and  rich. 
We  were  conducted  through  the  forefl  of  Evreux,  by 
an  efcort  of  chaffeurs.  This  vad  tract  of  land  is  in- 
felled  by  an.  immenfe  banditti,  who  live  in  large  ex- 
cavations in  the  earth,  fimiiar  to  the  fubterranean  a- 
partments  of  the  celebrated  robbers,  in  whofe  fervice. 
Gil  Bias  was  rather  reluctantly  enrolled,  and  generally 
aiTail  the  traveller,  with  a  force  which  would  render 


CHAP.  XXL]  IN   FRANCE.  261 

common  refinance  perilous,  and  unavailing.  This 
ibreft,  in  the  courfe  of  the  year,  furnishes  considerable 
employ,  for  the  guillotine  of  Caen,  when  the  tribunal 
,of  juftice  is  feated.  The  appearance  of  our  guards  . 
was  terrific  enough  to  appal  fucti  valiant  fouls,  as  once 
.^animated  the  frames  of  Prince  Hal}  and  his  merr\ 
friend  NedPoitu.  They  wore  Roman  helmets,  from 
which  delcended,  to  the  bottom  of  their  backs,  an  im- 
menfe  tail,  of . thick  black  horfe  hair,  their  uniform 
was  light  green,  and  looked  rather  fhabby. 

We  paired,  tjiefpjeft  without  any  moleftation,  and 
flipped  at,the  to>vn  of  Evreux,  ^hichis  \ery:plea,fant, 
where  we . halted  for  about  fpur  .hours.  As  we .  were 
^afterwards  proceeding,  Lprepared  .myfelf  to  enjoy  a 
little  fleep,  and  as  I  reclined  fqr  this  purpofe  with  my 
hat  over  my  face,  in  a  corner  of  the  carriage,  I  over- 
heard one  of  my  fellow  travellers  obferve  to  the  other, 
"  the  Englifhrmui  is  fleeping,"  to  which  he  replied* 
"no,  he  is  not  fleeping,  he  is  only  thinking,  it  is  the 
"  character  of  his  nation." 

yhe  jFrench  cannot  bear  the  leaft  appearance  of 
thought  j  they  have  a  faying,  "  un  homme  qui  rit  ne 
i era  jamais  dangereux." 

The  next  morning  w(e  breakfafted  jl t  Lifieux,  an  an- 
cient town,  in  which  are  the  remains  of  a  fine  convent 
which  formerly  belonged  to  the  Order  of  the  Capu- 
chins. For  four  or  five  miles  before  we  approached 
the  town,  the  laughing  and  animated  faces  of  groups 
of  peafantry,  all  in  their  jubilee  dreiTe.s,  the  old  mount- 


262  THE  STRANGER  [CHAP.  XXI. 

ed  upon  afTes  and  the  young  walking  by  the  fides  of 
them,  hafteriing  to  the  town,  announced  to  us,  that  a 
fair,  and  merrymaking  was  to  be  held  there,  on  that 
&?.y.  Lifieux  was  quite  in  a  buftle.  About  fix 
o'clock  in  the  evening  of  the  fame  day,  we  arrived  at 
Caen,  the  capital  of  Lower  Normandy.  My  fare  to 
this  city  from  Paris,  amounted  to  thirty  livres,  in- 
cluding my  luggage.  I  had  not  completed  my  din- 
ner at  the  Hotel  de  la  Place,  before  an  Englifh  fervant 
entered  my  room,  to  inform  me,  that  his  miftrefs, 

Mrs.  P ,  who,  with  her  daughters,  and  another 

young  lady,  had  the  rooms  over  mine,  prefented  her 
compliments  to  me,  and  requefted  me  to  take  my 
coffee  with  them  that  evening.  I  rouft  confefs  I  was 
at  firft  a  little  fv.rprifed  at  the  meffage,  for  the  Englifh 
are  not  very  remarkable  for  politenefs  and  attenion  to 
one  another  in  a  foreign  country. 

After  I  had  finifhed  my  defert,  I  made  my  bow  to 
Mrs.  P — r->  and  her  family,  who  proved  to  be  very 
pleafant,  and  accomplifhed  people,  and  were  making 
the  tour  of  France  with  Englifh  fervants.  They  had 
been  in  Caen  near  three  weeks,  where  they  had  a  large 
acquaintance  of  the  firfl  refpectability.  This  unex- 
pected introduction  became  additionally  agreeable, up- 
on my  difcovering  at  the  MefTagerie,that  the  diligence 
for  Cherbourg  would  not  proceed,  till  three  days  from 
the  time  of  my  arrival.  The  next  morning  I  rambled 
with  my  new  friends  about  the  city,  which  is  large, 
and  handfome,  and  is  watered  by  the  river  Orne.     It 


CHAP.  XXL]  IN  FRANCE.  2G3 

is  much  celebrated  for  its  lace  trade  •,  on  that  day  I 

dined  with  Mrs.  P -,  and  a  French  party,  and  was 

regaled  with  an  Englifh  dinner,  cooked,  and  ferved 
up  by  her  own  fervants.  The  filth  of  the  French 
kitchen. is  too  well  known  to  make  it  necefiary  for  me 
to  fay  Bow  delicious  fuch  a  dinner  was.  The  French 
themfelves-admit  that  their  cooks  are  deftitute  of  clean- 
linefs. 

The  Convent  of  the  Benedictines,  which  is  con- 
verted into  the  palace  of  the  prefect,  is  a  noble  buil- 
ding. The  gardens  belonging  to  it  are  well  arranged. 
The  promenade  called  de  la  Cour  is  very  charming, 
from  which  the  city  is  {een  to  great  advantage.  The 
water  of  the  Orne  is  rather  naufeous,  jut  is  not  con- 
sidered unwholefome.  The  Palais  de  Juftice  is  a  fine 
modern  ftructure.  In  its  courts  of  law,  I  had  again 
an  opportunity  of  hearing  the  fcrenfic  elocution  of 
Normandy.  The  geftures,  and  vehemence  of  the 
orators  here,  as  at  Rouen,  appeared  to  me  to  be  tinc- 
tured with  the  extravagance  of  frenzy.  But  perhaps 
my  ears,  and  eyes  have  been  rendered  fomewhat  too 
faftidious  by  having  been  frequently  banquetted  with 
the  grace,  animation,  and  commanding  eloquence  of 
the  unrivalled  advocate  of  the  Britifh  bar  j  who,  when 
he  retires  from  the  laborious  duties  of  the  crowded, 
and  admiring  forum,  where  his  acute  fagacity  has  fo 
often  unfolded  the  dark  compact  involutions  of  human 
obliquity,  where  his  wit  and  fancy  have  covered  with 
the  choiceft  flowers,  the  dreary  barrennefs  of  tech- 


J*  THE7  STRANGER  [CHAP.    XXI. 

nfcal  pleading ;  will  leave  behind  him  that  lading  and 
honorable  refpect  and  remembrance,  which  faculties 
fo  extenfively  beneficial,  mull:  ever  excite  in  the  minds 
of  men  who  have  been  inftructed,  delighted,  and  ben- 
efited by  their  fplendid,  and  profperbus  difplay. 

In  this  city  was  pointed  out  to  me,  the  houfe  in 
wnich  the  celebrated  Charlotte  Corday  refided,  who, 
by  her  poniard,  delivered  France  of  the  monfter,  Mar- 
at, on  Sunday,  the  14th  of  July,  1793.  There  is 
iome  coincidence  in  the  crimes,  and  fate  of  Caligula 
and' Marat,  both  perifhed  by  the  avengers  of  their 
country,  whilft  in  the  act  of  approaching  their  baths. 
Pofterity  will  embalm,  with  its  grateful  remembrance, 
the  patriotic  heroifm of  this  great  and  diftinguifhed 
female,  and  in  her  own  firm,  and  eloquent  language, 
will  fay  of  her,  "  that  crime  begets  difgrace,  and^not 
« the  fcaffold." 

On  the  evening  after  my  arrival  at  Caen,  I  was  in- 
vited to  an  elegant  ball,  which  was  given  by  the  lady 
of  the  pay mafter  general  of  the  diftrict,  in  one  of  the 
government  houfes.  I  had  before  witneflVd  the 
dancing  of  the  higher  orders  of  people  in  Paris,  ^nd 
from  this  reafoh  was  not  furprifeJ  in  contemplat- 
ing the  exquifite  grace  which  was' here  difplayech 
The  party  confided  of  near  eighty  perTons.  Amongft 
them  were  the  judges  of  the  diftrict,  and  the  princi- 
pal officers  quartered  in  the  city,  and  its  neighbor- 
hood, the  latter  were  attired  in  fuperb  military  drefT- 
es.     Amongft  the  ladies  were  feveral  beautiful/ well 


eHA*.XXl.j  ttf   FRANCE-  265 

dreffed  young  women,  who  exhibited  their  perfons 
to  great  advantage.  The  grave,  and  elderly  part  of 
the  company  played  at  buillotte,  which  is  at  prefent 
the  favorite  French  game.  In  France  to  pleafe  and  to 
be  pleafed,  feem  to  be  the  pr eliding  principles  in  all 
their  meetings.  An  elegant  young  officer,  who  had 
diftinguifhed  himfelf  at  the  battle  of  Marengo,  obfer- 
ving  that  the  muiicians  appeared  to  be  a  little  fatigued 
by  the  contribution  of  their  exhilirating  fervices  to- 
wards the  feftivity  of  the  evening,  fupplied  their  room 
whilft  they  refrefhed  themfelves,  and  ft  ruck  up  an 
Englifh  country  dance  on  one  of  the  violins.  The 
party  attempted  to  dance  it,  but  to  fhow  how  arbitrary 
habit  is,  in  the  attempt,  all  thofe  powers  of  grace  which 
they  had  before  fo  beautifully  difplayed,  retired  as  if 
influenced  by  the  magic  of  fome  unpropitious  fpirit. 
Amongft  the  party,  was  a  little  girl,  about  nine  -years 
old,  who  was  dreifed  in  the  higheft  ftyle  of  fafhion 
and  looked  like  a  fafhionable  milliner's  doll.  This 
little  fpoiled  child  was  accuftomed  to  fpend  an  hour, 
at  her  toilette  every  morning,  and  to  be  tricked  out  in 
all  the  ephemeral  decoration  of  the  haut  ton.  This 
little  coquette  already  looked  out  for  admiration,  and 
its  foolifh  mother  expreiied  the  greateft  fatisfaction, 
when  any  one,  out  of  politenefs  to  her,  paid  attentions 
to  the  pert  premature  mirning.  Our  entertainment 
concluded  with  a  handfome  fupper,  and  we  parted,,, 
highly  delighted,  at  the  dawn  of  day.  Nothing  could. 
be  more  flattering,  than  the  attentions  which,  as  an 
Enclifliman,  I  received  from  every  one  prefent. 

y 


265  THE  STRA-NGEH  [CHAP. 

After  a  few  hours  repofe,  I  went  with  a  large  party 
to  the  church  of  Notre  Dame  ;  in  which  there  is  a 
rery  fine  altar  piece.     The  keeper  of  the  fachrifty, 
who  was  a  very  arch-looking  little  fellow,  in  fpite  of 
the  foleinnity  of  the  place  ia  which  we  were,  made  Us 
fmile  (even  as  a  young  lady  who  was  going  to  be  con- 
feiTed  for  the  firft  time  the  next  day,  loft  a  confider- 
able  proportion  of  her  gravity)  by  informing  us,  that 
■during  the  time  of  terror  he  had  run  off  with  the  Vir- 
gin Mary,  pointing  to  th«  image,  and  that  to  prevent 
the  detection  of  Robefpierrre's  agents,  he  had  conceal- 
ed her  in  his  bed  for  three  years.     Nothing  could  ex- 
ceed his  joy  in  having  faved  her  from  the  hatchet,  or 
the  flames,  from  which  impending  fate-,  fhe  was  re- 
ftored  to  her  former  fituation  in  this   church :  and 
was,  when  we  faw  her,  by  the  extravagance  of  her 
fprightly,  and  ardent    protector,  drelTed  in   a  white 
rnuflin  gowa,  fpotted  with  filver ;  a  little  bouquet  of 
artificial  -flowers  graced  her  bofom,  and  her  wig  was 
finely  curled,  and  powdered.     The  figure  in  her  arms 
which  was  intended  to  reprefent  the  Infant  Jefus,  was 
clrelTed  in  a  ftyle  equally  unsuitable  ;  his   hair  was  al- 
fo  curled,  and  powdered,  and  a  fmall  cocked  hat  pla- 
ced upon  his  head.     Our  delighted  guide,  whofe  eyes 
fparkled  with  felf-complacency,  afked  us  if  we  had 
ever  feen  a  prettier  Virgin  Mary,  or  one  drefled  more 
handfomely.  We  were  all  much  amufed  by  the  quaint- 
nefs  of  this  man's  conduft,  although  I  am  confident  he 
had  no  intention  of  exciting  unbecoming  fenfations 
for,  in  faying  this  image,  he  had  expofed&s  life. 


©HAP.  XXL]  IN  FRANCE.  g$t 

From  Notre  Dame,  we  went  to  the  Abbaye  aux 
Hommes,  built  by  "William  the  Conqueror.  It  is  a 
large  lofty  plain  pile  of  building.  The  fpires  are  well- 
proportioned,  and  very  high.  The  pillars  in  the 
choir  are,  in  my  humble  opinion,  too  maiTy.  Prepar- 
ations were  here  making  for  the  celebration  of  the 
great  feftival  called  the  Feaft  of  God.  "We  prefent- 
ed  to  one  of  the  priefts,  who,  in  the  fachrifty,  was 
adorning  the  cradle  of  our  Saviours'  image  with  flow- 
ers, fome  very  fine  mofs  rofes,  which  in  France  are 
very  rare,  which  he  received  with  great  politenefs. 
This  feftival  before  the  revolution  was  always  fuperbly 
celebrated.  It  was  then  renewed  for  the  firft  time 
fince  the  profcription  of  religion,  during  which,  all  the 
coftly  habits  of  the  priefts,  and  rich  verTels  ufed  in 
the  ceremonies  of  the  church,  have  been  ftolen,  fold 
or  melted  down.  Near  the  alter,  which  has  been 
fluttered  by  the  axe  of  the  revolution  is  the  vault  of 
the  Norman  conqueror. 

Upon  our  return  to  our  hotel,  we  faw  a  confiJer- 
ble  crowd  afFembled  near  the.  bridge  leading  to  de  la 
Cour.  Upon  inquiring  into  the  caufe  of  this  afTem- 
blage,  we  found  it  was  owing  to  a  curious  rencounter 
between  two  blind  beggars,  who,  in  total  darknefs, 
had  been  waging  an  uncertain  battle  for  near  fix  min- 
utes. It  appeared  that  one  of  them  had  for  feveral 
months  enjoyed  quiet  poiTerTion  of  the  bridge,  which 
happened  to  be  a  great  thoroughfare,  and  had  during 
that  time,  by  an  undifputed  difplay  of  his  calamity^ 


?68  THE   STRANGER         ,        [CHAP.   XXI. 

contrived  to  pick  up  a  comfortable  recompenfe  for  it  j 
that  within  a  few  days  preceding  this  novel  fracas, 
another  mendicant,  who  had  equal  claims  to  compafc- 
£on,  allured  by  the  repute  of  his  fuccefs,  had  defert- 
ed  a  lefs  frequented  part  of  the  city,  and  had  prefent- 
cd  himfelf  at  the  other  corner  of  the  fame  bridge, 
where  by  a  more  mafterly  felecTion  of  moving  phrafes, 
he  foon  not  only  divided,  but  monopolized  the  elee- 
mofyiiafy  revenues  cf  tliis  poft  of  vvretchednefs.  The 
original  pofieffor,  naturally  grew  jealous.  Even  beg- 
i  cf  can  bear  no  brother  near  the  throne."  In- 
flamed with  je^loufy,  he  filently  moved  towards  his 
rival,  by  the  found  of  whofe  voice,  which  was  then 
fending  forth  fome  of  its  mod  affecting,  and  purfe- 
drawing  (trains,  he  was  enabled  to  determine  wheth- 
er bis  arm  was  within  reach  of  the  head  of  his  com- 
petitor, which  circumftance,  having  with  due  nicety 
afcertained,  he  clenched  his  fift,  which  in  weight,  fize, 
and  nrmnefs,  was  not  much  furpalTed  by  the  hard, 
and  ponderous  paw  of  a  full  grown  tiger,  and  with  all 
the  force  of  that  propulfion,  which  a  formidable  fet  of 
mufcles  afforded,  he.  felled  his  rival  to  the  ground, 
and  not  knowing  that  he  wasfal  en,  difcharged  manyi 
other  blows,  which  only  ferved  to  difturb  the  tran- 
quillity of  the  air.  The  recumbent  hero,  whofe 
head  was  framed  for  enterprifes  of  this  nature,  foon* 
recovered  from  the  afiault,  and  after  many  unavailing, 
efforts  in  the  dark,  at  length  fucceeded  in  opening, 
one  of  the  veiTels  of  the  broad  nofe  of  his  brawny  af- 


(HUP.  XXL]  IN   FRANCE.  2&P 

failant,  whofe  blood,  enriched  by  good  living,  ftream- 
ed  out  mod  copioufly.  In  this  condition  we  faw  thefe 
orblefs  combatants,  who  were  fpeedily  feparated  from 
each  other.  Some  of  the  crowd  were  endeavoring  to 
form  a  treaty  of  pacification  between  them,  whether 
they  fucceeded  I  know  not,  for  we  were  obliged  to 
leave  the  bridge  of  battle,  before  thefe  important 
points  were  arranged,  to  join  a  pleafant  party  at  Mons. 

J *sj  an  opulent  banker  at  Caen,  to  whom  I  had 

letters  of  introduction  from  Mons.  R ,  the  banker 

of  Paris. 

After  fpending  the  fliort  time>  during  which  Iwas 
detained  at  Caen,  very  pleafantly,  I  refumed  my  feat  in 
iAie  diligence  for  Cherbourg,  in  which  I  found  a  very 
agreeable  woman,  her  two  daughters;  two  canary  birds 
a- cat,  and  her  kitten*  who  were  I  found,  to  be  my 
companions  all  the  way,  After  we  left  Caen,  the 
roads  became  very  bad.  Our  ponderous  machine, 
frequently  rolled  from  one  fide  to  the  other,  and  with 
many  alarming  crackings,  threatened  us-with  a  heavy, 
and  perilous  overthrow.  At  length  we  arrived  at 
Bayeuxy  where  we  dined,  at  the.houfe  of  a  friend  of 
my  fair  fellow  traveller,  to  which  fhe  invited  me  with 
a  tone  of  welcome,  and  good  wifhes  which  overpower- 
ed all  refrftance.'  We  fat  down  to  an  excellent  din- 
ner,-  at  which  wa3  produced  the  ufual  favorite  i Tench 
difhofeold  turbot,  and  raw  artichokea, ,  After  our- 
Fepafl,.a  fine  young  woman,  the  daughter  of  the  lady 
<a£ih£diaufe\.in  a  very  obliging,  but  rather  gr^7emsa*« 


2*0  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XXI. 

ner,  poured  out  a  tumbler  full  of  fome  delicious  potent 
liqueur,  which,  to  my  no  fmall  furprife,  {he  prefent- 
ed  me  with  ;  upon  my  only  tafting  it,  and  returning  it, 
fhe  appeared  to  be  equally  furprifed,  and  confufed. 
Her  mother,  obferving  our  mutual  embarrafment,  in- 
formed me,  that  in  France  it  was  underftood  that  the 
Englifh  were  troubled  with  the  ennui,  or  trifteffe  de 
cceur,  and  that  they  drank  large  draughts  of  wine  and 
fpirits  to  §xpel  the  gloomy  malady.  I  foftened  this 
opinion  of  our  common  character,  as  well  as  I.  could, 
for,  I  fear,  without  offering  confiderable  outrage  to 
truth,  I  could  not  wholly  have  denied  it. 

After  dinner,  we  walked  to  the  cathedral,,  which  is 
a  noble  gothic  pile,  and,  upon  our  return,  found  the 
diligence  in  waiting  for  us.  My  companions  were  at- 
tended tqithe  door  of  the  carriage,  by  their  hofpitable 
friends,  between  whom  ieveral  kifies  were  interchan- 
ged. I  took  an  opportunity,  juit  before  I  mounted 
die  ftep,  of  ftealing  one  of  thofe  tokens  of  regard  from 
the  fair  young  damfel  who  had  fo  courteoufly  offered- 
me  the  liqueur,  at  the  fame  time  telling  her,  that  in 
England,  a  kifs  was  always  confidered  as  tho  beft  rem- 
edy for  the  trifteffe  de  cceur. — Away  trotted  our  lit- 
tle Norman  fteeds  ;  and,  notwithstanding  they  had 
come  all  the  way  from  Caen,  they  foon  carried  us  o-* 
ver  the  hills  on  this  fide  of  Bayeux.  The  eye  com*, 
municated  delight  to  the  heart,  whilii  it  contemplated 
the  vaft  extent  of  corn  fields,  which  in  this  fertile  pro-. 
vincc  undulated  on  all  fides  of  us,  in  waves  of  yellow 


C#AP.  XXL]  IN- FRANCE.  271 

exuberance,  over  which,  embofomed  in  trees,  at  ihort 
diftances,  peeped  the  peaceful  and  picturefque  abode 
of  the  profperous  cottage  farmer.  The  profpecl:  af- 
forded an  impreffive  cofttraft  to  the  impolitic  agricul- 
tural fyftemi  which  lately  obtained  in  England,  by 
which  cottage  farms  are  consolidated  into  ample  do«- 
mains  of  monopoly,  and  a  baneful  preference  is  given 
in  favor  of  the  rearing  of  cattle,  to  the  vital  and  boun- 
tiful labors  of  the  plough.  A  celebrated  writer,  who 
well  knew  in  what  the  real  wealth  of  a  nation  confided, 
iias  obferved,  that  he  who  could  make  two  ears  of  corn 
growuponafpot  of  ground,  where  only  one  grew  be- 
fore, would  deferve  better  of  mankind  than  the  vvhole^ 
race  of  politicians.  The  high  roads  of  Normandy  are 
unnecefiarily.  broad  j  hence  confiderable  portions  of. 
land  remain  uncultivated.  A  fpacious  road,  like  every, 
thing  which  is  vaft,  excites  an  impreflion  of  grandeur ; 
but  in  this,  prolific  department,  the  facilities  of.  travel- 
ling, and  the  dignity  of  the  country,  might  be  con-, 
fulted  with,  lefs  waftcs  This  prodigality  is  perhaps  at-- 
tributabie  to  the  highways,  in  France  having  fhared; 
but  little  of  its  legiflative,  attention-  5  and  aecommoda-. 
tion  appears  to  have  been  fought  rather  by  a  lavifh  al- 
lotment of  fpace,  than  by  a  judicious'  formation,  and 
frequent  and  thorough  repair* . 

The  Inns  along  the  road  are  very  poor*  altho'over 
the  door  of  ahnoft  every  little  cottage  is  written,  in, 
large  characters,  "  Bon  Cidre  de  Victoire*"  There 
are  alfo  no  regular  poft-horfes  to  be^  met  with.     The 


S/-S  THE    STRANGER  [CHAP.  XXL 

Country,  on  all  fides  of  us,  was  very  mountainous  and 

luxuriant,  and  much  refTembledthe  fouthern  parts  of 

Devonshire.     About  feven  o'clock  in  the   evening-  of 

p 

the  fame  day,  we  arrived  at  St.  Lo,  which  is,  without 
exception,  the  cleaneft  and  m oft  charming,  romantic 
little  town,  I  faft-in  France.  It  is  fortified,  and  {lands 
upon  the  top  of  a  mountain,  at  whofe  bafe  is  expan- 
ded a  luxuriant  fcenery  of  woods  and  villages,  through 
which  the  riviere  deVilie  winds  in  beautiful  meanders. 
The  inhabitants  of  this  town  appeared  to  be  rich  and 
genteel.  In  the  evening  I  flipped  at  the  table  d'hote, 
where  there  were  feveral  pleafant  people.  At  this 
town  we  flept,  and  fet  off,  the  next  morning,  very- 
early,  for  Valogne,  where  we  dined  :  and  in  the  eve- 
ning, after  palling  a  confiderable  extent  of  rich  mead- 
ow land,  and  defcending  a  very  fteep  hill,  the  frefh- 
nefs  of  the  fea  air  announced  to  us  our  near  approach 
to  Cherbourg,  where,  at- the  hotel  d'Angleterre,  I- 
was  foon  afterwards  landed.  For  my  place  and  lug- 
gage to  this  town  I  paid  twenty-four  livres.  My  ex- 
penfes  -upon  the  road  were  very  reafonable.  Here  I 
had  the  good  fortune  to  find  a  packet  which  intended 
to  fail  to  England  in  two  days,  the  matter  of  which 
aiked  me  only  one  guinea  for  my  pafrage  in  the  cabin, 
provifions  included.  However,  thinking  that  the- 
kitchen  of  a  French  veffel,  might,  if  poilible,  be  more- 
uncleanly  than  the  kitchen  of  a  French  inn,  I  refol- 
ved  upon  providing  my  own  refreshments  for  the  lit- 
tle voyage, 


CHAP.  XXI.]  IN  FRANCE.  273 

Cherbourg  is  a  poor  and  dirty  town.  After  having, 
heard  fo  much  of  its  coftly  works  and  fortifications 
for  the  protection  of  its  harbor,  my  furprife  was  not 
little,  upon  finding  the  place  fo  miferable.  It  is  de- 
fended by  three  great  forts,  which  are  erected  upon 
rocks  in  the  fea.  The  centre  one  is  about  three 
miles  off  from  fhore,.and  is  garrifoned  by  1200  men. 
At  a  diftance,  this  fort  looks  like  a  vaft  floating  batte- 
ry. Upon  a  line  with  it,  but  divided  by  a  diftance 
fufficient  for  the  admifiion  of  lhipping,  commences 
the  celebrated  ftupendous  wajl,  .which  has  been  erec- 
ted fince  the  failure  of  the  cones.  It  is  juft  vifible  at 
low  water.  This  fiirprifing  work  is  fix  miles  in  length 
and  three  hundred  feet  in  breadth,  and  is  compofedi 
of  mafiy  {tones  and  mafonry,  which  have  been  funk 
for  that  purpofe,  and  which  are  now  cemented,  by 
fea  weed,  their  own  weight  and-  cohefion,  into  one 
immenfe  mafs  of  rock.  Upon  this  wall  a  chain  of 
forts  is  intended  to  be  erected,  as  foon  as  the  finances 
of  government  will  admit  of  it.  The  expenfes  which  ■ 
have  already  been  incurred,  in  conftrutting  this  won* 
derful  fabric,  have  it  is  faid,  exceeded  two  millions 
fterling.  Thefe  coftly  protective  barriers  can  only 
be  confidered  as  fo  many  monuments,. erected  by  the 
French  to  the  fuperior  genius  and  prowefs  of.  the 
Britifh  Navy. 

Whilft  I  was  waiting  for  the  packet's  failing,,  I  re- 
ceived great  civilities  from  Mons.  C ,  the  banker 

and  American  conful  at  Cherbourg,  to  whom  I  had 


2*74  THE   STRANGER  [CtfAP.  XXL. 

letters  from  Mons.  R .  I  rode,  the  fecond  ev- 
ening after  my  arrival,  to  his  country  houfe,  which 
was  about  nine  miles  from  the  town.  Our  road  lay 
over  a  prolific  and  mountainous  country.  From  a 
high  point  of  land,  as  we  panned  along,  we  faw  the 
iflands  of  Guernfey,  Jerfy,  and  Alderney,  which 
made  a  beautiful  appearance  upon  the  fea.  Upon 
our  return,  by  another  road,  I  was  much  pleafed  with 
a  groupe  of  little  cottages,  which  were  emboflbmed 
in  a  beautiful  wood,  through  which  there,  was  an  op- 
ening to  the  fea,  which  the  finking  fun  had  then  over- 
fpread  with  the  richeft  luftre. 

As  we  entered  this  fcene  of  ruftic  repofe,  the  ange- 
lus  bell  of  the  little  village  church,  rang  ;  and  a  fhort 
time  afterwards,  as  we  approached  it,  a  number  of 
villagers  came  out  from  the  porch,  with  their  mafs- 
books  in  their  hands,  their  countenances  beaming 
with  hr.ppinefs  and  illuminated  by  the  finking  fun, 
which  fhone  full  upon  them.  The  charms  of  this 
fimple  fcene  arretted  our  "progrefs  for  a  fhort  time. 
Under  fome  fpreading  limes,  upon  a  floping  lawn,  the 
cheerful  cottagers  clofed  the  evening  with  dancing  to 
the  founds  of  one  of  the  fweeteft  flagelets  I  ever  heard, 
which  was  alternately  played  by  feveral  performers, 
who  relieved  each  other.  In  France,  every  man  is  a 
mufician.  Goldfmith's  charming  picture  of  his  Au- 
burn, in  its  happier  times,  recurred  to  me  : — 


]  IN    FRANCE.  21$ 

*'  When  toil  remitting,  lends  its  turn  to  play, 

<«  And  all  the  village  train,  from  labor  free, 

"  Led  up  their  fports  beneath  the  ipreadiug  tree." 

The  crofs  roads  of  France  are    very  bad  ;  but  to 
ray  furprife,  although  we   never  could  have  had  a. 
worfe  fpecimen  of  them  than  what  this   excurfion 
prefented  to  us,  yet  the  Norman  hunter  upon  which 
I  was  mounted,  carried  me  over  the  deepeft  ruts,  and 
abrupt  hillocks,  without  fhewing  the  leaft  fymptom  of 
infirmity  which  fb  much  prevails  amongft  his  breth- 
ren of  the  Devonshire  breed.     The  Norman  horfes 
are  remarkable  for  lifting  their  feet  high,  and  the 
fafety  and  eafe  with  which  they  carry  their  riders. 
In  the  morning  of  the  day  in  which  the  packet  was 
to  fail,  a  favorable  breeze  fprung  up  ;  and  after  un- 
dergoing the  ufual  fearch  of  the  revenue  officers,  in 
the  execution   of  which  they  behaved  with   much 
civility,  I  embarked,  and  bade  adieu  to  continental 
ground.      The  vefTel  had  the  appearance  of  being 
freighted  with  hot  bread,  with  which  the  deck  was  ] 
covered  from  one  end  to  the  other.  This  immenfe  col- 
lection of  fmoking  loaves  was  intended  for  the  fupply 
of  fix  men,  and  one  woman,  during  a  paflage  which 
we  expected  to  accomplifh  in  thirty  hours,  or  lefs. 

The  faithful  afTociate  of  our  young  captain,  to  whom 

fhe  had  juft  been  married,   either  from  motives  of 

fondnefs  or  diftruft,  refolved  upon  fharing  with  him 

the  perils  of  the  ocean. 

The  fea-fufierings  of  this  conftant  creature,  and  the 


276  ,    THE  STRANGER'  [CHAP 

resignation  with  which  fhe  endured  them,  fufficiently 
manifefted  the  ftrength  of  her  affections  *,  for  me  was 
obliged  to  keep  below  all  the  time,  and  could  afford 
but  very  little  afiiftance  in  reducing  the  prodigious 
-depot  of  bread  which  we  had  on  board. 

Credulous  mariners  defcribe  a  fpeoies  of  the  fair  fex 
(I  believe  theonly  one)  who  appear  to  mueh  advantage 
upon  the  briny  wave  ;  but  the  nature  of  our  command- 
ers lady  not  happening  to  be  amphibious,  ihe  gave 
iuch  unequivocal  proofs  of  being  out  of  her  proper 
^element,  that  my  wifhes  for  fhore  increafed  upon  me 
«¥ery  minute. 

During  our  paffage,  I  could  not  help  contrafting  the 
habits  of  the  Engtifli  with  the  French  failors.  The 
Britifh  tar  thinks  his  allowance  of  fait  beef  fcarcely 
-digeftible  without  a  copious  libation  of  ardent  fpirits, 
whilft  the  gallic  mariner  is  fatisfied  with  a  little  mea- 
gre foup,  an  immoderate  fhare  of  bread,  and  a  bever- 
age of  water,  poor  cider,  or  fpiritlefs  wine. 

At  length,  after  a  paffage  of  a  day  and  a  night,  in 
Which  we  experienced  the  viciffitudes  of  aftiff  breeze, 
and  a  dead  calm,  we  beheld, 


■"  That  pale,  that  white -fae'd  fliore, 


M  Whofe  foot  fpurns  back  the  ocean's  roaring  tidts, 
"  And  coops  from  other  lands  her  iflanderj3 
""That  water- wa-iled  bulwark,  ftili  fecure 
"  And  confident  from  foreign  purpofes/' 

After  paffing  another  tedious  night  on  board,  ow- 
■•%«  tq  our  being  becalmed  within  the  Needles,  J  fteo- 


CHAP.  XXL]  IN    FRANCE.  277 

ped  upon  the  fame  landing  (lone  from  which  I  firft 
embarkecj  for  a  country,  where,  in  the  centre  of  pros- 
criptions, inftability  and  defolation,  thofe  arts  which 
are  faid  to  flourifh  only  in  the  regions  of  repofe,  have 
by  their  vigor  and  unrivalled  bloom,  excited  the  won- 
der and  admiration  of  furrounding  nations  ;  where 
Peace,  by  her  fudden  and  cherifhed  re-appearance,  is 
calling  forth  all  the  virtues  from  their  hiding  places, 
to  aid  in  effacing  the  corroding  ilains  of  a  barbarous 
revolution,  and. in  reftoring  the  moral  and  focial  char- 
acter to  its  priftirte  polifh,  rank  and  estimation. 


Z 


273 


THE   STRANGER 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


THE  fa&  feems  at  firft  lingular.  Two  of  the  great- 
ell  nations  under  Heaven,  whofe  fhores  almoft  touch, 
and,  if  ancient  tales  be  true,  were  once  unfevered,  call 
the  natives  of  each  other  foreigners. 

Jealoufy,  competition,  and  confequent  warfare, 
havv,  for  ages,  produced  an  artificial  diftance  and  fep- 
aration,  much  wider,  and  more  impaffcble,  than  na- 
ture ever  intended,  by  the  divifion  which  flie  has 
framed  ;  hence,  whilft  the  unafiifted  eye  of  the  ifl- 
ander  can,  from  his  own  fhore,  with  «  unwet  feet," 
behold  the  natural  barrier  of  his  continental  neighbor, 
he  knows  but  littk  more  of  his  real  character  and 
habits,  than  of  thofe  beings,  who  are  more  diftant- 
ly  removed  from  him,  by  many  degrees  of  the  great 
circle. 

The  events  which  have  happened  in  France  for  the 
laft  eleven  years,  have  rendered  this  feparation  more 
fevere,  and  during  that  long  and  gloomy  interval,  have 
wholly  changed  the  national  character.  Thofe  who 
once  occupied  the  higher  clafs  in  the  afcending  fcale 
of  fociety,  and  who  have  furvived  the  revolution  with- 


IN   FRANCE.  279 

out  leaving  their  country,  are  no  longer  able  to  dif- 
play  the  tafte  and  munificence  which  once  diftinguifh- 
ed  them.  In  the  capital,  thofe  who  formerly  were  ac- 
cuflomed  to  have  their  court-yards  nightly  filled  with 
carriages,  and  their  ftairccifes  lined  with  lacqueys,  are 
now  fcarcely  able  to  occupy  one  third  of  their  noble 
abodes.  They  cannot  even  enjoy  the  common  ob- 
fervances  of  friendship,  and  hofpitality,  without  pau- 
sing, and  reporting  to  calculation.  A  new  race  of 
beings  called  the  "  nouveaux  enriches,"  whofe  fervices 
have  been  chiefly  auxiliary  to  the  war,  at  prefent  ab- 
forb  the  vifible  wealth  of  the  nation.  Amongft  them 
are  many  refpectable  perlons.  The  lower  orders  cf 
the  people  have  been  taught,  by  reftlefs  vifionaries,  to 
confider  the  destinations  of  Providence,  which  had 
before,  by  an  imperceptible  gradation  of  focial  color- 
ing, united  the  ruffet  brown  to  the  magisterial  purple, 
as  ufurpations  over  thofe  natural  rights  which  have 
been  imprefTed  without  illustration,  and  magnified  by 
a  mifchievous  myftery.  In  the  fierce  purfuit  of  thefe 
imaginary  immunities,  which  they  had  been  taught 
to  believe  had  been  long  withheld,  they  abruptly  re- 
nounced all  deference  and  decorum,  as  perilous  indi- 
cations of  the  fallacy  of  their  undefinable  pretentions 
and  were  not  a  little  encouraged  by  the  difaftrous  de- 
fertion  of  their  Superiors,  who  fled  at  the  firft  alarm. 
In  Short,  the  revolution  hasj  in  general,  made  the 
higher  orders  poor,  and  difpirited,  and  the  lower,  bar- 
barous, and  infolent,  whilit  a  third  clafs  has  fprung  up> 


2 SO  THE  STRANGER 

with  the  filence  and  fuddenefs  of  an  exhalation,  high- 
er than  both,  without  participating  in  the  original 
character  of  either,  in  which  the  principles  of  com- 
putation, and  the  vanity  of  wealth,  are  at  awkward  va- 
riance. 

.Until  lately,  the  ancient  French  and  the  modern 
French  were  antipodes,  but  they  are  now  converging, 
under  a  government,  which,  in  point  of  fecurity,  and. 
even  of  mildnefs,  has  no  refemblance,  fince  the  firjtt 
departure  from  the  ancient  eftabli  foments.  The 
French,  like  the  libertine  fon,  after  having  plunged 
in  riot  and  excefs,  fubdued  by  wretchednefs,  are  re- 
turning to  order  and  civilization.  Unhappy  people, 
their  tears  have  almoft  warned  away  their  offences— 
they  have  fufTered  to  their  heart's  core,  Who  will 
not  pity  them  to  fee  their  chancre,  and  hear  their  tales 
€>f  mifery  ?  Yet,  ftrange  to  relate,  in  the  mid  ft  of 
their  ughs  and  fuSferings,  they  recount,  with  enthufi-  i 
aim,  the  exploits  of  thofe  very  men,  whpfe  heroic  am- 
bition has  trampled  upon  their  belt  hopes,  and  proud-, 
eft  profperity.  Dazzled  by  the  brilliancy  of  the 
ipreading  flame,  they  forget  that  their  own  abode  is 
involved  in  its  defoiation,  and  augments  the  gloomy 
grandeur  of  the  fcene.  To  this  caine  may,  perhaps, 
be  traced  that  lingular  union  of  grief  and  gaiety,  which 
affords  rather  an  impreffive  contrail  to  the  more  fol- 
emn  conliftency  pf  Englilh  fadnefs.  The  terrible  ex- 
periment  which  they  have  tried,  has,  throughout,  pre-_ 
fented  a  ferocious  conteft,  for  power,  which  has  only 


IN  FRANCE.  '2S1 

ierved  to  deteriorate  their  condition,  fap  their  vigor, 
and  render  them  too  feeble  either  to  continue  the  con- 
teft,  or  to  reach  the  frontier  of  their  former  character. 
In  this  condition  they  have  been  found  by  a  man  who, 
with  the  precedent  of  hiftory  in  one  hand,  and  the 
fabre  in  the  other,  has,  unftained  with  the  crimes  of 
Cromwell,  poffefFed  himfelf  of  the  fovereignity  *,  and, 
like  Auguftus,  without  .the  propenfities  which  fhaded 
his  early  life,  preferved  the  name  of  a  republic,  whilft 
he  well  knows  that  a  decifive  and  irrefiftible  author- 
ity cah  alone  re-unite  a  people  fb  vaft  and  diftracted  '7 
who, in  the  purfuit  of  a  fatal  phantom,  have  been  inur- 
ed to  change,  and  long  alienated  from  fubordination* 
I  would  not  wifh  fuch  a  government  to  be  perpetual, 
but  if  it  be  conducted  with  wifdom  and  juftice,  I  will 
not  hefkateto  declare,  that  I  think  it  will  ultimately 
prove  as  favorable  to  the  happinefs,  as  it  has  been  pro- 
pitious to  the  glory  of  the  French.  A  government 
which  breathes  a  martial  fpirit  under  a  thin  appear- 
ance of  civil  polity,  prefents  but  a  barren  fubject  to  the. 
eonfideration  of  the  inquirer.  When  the  fabre  is 
changed  into  the  fceptre,  the  fcience  of  legiflation  is 
fhort,  fimple  and  decifive.  Its  energies  are  neither 
entangled  in  abftracl:  diftin&ions^  nor  much  impeded 
by  the  accuftomed  delays  of  deliberation. 

From,  the  magnitude  of  the  prefent  ruling  eflab- 
limment  in  France,  and  the  judicious  diftribution  of 
its  powers,  and  confidence,  the  physical  ftrength  sznx 

fcarcely  be  faid  to  refide  in  the  governeth- 
Z  %. 


232  THE  STRANGER 

A  great  portion  of  the  population  participates  in  the 
character  of  the  government.  The  bayonet  is  perpet- 
ually flaming  before  the  eye.  The  remark  may  ap- 
pear a  little  ludicrous,  but  in  the  capital  almoft  every* 
man  who  is  net  nearfightedis  a  foldier,  and  every  fol- 
dier  of  the  republic  confid^rs  himfelf  as  a  fubordi- 
nate  minifter  of  ftate.  In  fhort  the  whole  political 
fabric  is  a  refined  fyftem  of  knight's  fervice.  Seven 
centuries  are  rolled  back,  and  from  the  gloom  of  time 
behold  the  crefted  fpirit  of  the  Norman  hero  advance, 
«  with  beaver  up,"  and  nod  his  fable  plumes,  in  grim 
approval  of  the  novel,  gay,  and  gaudy  feodality. 

If  fuch  an  expectation  may  be  entertained,  that  time 
will  replace  the  ancient  family  on  the  throne,  I  am  far 
from  believing  that  it  can  offer  much  confolation  to 
the  iliuftrious  wanderer,  who  as  yet,  has  only  tafted  of 
the  name  of  fovereignity.  If  the  old  royalty  is  ever 
reftored,  it  is  my  opinion,  and  I  offer  it  with  becoming 
deference,  that  from  perfonal  hatred  to  the  prefent 
titular  monarch,  and  the  dread  of  retaliation  by  a  lin- 
eal revival  of  monarchy,  the  crown  will  be  placed  upon 
the  brows  of  one  of  the  collateral  branches  of  the  ex- 
patriated family.  The  prince  de  Conde  is  the  only 
member  of  that  auguft  houfe,  of  whom  the  French 
fpeak  with  efteem  and  approbation. 

The  treafury  of  the  French  is,  as  may  be  expected, 
mot  overflowiug,  but  its  refources  muft  fpeedily  be- 
come ample.  The  neceffities  of  the  ftate,  or  rather 
the  peculations  of  its  former  factious  leaders,  addreff- 


IN   FRANCE.  $85 

ed  thernfelves  immediately  to  the  purfes  of  the  people, 
by  a  fummary  procefs  completely  predatory.  Cir- 
cuitous exaction  has  been,  till  lately,  long  difcarded. 
'the  prefent  rulers  have  not  yet  had  fufheient  time  to 
digeft,  and  perfect  a  financial  fyftem,  by  which  the 
eftablifhments  of  the  country  may  be  fup'ported  by  in- 
direct, and  unoffending  taxation.  Wifdom  and  gen- 
ius muft  long,  and  ardently  labor,  before  the  ruins, 
and  rubbifh  of  the  revolution  can  be  removed.  Every 
effort  hitherto  made  to  raife  the  deciduous  credit  of 
the  republic  has  been  mafterly,  and  forcibly  befpeaks 
the  public  hope,  and  confidence  in  favor  of  every  fu- 
ture meafure. 

The  armies  cf  the  republic  are  immenfe  ;  they  have 
hitherto  been  paid,  and  maintained  by  the  countries 
which  they  have  fubdued  \  their  exigencies,  imlefs 
they  are  employed,  will  in  future  form  an  embarrafxing 
kibjectof  coniideration  in  the  approaching  fyffefn  of 
finance.  This  mighty  body  of  men,  who  are  very 
moderately  paid,  are  united  by  the  remembrance  of 
their  glory,  and  the  proud  coniideration  that  they  con- 
stitute a  powerful  part  of  the  goverement  -y  an  impref- 
fion  which  every  French  foldier  cheri'fhes.  They  al- 
fo  derive  fome  pride,  even  from  their  difcipline  :  a 
military  delinquent  is  not  fubject  to  ignoble  punifh- 
ment  •,  if  he  offend,  he  fulfers  as  a  foldier.  Imprifon- 
*ment,  or  death,  alone  difplaces  him  from  the  ranks, 
He  is  not  cut  down  fainting,  and  covered  with  the 
ignominious  wounds  of  the  diffecting  fcourge,  and 
fent  to  languifh  in  reekingwards  of  hofpitals, 


2&4t  THE    STRANGER 

In  reviewing  the  prefent  condition  of  France,  the 
liberal  mind  will  contemplate  many  events  with  pleas- 
ure, and  will  fufpend  its  final  judgment,  until  wif- 
dom,  and  genius  fhall  repofe  from  their  labors,  and 
fhall  proclaim  to  the  people,  "  behold  the  work  is 
done." 

It  has  been  obferved,.  that  in  reviewing  the  late  warr 
two  of  the  precepts  of  the  celebrated  author  of  "  The 
Prince,"  will  hereafter  be  enmrinedin  the  judgments 
of  politicians,  and  will  be  as  clofely  adhered  to,  as  they 
have  been  boldly  difregarded  by  that  great  man,  who, 
till  lately,  has  long  prefided  over  the  Britifh  councils. 
— Machiavel  has  afTerted,  that  no  country  ought  to 
declare  war  with  a  nation  which,  at  the  time,  is  in  a 
flate  of  internal  commotion  'y  and  that,  in  the  profe- 
cution  oi  a  war,  the  refugees  of  a  belligerent  power 
ought  not  to  be  confidentially  trufted  by  the  oppofite 
nation  which  receives  them-  Upon  violating  the  for- 
mer, thofe  heterogeneous  parties,  which,  if  left  to 
themfelves,  will  always  embarrafs  the  operations  of 
their  government,  become  united  by  a  common  caufe ; 
and  by  offending  againft  the  latter  claufe  of  this  cau- 
tionary code,  a  perilous  confidence  is  placed  in  the 
triumph  of  gratitude,  and  private  pique,  over  that 
great  love  which  nature  plants  and  warmly  cherifhes 
in  the  bread  of  every  man,  for  his  country.  In  ex- 
tenuation of  a  departure  from  thefe  political  maxims 
it  may  be  urged,  that  the  French  excited  the  war,  and 
that  in    the  purfurt  ef  it,  they  difplayed  a  compound 


IN    FRANCE.  2  85 

fpirit,  which  Machiavel  might  well  think  problemat- 
ical, for  whilft  that  country  never  averted  its  eye  from 
the  common  enemy,  it  never  ceafed  to  groan  under 
the  inflictions  of  unremitting  factions.  Rather  lefs 
can  be  faid  in  palliation  of  the"  fatal  confidence,  which 
was  placed  by  the  Englifh  government  in  fome  of  the 
French  emigrants.  I  have  mentioned  thefe  unhappy 
people  in  the  aggregate,  witty  the  reflect  which  I  think 
they  deferve.  To  be  protected,  and  net  to  betray, 
was  all  that  could  in  fairnefs,  and  with  fafety  be  expect- 
ed from  them ;  it  was  hazarding  too  much  to  put 
fwords  in  their  hands,  and  fend  them  to  their  own 
fhores  to  plunge  them  in  the  breaft  of  their  own  coun- 
trymen :  in  fuch  an  enterprife 

■  '  ■■■"  The  native  hat  of  refoi&tito*) 


*'  Is  ficklicd  o'er  WWfc  trie  pale  Cift  of  thr  tight." 

The  brave  have  not  frequently  wept  f>ver  fuch  a 
victim  as  Sombrieul. 

Whether  the  experiment  of  repelling  thofe  ma- 
chinations which  warred  againft  all  eitabliihed  order, 
and  all  fandtioned  ufage,  by  a  novel,  and  unnatural  op- 
pofition,  is  attributable  to  any  other  caufe,  than  that  of 
a  misjudging  principle,  muft  be  decided  by  Him,  whofe 
mighty  hand  fufpended  the  balance  of  the  battle,  and 
whofe  eye  can,  at  a  glance,  pierce  through  the  laby- 
rinth of  human  obliquity,  however  compact,  fhaded, 
or  concealed.  If  the  late  minifter  is  chargeable  with 
ar  prolongation  of  the  war,,  if  he  is  refponfibie  for  hav> 


286  THE   STRANGER 

ing  mifplaced  his  confidence,  and  if  brave  men  have 
perifhed  by  the  fatal  deluflon,  he  will  find  fome,  if 
not  ample  confolation,  in  reflecting,  that  by  his  -vigi- 
lance, and  vigor,  he  has  faved  his  country  from  the 
miferies  of  a  revolutionary  frenzy,  which  has  rendered 
even  our  enemies,  the  objects  of  our  fympathy,  and 
companion. 

Such  is  the  narrownefs  of  our  nature,  that  we  know 
not  hew  adequately  to  appreciate  our  prefervation  from 
an  intercept  id  evil  :  it  is  indiftinctly  feen,  like  a  diftant 
object:.  The  calamity  muft  touch  before  its  powers 
and  magnitude  can  be  eftimated.  The  flames  of  the 
neighboring  pile,  muft  ftop  at  our  very  doors,  before 
our  gratitude  becomes  animated  with  its  higheft  ener- 
gies. If  Providence  were  to  unfold  to  us  all  the  hor- 
rors which  we  have  efeaped  ;  if  all  the  blood  which 
would  have  followed  the  aflaflin's  dagger,  were  to  roll 
in  reeking  ftreams  before  us  j  if  the  full  difplay  of 
irreligion,  flight,  mafTacre,  confiscation,  imprifonment 
and  famine,  which  would  have  graced  a  revolutionary 
triumph  in  thefe  realms,  were  to  be  unbarred  to  our 
view,  how  fhould  we  recoil  from  the  ghaftly  fpectacle  \ 
with  fwhat  emotions  of  admiration  and  efleem  fhould 
we  bend  before  the  man,  whofe  illumined  mind  and 
dignified  refolution  protected  us  from  fuch  fell  perdi- 
tion, and  confined  the  ravages  of  the  "  bellowing 
ftorm"  within  its  own  barrier. 

The  dazzling  and  perilous  claims  of  the  Rights  of 
Man  in  the  abftraa,  have  had  a  long  and  ample  di£ 
cufiion  before  the  fanguinary  tribunals  of  another 


5     IN   FRANCE.  '        287 

country  ;  and  the  loud  decree  of  an  indignant  and  in- 
fulted  world  has  pronounced  their  eternal  doom. 
Other  contefts  may  arife  ;  but  the  powers  of  a  pro- 
phet are  not  neceffary  to  afiert  that  fuch  rights  will 
form  no  part  of  their  provocation. 

In  France,  I  was  repeatedly  afked  my  opinion  of 
the  probable  ftability  of  the  peace.  The  queftion 
was  always  addrefled  in  this  rather  curious  fhape  ? 
«  Thank  God,  we  have  peace  !  Will  your  country 
«  let  us  enjoy  it  ?" — My  anfwer  was,  «  You  may 
"  be  affured  of  it ;  for  it  will  not  ceafe  to  be  pre- 
"  pared  for  war."  ^ 

Alas  !  the  reftlefs  fpirit  of  ambition,  feldom  long 
delights  in  repofe.  The  peaceful  virtues,  under 
whofe  influence  nations  flourilh  and  mankind  rejoice, 
pofTefs  no  lading  captivations  for  the  Hero.  The 
draught  of  cbnqueft  maddens  his  brain^  and  excites 
an  infatiable  thirft  for  frefh  achievments  —He 

"  Looks  into  the  clouds,  fcornin£  the  bafc  degrees 
u  By  which  he  did  afcend" 

May  that  extraordinary  Being  in  whofe  hands  the 
fate  of  millions  is  deposited  reverfe  the  gloomy  pic- 
ture, and  reftore  to  a  country  long  wafted  by  revolu- 
tions, and  warfare,  and  languifhing  in  the  roidft 
of  the  monuments  of  her  glory,  the  benign  blef- 
fings  of  enduring  tranquillity.  But  if  this  hope 
prove  fruitlefs,  if  all  the  countries  of  continent- 
al Europe  are  deftined  to  be  comprefled  into 
one  empire,  if  their  devoted  princes  are  doomed  to 


.•* 


.  288  THE    STRANGER    IN    FRANCE. 

adorn  the  triumphs  of  the  chief  of  that  mighty  re- 
public, which  now  towers  above  the  furrounding  na- 
tions of  the  earth,  like  the  pyramid  of  the  defert, 
: i  what  have  we  to  fear  even  though  the  ocean  which 
divides  us  fhould  become  the  folder's  element  ? 

When  an  enlighted  Frenchman  is  afked  what  he 
thinks  of  his  government,  his  anfwer  is,  «  We  want 
repofe."  For  this  alone,  a  ftranger  to  the  recent  oc- 
currences of  the  world  would  think  he  had  toiled, 
juft  as  valetudinarians  take  exercife  for  the  purpofe  of 
fecuring  fleep.  Even  thofe  who  have  profitted  of  el- 
even years  of  defolation  are  ready  to  acknowledge  that 
war  is  not  paftime,  and  that  a  familiarity  with  its  hor- 
rors does  not  lefTen  them.  The  foldier,  drooping 
under  the  weight  of  booty,  pants  for  the  refrefhing 
fhadesof  his  native  village,  and  for  the  hour  which 
is  to  reftore  him  to  his  alienated  alienated  family. 

I  am  Satisfied,  that  both  in  France  and  England, 
one  defire  pervades  all  clafTes  of  people,  that  two 
nations  fo  brave,  and  fo  worthy  of  reciprocal  efteem, 
may  at  iaft  grow  wife  and  virtuous  enough  to  abftain. 
from  thofe  ebullitions  of  furious  hoftility  which  have 
flained  fo  many  centuries  with  blood. 
/  Peace  is  the  gem  with  which  Europe  has  embellish- 
ed her  fair  but  palpitating  bofom  ;  and  may  difap- 
poictment  and  difhonor  be  the  lot  of  that  ambitious 
and  impolitic  being  wlio  endeavors  or  who  wifhes  to 
pluck  it  from  her ! 

FINIS. 


• 


■ 


'$**' 


„ 


>■■ 


* 


